Vinscully50

So I may be able to get a remanufactured Chevy 350 truck engine for dirt cheap. A friend of my dad's brought it two years ago and planned to drop it in his early 92 K5 Blazer but life got in the way and the project is on hold. He's willing to sell me the motor for a few hundred dollars. He said it's a remanufactured crate engine from Jegs that's never been fired up. It's been oiled and crank still turns with cheater bar.

I have a very worn and tired TPI 305 in my 1986 Camaro IROC Z. The 700R4 has been fully rebuilt, I have a full Hooker exhaust system (shorter headers, Y-Pipe and Muffler) and my 3.70 rear end was very recently rebuilt. I also have a Walbro Fuel Pump, new Sending Unit, New Brakes, Rebuilt stock rear suspension (will do front when engine is out of the car), new ECM.

From what I know the engine has 8.5 compression and the 76cc heads.

My plain is to do a mild Cam upgrade (I was thinking one of the Summit Racing Brand Flat Tappets) and rebuilding my 305 TPI heads and use them in place of the 76cc heads.

I also want to upgrade the fuel injectors. I see a lot of TPI builds use 24lb injectors. Should I just pay the slightly extra for 24lb or use the slightly cheaper 22lb? I know my 305 has 19lb.

My plan is to probably have me and a buddy install the cam. Swap the 350 with the mild cam and my 305 TPI set up.

Then slowly port and rebuild the cylinder heads ourselves (take our time) then a few weeks later swap on the rebuilt TPI heads. How should I rebuild the heads? I say a lot of people recommend porting the intake valves to 1.94. What about the Exhaust? Also what valve, spring and lifter kits should I use?

I don't need a 300+ horsepower motor. I don't need a roller cam. If this motor makes 250 horsepower and provides to be a decent daily driver for a few years that's fine. 10 years down the road I can pull the motor and rebuilt it as a 383 stroker with roller cam. Right now a mild daily driver motor is fine.

WildCard600

I don't know about any of the rest of that stuff, but make sure you check to see what combustion chambers your 305 heads have. Don't want to bump the compression super high and be pinging like crazy on anything but race fuel.


http://www.73-87.com/chevy_ids/sbheads.htm

8Mike9

Well, you really need to get a look at the pistons, most likely dished 4 valve relief, thing is your 305 heads will increase CR, but limit airflow as-is. Just something to think about, so now what to do with the heads? Depends on whether you need to get by smog laws or not. But, with a 64cc head, you can get to the 9.1/2 CR, cam should be mild-assume you have a roller cam?

Just match parts with what you have, don't try to out guess the engines capabilities. It will cost a few bucks for another set of heads, but I'm 100% sure you'll be happier with the outcome. Now I know you can port the 305 heads to flow better, and that's an option if you can do it, if not then look to aftermarket heads.

8Mike9

Also, since you posted in the TPI forum, you have to understand TPI as-is doesn't make HP up high, more of a low to mid range intake set up.

Vinscully50

I'm in Florida no smog laws.

I know aftermarket heads are better but even the cheapest sets seem to run $1600-$2000. Right now I rather just have a stock engine and get performance 5-10 years down the road.

I'm not sure what the pistons are. From what I was told the motor is a 195 horsepower stock replacement motor meant for late 80s-early 90s Chevy truck.

I think for now it might be fun learning more about cylinder heads and doing a mild rebuild on them. Like I said, low performance motor not a race car. When I have more disposable income in the future I will buy a nice pair of AFRs or something.

Vinscully50

I'm use to that with my LB9. I'm just looking for a daily driver engine.

Vinscully50

I'm assuming mine is the 86-91 EFI, swirl port, stat wagon. It only lists intake and exhaust 1.84 1.5001. CC just has a -

8t2 z-chev

AFAIK,TPI never used the swirl port heads-only TBI and carb used those.If that replacement engine was meant for a light duty truck(such as a K5 blazer) it should have #193 swirl port heads and something like 9.3:1 CR.The heavier rated trucks had the 76cc and 8.5 CR. The #193 heads get poo-pooed for alleged poor performance at over 4500 rpm,but if they are fresh,i'd be tempted to try them and see how they work Edit:if that engine is '87 up design,the center intake bolts are different angle than '86- back intakes

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Check the new engine. If it's the typical low dollar GM crate 350, it could pretty easily be the old 2pc rear main seal engine, with perimeter bolt valve covers, etc. That would complicate things a bit, since 86 is a 1pc rms. Also check the location of the dipstick tube. If it's not on the same side as your existing engine, you'll need headers. If it's a 1pc rms block, it'll have the dipstick in the right spot, and it'll most likely be machined for a roller cam. Aside from the cost difference, there's not much reason to run a flat tappet cam. Roller cams have been the standard for decades for good reason. I'd spend the extra money just to avoid longevity problems.

