Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

I am going to be getting my 9" stuff together... where is a good affordable place to order a 9" housing for my ride? I am going to be putting 12" 4th gen brakes on the rear, and the guys at the shop where I keep my car will build the center section for the cost of parts, and install it for me while I am deployed.

So I think piecing it together will be cheaper in my case. Where is a good place to buy the housing? I am looking to get one ordered in the next week or two.

Tony V

iTrader: (5)

http://www.quickperformance.com/QP-G...xles_p_40.html

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

Awesome. Is it work it to get the fabricated housing center piece? Also, what is a common axle spline count? I am looking to be putting down 420ish to the wheels, and maybe a 100 shot if I get a bit crazy.

31 spline the way to go? Also, what gear ration? I am running a 95 LT1 T56 with 275/40r17 wheel, and will probably run Et Streets or some sort of slick at the track. Are 3.89 a pretty safe bet? I do take the car on long drives and drive it often.

AlkyIROC

www.spohn.net He's also a TGO Sponsor.

Ford normally uses 28 or 31 spline axles. I wouldn't recommend 28 spline even for a street car. Using 31 spline axles means it's easier to build a factory center section. Depending on your power output, it would probably be all you need. A simple upgrade to 33 spline is possible but if you upgrade to 35 spline axles, you're also looking at a lot more aftermarket parts to go with them.

I only use 31 spline axles but with a 1.76 powerglide, I don't get as much torque multiplication as a 3 or 4 speed even with my BBC so I don't need the larger axles although an upgrade to 33 spline axles may be in the near future.

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

I'm looking to be putting out around 400rwhp, and maybe toss in a 100 shot if I get bored.

Is the fabricated housing center piece worth it for a 100 bucks more?

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

Anyone have an answer on the housing?

AlkyIROC

Get what you can afford. I still use a housing from a 1970 F100

My diff is narrowed. It's only 45" from axle flange to axle flange

LB9GTA

iTrader: (1)

I got the QP ford 9" with 35 spline axles.

I bought it way stronger than I need right now , so it'll never break in the future when I get alot more HP.

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

What is a good posi to use? I am looking at the Trac-loc for the price, but the trutrac looks much better...

Podium

iTrader: (2)

Wow thats a good price! How does the torque arm work?

Podium

iTrader: (2)

Nevermind, I see it now. Thats kind of weird

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Might want to look around at reviews for Quick Performance. There has been issues with the Tq Arm bracket. I emailed them awhile back, but they said they weren't doing reallocation brackets at the time.

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

Are you running a stock torque arm? Also, what type of posi are you running?

Is a true-trac much better than a Trac-loc?

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I have a Moser housing and axle package rearend. Been in the car for 10plus years..

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

Check out Midwest Chassis. I'm probably going to go with their Fab 9.

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

I looked into them, and they look to be significantly more than the QP rear. Considering the car doesn't really make enough power to really justify an expensive 9", I am going to have a hard time dropping the coin. It's just 10 bolts suck and the next step up is a 9"/12 bolt.

I am trying to keep the 9" under 2k... The gears/posi will be installed for the cost of parts. So I am trying to keep the cost of the housing/axles under $1300... The midwest fab requires a special torque arm...

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Midwest has been having quite a few issues lately as well. Do some looking around about them. Its nice stuff, if you get it all done correctly before you retire.
They are less than 2hrs away from me and I won't use them anymore. They tried 3 projects for me, one was good, 2nd was done wrong and we had to take it back to be fixed, 3rd was there almost 2yrs and he wouldn't do it after he kept giving excuses as to Y they weren't done. (building me 20 sets of subframe connectors)

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

I was reading about vibrations from someone with a Moser 9". Does anyone know if it is just the housing causing the issue? Or is that going to be a possible universal 9" thing? I plan on DDing the car, so if that is the case, maybe I should go with a 12 Bolt. I heard that it is common for 12 Bolt rears to develope a hum/whining noise on stick cars, which is why I would like to go 9".

Anyone have any suggestions? I am still leaning towards the QP 9" housing at this time. I did look into the Moser though...

