Carbon build up...
#1
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Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
Carbon build up...
What do you guys suggest to get rid of this crap??? I got a motor that is pushing 210 psi on the compression check, and it gets there very quickly. The service manual says taht it should be arouns 150 psi. I've heard in the past that Sea foam is the way to go, but I can't find it out here in Los Angeles? Any other fun forms to remove it???
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Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
Napa or Carquest carries Seafoam.
Or go to a GM dealer, and ask for their 'GM Top End Cleaner'
Otherwise, a wire brush works well, just don't do that on the pistons.
Or go to a GM dealer, and ask for their 'GM Top End Cleaner'
Otherwise, a wire brush works well, just don't do that on the pistons.
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Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
NAPA sells a fuel injection intake cleaning kit which is supposed to clear out everything from the throttle body to the chambers themselves. I have yet to try it, but I heard it works.
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Car: 91 Camaro
Engine: 3.1...not hardly stock
Transmission: 700r4....not stock either
Axle/Gears: 3.73
laeve it alone if its not lose and rattling around. it'll bump up your compression ratio a little and, on a N/A motor, more compression will help power. if you really want it cleaned out, what about the water method? spray a light mist into the intake.
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Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
well. the carbon build up has raised my reading on the compression gauge from 150 to 210 on every cylinder and I MUST run 91+octane boost for it not to ping. I've done everything short of actually removing the head, and everything else is within spec. I wouldn't mind so much, but having to run 91+a bottle of octane boost isn't good.
Also, I have already tried the water trick...didn't work. made a little bit of grey smoke, but nothing major. This engine is 20 years old and never been apart except for a valve adjustment, so it's tired.
p.s. this isn't a f-body motor, it's from a volvo, but I knew that you guys would have an answer for me.
Also, I have already tried the water trick...didn't work. made a little bit of grey smoke, but nothing major. This engine is 20 years old and never been apart except for a valve adjustment, so it's tired.
p.s. this isn't a f-body motor, it's from a volvo, but I knew that you guys would have an answer for me.
Last edited by 2_point8_boy; 12-08-2003 at 09:13 PM.
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Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Having a nice coolant leak at the head gasket works wonders too. It ruins the head so it has to be machined, but the engine internals are clean as a whistle on my dad's 2.2L Cavalier...
Other than that, the best I can say is the kit from NAPA.
Other than that, the best I can say is the kit from NAPA.
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#8
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What's easier?
Paying for octane booster & pouring it or doing the dirty work & fix the engine correctly?
IF an old Volvo from late 80's they run for quite a long time.
Paying for octane booster & pouring it or doing the dirty work & fix the engine correctly?
IF an old Volvo from late 80's they run for quite a long time.
#9
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Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
I got my can of Sea Foam from an advance auto. Just call around the auto parts stores, if no joy, call around the boat shops
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