8Mike9

Okay, but look at this, what is the cost to rebuild the heads you have?

Now look at something the the old SR torquers, etc, after market doesn't always have to be Al AFR's, but better than you have and ready to run and out dow a set of 305 heads bolted onto a 4inch bore block

I don't live in a high income area, so will give you this to ponder.

Years ago I ported a set of L98 heads, a few months ago I took them to my machine shop, all said and done I spent 480 bucks for the whole works.
'
Yes, AM heads would make more sense, but just wanted to see how these will perform, compare the cost of rebuilding yours, vs AM heads..World Products makes good stuff, ProForm if you're up to spending some $$ and be under a grand, you have the find the "ready to run" builders who take the heads and make them work.

ProForm out of the box "fully assembled" is just that...the pushrods don't clear the castings, the seats and valve are not cut..all new stuff, but won't work out of the box.

Okay, so let's forget about 1000 dollar heads and get back to what you have...are your heads fresh? or are they tired? I/e new springs, valve job, resurface them, guides? Then you have to deal with the smaller vlaves that a 305 uses and put them on a 4inch bore 350. So, even if you rebuilt the heads (assuming it was needed), you still are sucking and blowing air out of a straw.

Just my thoughts.

8Mike9

Oh heck, because I'm the nice guy I am, if you are close to me, I'll give you a set of L98 -083 heads. They're complete, just send them to the shop instead of your 305 heads.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Change your front springs while the engine is still in the car. The weight of the engine will assist in this.
Forget doing anything with those old cylinder heads. It's just not worth it. Take the heads off the 350 and start the detective work - what's there for pistons, how far are they down in the hole, oversize, dish volume, etc. Then do the math to figure what you really need for good heads and the proper gasket to get a .040" quench and appropriate compression ratio. Sell the heads that came off and put the money towards the new heads. You will be miles ahead.
I think it was Drew that said it best, "spend your money on UPgrading - not DOWNgrading!"

8Mike9

Quench is really a non issue with dished pistons, there's what. about a 3/8th'1/2 inch of the piston that works on quench?

Problem is his heads/pistons on his quench will be right...issue is with the factory pistons. Only real option with pistons is to go with a good one...around 500/600, or go hyper flat tops and adjust the Quench with the head gasket. Thing is with hypers you almost have to have the block bored, they are so sensitive to ring gaps. Yes, they are inexpensive, but a stock piston will take more abuse from the top ring after ball honing the bore(withing reason) and not close up and take the top of the piston out.

I say, and think the pistons in his engine are the same ones used in our 350s, just the heads are different. Seems he's budget minded and nothing wrong with that, I really think he can get buy and be happy with the right heads.

Vinscully50

If you are serious and I pay for shipping, would you be willing to send them back east?

Vinscully50

You got it man. In a couple of weeks I'm going to place an order with Rockauto for everything I need.

8Mike9

Sure, but by the time and $$ to have them packed and shipped, you'll be in the hole. Are there no pick and pull parts places near you?

Do this if you don't want to venture out with a a few tools, find out from your local UPS store and see what it would cost to give them two hunks of iron and send them to me at the 95361 zipcode.

Pick and pull looking better all the time

I mean I'll do it, but you'll be upside down on the deal before it even starts,

Vinscully50

There are pick and pull places but not a single 350. I've been looking for a year with no luck. One had a C4 Corvette and the L98 was gone in a day. Another had a C1500 and same story the 350 was gone within a day. The three pick and pull places near me are 90% 90s Honda Civics, early 2000s Pontiac Grand Prixs, 6 Cylinder Explorers, old Nissan Trucks. Lots of 3.8L Chevys but no 350s. I've left my number with all of them and told me to call when they get a 350 in and I've gotten no calls. I've put Wanted ads on Craigslist and only got one call about an engine, an already built racing 350 that the guy wanted like $5000 for. Other than that I just got calls of people trying to sell me already completed cars.

Do you know the size and weight of the cylinder heads? That would help the most.

