GTA1990

iTrader: (1)

New engine (L31), same WC T5 but with a new clutch and pressure plate.. Shifted fine before. Feels notchy (sometimes not going into gear) and pressing the clutch pedal down doesn't really make a difference - this is all with the engine off

Getting ready to fire up and break in the new engine but just want to double check there isn't a clutch or related trans problem first. Have bled the clutch hydraulics and clutch arm travel seems about right (about 1.5 cm) and pedal feels good.

Was thinking of jacking up the rear and putting into gear and then with the clutch pedal pressed in, seeing if I can move the rear wheels by hand

thoughts welcome

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Not sure what that even means. But I'll address "not going into gear" since that at least has meaning.

A manual transmission has sleeves with teeth, that have to slide over gear features with teeth. If it's all sitting still, some of those teeth may align with each other, others may not. If they don't align, the one thing will have to push on the other, and with luck, rotate it enough that the teeth align. So, some degree of interference that way, is completely normal, expected, and unavoidable.

That said, it the clutch doesn't disengage (for example, if the throwout bearing is improperly installed onto the fork), then it will magnify this behavior, since now in addition to moving transmission guts to allow the teeth to engage, it has to overcome whatever resistance the clutch friction imposes on all the parts.

firebird-92

Not that it would matter much notchyness wise, but what oil you are using in the transmission?

GTA1990

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Yep difficult to get into gear. Has a short shifter aswel which I suppose wouldn’t help. Will be doing the mentioned clutch test next weekend to see if it’s grabbing with the pedal fully down

Has dexrom 3 atf in it. Store brand stuff

firebird-92

Try Red Line MTL or Red Line D4 ATF, i have tried both,
i personally prefer the MTL even tho i have the 5w30 tag on the transmission, but i like the feel that the MTL gives when using the transmission. Some T5 transmissions probably must have the dexron type oil, but on mine i don't care what the oil specs were back in the day, i have been using the MTL for years, but you might want to try the D4 ATF.

Both MTL and D4 ATF, they might not help with the notchyness, but overall feel and gear changes, should be improved, if not, you can always go back using the dexron oil that you're familiar with.

You can also send an e-mail to Red Line, and ask their recommendation for your T5 world class transmission.
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sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

2nd design T-5 (I HATE that 800s trendy PIT Team / Quality Circle / Employee Empowerment BUZZWORD crap that starts with W... I guess the Marketing Dept must have let their summer sophomore intern come up with that while they were all on vacation in Fiji) has the same friction material on the blocker rings that automatic transmission clutches have; therefore benefit GREATLY, if not outright NEED, ATF.

Doesn't really make a damn bit of difference what brand or version of Dexron any of that, to the matter at hand. Frod (Type F) fluid aka "shift kit in a bottle" makes them shift with a little more "authority" but it's a just barely noticeable difference, if any at all.

GTA1990

iTrader: (1)

coming back to this after months of battling first start / break in issues

long story short car initially did not go into gear when running and would grind if forced. Well, after weeks then months of battling high idles and pushing down the clutch for the various engine starts, it now goes into gear and clutch seems to grab when slowly lifting.

suspect was still some air in the lines that has just bled out. Anyway wanted to close to loop on this as similar threads usually end up with pulling the trans. Def worth double checking on the bleeding front!