tjvz28

hello I can buy a 1995 trans am with 6 speed t56 for 1500 is this worth for my swap.

Im going from 700r4 in 91 Camaro 350
I think yes
or I buy just the t56 and cost 800

JacobIroc

You can buy the whole car for $1500? That's what I would do. Sell the parts off and probably walk out with a free t56. You need everything that is related to the t56 if you don't buy the whole car..

t56
clutch && pressure plate
flywheel
hydraulics
shifter
pedals possibly

the list goes on.. lol

Thumpinblur84

Ok so I have a 350 out of a 78 vette with a t5 in my car. Do I still need to change flywheel and clutch set? Can I still use the t5 bell housing or go to the t56?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Buy the whole car, swap the whole drivetrain. The LT1 is a better platform and most anything done to your SBC will transfer over. Its also a simple swap. Custom wiring, a swap tube and custom fuel lines

Its a generic 2pc RMS SBC, so you need an 82-85 flywheel for the T5 setup or an aftermarket flywheel for the T56. T5 vs T56 bellhousing are worlds apart and not interchangeable. The T56 uses a unique pull style PP, so the T5 clutch components are out

galletti

Wouldn't this McLeod Manual Transmission Adapter 8-207 allow him to use an LS1 T56 to bolt on to a T5 bell housing. Granted, this is from a 1st gen site but I think it applies to his case.

"If you’re starting from scratch and already have a 3 or 4 speed manual transmission in the car, the easiest and cleanest way to swap a T56 into a first generation Camaro behind a traditional BBC/SBC is as follows: You will need an LS1 T56, the McLeod adapter kit (1/2” thick adapter plate that goes between the transmission and the bellhousing, extended pilot bushing, and “collar” on which the throwout bearing rides – McLeod Part No. 8207 available, for example, at http://store.summitracing.com/partde...700+400374+429 4812239+4294856873+115&autoview=sku), a transmission cross member (I like the ATS adjustable crossmember available at http://www.t56kit.com/main.html), a shortened balanced driveshaft (which you can have made up locally), and an electronic speedometer or an electronic to mechanical converter such as Cable X (available at http://www.gaugeguys.com/cablex.htm, among others). "

alloy

iTrader: (16)

You can also have your tail housing converted to drive a cable speedometer for less than a cable-x costs.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-8-207/overview/
The adapter does allow a LS1 T56 to be used on an older bellhousing. Only benefit I see from this is if you have an aftermarket scattershield and a stout 26 sp clutch and all the hydraulics/linkages figured out already. Not worth it

Aftermarket flywheel for 2pc RMS SBC, complete LT1 T56, clutch and hydraulic package

Half the stuff in that list is to address the LS1 T56 having a longer input shaft and the HTOB is completely ignored, so why bother using the LS1 T56 in the first place?

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

The problem with these routes is you dont get to keep the cost savings of reusing a factory torque arm and torque arm mount and a factory driveshaft. You go two steps forward and two steps back.

The simplest way is to just use an LT1 T56. Hydros are going to be an (solvable) issue regardless, but at least with an LT1 T56 it fits in the car almost exactly the same as it would in a fourth gen. Just need a new crossmember and to address the hydraulics. Other than taht it's all factory parts, which helps if anything breaks too.

galletti

Pocket:

This is all true. The only reason I was looking into it was because I hope to go LS1/T56 at some point but I can't do it all at one shot. So I thought I could get a used LS1 T56 with all needed parts for about $1200 for sale locally and keep the parts I don't need until I can get the LS1. If I understand correctly, putting that in with the McLeod part referred to above, aftermarket torque arm, mount, and an adjustable cross member, would allow me to later swap in the LS1 with no further changes. Considering the aftermarket 2pc RMS flywheel for the T56 is over $500, I don't think the cost difference would be too much in the long run and you end up with better parts.
Please tell me if I'm missing something here since I'm still not fully versed on the hydraulics issues for either choice.

galletti

I just re-read the thread and I realized the op never mentioned anything about an LS T56. Sorry to have butted in. In general, this link has a step by step that should address the op's question:
http://www.skulte.com/T56.html