zman1969

iTrader: (9)

I'm going to swap a t56 in my 90 from an auto and I read the T-56 swap thread so the mechanical isn't an issue, but not much was posted on the floor boot or the leather trim shift boot - would like some input and or pics of your conversion please?
(I know this could go in the interior section but thought since was trans related I'd post here)

scooter

iTrader: (11)

You need the floor shift (tunnel) boot to seal the outside air and you need the manual shifter plate, or cut out the PNRD123 portion of the auto shifter plate and figure out your own boot.
The floor shift boot and the manual shifter plate are both available reproduction from Hawks, or start looking in the classifieds for used ones

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Yes, Scooter is right, use a 4th Gen floor boot. Picture in post #317,,

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post5967792

zman1969

iTrader: (9)

Hey thanks Scooter and QT! I have the lower boot from 4th gen but wasn't sure what to do about top I'll look for a T5 Firebird shift plate, pedals - I'm going to look for 4th gen 6 cyl pedals as they do not have gas pedal attached (so I'm told) and should be found in a Pick N Pull for cheap.
looking at your build it made me think about the shifter is off-set required or just to center it? I think I have a T-56 Hurst billet shifter gathering dust and was hoping to use it. I'd like it to look factory and your 6 speed indicator fits there perfectly -Nice build BTW

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I never really gave that any thought. That's just how MGW makes their shifter. I suppose the handle is a little left-of-center in the console opening. It is a ridiculously short handle. I've considered having a longer one made.

Thank you for the compliment!

zman1969

iTrader: (9)

Ok you have me thinking so I went and dug it out nicer than I remember and its new I remember it was cheap like $80 so I couldn't pass it up wonder where off set will make it sit and is handle going to be visible at all from boot?
and Qwktrp your link made me go back and look at whole thread- built LS7? NICE! how's it run?

rburrow87

iTrader: (1)

Wow I the MGW shifter is pretty short!

I originally had a B&M (Precision?) shifter that came with my T56, but I ditched it because the NVH was excessive. Probably doesn't help that I went with a bronze shifter cup and bronze fork pads when I rebuilt it due to failed 1 and 2 paper synchronizers. Ended getting an old SLP shifter with a modified stock 4th gen stick (just shortened). It's not bad, but I want something with stronger centering springs and I've already done everything I can to the SLP's springs. Been looking at going with the MGW because it sounds like it fits the bill. Plus maybe since takes a round stick for a shifter, it should be possible to buy some round stock and bend/cut/weld/tap the perfect stick.

With a Spohn T56 crossmember and gen 1 SBC, the 4th gen shifters are off a little to the left and rear for me. Not enough that it runs into the shifter plate or anything though, just not centered if you stop and look at it. I do feel that it's a bit too close, as in too far towards the rear of the car. I ended up modifying the stock T56 stick a bit and tilted it forward and slightly right to center it and it's much better for me, but the rubber isolator makes it feel weird with the new angle.

For the shifter plate, I originally cut the old automatic one but I had a hard time attaching a boot to it because the area around the hole was so thin after cutting. The boot retainer I tried to make would randomly detach from below after a while, and would pretty much always require rebuilding if I had to take the shifter plate off for something. I'm sure it's possible to make happen, I just couldn't be bothered to continue messing with it. I wanted it to look clean and stock at first glance so I bought a new reproduction 5 speed plate and 6 speed indicator from Hawks and I'm much happier with the fit and finish and the fact that it's serviceable without having to repair it every time.

I also used a 4th gen lower boot. The ring where the screws go is metal so I just formed it to the 3rd gen floor and ran a few screws in.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

I just got a T56 lower shift boot to seal the car from the under-side, then cut the PRNDL out. But be-careful, that will make it very fragile.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Ohhhhhhh, that's a long read -- My apologies. That thread is so big even I won't read it any more. LOL!
First dyno session with LS7 is coming end of next week.

MGW has strong centering springs. No NVH at all -- as in none, nada, zero. I used to have a habit of wiggling a shifter to make sure that it is in neutral, but I had to kick that habit because the MGW won't move with light pressure.

Yes, the rod is just a straight piece of chromoly or maybe stainless. You can adjust the height by sliding it up and down in the clamp. Mine is as high as it can go. I'll probably have a shop machine another rod with 2" more length so I can adjust it to my liking. The shift pattern is very tight side-to-side, like shift-by-instinct kind of tight. Another reason I am interested to try a longer handle.

Ty92Z

iTrader: (11)

Is there something used to cover/seal the area circled in red or is it ok to leave it open?

rburrow87

iTrader: (1)

Good to hear! I've been trying to do searches to see what people think about the NVH, or if there was any, with the MGW but I couldn't really find a straight answer. And thanks for the video, that looks more centered than the B&M was, but maybe the stick being angled on the B&M instead of straight and just offset like the MGW made it look worse. Definitely a lot shorter throw too. Going to have to read through your build thread! Or at least skim through the pictures.

The B&M would do some freaky bone conduction sound like things sometimes. And I would get a ringing sound/sensation if my hand was on the shifter. Really wasn't out of control awful or anything, but too racecar and unpleasant to me.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

The shifter will probably sit further forward in most cars. My engine is set back from stock.

I should also clarify that my torque arm is not mounted to the transmission, and it's not even mounted to the trans crossmember. Torque arm is going to cause more vibration.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

On the Mustang, the tower sits high enough to cut the center of the boot, and the boot slips over the top of the shifter, so the open top of the shifter is inside the car.

Some of the stock and aftermarket shifters have a boot that covers the top of the shifter, but most of the modern billet shifters don't seem to.

rburrow87

iTrader: (1)

I, personally, would want to put a boot on it. Seems like it should have had one?

Ran across this on eBay, but I wonder if there's an alternate one with a slot instead of a round hole for that nice Hurst stick unless it's soft enough to conform:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/361427393761

zman1969

iTrader: (9)

now I'm thinking that the Hurst might not fit under 4th gen boot? I guess this may need to be figured out ?
well after looking back at this pic maybe not I also have a Hurst in my 69





HMM I think its same shifter LOL

Drew

iTrader: (58)

If it won't fit under, use the brand F solution.

Don't judge the Holey Rustang! It's on the project list, I'll get around to patching the holes someday.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

You can get that proper boot here
https://core-shifters.com/collections/hurst-dust-boots