82-T/A [Work]

Hey guys, full disclosure, I'm a Fiero owner. I've owned a couple of 3rd gens, and will again in the future, but I wanted to ask here so I don't face the ire of my Fiero compadres (they're a bit less forgiving).

I have a 1987 Pontiac Fiero SE/V6 that is essentially identical to the engine found in the 1985-1991 Pontiac Firebird and Chevrolet Camaro. The only difference is the bolt-pattern for the starter, otherwise... it's essentially the identical EFI system (maybe the Fiero has 5hp more due to shorter exhaust, etc.). Even the most underused and preserved Fiero/ThirdGen has a wiring harness that's 30+ years old now. I'm going to be bringing my Fiero out of storage in the coming month or two, and want to finish restoring it. I've rebuilt my 2.8 into a 3.2 with 3.1 crank and rods, .040 overbore pistons, and a few other upgrades, including 17lb injectors. With everything that I've done, the factory ECM just doesn't provide the fuel/air that it should optimally. I absolutely do not feel like reprogramming this old technology (which I think has a 180 baud communication rate), and really just want new wiring, and a newer system.


So here's what I found, I present to you... the FAST EZ-EFI 2.0 Multi-Port Retrofit "Self Tuning" Engine Control System "KIT"

https://www.fuelairspark.com/catalog...category/1104/

Some high points:
- Comes with an entirely new engine wiring harness, specifically designed with GM-compatible connectors, for existing GM sensors
- Works with and/or replaces the IAC, TPS, MAP. Uses a newer heated O2 sensor
- Works with Return-Style fuel injection systems that use a vacuum regulator (like what we all have)
- Self-learning to optimize fuel, air, and spark.
- Lots of other stuff.


The system sounds FANTASTIC... AMAZING even, but here in lies the problem I've found... TIMING. The system was really "originally" developed to work with a V8, but it is entirely compatible with a V6, and you configure this when you originally set it up. You would simply just not use the additional injector plugs, etc.

About 2-3 years ago, I started looking into it, and was continuously told no... get a megasquirt or reprogram my old ECM. NO!

So I started looking at it again recently, and I've discovered that they've added a lot of additional programming to support timing advance. There are two ways they support this:

- FAST's Dual-Sync Distributors
- FAST's Crank Triggers

So here in lies my question, HOW can I adapt this, or WHICH would I use?

They do not make a distributor for V6s, but the one for the V8s look almost identical to mine (it's for a Small Block Chevy). How likely is it that I can take the ignition control module from this V8 distributor, and adapt it to my V6's distributor?




The other option is a crank trigger. They offer this for the small block Chevy:




So the question I have is... can this be used on our V6/60s? And my second question... if not, does the 3.4 V6/60 in the 93-95 Camaro / Firebird use a crank trigger, and if so, can we simply adapt that one? It looks to me like the only thing it's looking for is a pulse... ON / OFF.


Thoughts?

At this point, I could care less about the cost. I just want something insanely reliable, modern, without 35-year old wiring and older technology. I want to be able to get into my 5-Speed Fiero, beat the **** out of it, and put it away wet.


Thank you!


EDIT: It also has both analog and digital outputs for the tach, speedometer, shift light, and all the other things...

82-T/A [Work]

Also, here is the pin-out for our ignition control module... the two-pronged wire of course goes to the coil, while pins C and D appear to be the ones needed that I THINK... I THINK would communicate with the two pins from the FAST 2.0 system. Thoughts???

(Note, the By-Pass is for disabling timing advance so you can set base timing)

jpearcy1

iTrader: (1)

I can't 100% speak from experience but a possible option could be the '96+ vortec 4.3L. Factory cam and crank sensor, just may have to get creative with it. I did something similar on my L98 with Holley. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/dfi-...rsion-l98.html

SbFormula

Pain in the B... to reprogram with hours of datalogging, analyzing, reprogramming and rinse and repeat.

82-T/A [Work]

Thanks for the responses guys. Well, I went for it. I said F'it... and I clicked the buy button. I then immediately went onto my credit card site, and pre-paid my balance even though it was pending, that way there was no chance I was going to second guess this dumb-*** purchase of mine, hahah...

