Timmie

wel, greece is bankrupt because of them faking numbers. and looks likes belgium has also faked a lot of numbers.
at this moment the govermnt is doing everything it can to find 10 billion.
most of that momeny comes from car drives.
now you pay 10k taxes for a new camaro instead of 5K taxes etc....
gas is now at 1.80 euro/L for premium.


thats 8.9 dollar for a gallon.
except that a lot of companies that are looking at their money ATM.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Holy crap. I cant complain over here then. Thats alot of taxes and a ton for gas. Over here 4 dollars a gallon is what it has been lately for gas. I wont complain about gas prices anymore after seeing that in US dollars its near 9 bucks a gallon.

So your saying if I was to go buy a new camaro there id pay 10k $ in taxes after the cost of the car. Wow man, im sure there isnt too many people buying them up like they are overhere in the states.

Timmie

a new camaro ( grey market ) costs 42000 euro. ( only way to have american taillights and mirrors etc )
http://nl.kapaza.be/west-vlaanderen/...i-60783069.htm

the european model also costs around 45000 euro.



then you have to pay your first tax to bring it on the road.
thats 10000 euro
then you need to pay your yearly tax witch is between 2000 en 2500 euro.

then ofcours there is insurance etc,......

Timmie

ok, the car drives, but the computer counts knocks ( but it doesn't pull the timing )


now to the vacuum leak, wel it looks like it has something to do with my heater controls because the second I put them on vents, heater or window the car stalls almost inmediatly ( right after it backfires in the exhaust )

even with the foot on he gas and moving the slider will make the ar backfire.

so I started looking witch vacuumline is going to the heater controls but I got lost somewhere.

so lets go over it.

1) from front of intake to the fuelrail.
2)from front of intake to vapor canister
3) from back of intake to brake booster.
4) from back of intake to map sensor.
5) from back of intake ( where brake booster sits ) to cruise control.



( things no longer on my car and by that also removed the line completely )
1) orbb of (vacuum)power.
2) airpump

( what we replaced with the rebuild)
heater valve ( broke the original 1 and got a new 1 from rockauto )




the question of the day.....
where does the heater controls connect to.

Timmie

ok, just a really stupid question about setting timing.
if you just rebuild your car, and you want to put the timing on the distributor. how do you start ?
because at this point , I first put in the new dizzie the right way so that it fires cilinder 1 when its on compression TDC.
then I take the dizzie cap of, turn the crank untill the mark of the balancer is on 10 degrees BTC. and then I put turn the ignition untill it would spark at that timing.

then I putthe diziecap back on and start the car.
yet I got the feeling that my teaming is a wee bit to late, since with the EST connector disabled it starts up, goes to 1500 rpm, then it starts to drop in rpm with 200 rpm decreases. untill it stalls and backfires in the exhaust.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Mind you, your timing will only be right if you got the rotor to point at the #1 cylinder when it is at TDC(which is 0 degrees TDC) If you dont have that right then it probly wont start.

But you dont need to remove the cap to adjust the timing once the rotor is lined up.

Ok, well dont mess with the dizzy unless the timing is off. Set up your timing light to get the signal from #1 cylinder. Loosen the hold down tab/bolt on the dizzy. Then disconnect the Est wire, then start the car.Turn the dizzy if needed to get the timing to where you want. Mine is @8 degrees. Then tighten down the dizzy hold down bolt. Recheck the timing real quick to make sure its still where you want it. Then reset the ecm(disconnect battery or ecm fuse), let it sit for a minuet. Then attatch the est wire and fire the car up and your good to go.

Timmie

well, thats exactly my point,
all you guys start up the car when you check your timing.
but the very first time, before you can start the car, you have to make shure the timing on the car is right. how do you do that ?

I mean, lets say I make shure that its at 0 degrees with the ESC off, and the very first time you start the car.
car probably wont even start that way, so you advance the timing a wee little bit. untill the car goes or what ?

Timmie

let me even put it differently, there are 6 way you can install the dizzy in its hole.

we checked the dizzy so that when cilinder 1 is on the end of its compressionstroke that the dizzie is pointing at the sparkplugwire for cilinder 1. ( at 7 o clock on the dizzy )

ow I noticed that on all firebirds and camaro's I came accross the ECS connectors are almost always pointing straight to the right when your in the car.
( or when your infront of the car, and the back of the engie is north and the front of the engine is south. the ESC modele itself is pointing almost straight the the west.
ATM on the camaro the ESC module is poinintg Northwest.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

When I first started my car after the cam install. I had it set at 0* btdc. It started hard but it started, I had a friend turn(advance) the timing untill it ran "ok" then I broke in the cam. After the cam was broken in I went back and dialed in the timing better. Youd be amazed at what timing a the car will start. Its not a good thing BUT I've started the car on 4 cylinders a few times when I was playing with it and messed up the firing order on 2 cylinder.

