jackhammer

I try to drive my old Camaro once every week or two just to keep it running. It has been running great until today. It was a little hard to start but it started when I gave it some gas. I haven't drove it since the middle of December. I put 5 gallons of gas in the tank and drove it 21 miles since then, about half of them today. I was almost home when I slowed down to make a sharp corner. It stalled during or right after that. I tried to started it but it acted like it wasn't getting gas. Any ideas what is wrong? I got a few cranks out of it but then the starter stopped working.
It has had a wiring issue with the starter that I haven't had time to fix. I guess that the wire that goes between the key and the starter needs to be replace because when it is cold it starts but once the engine and the wire heat up it won't turn the starter. Jump starting it doesn't work either. The only thing that works is waiting an hour for it to cool off, then it starts no problem. I've replaced the wire from the battery to the starter, also the start and solenoid but that didn't solve the problem.
Anyway I just want to get the car home for now and deal with it's starter problem later.

drdave88

iTrader: (3)

I have heard of the starting issue with starters going bad. They get hot and won't engage to crank the engine, but work fine when cold. There could be a wiring issue as well.

Are there any modifications to the starting system that you're aware of; remote start, etc? How old is the starter? You can have them tested out of the car.

As far as the stalling issue, you need to confirm that you are getting fuel to the injectors first. Check for pressure at the rail, make sure the fuel pump is turning on.

jackhammer

I read in another thread, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...tart-when.html that the cause of the starter problem is that the wire from the key to the starter is too thin to begin. Then over time the wire corrodes or a few of the strands break, and since heat increases electrical resistance there is not enough voltage to engage the starter. It seems logical to me because jump starting doesn't help but waiting an hour or so does. I have replaced the starter and solenoid a couple of times but it never fixes the problem. Still I am not an expert at auto electric so I could be missing something. I know that even with a full tank of gas that the gauge only goes up to 1/4, but it still seems to work as it goes toward empty as gas is used up.

As for stalling, I have checked the fuse to the injectors and the fuel pump. They are good. When I try to start it I can smell gas. When it stalled, it didn't sputter or anything like when a car runs out of gas. It was more like someone just turned off the key. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator in the past but it is not acting like that is the problem. I think the problem is electrical. It is raining so I haven't yet tried to check for spark by removing a spark plug wire. Any suggestions are welcome.

drdave88

iTrader: (3)

I've seen that post too before. Not saying it is/is not your issue, just want to make sure that is your issue before diving into the harness. Fuel gauge is likely a sticky sending unit in the tank, not uncommon on old vehicles either.

Do you physically hear the pump running when you turn the key on, but don't start the car? When you turn the key on, you should hear the pump run for approx 2 seconds. If you hear the pump running, put a pressure gauge on the end of the rail, what kind of pressure do you have?

Are you getting spark? Verify spark at all 6 plugs. I had an ICM go bad on the road once, just died. Coincidentally, I was going around a corner as well and it crapped out. When did you last do a tune up on the vehicle; plugs, wires, cap/rotor, etc?

jackhammer

I think I can hear the fuel pump and I can smell gas when I try to start it. It didn't act like it ran out of gas. I have done that a few times in the past and it doesn't seem the same.
I hooked up a timing light and it doesn't seen to be getting any spark. The timing light seemed like the best way to test for spark since I have to do this alone. It's been a long time since any tune up but it's been running great and it hasn't been that many miles since I only drive it about once every week or two just to keep it running. It's my secondary car.

drdave88

iTrader: (3)

Since you're not getting spark to the plugs, work backwards. Check the the cap and rotor (carbon tracking, etc. or just replace it if its old), then coil, then power to the coil, etc. If you don't have one, get a service manual to help with all of this. They're available through most parts stores and will walk you through no spark conditions. It will show you which pins to test for power/ground at the coil and distributor/ICM. That will be better than tossing parts at it blindly.

jackhammer

Thank you for your help. Just to follow up. I replaced the ICM and while I was at it I also replaced the rotor and the cap since they both came together as a set. I charged up the battery for a few minutes and it started right up. I noticed that the tachometer is jumping around erratically now but I was just happy to get it started and into the garage instead of it being outside. The wind blows like a hurricane here and I don't want at tree branch to fall and hit it. I didn't even drive it around the block yet because I have too much other stuff going on right now. Just happy it's back in the garage for now.

jackhammer

Like a stated previously, I replaced the ICM and that fixed the problem. Now however the tach needle bounces all over the place when before it was completely steady. Any ideas why this is happening and how to fix it? I did notice that there is a tiny wire inside the distributor cap which was pinched by the cap. Could that be the problem? What is that wire attached to and is the wire part of that part or just a wire that can be replaced easily by itself?