Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
#51
Member
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
Hey I know this is an old thread but nobody touched on the cags or skip shift do you just leave it unplugged or do they have a plug for the solenoid so I don't have it in there
The following users liked this post:
91ORANGEZ28 (04-24-2023)
#53
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 26,113
Received 1,687 Likes
on
1,282 Posts
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
I put a freeze plug in mine. Seems like it was about 30 or 31mm. Whatever I came up with didn't fit real tight, but that was OK, there's no pressure or anything, and sealer held it in well enough and kept it from leaking.
There's another hole, for the reverse lockout. Seems like that one was the same size as some oil drain plug (threaded) you can buy in the Help! section of drain plugs.
I might have those 2 mixed up in my mind. It's been like 20 yrs, and as They say, your memory is the 2nd thing you lose when you get old; but I forgot what the 1st was supposed to be.
There's another hole, for the reverse lockout. Seems like that one was the same size as some oil drain plug (threaded) you can buy in the Help! section of drain plugs.
I might have those 2 mixed up in my mind. It's been like 20 yrs, and as They say, your memory is the 2nd thing you lose when you get old; but I forgot what the 1st was supposed to be.
The following users liked this post:
WildCard600 (11-19-2019)
#54
Supreme Member
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: NJ
Posts: 4,345
Received 298 Likes
on
234 Posts
Car: 92 Firebird
Engine: 4.8 LR4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
The reverse lockout hole is smooth, the CAGS is threaded. I too have CRS, can't remember shyte
#55
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 26,113
Received 1,687 Likes
on
1,282 Posts
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
CRS, can't remember shyte
The following users liked this post:
scooter (11-19-2019)
#56
Member
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
this M20X1.5 for the skip shift I wanna wire the reverse lockout to work and what is the best crossmember for the money I was gonna go with the Spohn
The following users liked this post:
91ORANGEZ28 (04-24-2023)
#57
Member
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
I also have access to a ZF 6-speed I know it will bolt up and I know that a factory torque arm won't work I would use a tunnel mounted torque arm my question is would I still need the Dakota digital box or is the speedometer compatible. I do plan on using the T56 for my car but I believe my wife wants the stronger ZF transmission
#58
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 721
Received 168 Likes
on
133 Posts
Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: sp357
Transmission: T-5
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
I also have access to a ZF 6-speed I know it will bolt up and I know that a factory torque arm won't work I would use a tunnel mounted torque arm my question is would I still need the Dakota digital box or is the speedometer compatible. I do plan on using the T56 for my car but I believe my wife wants the stronger ZF transmission
FWIW
#59
Member
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
I've had one friend complete the ZF swap by doing a custom torque arm that has a crossbar that attached to his subframe connectors but he also had the Corvette driveshaft set to his measurements I don't believe he had too many tunnel issues
#60
Junior Member
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
Currently working on this swap, and there's 2 lines that appear to run from the pass side of the transmission in my 87 IROC, to the radiator. The T56 i pulled from a 95 LT1, doesn't have those lines or any coolant lines for that matter. Nothing in this guide says what to do with those...so im curious? I know this thread has been dead for a while, hopefully someone out there can help me out. I'm not a car guy, this is my first build. SO if the question sounds stupid/ignorant, thats IS WHY lmao. Im LEARNING as I go and a auto to a manual swap prob isn't where I should start, but you gotta start somewhere lmao...Everything on the car is stock, but I wanted a manual since the 350 didn't come in one and auto is boring to me. Thanks in advance
#61
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
Currently working on this swap, and there's 2 lines that appear to run from the pass side of the transmission in my 87 IROC, to the radiator. The T56 i pulled from a 95 LT1, doesn't have those lines or any coolant lines for that matter. Nothing in this guide says what to do with those...so im curious? I know this thread has been dead for a while, hopefully someone out there can help me out. I'm not a car guy, this is my first build. SO if the question sounds stupid/ignorant, thats IS WHY lmao. Im LEARNING as I go and a auto to a manual swap prob isn't where I should start, but you gotta start somewhere lmao...Everything on the car is stock, but I wanted a manual since the 350 didn't come in one and auto is boring to me. Thanks in advance
#62
Junior Member
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
I knew that the manual didnt have the lines. I just wasnt sure what to do with them since this guide didn't say. So i just cap off the holes where the trans lines go in. Do you have a clue what threads the hole would be so I can get a couple caps?
