Killergrl

ok i know im a girl and im just kind of getting into the whole tranny aspect of things, i know engines but not so much trannys........ive never had this happen before...ok my car (90 rs, 700r4), has ever since we swapped 305tbi to 350tbi, having the ses light coming on after it kicks in to passing gear when passing a car, getting on it, or just when it kicks down to go up a big hill, then after that light comes on it drives like im pulling a HUGE trailor, i ran the codes, i come up with some sensors that i obviously need to get checked out...code, 42,32,43,and 44. well this last week ive been driving back and forth about 100 miles round trip bout 3 days a week to my job....and when that light ends up coming on when i go to stop it smells bad, like something buring but it doesnt smell like tranny fluid, i mean i am pretty sure i have smelled buring tranny fluid before, kinda smells like rubber or plastic in a way.....BUT it only happens when that light is on and i've drove with it on....when i drive 50 miles w/o the light coming one its all good..........could something be sticking in the tranny and just getting burnt to **** or am i just pulling **** outta my *** here?!?!? kinda irritated because i really dont know hardly anything about fricken trannys so i dont really know where to go with this, it had a tranny flush about 1 year ago and it hasnt really been drove all that much since then until this last week......... HELP ME PLEASE!! any suggestions guys/gals/!?!?!??!?!?!?!

RBob

iTrader: (1)

42 = EST, 43 = ESC, 32 = EGR, 44 = O2 lean.

The 42 may be left over from when the SA timing was set.

The 32 code is common so lets forget about it for now.

The 44 may be caused by an exhaust leak, weak fuel pump, etc.

The code 43, ESC, is the one that is causing your SES light along with the loss of power. When you mash to go-pedal the ECM does a forced knock test. It adds SA timing in order to force the engine to knock (detonate). If the ECM does not sense this knock, it throws code 43 and pulls out SA.

The pulling of timing is the loss of power you feel. The whole forced knock thing is designed to test the ESC (electronic spark control) circuitry. IOW: the knock sensor, filter, ECM, and wiring.

If you can hear the engine knocking then something is incorrect. It may be that the knock sensor connector isn't connected. Or, it and the fan switch wires have been swapped (sensor in pass head betwen 6 & 8).

Or, you are running higher octane fuel then required. SA Timing may not have been set correctly.

What needs to be done is to figure out why the engine won't knock. Or why the ECM won't detect the knock (if it is occuring), and the issue is fixed.

Check the sticky's on top of the TBI board here. There is a thread about 305 to 350 TBI swaps. Has some decent info in it.

Re-vivisting code 32, EGR, if there is EGR during the forced knock test, that can prevent detonation from occuring.

RBob.