dabomb6608

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys, the line between the slave & master cylinder on my t5 is broke in half. Ive been trying to search and havent found anyone even talking about trying to repair these. Even more, with them being so expensive to replace(since you have to get the slave cylinder with the line) im shocked no one have attempted to.
Is there a reason i cant get some hydraulic or FI hose that fits snug on to it and push them into it so that they sit really close together. Then just put on a hose clamp on both ends?
If this is a stupid question, by all means tell me why. I just dont like it when people say its a stupid question or do a search and then dont explain as to why its stupid. Or tell what to search under for this.
Anyways thanks for any help.

Patrick

jmd

iTrader: (4)

The dorman replacement line for LT1 would work w/ some modification / the right o-rings.
(edit:source: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...-t56-swap.html )

Centric parts 151.62001 is a dir. replacement.

A local shoppe that that repairs hydraulics could build a new line with the ends.

A pre-bled 93-97 F master/slave assembly is an option.

dabomb6608

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the reply. It looks like the centric part is about 40bucks on ebay. But before i go about that, i would really like to know if my idea is feasable. Yes 40 bucks isnt much, but if i could fix it and it would be good as new then why bother with waiting for shipping and spending the money?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Something to try:
get a double barbed fitting w/ 1/8" or bigger i.d. (slightly drilling it out to get the size bigger is okay; that's what needs done on OEM LS1 clutch lines that come restricted from the factory)
the barbs should be the same o.d. as the old line o.d. where it's fitted over the ends minus line wall thickness.
Trim the broken ends clean and flat/even (highest tpi hacksaw blade + some 220 grit paper)
Dip them in boiling water & push over the barbed fitting.
This works on some fuel lines; don't know if it'll work on your clutch line. Please let us know.

dabomb6608

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like something to try. Maybe even for added measure, depending on how it works out, I can put a hose of some sort over it all after using the double barbed fitting. With it being as thick plastic as it is, it might leak some with just the fitting. But with the fitting there to hold back the majority of the pressure, the hose could just be used to hold back any leaking.

Apeiron

It can't tolerate any leaking.

dabomb6608

iTrader: (3)

Which was why i planned on getting a hose over it as well. With clamps at both ends.

430Camaro

iTrader: (1)

Funny...the exact same thing happened to me on the same day(saturday). I had just fixed some things up on the '91 and pulled it out on the driveway to warm up and set the idle mixture/speed. I backed out and got ready to head out, pushed down on the clutch and POP...then the pedal was stuck to the floor. My driveway is pretty steep and I didn't have anyone to help out so I had to carefully push it back into the garage with my other car with a piece of carpet between them to keep from damaging anything. Somehow it went relatively smoothly minus being a bit crooked in the garage.

A hole had actually blown out in the side of that hard plastic line they use. I have long tube headers so I think they were cooking the line and it finally blew.
I had a few '94 4th gen V6 master/slave units on hand that I had replaced on my '94. I checked things out and decided to use the stainless braided line from the '94 setup along with the '94 slave cylinder and kept the original master cylinder. I'm not sure why the above post says you need to grind down on the line to get it to fit in the '91 master cylinder, it fit for me without any problem and is not leaking at all. Maybe he used a LT1 line and they might be different than the V6? I used the '94 slave because the '94 line has a 90 degree elbow on the slave end and the '94 slave connection is at the rear pointing along the axis of the cylinder instead of up out the top like the '91. This adds an extra inch or so in length to the slave so I had to bend the rear flap of the steel heat shield box out a bit to get it to clear. I bled it, bolted it all up and it's working fine. I haven't driven it yet but the pedal feels firm and it shifts smoothly.
The ss-braided line is a little longer I think but I was able to route it and retain it without it getting in the way of anything. And hopefully it won't get cooked and pop...

Blue78

had the same problem. line got too close to the header burnt hole in the line. couldn't find anybody with line or complete set-up so went to advance and bought a hard line repair kit for $4 has been working this is my daily driver so had to repair as quickly as possible