upgrading driveshaft
#1
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upgrading driveshaft
My driveshaft just went out. And I need to get a new one. I got a 92 GTA w/350 auto, and stock rearend. What kind of driveshaft would you guys suggest for me to get. I wand to get a better one then the alumin shaft.
Thanx,
PsychoGTA:lala:
Thanx,
PsychoGTA:lala:
#3
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Car: 1990 Iroc-Z
you can order a carbon fiber driveshaft....if you got $800 bucks to blow.
http://www.thunderracing.com/index.c...yid=1015#T1020
http://www.thunderracing.com/index.c...yid=1015#T1020
#4
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A friend used a stock aluminum third gen shaft in a 10.70s uncorrected 3500lb pro-shifted hemi4spd 477 rat powered car w/ a Dana 60 and it never failed.
On the flip side, some of the 4th gen f-body guys are breaking the stock aluminum shafts, sometimes in the middle; looks like tubing failure, which leads to...
I can't remember the forum, just that it was GM based, but I once read a pretty good discussion on driveshafts. Someone had found that an economically priced aluminum Ford Motorsport shaft worked in their car lengthwise w/ the trans. they wanted to go with. However, it was also thinner wall thickness tubing than aftermarket aluminum shafts.
So, I'd go with a quality aftermarket aluminum shaft and forget about it. That's what I did and w/ 3.73s it's quite smooth at speed. The more gear you're running, the more critical the shaft straightness & balance are. Cars with 2.73s can get by with a sloppy driveshaft far more than a car with 3.73s. That's part of the reason a car with some rear gear will get a thicker shaft from the factory; less flex with the higher driveshaft rpm that come with the numerically higher gearset.
If you're going to beat the ever loving dogcrap out of the driveline, like running 11s with a stick, I'd consider aftermarket steel.
On the flip side, some of the 4th gen f-body guys are breaking the stock aluminum shafts, sometimes in the middle; looks like tubing failure, which leads to...
I can't remember the forum, just that it was GM based, but I once read a pretty good discussion on driveshafts. Someone had found that an economically priced aluminum Ford Motorsport shaft worked in their car lengthwise w/ the trans. they wanted to go with. However, it was also thinner wall thickness tubing than aftermarket aluminum shafts.
So, I'd go with a quality aftermarket aluminum shaft and forget about it. That's what I did and w/ 3.73s it's quite smooth at speed. The more gear you're running, the more critical the shaft straightness & balance are. Cars with 2.73s can get by with a sloppy driveshaft far more than a car with 3.73s. That's part of the reason a car with some rear gear will get a thicker shaft from the factory; less flex with the higher driveshaft rpm that come with the numerically higher gearset.
If you're going to beat the ever loving dogcrap out of the driveline, like running 11s with a stick, I'd consider aftermarket steel.
#5
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Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 383 Miniram AFR195
Transmission: Tremec TKO
Axle/Gears: BW 9 Bolt/3.70
I went with the Inland Empire aluminum piece. $360 from Summit (part # IED-CF8200).
-Schultzy
-Schultzy
#6
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Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA Notchback
Engine: 305ci, 5.0L, TPI, HO
Transmission: Borg Warner T5 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt Positraction Rear w/3.45 Grs
Is there really a noticable difference in driveshafts?
#7
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Car: Guess
Engine: Crazy 8
Transmission: So close to being a manual I can taste it
I am using a Heavy Duty steel driveshaft from Denny's Driveshafts. It is a bit heavier than aluminum, but I was surprised that it weighs a little as it does. Like the guy said earlier, go with a quality aftermarket piece and forget about it...
BTW, we put my stock aluminum shaft into another car that had a stock steel on just to see if we could tell a difference. Yes, it was subtle, but there. The car just seemed to rev a bit faster. My friend swears his gas mileage increased, but I have my doubts about that...
I wanted carbon fiber but my money tree hadn't started to bloom yet...
BTW, we put my stock aluminum shaft into another car that had a stock steel on just to see if we could tell a difference. Yes, it was subtle, but there. The car just seemed to rev a bit faster. My friend swears his gas mileage increased, but I have my doubts about that...
I wanted carbon fiber but my money tree hadn't started to bloom yet...
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#8
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Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I chose the 1LE shaft. Even tho its .25" dia smaller then the LS1 shafts, it has thicker walls then the LS1 shaft. Lingenfelter has a 3.5" shaft that sometimes can be had on 4th gen GPs for a good price.
#9
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Car: 1987 Black IROC-Z (SOLD)
Originally posted by Justins86bird
I chose the 1LE shaft. Even tho its .25" dia smaller then the LS1 shafts, it has thicker walls then the LS1 shaft. Lingenfelter has a 3.5" shaft that sometimes can be had on 4th gen GPs for a good price.
I chose the 1LE shaft. Even tho its .25" dia smaller then the LS1 shafts, it has thicker walls then the LS1 shaft. Lingenfelter has a 3.5" shaft that sometimes can be had on 4th gen GPs for a good price.
1LE = 2 3/4" dia
LT1 = 3" dia
LS1 = 2 3/4" dia
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Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally posted by DJP87Z28
Stock GM aluminum drive shaft dia's.
1LE = 2 3/4" dia
LT1 = 3" dia
LS1 = 2 3/4" dia
Stock GM aluminum drive shaft dia's.
1LE = 2 3/4" dia
LT1 = 3" dia
LS1 = 2 3/4" dia
#11
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Car: 1987 Black IROC-Z (SOLD)
Originally posted by Justins86bird
The Al LS1 shaft is 3"
The Al LS1 shaft is 3"
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