5215

iTrader: (2)

Gents,

Anyone have some close-up pics of the hose routing near the EGR and Throttle Body for a fuel injected 2.8 liter 85-ish Camaro? I have exhausted the search engine, GM service manual and the Haynes with failed attempts to locate any pics that would help.

Ideally some pics showing behind the alternator area and the hoses from the EGR side of the throttle body. Honestly, I'll take any pics that are close enough to show the locations/routing of the hoses (Any vacuum lines in there would also be a bonus!)

for any help with this one!

5215

iTrader: (2)

Bump

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

I followed the vacuum lines. Didn't see anything around the alternator. I'm assuming line "A" follows through to this point. I lose it part way through, but it's the only line there.

Edit: nadster is correct. I apologize,

• "A" does in fact go to the FPR and no where else.
  
• Line "B" is tied in with both the canister and the module on the passenger side with a "T" fitting I didn't see.

I've updated the images to take this into account. I only had to change the one image and the letter is oversized so it is obvious. Again I apologize for not seeing this earlier.

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

Followed it to the canister.

5215

iTrader: (2)

Hey Scorpner, THANK YOU VERY, VERY MUCH!!! You are the MAN! I really appreciate you taking your time to take those pics! I owe you big time. I knew a fellow TGO member could and would give me a hand with this seemingly simple issue.

I had the motor rebuilt in 2003 and haven't put more than 100 miles on the motor since. Runs killer after the rebuild but I wanted to dress it up after and do some custom stuff while I was at it. Time and cash goes way too quickly! I learned the lesson on marking or taking photos prior to dismantling it all....been so long I cannot remember how it all went. Long story short, thanks again!!!!!

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

No problem!
I've been in similar situations and was glad to be able to help.

nadster

Out of curiosity, is A also linked to the fuel pressure regulator, or is it B? Some shop 10 years ago ran some new house around there and I think they rigged it up funny. I notice that the 2.8 throttle has vac in port A, but only vac in B when the throttle is tipped slightly (which I suppose makes sence considering the canister and such).

If you'd like I can take pictures of it later. It's an 89 2.8 still for the most part all stock.

5125: I suppose you dislike the GM diagrams also? Nightmare looking at, and things cross over strangely.

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

Thank you for pointing this out. I overlooked a "T" fitting on line "B" that in fact went back over to the passenger side module. Line "A" goes directly to the FPR and ends there. Line "B" connects the canister, throttle body and the module on the passenger side. I updated one of the images to take this into account.

5215

iTrader: (2)

Hey Scorpner and Nadster,

Thanks to both you guys my stuff will be coming together nicely now. I appreciate all of the effort you both went to to help a fellow member out! Hopefully soon I will be able to post up some pics of my progress! I figure I can't afford a V8 so I might as well make my 2.8 run and look as clean as possible!

At this point I've had the V6 for so long I can't imagine parting ways with it. I would NEVER, EVER get the $$$$$ out of it that I have invested anyways.

Thanks a million guys!!! I'm sure this will help out many other V6 guys now and in the future. And yes NADSTER, I cannot stand GM's sad excuse for a vacuum diagram. If I followed that I would have about 20 "T" connections and who knows what else going on in there.

nadster

Awesome thanks! I have my routed correctly for once. The A and B for me were flipped. I have a T from A that also routes to the Smog AIR Pump thinger (in case yours has this). Was driving earlier and decided to see how 60-85mph did (usually sucks for me), seemed much better than before!

Thanks again!

5215

iTrader: (2)

Nadster:

If you don't mind, I would be interested in any info you can post or PM. If you have some time and don't mind sharing. This whole vacuum line routing has been a royal pain to figure out. I've been trying to get the timing figured out for the longest time and don't know if the vacuum lines are the cause or not of the crazy issue.

YOU ROCK MAN!

nadster

Yeah, they can be. As long as their all connected up, and what your not sure on at the time just cap/plug so you can run the engine with the best vaccum to set the timing.

Set ign timing as follows: (MPI/MPFI v6)
1) Make sure the car is at operating temp first.

2) Loosen the distributor clamp bolt just enough so you can rotate it (I keep my tight enough so the thing doesn't just sit and spin; basically tight enough I have to use some force to rotate it).

3) Pull the EST cable (on mine it's next to the vent-fan on the passenger side) and let it idle for about a minute before setting the timing. (make sure car is at operating temp)

4) With your timing gun, make sure base timing is set to 10deg-BTDC using the timing indication marks down by the crank on the front of the block (I took a white felt pen and put a visible line on 10deg so I can see it easier with the gun).

5) Once it's set, be sure to tighten the distributor bolt and double check the base timing again. Shut off the car. Reconnect the EST, and start the car. Should come down and idle nicely after a minute or so. Also would help to unplug the battery for a few minutes to let the computer reset for a relearn.

------------

That's pretty much it. I probably left a thing or two out, but you'll get it.

If the car is not even starting due to timing, you might be a tooth or two off on where you set the distributor. In that case you'll have to find top dead center for cyl #1 (left passenger side front of the engine), and then make sure the distrubutor rotor point is facing about 7 o'clock or so when you look from the center of the block facing toward the windshield.
Basically it should be on the plug contact that's closest to 7oclock or so. You'll see what I'm talking about by putting the cap over what I mean.



Good luck!

5215

iTrader: (2)

Dang NADSTER, you don't mess around when it comes to details! I appreciate the info for sure! I needed your help about 6 months ago. I ended up in the whole "won't start at all" after checking the fit of the Mallory dizzy! I got that figured out finally. I've got the dizzy out and the plenum off after smoothing and powder coating. Just added an AFPR and the Ignition Box. I'm kinda stuck in the middle of powder coating parts and putting it all back together. I may hit you up for more help once I get it all back together and try to set the timing again. Just thought of this.....when the motor was rebuilt years ago, it was bored .030 over. Would that for some crazy reason change the base timing degree? Like 10* to something else?

Thanks again!

nadster

Nah, I had a Cherokee with an AMC 2.5 (not the gm duke) that was overboard 30 thousands, and ignition timing stuff remained the same after. All the overbore does is do as the name implies. Slightly makes the diameter of the cylinder bore bigger. If anything did change it was that your 2.8 is now a smigit closer to 2.9L..