I want to share a quick link from my original post back in 2014 when I first started considering it: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HT...288-2.html#p65
Some background, I put my Fiero in storage back in 2011 when I took a job that required me to move every 4 years, and I'm only just now looking to take it out of storage (yes... storage fees for two cars for 12 years, don't even ask...)

I'm going to make this work.

I ended up going with the EZ-EFI 2.0. While I think the EZ-EFI (original) would have worked also, the 2.0 version really seemed to emphasize the fact that it included spark / timing control, so I'm going to go that route. From my research, the wiring harness basically uses all the GM-style connectors, even on the EFI 2.0.

So to reiterate, there were two things I was looking to get out of this:
1 - Modern self-tuning, with improved across the RPM efficiency / behavior. Goal was not really to gain horsepower, but just optimize the way the engine performs at all RPMs by ensuring that I have much better fuel / air and spark tuning.
2 - Replace the ~36 year old wiring, with simple, less "fussy" wiring from the FAST system. Every connector will be new, the harness will be better shielded, and I can carefully remove and replace the old harness which has dozens of fusible links.


Everything should literally be plug and play, the only thing I'll need to figure out now is the connectors. I'm told I should have no problem using my factory distributor, I just need to figure out which wire goes where.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Forget about the EZ-EFI. I had one for a while, though mine had the throttle body, but the ECUs are the same.

Never worked worked correctly while I had it. It was actually loaned to me to try and get it working right. It never went into learning the two years it was on my car, even after meeting all of the parameters that were needed to go into learning. I also had to fudge the displacement numbers to get the fueling close enough that I could drive the car without washing down the cylinders. It was inconsistent between throttle stabs too. I'm not the only one that has had this or similar experiences as well. The latest firmware is from 2010. Every other currently sold system has firmware updates within the last few months...

The EZ-EFI has ZERO ability to manually tune the system too, which for the price is a HUGE shortcoming, IMO, even if you didn't want to manually tune the system, having the ability is ALWAYS a good idea. The Holley Sniper can be used without manual tuning, but also offers the ability to manually tune as well, for less money comparing throttle body systems between FAST and Holley Sniper.

My recommendation is go Megasquirt, because it works well, and is my go to ECU for EFI retrofits for most of my clients.

I wouldn't try to buy a system based on "auto tuning" or "self tuning", because it's very basic changes to the fuel (VE) table only based on AFR/Lambda numbers that may or may not be correct for your engine, so you will still need to make manual adjustments to the AFR/Lambda target table to get your fueling correct anyway...

Then you seem to be concerned with ECU controlled timing, ABSOLUTELY ZERO ECUs will self tune the spark control side of things, it' just not possible with todays technology, or at least not at the price points for the aftermarket ECUS available today. So again, manual tuning is needed there. The EZ-EFI has a very rudimentary 3 point timing curve for "timing control".

I've also found that the "self tuning" is only good to a point, but usually still requires manual tuning to get everything right. The best system for closed loop and "self tuning" that I have used has been Holley systems, but again, manual tuning makes the end result so much better. You would need to look at the Holley Terminator for MPFI use.

You don't need a dual sync or other aftermarket distributor, if you end up going with the FAST or other EFI system. The GM distributor is a VR type sensor, that can be directly interfaced with most aftermarket ECUs, and then use the coil output to drive a coil or coil driver (depending on the system). The V8 distributor is not all that close to the V6 distributor anyway, besides the fact that the reluctor wheels would need to be swapped, or custom made to work with your V6.

Again, I recommend a Megasquirt because it IS the best option for what you want to do on a budget, next to this would be whatever system a local tuner will recommend (besides the EZ-EFI). You're really limiting yourself with the EZ-EFI IMO.

The 3.4 crank trigger pattern is what is called "GM7X", it has 6 equally spaced notches, with one 10 degrees after TDC #4 (IIRC that's the location of the extra notch). No, this won't work with a system like the EZ-EFI, because of two reasons, it's an irregular pattern, because of the extra notch, and even without the extra notch, it has twice as many notches as the system can use for a V6. A 6 cylinder would need 3 equally spaced notches for a proper 6 cylinder signal at crank speed. The slightly bigger issue here is that the 2.8 block does not have provisions for the crank sensor in the block. If you're wondering about the 24x trigger wheel behind the harmonic balancer on the 3.4, this also won't work, even though it's a regular pattern, it has far too many notches.