As long as that rotor is facing your #1 cylinder on the TDC stroke(both valves closed) then you will be at 0 degrees btdc when you fire it up. Have a friend or someone turn the dizzy clockwise(IIRC) to advance it untill the car starts. Also your harmonic balancers thick notch should be at the 0 degree mark. I really dont think it matters which way the dizzy goes in, although the connections should be facing the coil and such so that you can plug in all the wire harnesses.

Timmie

well we got it running OkAy now.

the timing was WAY off, like right of the scale.
so I turned the dizzie so that the connectors under it where facing west instead of nordwest. and with a timinglight and the esc connector disconnected we put it on 10 degrees.
car ran good. so we disconnected the battery,
reconnected the esc connector. waited a while.
reconnected the esc connector.
And, no go, the car didn't want to go, it tried to start, but it just wouldnt work.
so we retarded the timing to 8 degrees and the car started and ran fine.

I don't know if the computer still needs to learn some values or something, but when I step on the gas the air/fuel gauge first goes up to max rich, but then goes back to lean. ( maybe I didnt step it deep enough but normally I think more then 3/4 throttle the car should just not listen to the
O2 sensor and dump fuel in the engine ( or am I wrong here )
so anyway it seems that im running lean.
this is with slightly polished intake, headers, airpump delete and 260H cam.


didnt wire up the computer this time ( forgot )
I didnt hear any knock or anything, te only time I think he pulls on the timing is when I keep revving it from 2000 to 4000 rpm a couple of tims fast behind eachother.


further I still got a vacuum leak that has something to do with my heater controls.
now Im thinking if I should fix the heater controls themselves ( altough they work fine by themselves )
or just put those things ( like cruisecontrol, heater, orbb of power behind a vacuumpump instead of letting the engine do the vacuum for those things.

I also think I want to run a belt that still runs the ac, but no longer the airpump.
anyone that knows what belt I need.
I heard something about a 6k905 ?

Timmie

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWSQ6...ature=youtu.be movie of he day.

the timing is set at around 8 degrees

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Nice. But does it show knock like then when your driving it and not just free reving it?? Thats alot of KR your getting at times, just wana make sure your not seeing that when your driving it.

Timmie

I was not able to check that yet.
but what would set knock of and not when you drive ?

I think when I drive it easy I wont have knock. but I think when Im gonna step on the gass I'm gonna lean it out.

btw, got my hands on some 17 psi injectors from a 3.4.
you think it would be a good plan to put those in ?
better rich then poor I think, or am I wrong here ?

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Sometimes as with my car, when I free rev the motor I get KR. I think its just because of the noisy valvetrain.

17lbs would be better. Im not sure as youd have to ask others if it would make it alot richer at idle. But I would think it would be ok. Yea rich, to a point, is better then lean anyday.

You ever put lower temp plugs in the car?

Timmie

nope, no lower temp plugs
stock ac delco plugs

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

If you can get r42ts plugs AC delco Plugs, since you have a higher comp ratio motor those might help along with gapping them a little tighter...about .035. Its just a though.

Timmie

man this car is getting spookie on me....
so I reattached my grounds on the passenger side of the block because they where loose. ( this made my car go funky f I put my heater blower or my Fan on )

and put underneath it 2 extra ground straps. 1 fromt the side of the alternator to the firewall, and 1 from the firewall to the passenger side head.


the car runs, but it almost inmediatly throws me some codes.

code 33, 35 and 42.
I also have a very high idle.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Thats some weird symtoms, re-check the grounds again as that is very important. But else then that its just a wiring problem somwhere, that would be my guess.

Timmie

maybe it has something to do because when I had the weird surging and dying problems ( when the fan came on )
I pulled the IAC connector ( the 1 on the throttle bypass )
and the car went to 1200 rpm instead of 800 at idle.
maybe it has something to do with that.
the part where my idle control is way of. giving my a vacuum error etc also.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

You mean you pulled off the wired connection for the IAC?? Did you put it back on???

Check the laptop and see what the TPS% or voltage is when your idling is.

