THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

basically my car (92 rs 3.1/5speed) died on me the digital egr melted as a plastic vac line that comes off throttle body!
cut the plastic line and installed the vac line and she started drove limped her to the closes napa they didt have a egr valve so i got it in the next morning installed. it fired it u and she ran good till about a quater mile down the road she died nothing after that. shes park in the yard let here sit over nite. she fires up but she smokes like a rasta with low pressure put of the tail pipes !
ive changed the following
vac lines
plugs
wires
cap
rotor
ignition coil
ignition mod
oil and filter
and the digital egr

so things iam thinking i need to check
clogged cat
timing
fuel pump
relays maybe?

please shed some light iam off on vac for a week with no car ugghhh thanks again !
any other tips and trick i should keep in mind ?
thanks again fellas !

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

Wow, you're throwing alot of crap at it all at once. Do yourself a favor and get a can of carb cleaner and start spraying stuff. Look for a vacuum leak. Then slow down and describe what's going on a little clearer.

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

ok i redid the post after i calm down lol thanks bl85c !

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

OK, so have you found a vac leak?

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

nope i had one before but i found it and replaced the lines !

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

What's your fuel pressure?

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

the lastime i checked it it waz around 38 - 42 ! i was gonna check it today but the car just dies iam gonna rent a fuel pressure gauge tomorrow !

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

When you replaced the plug wires, did you put them back in the factory clips, or did you leave them hanging? It sounds like you either a. got the firing order wrong, or b. routed a wire too close to one of the exhaust manifolds, which melted and shorted it out, or c. you have an injector (or injector wiring) problem.

What was the last thing you did to your car before it started going nuts, and when?

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

hey mave i just routed like the last po had them and it was the factory wires i know ugh ! but the one i replaced was with the cheepo rubber ones and they where a bit longer .
i found the burnt wire after i broke the bolt off the manifold connecting the egr tube ! so iam wait till friday so i can go get better grade plug wires like accel .

here some pics



mave do you think i need to run some engine flush like seafoam and change my plugs
iam wating on a working used ecu and and distrib to replace the rusty one thats in th car now i still get the code 43 even after i changed the knock sensor !
im give the engine bay a good cleaning tomorrow ! thanks mave .

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

That got roasted. What did you do with the egr?

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

I still have it it toasted too the plastic is melted and one of the valve are loose too so i bought a new one set me back like 114 but it give me a piece of mind now !
as allways pic below..........

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

You're going to have some fun drilling that broken EGR bolt out of the manifold... I recommend an air drill if you have one because electric ones are a little tight to try to get the right angle. Don't forget to center punch the broken bolt before drilling.

Anyways, when you replace the plug wires, run the #1 wire around the OUTSIDE of the EGR tube and through the rear alternator bracket. You won't burn another one that way. There's supposed to be at least one wire guide on that side that you run the wires through... If it's like all of mine are, it's probably broken.

BTW, you're probably going to want at least a new coil for now and probably a new ignition module in a couple of months... The module especially doesn't like having a spark plug wire ground out before the plug, and the coil may possibly be shorted internally now.

Oh, and from the looks of it, you should probably also clean up the mating surfaces between the EGR tube and the manifold, and then put a circle of high-temp RTV or something around the big hole... I see you've had an exhaust leak there for a while .

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

yeah i have a air drill and i will seal the big hole yeah my clips are broken ! can i just get a set from a auto place iam getting accels on friday with a new tps sensor and intake gasket set and a new coil i have a back up ignition mod !
i will head you advice about the number one plug thanks again mave your a life saver !

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

You can get a set of plug wire guides, but I think they somehow attach to the valve cover (on top). There really isn't a way to get factory replacements.

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

oh mave i ment just the wire clips. hey to cover big hole is there a gasket for that ! bc i went to napa and i think they gave me a gasket thats a looks like a crush type in stead of the two diffrent types we talked about for the exaust flanges but i gotcha ya on the clips thanks again !

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

The wire guides are clips. No, there is no EGR tube gasket (for the manifold mounting, there is a gasket for each end of the silver corrugated pipe and the bottom of the valve), which is why I use high-temp RTV on mine (preferably either the gray or copper).

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

ok cool thnks i'll post of pic of what they sold me bc i gonna just take off the old exhaust doughut and take it with me when i go get the parts friday or saturday ! thanks again !

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

ok i called back to napa and a oldtimer and a tech guy cleared things up for me
what i bought was the filler for the non flange gasket not the gasket it self!




i have another quick question
what is the name of this gasket and does it come in a intake gasket set ?



thanks again

Gumby

90* drill adapter, best $10 tool to have around that gets used very little.

a1raceworld

Not sure where you are at on this issue but have you check the timing to see if the chain has slip a tooth ,how many mile are on the car.I have a 91 rs and had to change the timing chain at 110,000 miles .

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

umm hey the car has about 83,103 miles
i havent got my replacement parts yet!
as of now iam gonna change the plug wires fix the ehaust leak and take the coil and ignition mod get them tested if there good take it all homeinstall then fire her up i didnt have any timing problems just a bad idle.
i do have a extra computer to change out i have a better distrib comin in as the last thing to change bc it is pretty rusty !
thanks again fellas !