82-T/A [Work]

I actually ended up getting the EZ-EFI 2.0, which is a little bit more advanced, and has some additional functionality, including timing / spark advance control.


I definitely appreciate these comments, I mean it. I spent the past two days researching as much as I could about these systems. I went over and over and over trying to figure out what would be the best option. I ended up actually purchasing the EZ-EFI 2.0, which is considerably different when compared to the EZ-EFI 1.0. The biggest difference being spark control and some additional improvements. What I found was that people who had poorly running engines, still had poorly running engines after installing the system. The system requires good vacuum, and no interference. I found as many positive reviews as I saw negative reviews... which brings me to my next point...


I hope this doesn't sound braggy, but money is no object to me in this project. This car was the car I drove in high school, and I will dump buckets of money to get it back on the road. This website is pretty old now... I wrote it in Notepad and last updated it in 2011, basically just before I put it into storage when I took a job that for the next decade, required me to move every 3 years: https://www.pontiacperformance.net/car87FieroSE.html

You'll see (by clicking the dash light links) that I've been restoring the car, and I'm about maybe 2/3rds of the way through restoring it. My goal with FAST was two-fold:

1 - Have brand new, reliable, and quality wiring that allows me to simplify the engine bay, and possibly even eliminate the EGR and cold-start system.
2 - Have something that improves the efficiency of the engine, and allows it to run well across the engine RPM.


Well, to be clear, I got the EZ-EFI 2.0 system which says it has spark control (one of the primary differences between the normal EZ-EFI and the EZ-EFI 2.0).
I really appreciate the response here, what do you mean by "VR" type sensor? Can you tell me what that means?

I made this diagram a few years ago when I was first looking to figure out how this all works. I labeled the pin-outs, obviously we know what Ground is, I now also know that the "Bypass" is a lead to the ALDL port which allows you to disable spark advance so you can better adjust / tune the distributor... which leaves two things...
- TACH Output
- Timing Input

I have to look at the wiring harness for the EZ-EFI 2.0, but I know it requires a tach input... so 1 for 1 I assume, but that leaves timing input. Again, I don't have the wiring diagram (I don't get it until the 21st), but I assume there's 1 lead coming off of it that this would connect to? I guess what I'm asking is, would I simply be able to use the existing ignition control module? Or would I bypass all of that for some reason and directly use the two leads on the pickup coil? Any thoughts on this? Remember, I didn't buy the EZ-EFI, but the EZ-EFI 2.0, which does come with spark and timing advance / control.






Thank you!!!

TomP

I had to double-check the date on this message, hello 82-T/A and Six_shooter and everyone I haven't "seen" in a while! ! 82-T/A, glad to see you still have the Fiero and are bringing it back to life. I hear ya about storage fees- I try not to think about it. I'm trying to get my Firebird started this month, it's been a few years since it ran.

Not sure I can add much re: the system you're installing, but my guess would be, you'd just want to keep the v6 pickup coil output without the module, because I think that's all a crank trigger is (hall effect giving off a pulse when the 6 points of the reluctor magnet line up). The GM module would be modifying the pulse based on the GM computer and sending that out of the GM module to the black connector on the GM coil. So I would think, if you can hook the new system up (and be waterproofed) straight to the pickup coil, it might work just like a crank trigger. And just leave the old GM module in there as a spacer to keep the water out.

Also... our 2.8 ignition module (AC D1984A) is the same as used in a 1992 5.7 TPI. If this company does plug & play with a 5.7 TPI I'd bet same works for you except running in 6-cylinder mode. Do they have a tech line you can call?

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

When I say "EZ-EFI", that includes 2.0.

The one I have IS a 2.0. The ONLY difference between .0 and 2. is timing control, which again, is EXTREMELY basic, being only 3 points on a "timing curve".

So everything I said is exactly the same as I said, I didn't feel that I needed to a "2.0" whenever I mentioned "EZ-EFI" to be clear that either is a waste of time, especially when I mentioned the very basic timing control of the EZ-EFI, which only 2.0 has.

There are far better options, especially if "money is no object".