88gunmetalgta

iTrader: (1)

Are you referring to one member who broke his torque arm rod end while running the qp housing and a bmr tq arm? If you run the qp housing in combination with an adjustable torque arm, you are adding another link in the middle of the torque arm that will allow the torque arm to twist and become side loaded. If you run the qp housing, all you have to do is run a cheaper, non adjustable torque arm, and you won't have a problem with it.

88gunmetalgta

iTrader: (1)

I will be running a Strange housing and 35 spline axles, with RaceCraft brackets. Its more of a hands on approach, but I think its the cheapest route that meets all my requirements.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Maybe that was it. I already have a first design slider spohn tq arm tho.

I have heard some people complaining about heat treating on Moser axles, but those were from high HP cars. Like the ones making 1000+ HP.

I think when I go with a replacement I will go with a s60. About 20 lbs heavier but weight of s not a big concern.

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

I have been talking back and forth with Mike at QuickPerformance, and he was saying that they have changed their torque arm mount to solid rod ends. Before they were using pivoting heim joints and from what I understand, that was what was causing the torque arm flex. He was also saying that they weld in LCARBs on all their housings. I think I am going to PM a few people running these before I pull the trigger. As of now, I think this will be the route I am going to go.

DeltaElite121

talk to Bob @ Brute Speed. He's also a great guy and very competitive in pricing.

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

I am going to think about it a bit, but I like the fact that I am not going to be needing an adjustable torque arm going through QP... They also already include the fill/drain plugs so I save $70 there as well. I'll PM the guys who have QP rear's and see what they say. There is a TON of info on Moser on here already.

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

After getting a PM back from a guy with a QP rear, I think I might talk to Bob and see what he can do for me.

What do you all suggest for with the bearings? Do you suggest going with a new style sealed ford bearing or the sealed GM flush bearings? It just requires a different bracket for the brakes correct?

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

This is from a few years back when I was looking for a rearend. Eventually got a 10 bolt on trade.

Here's reply back from QP at the time:The GM flush mount ends will only work with the factory rear disc brakes from a 4th Gen. 93-02 F-body.

I can put Billet "big new ford" bearing ends on a housing for you, no problem. I just need to know what brake offset you need or, more simply, what the B dimension needs to be machined to on your axles. If this is incorrect, your calipers and rotors will not properly line up.

Our housing does not come with provisions for brake line mounting. We will send the housing bare metal and it will be up to you how you wish to retain your brake lines.

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

Just spoke with Bob at Brute Force... Real nice guy. I am going to shoot him an email with my car specs and see what he can do for me. I'll keep everyone posted.

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

I ended up ordering a Moser 9" from Bob at Brutespeed. Great guy to deal with!

Now I have a few questions. I picked up a used 9" 3rd member setup with Trac-Loc, 31 spline, and 4.11 gears for $450 shipped. After doing some research, it seems I should upgrade the 3rd member case, and Pinion support. I was looking at going with a Yukon Aluminum case with the 3.06 bearings. What should I go with for the pinion support? I am trying to keep this budget close to 2k complete.

Does anyone think I should just rebuild the trac-loc and run it? At this point I almost feel I should have just bought all new stuff since all I can really reuse with the Yukon case is the gears and Trac-loc.

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

Anyone know the length for the Driveshaft I will need to run? I am going to be ordering one...

Ron U.S.M.C.

I document most of my projects with photos for future reference and posting them on this site for other members.

I would love to see photos of the pieces/parts and build as you go.

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

I documented my T56 swap, but I won't be doing the install this time. I am having my shop get the car ready to possibly take to england.

Jonesyfxr

iTrader: (2)

^^^^These guys are great!^^^^

I almost went with them but fell into a deal on a local guy who builds them.



One thing to know, if you plan on running those brakes with a 15" rim, the caliper won't clear your rim. Ask how I know? Cuz those calipers are from a SS Camaro. I had to Ron a smaller rotor, one off a 90 S10 four wheel drive front end.



Here's my pinion support. This has all Moser internals along with 40 spline axles, I know over kill.......hey, the price was right!

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

I ended up going Yukon aluminum 3rd member, with a trac-loc.