t56's: LS1 vs LT1
#51
Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 467
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 98 Vortec 350 LT1 Cam w/ TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3:27
Re: t56's: LS1 vs LT1
Just wanted to add that on the factory 5 spd and cruise equipped cars there was a switch on the clutch much like the brake switch. This is so the cruise will disengage when the clutch is depressed. On the factory car the clutch and brake switches were wired in line with each other. So if either one broke the circuit cruise was shut off. I would make sure this works if you use cruise as cruise + clutch released can = disaster.
3rd gens use both electrical and vacuum dumps for cruise release. The primary is electrical and if that fails there is the vacuum dump. However only the brake has the vacuum dump
As for clutch safety switch mine is bypassed, I was taught the old school way to shake the shifter in neutral before starting. Plus it is less wear on the thrust bearing in the motor on the crank not having clutch pressure against it on startup.
Also as far as switch design only the early 3rd gens had the white switch. Later years got the same switch as found on 4th gen pedals.
3rd gens use both electrical and vacuum dumps for cruise release. The primary is electrical and if that fails there is the vacuum dump. However only the brake has the vacuum dump
As for clutch safety switch mine is bypassed, I was taught the old school way to shake the shifter in neutral before starting. Plus it is less wear on the thrust bearing in the motor on the crank not having clutch pressure against it on startup.
Also as far as switch design only the early 3rd gens had the white switch. Later years got the same switch as found on 4th gen pedals.
#52
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Salt Lake
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Re: t56's: LS1 vs LT1
Thank You for posting this.
Last edited by Keoman; 04-25-2013 at 02:46 PM.
#53
#54
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Milwaukee, WI ; San Bernardino, CA
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 will be LSX eventually
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner
Re: t56's: LS1 vs LT1
how is the swap going? Just blew up my trans and am looking to do the same thing. Found a lot of answers to my questions in this thread!
#55
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Salt Lake
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Re: t56's: LS1 vs LT1
The swap went great!! Took 2 days to complete everything from very start to finish but I had access to a lift to remove the 700r4.
Defiantly the best mod I have done to my car. Just took a trip to a town near vegas to ride my bike over memorial weekend and had ZERO problems with the trans.
Avg MPG was around 26 which was just a + to how awesome the car feels now.
There are a couple important things I never came across in other threads so I posted this in the t56 swap thread: (Lots of answers to common questions in there)
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ap-thread.html
Got my swap done in 2 days. Thanks for the write up, always makes things easier when you know where to get the answers right away.
Ended up at $2389 with new hydraulics, clutch kit and flywheel. Trans was $1063 at the pic'n'pull. Alloy (aka Dan) also converted my tail housing to mech speedo and it works great.
One thing I noticed is that the factory t56 mount and the factory 700r4 mount are different heights. You need to ask the manufacturer of your cross member, but hawks told me that they designed their long tube xmember for the factory t56 mount. It is about 1/4" - 1/2" shorter than the 700r4 mount. It actually made the trans sit weird in the car so I took it out and compared them, sure enough, they were different. I am using the stock rubber mount for now. Will change soon.
For the cruise control, I got a spare vacuum switch from another thirdgen at the JY and put a "T" on the vacuum line and wired them in series. Works like a charm.
I used this method and it worked great. I had to take the spades to the bench grinder to shorten the width a bit but all turned out well.
I used a 6.5" short shift stick. Works fantastic. Had to shim the shifter over about 1 1/2" to get it centered in the console hole.
I cut 1 1/2" turns from the reverse solenoid spring starting from the very end of the coil and it wasn't enough. I am going to disassemble it one more time and cut another full turn out.
Pics
Cant remember bolt diameter/thread count but they are 1 1/2" long, worked great with 8 washers.
Factory lower shift boot
Had to fold the upper boot down because of the short stick. Doesn't look bad, IMO.
Defiantly the best mod I have done to my car. Just took a trip to a town near vegas to ride my bike over memorial weekend and had ZERO problems with the trans.
Avg MPG was around 26 which was just a + to how awesome the car feels now.
There are a couple important things I never came across in other threads so I posted this in the t56 swap thread: (Lots of answers to common questions in there)
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ap-thread.html
Got my swap done in 2 days. Thanks for the write up, always makes things easier when you know where to get the answers right away.
Ended up at $2389 with new hydraulics, clutch kit and flywheel. Trans was $1063 at the pic'n'pull. Alloy (aka Dan) also converted my tail housing to mech speedo and it works great.
One thing I noticed is that the factory t56 mount and the factory 700r4 mount are different heights. You need to ask the manufacturer of your cross member, but hawks told me that they designed their long tube xmember for the factory t56 mount. It is about 1/4" - 1/2" shorter than the 700r4 mount. It actually made the trans sit weird in the car so I took it out and compared them, sure enough, they were different. I am using the stock rubber mount for now. Will change soon.