In theory retaining the original ignition module will work on paper, yes the signals in an out, in their most basic form are RPM reference and timing input, however, there is also a dwell component to the signal back in that is calculated by the OEM ECM, that is not adjustable with the EZ-EFI, IIRC, plus you will need to tap into the 5V signal (for the bypass), and either have the module always in ECM controlled timing mode, even during cranking or add more parts to have the timing switch over at a certain RPM, to have it mimic the OEM functionality. As I said, best way here is to avoid complications, and possible issues and just bypass the ICM, if you insist on using this system.

The "Bypass" does not connect to the ALDL connector, but is used by the OEM ECM to switch the module between base timing (ICM controlled timing/spark), and ECM controlled timing. The ECU applies 5V at a set RPM (typically 400 RPM) so that the ECM can take over timing control duties.

82-T/A [Work]

Hey guys, I got the system in the mail the other day, and spent a little bit of time talking to the tech in e-mail. In effect, I'll be able to bolt EVERYTHING up using my existing distributor and existing Ignition Control Module. Tech said it will 100% work.

Only issue he said I'll have is that the Electronic Spark Timing wire (which comes off the ICM) will need something in between to convert the ground-switching signal, into a positive switching signal. He said the "Easy-Button" for this is the 6EFI MSD ignition box, which does that conversion (and obviously provides additional benefits as well). Everything else bolts on, and I don't need a crank trigger, or a new distributor either. So that's pretty fantastic. I have the diagrams for EVERYTHING... so I'll detail it all when I post about it later in the week.

I'll respond to all the other posts in the next day or so, just wanted to provide that update for this thread.

EDIT: Essentially, I'll be able to use the stock distributor, and all the leads off the ignition control module's 4-pin connector connect to the FAST EZ-EFI 2.0, with the only point being that the 6EFI MSD sits inline. But of course, you get multiple-spark discharge and some other benefits. The 6EFI is black too, so it won't stand out in the engine bay and I can kind of hide it.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Huh? The signal to the ICM IS a ground signal....

You don't need the 6EFI, and feeding that signal into the ICM will destroy it, and won't give you multiple spark (The ICM will either filter out the extra pulses or cause erratic spark). The 6EFI will give several thousands or volts output, the ICM is only meant to have about 5V input to it max.

The 6EFI is meant to drive the coil directly and takes either a magnetic trigger in or points in (same signal as the coil is driven with). So the 6EFI becomes redundant.

This is my experience with FAST, they really have no clue about their own product or how to make it work.

82-T/A [Work]

Yes, the signal from the ICM, which is a ground-signal, needs to be converted to a digital Positive Switching signal for it to work with the FAST system, according to the tech.

Copy/paste:

1. Dig Gnd connects to the Black/White Wire in the Distributor Connector on the EZ harness
2. Bypass will need to connect to a Red/White 5v wire from the ECU. Fuel Pressure sensor lead might be the easiest place to splice in.
3. Hall Crank will connect to the White RPM Input wire in the Distributor Connector on the EZ Harness
4. EST is the Electronic Spark Timing wire. It will wire to the Brown Points Output of the ECU, but a digital relay or transistor needs to be in-between to convert the Ground Switching Signal into a Positive Switching signal.

He said that if I go with the 6EFI, then I wouldn't have to worry about trying to convert that signal, copy/paste:By the way, earlier you said:

Can you tell me what these are? If they do not involve creating my own wiring harness from scratch, sitting with a laptop and having to reflash PROMs, or going to the dyno to "dial it in," then I'm definitely interested. I have a feeling you're talking about Megasquirt... and honestly, they're just not there yet. Megasquirt is great if you don't mind the time investment into getting it working properly, and either working with a dyno owner, or making many WOT runs up and down the road with data logging and constantly changing the values.


Thanks!

SbFormula

The endless argument again. Someone does not agree with someone's else choice and they drive it in.

82-T/A [Work]

Yeah, I mean... I get it. I'm not offended by it, but I'm going through the same thing on the Fiero List. There are a few things that psychologically, people are really, really passionate about. Religion, Politics, and anything in which a person has invested a substantial amount of time working on / doing. The generally idea is... "WHY DON'T YOU SEE IT MY WAY?"

... that by picking a different path, I'm disregarding all the work and research this particular person has put into their own project. Now, I'm quite sure all of us on here probably agree on politics and possibly religion, haha... so I won't go there; however, with things like this, I think there's a bit more validity to "perspective."

