George Klass

Hey guys, I'm very discouraged. Maybe someone had some advice.

The car has 88,xxx kms. Sat for 13 years until back on the road last July. The car had a very easy life before and was never abused.

It was shifting fine but had a buzzing noise during idle in R, OD and D. 1 and 2 were mostly silent. I was thinking maybe a pressure issue so thought it would be best to start by changing the filter. Lo and behold when we dropped the pan the filter wasn't even attached!! It had a Sealer Power logo on it so I'm assuming it's the original? The old oil didn't smell burnt, just looked old. Still was kinda red. I can only assume what was on the magnet was normal. Really should have snapped a pic.

I used a new WIX filter and treated her to a new stock pan lol. I received some very stressful news while finishing up the job, got distracted and somehow put 5 liters of oil in the trans. Oops. Drove the car about 15 kms and everything felt fine. After a few hours I jumped back in noticed a flare from 2-3. Drove the next morning around the block a few times and it felt fine.

I drained about 2 liters and drove around to warm it up a bit. Felt ok. I added another liter and went for a long cruise. The flare came back. Once really warm it was a tad over the crosshatch so I drained a little more this morning.

COLD everything felt fine but once the temp got up the flare is back. It doesn't seem to do it under moderate acceleration (over 2K shifting). Around 1500 - 1800 ish RPM it's there.

I don't want to mess with anything else right now. I thought of adjusting the TV cable but it shifted fine before so I'm wary. Not sure how to proceed. Did the overfill do something? Was my trans doomed and I just started the process earlier? Can take a video if needed!!

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!

NowhereFast

3-4 clutches are going out. They will go out quick too. You may have a flare now, but expect it to neutralize when going into third within a few hundred miles, if not less.

Pro Built Automatics

If the bottom of the pan was clean (no clutch material all over the bottom of the pan), then check the TV cable to make sure that it is tight at WOT. If it is and the oil level is fine, I would at least install the Corvette servo. This will improve the 2-3 shift as it is the accumulator for third gear. It will also firm up the 1-2 shift too. You could go also with the larger boost valves here, as this will help keep the transmission living longer under harder driving. Let me know if I can be of help. Anytime it flares, get out of the throttle immediately. What brand was the new filter? It will be stamped on it, a name or symbol.

George Klass

The filter is a WIX. I'll check the TV cable tomorrow and report. I'll shoot you a PM and I will definitely place an order soon for some stuff. Thanks!


I sure hope not!

George Klass

BUMP for more issues. Need advice

bought the corvette servo but haven't had a chance to install.

There is now a clunk sometimes on the 2-3 shift. It started the day after I changed the rear control arms (j&m polyball)

the night I installed them I did a quick launch with my whopping 175 hp. Held the brake, brought up the revs for 2 seconds and punched it to about 40 mph.

so the next morning felt the 2-3 clunk sometimes. If I put the car in 1st or 2nd bring up the revs let's say to 2K and let go itll clunk then clunk again on acceleration.

the trans mount was changed a few months ago with a Napa piece. I doubt it broke but you never know.

now this morning I started the car, let it idle for 3p seconds. For whatever reason I decided to put it in 2nd and it was violent to the point the tires chirped. Wtf put it neutral then 2nd brake pushed all the way did it again. Tried neutral to od was mild.

wtf is going on lol?

I have an energy suspension torque arm bushing and spicer 5-795x u joints waiting to install next.

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately it probably will need to be torn down or replaced. My 86 sat for 11 years and about 4,000 miles into driving it the input drum snap ring lugs sheared off and it got progressively worse - after a few hundred miles it wouldn't hardly move while in gear - almost felt like it had the brakes applied. These transmissions don't like to sit around it seems. All the seals probably dried up and in a transmission the seals are everything - they are hydraulically controlled and when the seals dry up and harden from exposure to oxygen (the oil drains off them over time) the buna-n turns to plastic and doesn't seal. This is followed shortly by slipping, excessive heat, metal fatigue, and ultimately failure. It really has nothing to do with the mileage - you just can't expect gaskets and seals from that era to last under those conditions. The engine in my car was fine - except for the leaks from all the gaskets (including valve stem seals) and the bad water pump that led to it's being parked in the first place. But internally the engine doesn't rely on rubber for it's functions.

GD

George Klass

I really hope that's not the case sighhh. Engine seems to be ok, just the valve stems give a quick puff on startup.

the slipping only started after the fluid change. For sure I just accelerated the unavoidable end but felt I had to drop the pan to see what's up in there.

I'm going to do the vette servo, torque arm bushing and u joints by next weekend and cross my fingers. Maybe go full band aid and add a bottle of lucas transmission additive too lol.

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

The lip seals on the pistons, etc inside the trans won't be in any better shape than the valve stem seals but are actually critical to operation, unlike the valve stem seals which are pretty much optional.

Buna-N, or Nitrile rubber, is really just natural rubber. Very little different than chewing gum with some additives. ALL the seals in the trans are Nitrile and oxygen/age ensures that after 15 years of sitting idle they are garbage. Nothing is going to fix that but replacement. The more it's driven, up to failure, the more damage to hard parts will take place.

GD

George Klass

Thanks for all your input sir. I friend of mine referred me to a guy that's built a few transmissions for him. If it doesn't rain Friday I'm going to take a drive and get an estimate for a rebuild.

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

Fortunately a stock rebuild is pretty inexpensive in the scheme of automotive repairs. Probably about 4 hours to R&R it, and maybe $800 for rebuild if you get a good deal. More if you want heavy duty components of course. So maybe $1200 on the lower end, ranging up to several thousand if you want a bunch of sonax and transgo parts in there.

GD

George Klass

Yeah, I'm hoping r&r maybe $1500ish (cdn) I'll see what he says. I just something to last a while and hold MAX 300hp (probably won't even get that high)