.55 volts DC is normal for the TPS voltage(IIRC)

You car is a auto right?? Re-set the computer and then let it just idle for 5 minuest in park, then drive it for 5 minuets and see if the idle relearn has anything to do with it. Sorry in really no help. As what your describing just seems like a sensor or wireing problem and that stuff can be snaky to find.

Timmie

lol, it was something stupid.
wel I reconenected the mass on the back of the block. but by doing that I accidentally pumped out the the map vacuum line on the back op the block.
I reconnected the thing, and all errors where gone

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Cool man good deal!! Glad she up and running.

Timmie

ok, im gonna revive this thread out of the dead.
we are more then a year later.
the car got repainted, I put in new floorboards, I redid the transmission.
and my car stil doesn't pull right because it keeps picking up engine knocks. and i dont know where its comming from.

I'm really getting to a part where I want to bring this thing to the crusher and say goodbye to thirdgens alltogether. I put over 15K in this car..
it could be the valvetrain but if I adjust it any further, its running very rich. ( so I think my valves stay open then )


reminds me, they say you have to thighten the valves at 0.5 to 1.0 turn after 0 lash.
but if you do that don't you push the valves open ?

anyway, a movie of the knock..
at full throttle driving I cant get it past 3500 rpm, at that point I it pulls the timing so hard it wont climb in rpm.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

You turn 1/2-3/4 turn past 0 lash when the valve(s)/cam in the closed position. It will never open up the valves all it does is put pressure on the springs, pushrods, the lifter, and in turn the cam.

That is alot of KR! Wow! I would clearly say its false if your running that car arround this whole time and its doing that.

Remind me are you tuning that puppy too? Burning chips?

What are the valves set in the bin for the knock retard? Have you ever touched them?

What are the spark plugs gapped at? I would assume you made sure the timing matches what the bin file says for base timing.
No loose rockers that you can hear?

Timmie

I have driven this car for 30 miles since last year...

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

damm thats it? I know that has to be very flustrating.

Timmie

so I set my valvelash again. I released the bolt not and started again from scratch.
I did 1 cilinder at a time so I made sure cilinder 1 was completely closed and set those 2 valves.
turned to engine over untill cilinder 2 was completely closed then set those 2 valves.

I bolted the nut until there was zero play in the rod and that I felt a slight resistance in it.
after that I gave the bolt 270 degrees extra ( preload )


well guess what.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmAQ-...ature=youtu.be
again it rattles.
that means again throwing the engine open. and even worse probably because its a dead lifter ( so it seems ) I can even take the mid piece ( between the cilinders heads ) out if it. wich also requires the water to be let out of the engine, wich also requires the dizzy to be removed.


I HAVE HAD IT WITH THIS ****!!!

project89

iTrader: (1)

u are either setting them to tight or u have a collapsed lifter

pull both valve covers off start the engine , start at the front of the head back off the first rocker nut till it starts clacking , then slowly tighten until the noise stops , from there go 180* and move onto the next

if u come across one that will not stop making noise it either has a bad cam lobe or the lifter is shot


be aware oil will spray all out u can take a towel/rag and roll it up and lay it over the pushrod side of the rocker to stop the oil spray

they also make lil clips u can install while ur doing this to stop it which are for a small block chevy but the rockers on the v6 are the same so they should work, they are only a few bucks a set

i couldnt liosten to the video cause im at work but when i get home in 2-3 hours ill take a listen to the noise for ya

edit heres the oil deflectors

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEGS-Performance-Products-80517-Rocker-Arm-Oil-Deflectors-/400295471684?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d33782a44&vxp=mtr

project89

iTrader: (1)

this is how they install on the rockers , when ur done u just remove them and reinstall the valve covers and check the oil level

Timmie

Lifters are brand new and came with the cam together with springs etc.
@
Problem is i know its prbably the lifter thats stuck or something but I dont want to tear in the engine again. Gonna try to loosen the lifter with an oil additif first.

Timmie

Ok, I still got problems with this knock retard ****.

so Im running here out of options and Im gonna start to learn how the write chips.

so now im turning to you guys, what do I all need the write chips.
I think I have an old Eeprom reader/burner. and if needed I buy the burn 2 chip reader from moates.

now, how do you start on it.

what program do I use to read the chip in the computer.
what kind of file is it ( is it something you just open in notepad or something and edit ? )


then , I want to edit out the knock sensor.
how do I start with that ?


etc, etc....