I make no bones about the fact that a Megasquirt / 7730, with someone who has the time and effort to professionally create a perfect wiring harness, spend time developing a good tune from a downloadable base, and then spending time at a dyno to really dial in that tune... I'm sure that's going to be the *BEST* solution as it applies to eeking out every last bit of power from the car.

But as I've tried to make clear, I want simplicity, and I want to be able to continually do things to my car, and have it self-optimize to the extent that it can. The AFR may not be able to adjusted to lean at certain points to maximize a bit of horsepower. But chances are, I'm probably going to get 95-98% of the way there, and my driveability and reliability are going to be solid. This new system uses ALL GM sensors... meaning the connectors are all factory. More than anything... I want a new wiring harness because my car is already ~36 years old.

With this kit... I only have to do the fun part. That is, installing it, deciding how I want to rout it, and playing with all new stuff that I know "just works." There are 1000s of people using this system, successfully, including this guy:



... so I'm very pleased, and looking forward to it.

SbFormula

Keep TGO posted of your progress

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Megasquirt, Holley, MaxxECU, ECUMasters, Haltech and many others.

I don't understand the "money is no object", but you don't want to actually invest in getting your car to operate at it's peak.

Like I said I have used FAST in the past, which includes the EZ-EFI 2.0 and it's absolute garbage IMO, for the price you should have the option of manual tuning and there isn't.

I've used/tried "auto tuning" from a few manufacturers and NONE actually tune the VE table fully to be optimum. I do use auto tuning somewhat often, to rough in a VE table when I am working by myself, but this just gets the VE tables in the ballpark and always require manual tuning to dial in the tune. There isn't a single system out there that has any sort of auto tuning function for spark timing and IMO, spark timing is where you can really dial in the way an engine runs. Yes, tuning the fuel side is important, but can be pretty forgiving IMO, where as a properly tuning timing table really makes for an engine that operates smoothly. The EZ-EFI only has a 3 point curve that leaves a lot to be desired.

Holley is a better choice over EZ-EFI if you want "auto tuning", but the Holley still has the ability to manually tune, which you will want to do, even you think you don't right now. It has a basic setup wizard that allows for very basic function, similar to the EZ-EFI, but again can be much more finely tuned with software/laptop later. Holley has harnesses, which are OK, that could be close enough for your application, but because it's a Fiero, will require some level of modification anyway, as I'm sure the EZ-EFI harness will, and there is no hackery with an additional box needed, it will directly interface with the GM ICM, with FAR better support than most other companies out there. Holley's closed loop is hands down the BEST closed loop functionality that I have ever used.

Again, if "money is no object", then paying someone to build a harness and/or tune the engine shouldn't be an issue. It sounds to me like either money is an issue or you don't want to have anyone else work on your car, and are not willing to spend the time to learn a valuable set of skills.

For the other comments, this isn't about someone making a different choice, it's about relaying my EXPERIENCE, since automotive electrical and specifically EFI installs and tuning are what I do for a living, and pointing people in the direction(s) that will serve them best, but what they say, and by also knowing what does and doesn't work well. The same system doesn't work for every application, which is why I use a variety of systems for my client's needs, it's just most of the time a Megasquirt will serve them well, other times, a Holley works best, sometimes an ECUMasters fits the bill better, or a Haltech.

I'd like to know what you feel is lacking with Megasquirt. I have used different versions of the MS on many applications, and it has always worked well, and in many cases has more features than more expensive or recognized ECUs. The only thing I'd like to see added is native hardware support for DBW, instead of adding on a module to do that (Holley or Haltech are my go to for when that is needed). Built in transmission support is not something I really need often, and go to a Holley ECU for that generally, or add a Microsquirt to an MS system. Honestly, you sounds like many who say the MS is lacking and I suspect you haven't looked at them since 2010 or so, when, yes they were lacking and I avoided using them then, but the current MS3 offerings, especially the Pro versions are VERY capable, and are constructed well.