For the cruise control, I got a spare vacuum switch from another thirdgen at the JY and put a "T" on the vacuum line and wired them in series. Works like a charm.
I used a 6.5" short shift stick. Works fantastic. Had to shim the shifter over about 1 1/2" to get it centered in the console hole.
I cut 1 1/2" turns from the reverse solenoid spring starting from the very end of the coil and it wasn't enough. I am going to disassemble it one more time and cut another full turn out.
Pics
Cant remember bolt diameter/thread count but they are 1 1/2" long, worked great with 8 washers.
Factory lower shift boot
Had to fold the upper boot down because of the short stick. Doesn't look bad, IMO.
#56
Supreme Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego, California For Now
Posts: 2,379
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
10 Posts
Car: 88 Formula, 90 Iroc RIP, 92 RS Sold
Engine: 305 to 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt
Re: t56's: LS1 vs LT1
Nice to hear lol its a totally different beast crazy how just a trans swap changes the way it feels
might not be faster but it feels like it and feels alot more sportier and fun
might not be faster but it feels like it and feels alot more sportier and fun
#57
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Salt Lake
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Re: t56's: LS1 vs LT1
Agreed!
Time to save some coin for the engine LOL
that might be a while
Time to save some coin for the engine LOL
that might be a while
#58
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Re: t56's: LS1 vs LT1
Manual be it T5 or T56 totally changes the way the car feels from an automatic. Throttle input is so much more direct and responsive.
I now do not own a single automatic car because I'm just that against auto's for me. People say manuals are a pain in traffic, but really they aren't.
I now do not own a single automatic car because I'm just that against auto's for me. People say manuals are a pain in traffic, but really they aren't.
#59
Supreme Member
iTrader: (4)
Re: t56's: LS1 vs LT1
The OEM steel strapped handle or a Hurst splined connection are the way to go. Pro-5.0 wobbles around if the bolts loosen as well.
#60
Supreme Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego, California For Now
Posts: 2,379
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
10 Posts
Car: 88 Formula, 90 Iroc RIP, 92 RS Sold
Engine: 305 to 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt
Re: t56's: LS1 vs LT1
I would just upgrade intake and cam and heads if you really want to get into it lol in the upper rpm levels
unless its los angeles traffic then you dont know the real pain in traffic lol
Top 5 traffic cities
1 Los Angeles
2 Honolulu
3 San Francisco
4 Austin
5 New york
Manual be it T5 or T56 totally changes the way the car feels from an automatic. Throttle input is so much more direct and responsive.
I now do not own a single automatic car because I'm just that against auto's for me. People say manuals are a pain in traffic, but really they aren't.
I now do not own a single automatic car because I'm just that against auto's for me. People say manuals are a pain in traffic, but really they aren't.
Top 5 traffic cities
1 Los Angeles
2 Honolulu
3 San Francisco
4 Austin
5 New york
#62
Supreme Member
iTrader: (4)
Re: t56's: LS1 vs LT1
Leaving the washer stack and locktiting it would be the same as throwing a temper tantrum and screaming at the top of your lungs "I WANNA GIVE CAMARO OWNERS A BAD NAME."
Or a good way to give the next owner of the car a really solid reason to at the work performed.
Let's not abuse the word fix in the future.
#63
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Salt Lake
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Re: t56's: LS1 vs LT1
Haha I knew I should have never posted that picture. Knew for sure it was gonna rub someone the wrong way.
I did loctite the bolts... if anyone cares.
There wont ever be a "next owner" as long as I'm around.
By the time that "setup" wears out I'll have one of these anyways.
I did loctite the bolts... if anyone cares.
There wont ever be a "next owner" as long as I'm around.
By the time that "setup" wears out I'll have one of these anyways.
#65
Supreme Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego, California For Now
Posts: 2,379
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
10 Posts
Car: 88 Formula, 90 Iroc RIP, 92 RS Sold
Engine: 305 to 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt
Re: t56's: LS1 vs LT1
im no rich guy..military pay isnt that good either and compared to my civilian counter parts and i do more than work pay could be alot much better
most stuff i get is thru trading, selling and thirdparty used stuff thats
as for your shifter what are you planning to run pro 5.0 , Hurst, Mgw
i had pro 5.0 very notchy and you def know when you in gear or not i wouldnt say its the best shifter out of the 3 as i havent really tested all 3
but i like the postive feel
#66
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Salt Lake
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Re: t56's: LS1 vs LT1
I have heard/read tons of great things about the MGW i posted above. It'll either be that or the Pro5.0 in the future. I guess cost will have a factor also but either way, if I get one and don't like it, I'll switch.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mygta87
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Wanted
0
09-14-2015 10:36 PM
1992 Trans Am
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
1
08-08-2015 08:16 PM