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

how bad was it to change the the timing chain bc i wanted to do my own in a weekend to save some bucks !

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

The gasket ontop of the throttle is for the IAC adapter. You'll probably have to buy a rebuild kit to get it. You need to use a metallic gasket for the egr not silicone. It will burn and contaminate your O2 sensor despite what the company may claim. By the way, you haven't been running around without the egr sealed up have you? Timing chain isn't terribly difficult. Maybe 2 hrs. You need to get a dampner, waterpump gasket & timing chain gasket as well to do it. Just be sure to keep coolant out of the oil when you take the cover off.

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

thanks bl85c well honestly i only drove the car two weeks and what itn the pic is what was on the as of now the car has not been driven i had to wait to get new wires and i have to fix the egr tube stud the new egr with metal gaskets
the pic was take when i took the old egr off and installed the new one ! i found the iac apadter gasket yes it was in a set i dont get it till the 29 ! so iam clean everythin up put a seal around the big hole and fix the ehaust leak!
i might wait to on the better distrib to get here so i can put the newer cap and rotor and on the lower half to replce the old rusty distirb shaft
i'll keep yall FELLAS updated thanks for all help !

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Funny, I have BOTH of my exhaust manifolds (and donut gaskets) sealed with gray RTV (actually, the driver's side is sealed with gray and the pass side with copper) and I have yet to contaminate my O2S... Only reason I had to replace it a couple of months ago was because I pulled the wire out of it . Just let the RTV set for 24 hours before you put anything back together.

And you probably won't need a damper if and when you replace the timing chain unless yours has slipped time... Just the puller is all you need for that. The timing cover gasket set should come with the front oil seal AND the water pump gasket (if you don't cheap out and just get a NAPA timing cover gasket... the FelPro set has everything in it). BTW, when you get the timing cover loose, don't just try to pull it straight out as you may break the front of the oil pan gasket. You have to tilt it out at the top and pull it up to get it over the front of the oil pan gasket. I recommend changing the oil after you are done just to be on the safe side.

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

I've seen it many times. White crap gradually coats the platinum inside the sensor 'till it can't read properly anymore.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Somehow that doesn't make any sense. If you put RTV or a gasket on exhaust parts to keep exhaust from blowing OUT of the system, how does the silicone get sucked down INTO the O2S? There's a reason I specified high temp... It won't burn as easily as the red and blue and black crap that everyone uses to seal up their intakes. Gray is rated at 600*F and the copper up to 750. Besides, the imports use RTV to seal EVERYTHING, which is why they developed the GRAY to withstand high temps. Heck, our engines instructor in school told us to use RTV to seal small exhaust leaks (and he KNOWS high-performance engines, having a mid 60's Vette, among others).

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

It squishes out between joints and such. Most sealants will burn inside the exhaust system when exposed to 1300*+ exhaust gases & raw fuel. When it burns and gets lose in the exhaust stream it can combine with other materials (like the platinum in your O2 sensor) and form a nice insulating layer. It would be nice if this crap worked but in my experience most every joint sealant just sucks. I've never had an exhaust repair come back on me if I used metal gaskets or interference fit. Takes longer to get sealed properly but works.

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

thanks fellas i found the iac gasket set ! it it will be in my town on the 29 !
as for the gasket in post 18 is that the gasket that goes between the egr tube snd the ehxaust mani ? it dosent look like the donuts gasket the maverick posted in another ! any body ever seen this kind of gasket ?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

AFAIK, there is no replacement gasket for the EGR tube base, and I don't think there was one there in the first place for most of us. You could get high-temp gasket material (non-RTV) and make one if you're really ambitious.

The donuts I posted in another thread were for the manifold-to-crossover pipe connection, BTW, not for the EGR.

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

Thanks mave i know its not for the u pipe in the ehxaust mainfold. i was wonder if anybody has used the gasket in post 18 in this thread !
bc the gasket dosent fit for the ehxaust . i was gonna coat it sealent and repeat the other side and install it where the egr pipe meets the ehxaust pipe in post 9

thanks for all the help fellas

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Are you sure that gasket is one piece, and how big is it (say, compared to the donuts)? Cause in the pic, it looks like a roll of some sort of gasket material you would roll out and put where you need it. Then again, how that would work, I don't quite know...

Gumby

Its not the RTV per say but whats in the RTV,

use only 100% clear silicone [ no addtives] on exhaust parts.

cheaper in a caulk tube at walmart.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Can you give any examples of where you used it, and how well does it hold up?

Gumby

Use to use it on the headers at the engine of my 2 stroke drag bike.
Similar on a Honda 250.

