1hotroc

iTrader: (3)

I don't know if this is normal or not. I have a 3rd gen with the T56 LT1 swap. I used a brand new clutch, flywheel, throw out bearing etc.. I am not sure if I
bled the slave correctly because there is no bleeder anyways. The 4th gen
pedals were also used. The problem is the clutch doesnt engage until the pedal is released 1/2 way. no slipping or engagement problem. Shouldnt it grab as soon as the clutch pedal is being released.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (2)

No, it will engage where all the clearances meet up. If you want to change the pedal height, you need to make the pedal rod adjustible or put an adjustible master on.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

it sounds normal, its annoying at first but you will get used to it

1hotroc

iTrader: (3)

If the pedal rod was longer would it engage a little sooner? I did'nt get the clutch pedal in exactly the right spot, so that rod going into the slave is not exactly dead on straight. Dont know if that is an issue? Also what adjustable master is good to use with our cars?

Air_Adam

The clutch in my '97 Z28 doesn't start to grab right off the floor, it has to come off a bit before it will start to grab. Sounds normal to me.

1hotroc

iTrader: (3)

[I] hate to beat an old thread but nobody told me what a good adjustable master/slave cylinder is good to use and easy to setup? I hate the pedal grabbing 1/2 WAY before it starts moving.

1hotroc

iTrader: (3)

Bump. does shimming the slave cylinder help the pedal grab closer to the floor? I cant get a straight answer. Spec never provided one in there kit I bought? Is this something new to resolve this problem? Any help greatly appreciated.

iansane

iTrader: (1)

I would think shimming an LTx slave would make it worse by spacing the slave farther away from the clutch fork. Now if you shaved the factory spacer down shorter... Shimming the slave is usually done on LSx cars that have the internal slave.

I have a Tick Adjustable Master cylinder. Holy crap it made the car drivable again. It's expensive but worth it.

1hotroc

iTrader: (3)

Thanks. Im thinking the adjustable m/c too. Is it hard to get it right? doesnt slip and will the clutch pedal start engaging lower? Instead of almost to the top of its travel.

tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

mcleod now makes an adjustable hyd setup for the 3rd gens

iansane

iTrader: (1)

I seem to remember that one being just a factory version with an adjustable rod? The tick is a larger bore MC and adjustable rod.

tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

they say it has a 13/16 th bore and adj rod http://www.mcleodracing.com/info/?id=5291

1hotroc

iTrader: (3)

I Just talked to mccleod , they did not recommend there adjustable mc because it would flow more fluid and make the late engagement worse. I was told the mc needs to be smaller in my car because the slave rod is traveling too far thats why I have the late engagement( confusing, I know..) So from what I gather if I shim the slave out a little for less travel this might help my problem, Does this sound right?

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

pull the master... cut about 1/2" out of the rod... get a die, and thread both ends of the rod, add a coupler with a nut on each end.. adjust it to where you want it... DONE, cost... 2$...

there is a thread about this if you search "T56 adjustment"... with pictures



EDIT:

here is the link
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...tment-t56.html

iansane

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, and that will duplicate the mcloed MC, not the Tick version. The Tick version is a larger diameter (I believe a full 1"?) so that it pushes more fluid. Albeit at the expense of a stiffer/shorter pedal. Worth it to me.

The mcloed and DIY adjustable unit are just changing how long the stroke is by modifying where the pedal is in relation to the stop. Factory has a certain throw and changing the length of the rod (by making it adjustable) means you have a longer throw and push a hair more fluid but you risk over extending and hitting the inner stop (which there are also DIYs about disassembly and chopping the inner stop height).