S_Johnson

So, I just finished my t56 swap (from 700R4), and I have a couple of questions.

A: It has a super aggressive clutch kit, and it chatters REALLY bad on take off, like, the car shakes... I've heard this is an issue with HP clutch kits, is there anything I can do to minimize the issue? (I have a hood scoop, and the shaking is gonna shake the thing OFF I swear... not to mention, it looks STUPID when it does that...)

B: The syncros into 2nd appear to be totally worn out. Like, shifting into 2nd is a VERY slow process, and is hard to do without "double clutching" and equalizing engine speed.

Is there anything I can do to make this at least a little better? It's going to be a while until I can actually replace all the syncros (I'm about to move to a new state...), and I'm worried about causing damage to 2nd gear in the meantime.

I've heard of people having really good luck running GM Syncromesh oil, or "Castrol Syntorq Sythentic," in order to get smoother shifts.

I'm wondering, will that at least make it a little better? I know nothing I do will FIX the problem, but I just want to make it shift a LITTLE smoother, until I can pull it apart and replace all the syncros.


Thanks!

S_Johnson

Wow... I don't think I've ever gotten ZERO replies on thirdgen before... Does my thread smell??

dellman83Z

iTrader: (9)

A: I am assuming its a new clutch and a turned flywheel, so some chatter is normal and will get better as it gets broken in.

B: There is really nothing you can do AFAIK to limp it along except to replace the syncros. When you do that, there are other parts in there you should upgrade as well.

As far as the fluid, I was told to use dex/merc because the guy who built mine said with his experiences with other fluids, it performed the best.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

The clutch chatter MAY go away over time depending on the clutch , it could also be from a worn out parts too. The syncros need to be replaced, plain and simple so guess what that means.... you get to pull the trans out again.

S_Johnson

The flywheel is perfect (and aftermarket), and the whole clutch kit is brand new (6 puck ceramic, non-sprung clutch disc)


Yeah, I know I need to replace the syncros, and I'm not trying to avoid that, I just simply CANNOT do it anytime in the next couple of months.

I'm just looking for a way to better protect the gears until then.

S_Johnson

As a side note how big of a deal would it be to replace the syncros? And what other things should I do at the same time (and how big of a deal are THEY?)

Also, guesstimates as to how much a shop would charge? My problem is more about having time, than having money... Within reason.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

That is a strange clutch choice unless you really need/want it. I think your chattering is due to poor clutch choice. Ad the other have pointed it, it may get slightly better as it breaks in.

As for the syncros. You can probably avoid damage to the trans by skipping the gears with syncro problems. Skipping 2nd should be no big deal for your car.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

A: If you're running an aggressive clutch, it may be you need to get used to giving the engine some rpm and slipping a bit more than other vehicles you're used to driving. The Spec Stage 3 was notorious for this but if you get used to driving it, it's okay. No idea what you have.

And very important is the 2.93 rear gear if you're still running that. A manual needs a higher gear for best drivability. A 2.66 first gear really needs 3.73 at a minimum.

B: The only thing you can do by continuing to drive it is cost yourself $300 more in parts when it does get rebuilt. If you catch it while it's just blocker rings, you're better off.

I have no idea to where you're moving but Tick in NC has a pretty decent reputation.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

just replaced the rev syncro in my 56and being the shifter block had the tooth broke off (done before i had it) and the new block caused us to go further into the trans as the main case had to be pulled so we replaced the fork pads with brass pads.

with all of that said, a long jaw puller and short puller is what you will need for what your doing, if you start replacing bearings then that opens another chapter. just take your time and take lots of pics as you go. can easily be done i a weekend and back on the road.

the gearbox is who i got my stuff from.