25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

hi all, research has unusually ended with no solutions to my problems, so i must call for help!

i did a 700R4- a WC T-5 swap last summer and have had no problems until a few weeks ago. i cannot DOWNSHIFT into 3rd gear from 4th gear OR 5th gear, but can shift from 1st gear and 2nd gear into 3rd gear without any issues of any kind. my first thought was the shift forks were messed up as i've done this before with other T5s, but it shifts perfectly when not moving, up the gears and down the gears. this made be think bad synchro, so i tried shifting using only the synchros and no clutch multiple times, upshifted and downshifted without grinding even once, even when going from 4th to 3rd. i am really lost as to why i can shift at a standstill or without the clutch fine, but not do a normal downshift for acceleration or stopping. have a brand new clutch, less than 5,000 miles on it, new valvoline ATF at the same time, checked it last night, still clean, red, and full. anything else i should be looking for???

i really appreciate any help, its really annoying having to push the clutch in, shift to 2nd and then into third to pass somebody or get the right gear around a wider corner.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

What kind of pilot did you use; a bearing, or a bushing?

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

bushing, assuming it was bronze by the color.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

another symptom occured today, the trans got jammed in 4th gear, just on a nice cruise, normal driving, couldnt get it out of 4th gear, even when using both hands trying my damnedest to get it out, ended up having to take off in 4th gear and once i was moving it began to shift ok again, it happened again on the way home, stuck in 4th, but everytime i tried to shift to 5th, it'd grind gears....now i really believe the shiftforks are F***ed up, i have a S10 T5 from a 2.8 liter, i know the top plates are different, but can anybody tell me if the shift forks themselves will interchange with the Fbody trans? if not i'm in the market for another trans or atleast a top plate with shiftforks.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

anybody know if the S10 and Fbody T5 shiftforks interchange? trans is coming out tonight but i'd like to know if i'm making a chicago trip for a wc T5 on my day off work wednesday, i would appreciate it if anybody could tell me. i just hate having cars torn apart longer than they need to be.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Forks are the same.

I doubt changint them will fix it. They're either OK, or they're broke off, in which case NOTHING happens when you try to shift into either of the gears that share a fork (1st-2nd, or 3rd-4th).

Sounds to me more like you have excessive play between the clutch gear and the mainshaft, instead of the preload that's supposed to be there; so when you shift it into 4th, the sleeve is WAY too far toward the front of the transmission and away from the mainshaft; and when you put it in 4th, the keys pop out from under the sleeve. Then when you try to shift it out of 4th, it won't go because the keys have rode up onto the little rim of the 3rd gear blocker ring.

This is probably from either the clutch gear and/or mainshaft bearing being worn out, or from the case being "ballooned". Not good for the home team in either case.

If you have a line on a T-5 out of an F-body, I'd suggest going ahead and exercising it. Repairing that kind of a defect will take a rebuild kit for sure, and maybe a case; the only way to get a case is to buy a transmission; and if you buy a transmission that's good enough to spend money on, then what's the point of taking it apart to fix a smoked one that you don't know whether it's salvageable or not?

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

i dont know much about transmissions in general, but what you say about the shiftforks does make alot of sense to me, i've broken a 3rd - 4th shiftfork in a T5 before, now that you say what you've said, i remember driving it with 1st, 2nd, and 5th, fealt like 3rd and 4th were non existant....i'll go nab the Fbody 5 speed as soon as i can, and i thank you for the input, saved me from tying up the garage for a week while i get a trans for a 5 hour trans swap job.

need to do a little less of i think, lol.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

OK - I'll ask a hopefully dumb question...did you check your fluid level in the trans? When my old T-5 got low on oil it would start getting impossible to shift after it heated up, especially after highway driving....... once I couldn't get the thing in any gear!! Luckily I coasted into a gas station off the exit ramp.

Once I topped it off, it was fine.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

i checked the fluid, was also my first thought but it was fine. 2 people i know are checking on the availability of T5s and T56s tomarrow, i'll know from both people by 5PM. if neither is available to me locally, i'm going to chicago to nab up another WC T5 for 225 bucks...just hope i can get one here in the kalamazoo area, sure beats chicago traffic......once i swap transmissions monday morning for spectator drags at the local speedway, i'll tear down the trans to see exactly what happened for sure, post findings and possably pics for future reference of others with same or similar issues.

raven0840

First, where are you getting T-5's for that price? It'd be nice to have a spare just in case and I'm not that far away...

Second, I've opened up a non-WC before, but never did anything with it as the case was cracked and the gears were shot but I am somewhat familiar with their innards, but in deference to those with real experience. That said, the first thing I would check would be the shifter itself. Take the cover off see if anything looks odd. There's a plastic bushing that can break (happened to me) and if a peice of plastic gets down in one of the shift-grooves, I think it'd screw things up a bit, maybe like what you're talking about. But that'd be easy to check and can be done from inside the car without dropping the trans. Although it wouldn't necessarily explain why it works sitting still but not moving...It's easy to do though, so I'd check that first even if it's unlikely.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

sofakingdom called it!

not only were the three little keys holding the ring from moving when desired, the damned things flat broke in half, leafing half where they should be, and the other halves in the bottom of the case. as i said before, i'm a damned idiot with a manual trans, but i think if i replace these with ones from my parts trans it'll work again...but whats the use? bearings being worn somewhere obviousely made them go out and i should just rebuild it while i drive it with a replacement trans, leave the rebuilt one on a shelf until it grenades. i bought it under assumption it was a WC trans, but the casting date on the trans case was "89"....rule this as a non WC trans afterall?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Sorry.... I usually try to lie...

Seriously, I used to have a thriving business building manual transmissions, so I've seen the innards of more than a couple.

The 2nd design (I HATE that "World Class" PIT team ISO9000 kaizen trendy buzzword from the 80s BS) T-5 has tapered roller bearings on the countergear, while the 1st design has straight rollers. They are very easy to identify from outside the case. If the front countergear bearing is flat and shiny with rounded edges, looks sort of like an upside-down freeze plug, then it's 1st design. If it's sort of dull and has sharp corners with a depression in the center such that it looks like it has a narrow ridge around it, it's the 2nd design.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

trans is back in the car and working fine, still bought the trans from chicago for a backup. my manual trans experience beyond clutches is super limited so i just dont trust my work. once again, thanks.