Either way, if you're stuck on the EZ-EFI, yes, it will get your engine running, but I really don't think you'll be happy with it in the end, next to no one I have spoken with or had contact with that has used them has been happy with them, and I come into contact with a lot of people regarding EFI installs and swaps. The ones that say they are happy I don't think understand how much better their engines can run, especially when I see them fire up and they are sputtering and rough, but hey, they idn't need to pump the pedal before it started, so that's good, I guess? I have one car upcoming that has an EZ-EFI system on it (1.0, not that it really matters), and it's being switched to a Holley Sniper, because the EZ-EFI hasn't ran right for a long time, maybe ever, and no matter what is done, since "tuning" the system is very lacking, it never really improves, and that is a common experience with these. Again, the firmware for the EZ-EFI hasn't been updated since 2010, which tells me they don't care about improving the system, and just go on the "if it runs, that's good enough" idea. It's an outdated system that has long been surpassed by many other systems out there. Hell, even FiTech seems to have a better handle on how to make a system actually perform, I haven't used one yet, but even the FiTech has the option for manual tuning, and they have MPFI based systems as well.

In short, I'm not suggesting not to use the EZ-EFI simply because it's not what I would have chosen, I actually encourage people to use different systems, often, but I am saying not to use it because it's not the best fit for your application. Regardless of what you THINK you want/need, having the ability to manually tune, especially when an engine is modified is key to getting the best performance out of an engine. No generic VE table that is modified by simply looking at very granular and basic AFR settings will get you there.

82-T/A [Work]

[EDIT] Not going to go down this road and roll in the mud with you. I removed everything I said, and I'm going to ignore most of that, respectfully.

No, I don't like other people working on my car, especially my Fiero. Many years ago, I went to a shop and they lifted my car using the cooling tubes as the lift points. Trashed my car. Ever since then, I've done everything myself... never been to another garage or dealership since. Ultimately, I'm not the same person I was 10 years ago when I spent my weekends in the junkyard and spent all my time working on cars. Maybe it was the deployment in Afghanistan that changed me, or everything that's going on right now in this country... but I do not have time to screw around with stuff that's unimportant. I work 10 hours a day, and spending what little spare time I have with family is more important. As for the valuable skills comment... sigh... I responded to that but chose to remove it. I'm an engineer in several disciplines, there's very little I cannot do, or haven't already done. You're a moderator, you should not be TRYING to start fights with people. Please respect that I do not share the religious fundamentalism for Megasquirt as you do. If they had a "Fiero kit," I would have already bought it... but they don't.

About as much as calling the lumber department at the local Home Depot, "a completed house."

.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

I'm not trying to pick a fight with anyone, I am laying out the facts that you are choosing to ignore. I've been down this road many times, both myself and when trying to guide others.

I can appreciate not wanting other people to work on your car, which is why I've developed the skills I have, so that I can be self sufficient, and I can also offer those skills to others who don't have the time time or desire to do it themselves, and it's a good business to be in.

From your comments, I can tell your stubborn and don't want to listen to experience, but you believe you know more than someone that has the skills you feel are not worth your time, If you really are as good as you say you are at doing some of the things you claim, then building a harness and tuning should come very easy and not take near as much time as you think t will. I can tell that you don't actually research other options once you have your mind set on something, you've been looking at the EZ-EFI since at least 2018, when you made another thread about this, and have completely ignored the vastly better options that have come out since then. You also using that comparison for Megasquirt shows just how little research you actually do. YOu obviously have not looked at the MS3 Pro, or PnP options that have come out over the years. There's no need for a "Fiero Specific" kit, and even the EZ-EFI kit you bought isn't Fiero specific so I don't see why that really matters.

Simply, you are buying into this idea, and misleading sales pitch of "self tuning" or "auto tuning" and are in for a world of disappointment, once you realize that it just doesn't do what is advertised, at least not in a way that gets the most out of the combination. I will never understand the idea of spending thousands of dollars on modifying the mechanical side of the engine, then either cheaping out on the control side or using something not well suited to the task. I see this frequently, because people buy into hype or sales pitches, and not listening to people with actual hands on experience doing exactly wat they are trying to do, and these people end up spending more in the end, than if they had just listened to the experienced and knowledgeable people trying to steer them in the best direction for their intended use.

It's your time to waste, I was just trying to save you the wasted time and money and steer you into a better suited product (not necessarily Megasquirt either), but you're dead set on using an outdated system, that doesn't live up to the sales pitch, from a company where the techs don't even understand the product they are supposed to be providing support for.

Good luck.