BizJetTech

iTrader: (3)

Looking to remove the K member/engine/trans as a unit - For those of you that have done this.....has anyone measured
how high the front of the car needs to be in order to slide the K-member out with the engine and trans still bolted up to it ???
What did you use to raise the car that high and how did you support it ?? I'm thinking of buying a portable
2 post lift (https://www.maxjaxusa.com/ ) that I'm sure would work good but also looking at other solutions for raising the car up high enough......ideas???
This needs to be performed in my 2 car garage with no overhead hoist capabilities (but I do have 10 foot ceiling so that is not an issue)

Anyone with experience doing this please share your thoughts/ideas.......thanks

PaulyC

Ive never done it with a thirdgen but others yes (4th gens and front drive cars) where it is almost required and its a good amount that it needs to be lifted. Ive never actually measured it though since I have a 2 post and never ran into any lifting height restraints. I would guesstimate in the neighborhood of 36" or more depending on what kind of dolley you use under it. If you YouTube it I'm sure Ive seen other examples there.

thirdgen example: while I wouldn't recommend following this example of safety with a raised vehicle but you can get an idea of the height required to gain clearance.

Personally, I think I would be faster doing it the old fashioned way since the strut mounting style releases the front spring when you remove it from its mount = PITA, I think the steering linkage needs to come off altogether since is is mounted to the body and under the front of the engine which would interfere going down = PITA, the front brake lines etc. Then when its all out you still have to separate everything anyway. All that other crap you wouldn't have to monkey with otherwise. The way I see it, the biggest reason to come out the bottom is because later model vehicles were designed this way from the factory. The 4th gen for example, the things I mentioned are not an issue, front suspension comes off with a simple unbolting or and the rest will unplug and it comes out all in a neat package. Not so on thirdgens. I have done all these individually without the use of a lift and just a picker with no problems, I suppose if you were going to be replacing springs or some suspension and steering items at the same time, maybe I would consider it, but probably not. Again, just my opinion and somebody else may chime in and say how much better and easy it is.

BizJetTech

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the info - I'm going to be installing a tubular K member, coil overs or weight jacks, etc, and doing some engine work -
so It makes more sense to remove it as a complete unit as I am replacing the entire front suspension and more.

Tombowman89

This was an idea I came up a few years back.The only thing is I wish I would’ve made it taller, but it works really well “especially with headers installed. Bolts to the floor Jack and you use the 2 post lift in conjunction. I can hard mount the engine and tranny in 5 minutes by myself. The photos aren’t in order, feel free to use the idea.

daferris

iTrader: (8)

Tips to make it easier and faster.
leave struts connected and disconnect the a arm pivot bolts to get the spring out.

Lower car to put a 4 wheel movers dolly under the motor and trans then unbolt the crossmember and k member.

I use as 2 post lift now . But have done it using a engine hoist to lift the front of car off the motor. To do it that way you need to crib up the rear tires about a foot.

Tombowman89

I only shared because someone said the were doing suspension upgrades in addition to engine work. The coil spring and strut still need to be removed for this process and they are still dangerous to deal with.