Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

snap goes the axle

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Old 10-09-2000, 11:43 PM
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Car: '89 Z28tt
Engine: Dart Little M Twin Turbo
Transmission: T56
snap goes the axle

I really want to get a 12 sec pass. I tried. In my quest to get better than the 13.4@113's I was getting all day yesterday (shakedown day, conservative DFI tune), I was coerced into trying a set of drag radials. Damned if I was going to get another 2.4 60' (launch at 3000, slight bog and chirp, then tires blaze from 3500 till shift in 1st and 4500-shift in second) Long story short, I dropped the clutch at 3000, heard a snap, and shut her down. The drivers side axle was twisted a bit and had a clean break.

I think my only solution is to get a 9" rear. The ultimate goal for this car is about 700 hp in road race trim, and 900 hp the few times I hit the drag strip. Any suggestions for parts? The checkbook isn't a bottomless pit, but if I need something, well, I guess I do. From what I've read, I should be getting it with 35 spline axles, a nodular center section, and Detroit Locker diff. If there is a better combo for road racing, please speak up



------------------
Andris Skulte
Skulte Performance Designs
Z28tt-89 IROC T56 DFI Twin Turbo
http://www.skulte.com

Old 10-10-2000, 12:14 PM
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Transmission: T56
Hey Andris,
If you want a road race car with a rear that can handle some power, then you have to check this out. www.rareautodesign.com This guy swapped in a Corvette Dana 44 independent rear suspension into a 3rd gen. A beefed up Dana 44 can handle some pretty serious power(not quite as much as a 9 inch) and the IRS setup weighs less than the solid axle setup. And for road racing this would be incredible. I've been trying to get more people interested in this in the past few days. The guy says that he needs more people to show interest in this if he wants to make a bolt in kit. There is a thread going in the suspension/chassis board.

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1991 Z28 - 350 TPI, T56, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, ported plenum & runners, AFPR, Holley Annihilator ignition box and wires, Hooker shorty headers w/o AIR, no cats, Flowmaster muffler, homeade ram-air, SSM subframe connectors, Steve Spohn adjustable torque arm and T56 crossmember

[This message has been edited by Steve91Z28 L98 (edited October 10, 2000).]
Old 10-10-2000, 07:36 PM
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A nice Franklin or Winters quick change would be nice. They will handle the power and i think wil be cheaper than an equivalent 9" or 12 bolt. Some fabrication would be required but the gear adjustability is perfect if you plan on using the car for multiple forms of racing. With the 9" you need to have multiple center sections with the appropriate R+P's($$$$$); with the quick change you just need a few sets of spur gears, each set gives 2 ratios since you can reverse them. Also, you can get magnesium and aluminum housings and axle tubes to save weight.
Just a thought....
Old 10-11-2000, 09:34 PM
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Intersting ideas from the other two guys. I have used a quick change on a land speed car, and have also considered it for other service. Not real efficient and tend to have heat problems.

Andris, if you really plan on hitting it with big power and slicks, 35 spline would be a minimum for a 9 inch. For most road racing I think 31 is fine in a semi floater. that brings the issue of the floater up. Much better overall strength, it just costs more. There are some pretty trick things that can be ordered in a floater. Cambered axle tubes of various degrees from .25 to over 1 degree in increments. There are lots of options in various strengthening gussets and oil control baffling in 9 inches as well. I will agree, third member are pretty pricey when built the way you describe. I haven't owned one myself, but I would recommend a locker. You'll probably notice a jump in price from 31 to 35 spline versions. I rode in a car on a short road course recently that had a 31 spl locker. I barely noticed the characteristics in handling that can show up with a locker. Open exhaust, didn't hear anything but the noise may or not be an issue on the street.

You may want to check out speedway engineering, AFCO, or stock car products. They all sell 9s and quick changes. Not sure if they would install the various brackets. They also tend to specialize in full floaters. Let us know what you think and what you come up with.
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