I use it on all exhaust connection from Y pipe donut on back on my cars. [nevsr had headers off block or id use it there too.]
Works better then clamps on slip fit auto store stuff too.

seals like a charms and won't burn away

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

got layed off so iam low on funds but i gotta get my car running so i can get back on my feet and get a better job !

so i have a hanynes manual
iam going to try and rest the timing ?

my cars runs so i just dont wanna leave anything out in the process fot resting the timing

1 unplug the tan grey plug with tan/black wires
2 pull the #1 spark wire and plug to feel for compression
3 put spark plug back in
4 put wire back on #1 spark plug
5 turn crankshaft pully to match up with the widest mark on the pully
to match 0 on the timing tab
6 pull the wires off the cap
7 pull the cap to check to see if the rotor is pointing to the #1 or #4 cylinders
to confirm tdc
8 while the cap is off try and losen the bolt and slider to the dissy
9 put the cap back on and reinstall the cap
10 reinstall wires check spark plugs /caps/coil
11 start car and adjust timing with timing light

i hope i didnt leave anything out !
please chime in if i did !
i already replaced the wires iam changes the plugs when i get a new coil and when i replace the ignition mod !
did i leave anything out !


so when i get the first unemployment check
iam gonna get a few thing to replace when i check the timing

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

You're making it too hard on yourself.

1. Loosen dizzy bolt until the dizzy is just barely loose but tight enough that the engine's torque won't turn it by itself.
2. Find the 10* BTDC mark on the timing pointer and mark with Wite-Out or a small tube of paint. Do the same for the wide mark on the damper.
3. Start the engine and let it warm up to operating temperature (when the idle drops if it's going to, or past the 160 mark on the gauge).
4. Shut the engine off, unplug the tan/black harness connector by the blower housing, and connect your timing light.
5. Put the timing light on either the #1 OR #4 plug wires (same position on balancer so it doesn't make a difference).
6. Restart the engine.
7. Line up the timing marks on the damper and the timing pointer by turning the dizzy. Be sure that you are looking at the marks as straight on as possible to avoid possible errors. Turning the dizzy to the right (wear gloves or you might get a shock) retards the timing (decreases it) and to the left advances it.
8. Turn the engine off, tighten the dizzy bolt, and restart. Check the marks again.
9. Reconnect the timing bypass (tan/black) connector and go.

:edit: Make sure you have the proper firing order, 1-6 in order, before you begin, or it won't be right no matter what you do.

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

thanks mave i waz reading that good ole hayes manual !

quick question i dont have any dissy wrenches whats the best way to get the bolt loose ?

thanks again for the great input !

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

i have a couple of questions!
i didnt see a maf on my car when i got it but i did see the iat in the old air filter intake cansister !
is it safe like that? i added the duel air intake it has a maf on it but i dont have a plug or wiring! do i need the maf or can i just use a tpi intake tube ?
does this car have speed density instead of a maf ?
do you have exaple of speed density iam only asking bc this is a big part that seems to be missing !
i'll post a before and after of the engine bay


after


before





i was thinking i could remove the iac sensor and wire and install it in the tube in dual air intake!
your thoughts and comments thanks again !

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Go back to your original air intake set up. No MAF is required. If you look in your second "before" pic there, up and to the right of that messed-up evaporator case, you'll see the MAP sensor. There is a single screw holding the bracket in place by the widest part of the wiper cowling. Under that is the MAP, with a 3-wire green connector.

For the dizzy bolt, I generally use a 15mm short socket with a u-joint (or a u-joint socket if you have one, I don't) and a 12" extension on a 3/8" ratchet.

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

hey mav thanks the old filter was dirty and beat to crap !

i figured the set up would be better bc it bring in more cold air!
i can just ditch the maf and replace wit just the tpi tube it self ?
can i leave the iat right where its at?
i'll have all the tools in the last post the bolt is really stuck lol
i'll spray it with some wd40 or some pb !
thanks i'll keep ya updated !
thanks again mave !

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Ditch the MAF, leave the IAT, and connect the bellows the way it's supposed to be, from the TB to the air filter box. Easy. Better yet, if the MAF is good (look at the square of film inside to see if it's completely flat against a light), sell it to me. Mine's toast.

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

lol i'll check it out tomorrow if is good i'll give it too ya just pm
the address you want it sent too ! youve been a great help !
thanks again !

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

hey i ran out and pulled maf off the car i dont what flim is in the maf but , ill get some pics and see if this is what you need !

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Like I said, inside the MAF, at the engine side, you can look inside and see an orangish/copper colored rectangle of film inside. If it appears flat when used as a mirror to reflect light into your eyes, it's good. If it looks like the surface of a pool or the ocean, it's not.

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

chillia i checked it out it looked nice and flat i can send it to ya
whenever ya ready !

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

heres some pics











hope its what you need thanks for all ya help !

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

:edit:

That's a five wire unit... I can't use that. Our MAFs use a frequency signal... Those put out a voltage signal, similar to the MAP, that is useless to the 302 without a modified PROM...

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

oh ok this came of another car a 88 irocz 350. well good luck friend !

THEBEAST84

iTrader: (2)

well pulled my pulgs and the were covered in black soot and gas !
so iam getting new plugs next week should i get a dizzy wrench whit iam there ?
iam have a really hard time with the dizzy bolt any suggestions?

i waz told by a mechanic that i can loosen the serptine belt and turn balancer
to get to tdc if the dizzy is in the stock location and that theres no need to loosen the dizzy bolt bc the rotor just turns ?

can anyone shed light on this please ? i dont really wanna fup my engine bc it will be my dd again !