#63
Member
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
I believe they're either 5/16 or 3/8 npt
#65
Junior Member
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
Ok guys, im confused a bit on the wiring for the reverse lockout. Ive searched everywhere and I can't find a guide to what wire color etc actually goes where and my pigtails don't match the stock stuff. The Lockout pigtail set i bought thats labeled as to whats what, has a Pink wire (Ignition Voltage) and Green Wire (Reverse Lockout Solenoid Control). Stated above to wire to brake light switch and the other to ground. Which goes to ground and which goes to the brake light? and which wire here in this photo on the brake light do i use? Im not sure what position that brake light switch was in when i pulled the wires off, so left and right would be hard to choose. Yellow, to my knowledge, is usually ignition, so does that pink wire (labeled ignition on the pigtail) splice into that yellow wire on that switch and the green go to ground in the console area? Im also not sure I have the top connector on the brake light switch hooked up right, it goes on both ways, but one wire is pink and other purple...does it matter? or is it just completing a circuit and thats it? Sorry if these are dumb questions, I just don't know **** and trying to learn. I searched and searched for hours and days before I made a post about it. I havent started the wiring yet, but this is the only portion that has me confused....Thanks in advance
BTW, the radiator plug I was asking about a several days ago, was a CONFIRMED Dorman part 5/16 size. I got 2 for less than $10 at advanced auto parts. Worked like a charm to plug both holes the trans cooler lines left open. So thanks for that.
BTW, the radiator plug I was asking about a several days ago, was a CONFIRMED Dorman part 5/16 size. I got 2 for less than $10 at advanced auto parts. Worked like a charm to plug both holes the trans cooler lines left open. So thanks for that.
#66
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 887
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
9 Posts
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: L31 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 D44
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
Here are some typical wire coding off the top of my head:
Red - battery voltage, always hot.
Pink - hot in run+start
Orange - hot in accessory+run
To activate the solenoid, one side needs to supply the +12V power (pink), and the other (green) is the control signal that ultimate goes to ground.
On a 4th gen, pink comes from a fused source, and the green goes to the ECM to be grounded.
Since your situation is different, you can either make it a 1) hot trigger, or 2) ground trigger.
1) ground the green wire, and hook the pink to a switched hot source, such as the output side of the brake switch.
NOTE: if you brake and downshift from 6th to 5th, you have to be careful not to hit Reverse (at high speed!)
or 2) tie the pink wire to another pink source... hot in run. Then connect the green wire to a switch that goes to ground when activated... such as a manual switch, or controller... Samoco or Samoco from Wirebarn or a review on RacingJunk or a Jegs version <<-- check the Instructions tab for a helpful PDF or a B/W PDF here
I don't have a wiring diagram handy, and AustinThirdGen.org is down at the moment, so I can't say for sure which brake wire to tap into.
Joe
Red - battery voltage, always hot.
Pink - hot in run+start
Orange - hot in accessory+run
To activate the solenoid, one side needs to supply the +12V power (pink), and the other (green) is the control signal that ultimate goes to ground.
On a 4th gen, pink comes from a fused source, and the green goes to the ECM to be grounded.
Since your situation is different, you can either make it a 1) hot trigger, or 2) ground trigger.
1) ground the green wire, and hook the pink to a switched hot source, such as the output side of the brake switch.
NOTE: if you brake and downshift from 6th to 5th, you have to be careful not to hit Reverse (at high speed!)
or 2) tie the pink wire to another pink source... hot in run. Then connect the green wire to a switch that goes to ground when activated... such as a manual switch, or controller... Samoco or Samoco from Wirebarn or a review on RacingJunk or a Jegs version <<-- check the Instructions tab for a helpful PDF or a B/W PDF here
I don't have a wiring diagram handy, and AustinThirdGen.org is down at the moment, so I can't say for sure which brake wire to tap into.
Joe
The following users liked this post:
91ORANGEZ28 (04-24-2023)
#67
Junior Member
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
Aight, awesome. This was very helpful. Seems like the logical/safer way of doing this is to buy the switch and not risk downshifting into R. Didn't want to spend another $100 but its better safe than sorry. Trans is freshly rebuilt, don't need any unnecessary damages.
#68
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
im going to be swapping in a t56 to my 85 this weekend or next, just wanted make sure. I should be able to use a T5 crossmember and my stock torque arm to the new tranny right?
#69
Supreme Member
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: NJ
Posts: 4,345
Received 298 Likes
on
234 Posts
Car: 92 Firebird
Engine: 4.8 LR4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
Torque arm will work
#70
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1988 Iroc Camaro
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700r4 for now
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
Hawks has the full kit for sale. The T-56 is offered with 2.66 or 2.97 ratio. Any suggestions? Will be installing it behind my 5.7
#71
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 26,113
Received 1,687 Likes
on
1,282 Posts
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
2.66 w/ high 3s rear gear minimum, like 3.73 or 4.10
#72
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Re: Automatic to T56 swap MADE EASY Tutorial *Pics*
Always the closer ratio.
Even the close ratio OEM gear sets for T56 are still more like "close" ratio if you squint. These are not true race car like close ratios. So you aren't giving up any drivability.
The drop between 1st and 2nd is HUGE on most cars.
Close ratio really makes a difference when you are pulling out of low speed corners.
Even the close ratio OEM gear sets for T56 are still more like "close" ratio if you squint. These are not true race car like close ratios. So you aren't giving up any drivability.
The drop between 1st and 2nd is HUGE on most cars.
Close ratio really makes a difference when you are pulling out of low speed corners.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dennisbernal91z
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
15
07-30-2017 01:22 AM