fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I have a Hughes TH350 35-2dr transmission, a PTC billet 9.5" 5k stall.

Both are brand new as of a few months ago and havent been installed yet Im at a loss on what fluid to use on these. I would think that type F would be a better fluid to use for this but figured i would ask arround and see what feedback there is on the issue. Thanks. I tried to contact hughes but have yet to get a call back.

While im on the subject how many of you guys run PTC converters? Do you like them? What slip percent do you see at the top end of the track? Im excited to see how it performs next spring. I ended up getting the more exspencive on in hopes that the slip at the top end of the track is better. Hopefully this combo along with a few other things gets me into the 10s finally.

Thanks

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

Yes.. type F would be the best for street and strip. the cost for the stuff now is about $20 less then the TCI or B&M. fluid sold in the gal Jugs..(you will need 3 gal) shop for the Pennzoil Type F. its got the same make up as the B&M fluid. just red.. don't know if the B&M stuff is still blue.

its all I have used in the past....todays stuff(tci/Royal purple/B&M) might be slightly better(I DONT SEE IT) but ya cant get it just anyplace..like ya can Type F
and on a side note...ya can add type F to any trany in a pinch..(top off)

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ok thanks so much for the advice!

Pro Built Automatics

DO NOT use type F in the TH350 or any other GM unit. The last time type F was required in a transmission was 1977 - 1978 when asbestos was still being used in the clutches. Type F has 14% - 17% less holding power on the dynamic type of clutch (clutches that come on during a shift) than Dexron type oils. This is according to the engineers at Borg Warner. TransGo will tell you the same thing. The Dexron type oils have a smoother apply throughout the clutch apply, and not a tail up (bump at the end of the shift) type of shift when using type F oil.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Hughes finally contacted me and reccomend their hughes trans fluid. Street strip synthetic type f. But he said it's new and not wide sold ad it was just released? So he also reccomend type f for use in their transmissions. Which I have a 35-2dr

Since this is a 90 percent drag car only.

Thoughts?
I didn't even know hughes sold trans fluid.....

http://www.competitionplus.com/drag-racing/new-products/new-xtreme-transmission-fluid-from-hughes

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Regular atf dexron stuff or try john deere tractor fluid if its too loose for you. Tractor fluid tightens it up but its clear, so add 2 quarts of atf to color it

Its nice to use what the trans builder says, but ofcourse they are gonna push their own product on you

Pro Built Automatics

A mixture of tractor oil and Dexron can help the planetaries in the 700R4/4L60E live longer under hard use..

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

just look up whats in the fluid..mineral base oil...not synthetic.its the same thing as the B&M trick shift..most of us drag race guys want a good firm shft.. the B&M was the first fluid to come out and say it...back in the 80's it was type F with Blue Dye. its the same today...
but look at it this way...did GM put your trany together and make the clutches in it?
or did a aftermarket manufacturer make the trany..and if so...ask them....what is best for you trans....after all its not stock..right.

if ya want good no slip shifts I can tell you from 80s and the 90s what us drag race guys used.and still do..and worked...what held up the best...
hell even B&M still sells it..but us guys who wanted to save a Buck...do the Type F thing....unless you have to have the Blue Dye..


and I'm sure it's ok to run 20/50 oil in your GM v8 on a hot day at the track with a 600 hp 8 QT eng...even if they make full synthetic 10/30 oil..even if GM tells you that's what you should be using....just sayn...

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Good point.

Hughes said type f so that's what's going in it.

redneckjoe

i've been using type f for 25+ years. no complaints here. it's always been my understanding that it has more anti-foaming agents.

i suppose it's like asking, "what's the best oil out there?" you'll get 100 different responses.

but you can't argue against using what the builder recommends. in fact it could void any warranty you might have by not using they're recommended fluid?

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

also on a side note:

Do Not Add anything to it...No ricky race goofy stuff/OR?(never stop leak not even 1 drop)!... just pure old Type F. and a good cooler..
even with a street driven hot rod (4000 stall) you should never see a temp over 130* it should always be cherry red in color...always.

keep it cool it will see a long life... they are only as strong as the weakest part.. add lots of power and you will see what that part is..
like a eng.. put into it. what you want out of it..

make it strong..keep it simple..

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Unless you have a huge cooler than will not happen. And by huge i mean bigger than my twin b&m bar and plate 8x11" coolers

I see 150-170 normal driving. 220-250 after a pass including trans brake use and burnout

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

last year my temps under normal driving was 140-160 degrees on ave. 3500 stall th350 3.23 gear. At the track it would get up to about 180-190 at the return road.

Now it'll have a 5k stall on it but I got a larger cooler this year. The one I had before was ok. But I wanted to up the size because of the converter stall. Even though the new ptc will probly be more efficient even at street speeds compared to the 3500 freakshow I had before.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

get a larger cooler.. bypass rad. ya want to keep it as cool as ya can... to keep the fluid looking cheery red...the fluid can take the heat for short times..keep an eye on the temps and color..if it starts to go darker AT all..swap out the fluid for fresh..

this is a start
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Derale-15900...lVcrtT&vxp=mtr

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Like i said i have TWO of those with a fan and it still isnt enough to keep it under 150. 150-180 is normal anyway so no point in tryin to keep it that cool

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

so you have 2 of these with a single fan?
as each one comes with a fan. and 8an fitting and is a 16 pass cooler... you have other problems if it still over 150 degrees...
That fluid is getting the s*it Beat out of it ...
Running 11s and 10.50s..mine never gets to 150*..