Nova73

Why did Gm install a radiator fan switch that operates @ such a high temperature-222-238 degrees F ? I believe that high of a operating temperature is hard on a aluminum block. Do you agree or disagree?
I have been concerned a bout this issue for sometime now, so with the help of Mark and Bob, I installed a on & off toggle switch that supplies power from terminal F of the Fan Relay. So far everything seems to be operating properly. Engine runs smooth and that was my main concern, because of the ECM.
I personally like having manual control of the engine temperature, especially during this hot weather we are getting here in PA. Appreciate any and all comments on this matter.

Nova73

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Your 2.8l engine is a cast iron block and heads. If the head temperature switch is SAE threads, you can use one from an '89 TTA. It has a lower on/off temperature. Odds are though, that the threads are metric. But check the old fan switch to be sure, never know, they may be SAE NPT.

RBob.

Nova73

Bob, thanks for the correction on the block and heads. I've already replaced the Coolant Fan Switch. Was not that difficult, just had to move the coli out of the way. I tapped into the coolant fan switch wire at the fan relay connection and now have an ignition fed on and off toggle switch to control the fan as you and Mark have suggested. I just wanted to have manual control of the fan. The fan switch I've been told closes @ around 222 degrees F. to turn the fan on, which I think is a little too high for my comfort level. Especially when your running a 195 degree thermostat and with all the heat we have been having here in PA this summer.

Nova73

Bob, some of my facts are wrong. I now understand that the operating temperature on an automotive engine is about 223 degrees F., so I guess the fan switch closing @ 222 degrees is normal. I guess my drastic measures were not necessary. But I still like the manual control option.

Nova73

Bob, how do you open the bleeder valve on top of the steering gear box on a 2.8L V6 I know you have to open the large nut, but it has a allen head bolt on top of it. Must you remove that allen head nut or bolt what ever its called to open the bleeder?

RBob

iTrader: (1)

If this is a stock P/S box, there isn't any bleeder valve. Don't mess with the pieces you mentioned, if they are the ones I an thinking of, they are used to make adjustments. That is main shaft end play and gear engagement.

The way to bleed a P/S box is to jack up the front of the car so the front tires are off the ground. Then at a normal pace turn the front wheels full left and full right several times.

Check fluid level and add some if required. Then do it again until it no longer requires fluid to be added. Now do the same with the engine running. With the running engine keep the box off the stops (left and right stops).

Lower car and see how it drives.

RBob.

Nova73

Yes, I already determined that and how to bleed the system. Thanks for that information. Very much appreciate the information

Nova73

Bob, do you know what the size of the power steering line nuts are? I can not seem to find the right size wrench.to fit it.