DSmith

So I have a friend who builds transmission and usually does a great job of it. I had him build a 700r4 for my Camaro and put in anything that he felt it needed to handle 600hp(no, I do not have 600 hp). Anyway, He named off a list of stuff that he upgraded so it would handle the power.

I finally got around to installing it in the car and when I went to tighten the bolts for the rear u-joint the drive shaft would only turn one direction. I checked to make sure the transmission was in neutral and that the part brake was off. I can turn the drive shaft in the direction it would turn if the car was moving forward but it will not turn at all in the reverse direction, not even with a pry bar.

The engine has only been turned my hand to install he converter bolts and the car has not been back on the ground so I don't see any reason why something would be broken.

I call up the builder and he tells me that it's something to do with the sprag hanging up. Does this make sense to anyone?

Pro Built Automatics

With the 2-4 band set to tight it will do this. He is supposed to check this "before" it leaves the shop. If it is the band, you will burn it up if you try to drive it.

DSmith

Thanks for your reply. I'm not gonna drive it. I haven't even put fluid in it yet(other than the converter). I'm just gonna pull it back out and do what I wanted to do in the first place, try it myself.
I have been on your site several times, ordered the step by step DVD from you and watched it several times but when the time come to actually work on the transmission I passed it to someone who has built transmissions for me in the past. I'm a do-it-yourself kind of guy and I have done everything EXCEPT an automatic transmission.

Again, thank you for the reply and information.

DSmith

Ok, got this trans back out and took it apart. The first thing I found was the servo wedged in which had the pin pushed against the band (PBA called this one right)
next I found the accumulator piston in UP SIDE DOWN.
The rotating assembly was really hard to get out, once out I seen why(see attached pic)

It may not work right once I get it back together but it darn sure can't be any worse that it was.

Pro Built Automatics

That is a 3-4 clutch and it is ruined. I see that it was not even soaked on oil before installation. The accumulator piston might be in the right way, it depends on what valve body kit was used. Which accumulator setup is it?

DSmith

All I can tell you is he said he installed a Fairbanks shift kit, other than that I don't know. I was just going by the video I ordered from you guys a few years back. I need to get my hands on the instructions for those kits to see how everything goes.

With the exception of some petroleum jelly to hole things in place the whole thing was assembled dry.


Thanks for you replies,
Dewayne

DSmith

Made it to the end of my road and back (3 mile round trip) under its own power today. Now to get the console back in and the ECM reprogrammed to control the lock up.

Thanks for the help guys.

DSmith

Ok, a little update.
Since I my last post I have put a couple hundred miles or so on this transmission. Part throttle shifting is great, it has a nice firm shift and after a couple adjustments on th TV cable it shifts at a good rpm.

Full throttle manual shifting is great from 1st to 2nd gear. as soon as I move the shifter I feel a very solid shift. 2nd to 3rd shifts are just as solid but there is a delay from the time I shift into 3rd until the transmission actually shifts, by this time I am out of the powerband. shifting sooner does not help, still delays to the same RMP.

What or how do I adjust to get 2nd to 3rd shift to happen as soon as I shift?