When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
In the process of trying to get my vortec tpi build running. Currently dealing with a no start issue and possible fuel injector issues contributing to that. While working on it last night I couldn’t help but to notice a large gap on the driver side intake manifold which made the gasket look loose. I was able to take a flat head screwdriver and actually move the gasket, this is towards the rear of the engine while the front looks nice and compressed under intake. Feeling in rear of motor I can also feel a gap between the manifold and block where you apply rtv and it seams like an amount that can’t be made up to seal this intake. Any advice on what can be done in this situation? I may be pulling the rail for new injectors and can pull intake at the same time to try and reseal but idk if it will.
I missed this when I received it two years ago and now I may be screwed lol.
Probably not the case, but thought I might throw this out there: did you torque the bolts properly? Final torque spec is only 132 inch/lbs (11 ft/lbs). Should be tightened in three stages in a specific pattern. Did you use the recommended GM Vortec gasket set (89017465)? SD warns against over-torquing the bolts.
I honestly do not have any idea how improperly torquing a intake that's seated correctly could warp it that badly. Had to have come out of the box that way.
You'd have to have a washer or something else under the intake ports causing them to bend the intake.
And honestly, cast aluminum is less likely to bend as it is to shatter the corner that's under tension and crack a piece off.
I would still try to contact SD though. If you can prove that it looks like a manufacturer defect they might replace it for you. Just be honest and tell them you just took it out of the box. Maybe you'll get lucky.
I think it was installed improperly or the bolt bottomed out. Those Vortec bases have the illusion that the area around the mounting bolt holes looks bulged out so you see less of a gap adjacent to them near the valve cover gasket, etc.
It’s coming off either way as I know I’m going to have nightmares with oil leaks out the rear, once it’s off I will take a look at it closer as well as contact sd. I purchased their bolts and also followed their directions with supplied torque numbers and sequence and followed those procedures. I’ll also check to see if this can somehow be installed incorrectly idk how that’s possible and still get bolt holes to line up but I guess it’s possible as I’m not perfect when it come to anything.
Okay so I got the car running today after readjusting the valves. Cam sounds great and I’m excited but also sad lmfao! With this intake leak the rpms just shoot way up so no sense in trying to hear it too long as it’ll never idle right with this leak. I’ll be tearing it down ASAP to look at this issue but I have a question to ask. Car needs to be movable to get some contracting work done on my house next weekend. I want to reach out to scoggin but I feel it’s going to be a stretch to get a replacement and I refuse to spend another 400 on a mediocre intake. If it is in fact warped and not installed incorrectly would I be able to use a gasket sealing product to seal the intake without issue?
Back with an update on this issue. Pulled the intake this morning and also pulled the oil pressure sender adapter, reinstalled the intake and torqued to spec and no more gap on the driver side gasket. Looks like it will seal fine now. I did however install it incorrectly, the vortec oil sending unit adaptor interferes with the manifold when torqueing it in place. I missed this as I tightened the intake and that's what caused the intake to not sit flat. I now have another issue with the intake due to my incorrect installation procedures which leads me to ask for any insight on the possibly issues this intake may run into by just sending it. My thoughts are to jb weld the crack and sand it down enough for the runner to sit where it needs. I have it in the machine shop now and will be looking for a product to try and put on the intake before i take it home and start to put back on. The underside of the intake has no cracks only what is shown in the photos. Thanks guys any input is appreciated.
89fast5oh, I don’t need your kinda negativity in my life! Hahaha. Thanks I’ll keep that in mind
He's right though. Mind you, I do disagree with the throwing out part, but I would definitely consider having someone weld it. Have someone, or yourself if you are experienced, dremel the line of the crack in the aluminum, then have an experienced welder tig weld the area shut. It's not difficult to do, an experienced welder can fix that small of a crack in twenty minutes...
He's right though. Mind you, I do disagree with the throwing out part, but I would definitely consider having someone weld it. Have someone, or yourself if you are experienced, dremel the line of the crack in the aluminum, then have an experienced welder tig weld the area shut. It's not difficult to do, an experienced welder can fix that small of a crack in twenty minutes...
- Rob
Oh forsure it’s the best way, no questioning that at all. Def not throwing it out tho I’d drive it to that guys house with this crack before I ever just throw my money away.
12-01-2020, 11:53 PM
