Sonix

iTrader: (1)

So I removed my perfectly working trans, in order to bolt it to my motor to ease the job of lining them up.

Hurst 3730021 shifter on the setup.

I'm now trying to break in the motor. I've put everything back in the car as well as I think is possible. It seems to be stuck in gear, the shifter feels like it's in neutral, but after firing it up (and trying to break in the flat tappet cam ), I let out the clutch and it stalls. I played with the shifter, and eased out the clutch slowly, and no matter what, i'm still in gear. I think it's 4th gear, since I can go in and out of 4th easily.

So, i'll list off what i've done, maybe someone can find what I did that may have screwed it up:

-Spilled most of my fluid, but filled it back up
- I'm pretty sure i'm within one turn of where it was before on each linkage rod, I *may* have it out due to fiddling with it to get it in place.
-I moved one of the gear shift stops. Just as i'm typing this I think i'm realizing my problem.... I think I moved the 4th gear stop.. hmm.

Anyway, here's a picture from hurst:



The 3 circles are the... "shifty thingies" in the tranny. They have flats on them. ***If i've got the shifter positioning out, I want to know if i'm "in" a gear or not, should the flats be straight up and down to be "out" of the gears? ***

Thanks guys, i'm going to jack this up again tommorow after work and have a looksee, the more info I have before I tackle it the better off i'll be I think.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Take the rods off the arms (remove the clips). The 3/4 and 1/2 arms should be in their center position in order to be in neutral; the reverse one should be in its forward (clockwise) position to be in neutral.

There's a lockout mechanism on the inside of the cover to keep it from going into 2 forward gears, but there's no lockout for reverse. I'd suspect reverse is the one that's not adjusted or assembled right.

To adjust the shifter, put the transmission in neutral as described, with the rods removed; move all 3 plates in the shifter until you can put a ¼" diameter something or other (3/16" allen wrench works OK) through the hole in the bottom of the plates, which should line up with the notch in the center of the outer housing; and screw/unscrew the threaded stud until it just exactly slips itself into the arm. When you get all 3 right, remove the allen, back the stop bolts a good ways out (until the shifter never contacts them, and screw them in about ½ turn past just contacting the shifter handle while you hold it hard into 3rd and 4th.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

oooohhhhh, right! A 1/4" rod to hold them all steady! That's how I adjust the stops! and which position all rods should be while in neutral!

damn! Thanks! I think I owe you a case of beer by now for the advice.

Air_Adam

There should be a little white plastic thing, looks like a round tube bent 90*... that goes in the bottom of the shifter mechanism to hold all the levers in the right place while you get the rods adjusted properly. Sounds like the levers are out of adjustment.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

didn't see that part Adam, that on the stock shifter and the hurst model?

I got a piece of 1/4" rod from work, couldn't get my hands in there to get it through that hole... Couldn't see the hole for a while Anyway, go figure, I grab my set of allen keys, 3/16" fit perfectly....

It appears I was in 4th and reverse, if that's possible.... I had a lot of confusion since from where you sit, reverse is on the left, but the shifters mechanism is on the right, and it's the one furthest back on the tranny Yea, so I (mis)adjusted a few rods at first, until I got my bearings right, then put it back the way I found it.

I think what I did, was during assembly, I tightened the 3/8" nuts onto the tranny, and while doing so, it shifted it into a gear. I just keep assembling it, assuming that i'd be in *A* gear, and when I got into the car, i'd feel that I was in, say, first gear, and i'd pop it out, and i'd be in neutral... Well I guess not. Everything is a learning experience with this car, gotta see the silver lining....

oh yea, the tabs that bolt to the trans, are the way sofaking described them, (1/2 & 3/4 up and down for neutral, reverse clockwise) but technically, the "flats" on the stud coming out of the trans need to be up and down for all 3, but reverse has it's tab skewed. Anyway, now I get it, and it should all be good.
Weird thing is, I think the 1/2 shifter is almost at the end of it's travel... The threaded nut that goes on the shifter rod is almost falling off the end of the stud... Weird that it's so far off....hmm.

Anyway, all appears well, and i'll try and start it to find out, tommorow, thanks again.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

On the 1/2 stud all the way out to the end, make sure you don't have the arm upside down; i.e. the wrong side of it toward the transmission.

Those really aren't so hard once you get the hang of it. You have NO IDEA how many of those I've adjusted over the years. Pretty amazing that I haven't even had one for over 20 years now, and I still remember it.

You'll find that the shifter works a whole lot better with the metal bushings instead of the plastic ones; except that they have a tendency to rattle or jingle sometimes. Also, always keep good clips installed: they act like little springs holding the studs firmly in one place in the hole in the arm, and they don't last a real long time, and the whole shifter ends up feeling and acting a whole lot sloppier when they lose their sproing. I used to change them out about every oil change. They're super cheap and don't take 60 seconds to replace them all, so it's no big deal.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

oh, I had to read that about 4 times before I know what you meant...
hey, good point, I noticed the threaded part is at the shifter end, for 2 of the 3 rods, except for one, it's at the tranny side... I wonder if that's the one... hmmm.... I'll take a look at that.

Can I get the metal bushings, or the spring clips, somewhere beside hurst? Or do I have to get their rebuild kit or something?
Thanks

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

I think all that has to come from Hurst; IIRC they call it a "pit kit" or some such nowadays. I used to keep about a half-dozen of them in stock at all times. They're less than $10 IIRC.

I'm pretty sure that the threaded end of the rod goes toward the shifter, on the forward gears. Looks like in your "install kit" picture though, this particular kit requires the reverse arm to have the stud at the shifter end of the rod.

But what I was talking about, is the arm (or lever, it's also called); the flat piece that's held to the shift shaft by the nut or bolt. Make sure that's not upside down, because it may locate the hole for the rod either too far to the front or to the rear, if it is. It also may make the whole thing bind, because those have the little "offset" in them to make them line up with where the rod wants to be when it's in the shifter lever straight.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

oh ok, the flat piece. Yea, that threw me, I didn't print off that sheet that I was looking at, so I kinda guessed where it was supposed to be. I'll have to recheck that.

Air_Adam

It came with the install kit I got with my Hurst shifter IIRC. All it is, is a plastic rod that slides through a hole in all the levers inside the shifter to hold them all in place while you set the rods. You can use any snug-fitting rod to do this, but you can probably buy the tool from anywhere that regularly stocks Hurst stuff for a couple bucks.

Air_Adam

Heres a pic... the tool fits though the spot I circled.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

I'm bringing this back for a little bit here. I think you two are the only ones who've used this shifter (or a T10) on this board eh?
So now that the car runs, and i'm ironing out the kinks in it, i've noticed if I bring it up to a high RPM (over 5000), and try to shift it with any kind of "zest", it won't. One of two things happens, usually on the 2-3 shift;
1) When I try to push it into 3rd, it hits a "wall". As if the engine is spooled up too fast to get it into that gear.
2) It won't pull out of 2nd. I'll push the shifter forward, and it'll feel really stiff, not the typical "i'm in neutral" sort of slop, but as if i'm in gear, but the shifter handle is further forward than if i'm still in 2nd. If I let the clutch back out, i'm in second. I have to fight the shifter around for a while, and eventually it'll come out of gear.
I haven't had a chance to get the car home, and up in the air to find out what exactly is happening during case 2. Can anyone think of what it might be?
I bought a metal pit kit, and i'm going to install that this weekend, and readjust the rods, and make sure they are the right way and whatnot. I think one of the rods is upside down or something, since now the 3/4 rod will tap the tranny tunnel.

onebad82z

iTrader: (7)

Nope, I ran the Hurst on my original T10 as well.

Locking in gear..been there..done that. Wish I had advice on how to fix, but I don't.

As seen here...

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...cks-first.html

Never did figure it out as I pulled it and sold it to help finance the T56 swap and couldn't be any happier.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, well at least you got some info that I can look for, thanks. I never know, maybe I have a problem that someone described to you before!

And yea, T-56 will come in a while...

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Oh, side note - This *might* be related to the engine twisting under torque. It's got new *rubber* engine and tranny mounts. I'm thinking of swapping in a poly tranny mount soon, since the engine mounts are much harder to get to.
Out of curiosities sake though, I'm thinking I could temporarily chain down the engine to keep it from twisting. I've heard of drag racers using a chain, or a turnbuckle to keep the engine from twisting. Is this worth considering? Where would I chain it? I'm guessing it would twist clockwise, when viewed from the front right?

onebad82z

iTrader: (7)

Lemme save you the headache although ploy is worth it...

I too thought that, and did the swap for all three mounts...with no change to the stuck in gear problem....

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Well, my rubber tranny mount was sheared, so I replaced that. Put on my steel pit kit for the shifter. Seemed to work well... almost made it all the way around the block... I was in 3rd gear and I watched the lever "fall" back to 4th... I'm guessing it was in third, and the rod slipped off somehow, so I got stuck in 3rd gear. I must have goofed on the pit kit install. I'll jack it up tomorrow and fix that, then take it for a good hard run and see if it sticks in gear anymore..