Tootie Pang

iTrader: (2)

How do you have a username of Vinscully and NOT live in the Los Angeles area? I was all set to direct you to Dyno Don's listing for his mildly built 350 long block ready to drop in. But Florida? No can do!

Vinscully50

Haha. I'm orignally from New Jersey. My late grandfather was a huge Brooklyn Dodgers fan and was always mad the team left. In the late 2000s before he passed, me and my dad signed up for MLB so we can watch Dodgers games and he can here Vin Scully again. Vin Scully quickly became my favorite announcer and I followed the Dodgers closely (still do) until Vin retired. Just listening to Dodgers games even when they were losing was amazing. I'm mostly a Yankees fan and still follow the Yankees-Rangers-Giants. I don't like Florida much and want out of this state.
Anyway, hopefully one day I will make it to Chavez Revine for a game. I have a Clayton Kershaw T-shirt I wear all the time. Sadly, few people here know who he is, save for the guys in my MSBL league. College Football is the big sport down here by far.

How much would Dyno Don charge for shipping?

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

NO swirl ports were ever 76cc. They were all around 64-66cc. The HD trucks had a different piston with larger valve reliefs.

That being said TPI works very well with swirl port heads.

8t2 z-chev

Yep,found that when trying to find what swirl port heads were the 76cc version...

8Mike9

Gotta be about 50lbs each I'd guess? There's some shops that are buying the ProComp Al heads, doing the PR relieve on them and valves/seats. I seem to recall around 1000 for a set with excellent reviews.

8Mike9

Here, check the folks mentioned in this thread:

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...#post-13449725

Vinscully50

How much is done to them? Do they just need springs, lifters, etc and are ready to drop in? If it costs $100-$200 to ship that may still be a good option. I looked up the World's Products heads and they seem to have a decent set of Iron Heads for just over $800. That's probably my other option.
If your heads still need some work, my friend who is a Dealership tech wants to try doing the work himself. He's torn down plenty of engines and replaced head gaskets but never ported or done heads himself.

Vinscully50

Thanks I will give them a look.

Vinscully50

Ok, so I talked to my dad's friend over the phone. He said the motor is a Jegs Crate engine largely meant for a early 90s C1500 with TBI. He said it's a $1800 or so engine that is built to C1500 spec and meant for a truck fleet that needs a quick replacement motor. Which probably explains the 76cc heads. The motor is a 1-piece rear main seal. He is willing to sell it to me for way less than $1000 since he knows I need the motor and is a good friend of my dad. He brought it just because he wanted a cheap motor for his K5 Blazer. I'll try to get over the his place next week since he lives over an hour away.

The only other thing I was looking at Jegs has a L31 replacement crate engine with Vortec heads for $1600. I am assuming I just need a different intake manifold base to get the TPI to work but it has a roller cam, Vortec heads and 1 piece rear main seal.

8Mike9

Couple of things..

The L31 with Votec heads, there used to be someone, I don't recall who, but searching this forum will find the results (maybe SDPC?) made a Vortec TPI base, unsure if they still do.

The Jegs block may be roller block anyways, I/e have the valley machines for the dog bones and standoffs for the spider for factory roller lifters, even if it's a flat tappet cam.

What are the casting numbers on your heads on the Jegs engine?

The heads I have will need everything, they have about 180K miles on them. I had another set of L98 heads that I had ported years ago, so took them to the shop for seats, valves and springs and surfacing, the guides were fine. My heads I pulled didn't have enough margin left in the valves to grind, guides were going to need replaced or inserts. It ran me just under $480.00,

Unless your friend has the ability to do a valve job (will be needed with new valves anyways) and replace the guides or install inserts and resurface them, I think you'd just be wiser spending the money on the WP heads.

But, if you really want to take a chance, I don't need them, they were destined for the scrap pile anyways.

8t2 z-chev

replacement for a c1500 should be the "high compression" version. If you want to upgrade the heads,consider Dart"IronEagle" heads-they are heavy,but very nicely made in the US,work great and are quite cheap

Tootie Pang

iTrader: (2)

Not a bad idea! You can throw a cam in there while you are at it.

The Dyno Don engine is a great deal and the perfect choice for you but getting it Florida will cost way too much. Unless someone is driving out there and can bring it to you.

mr cribb

I can answer this one, because I just did this, but the 86-91 Corvette TPI intake is drilled correctly for the vortec bolt pattern.

8Mike9

???

I don't think so, unless we are not comparing apples to apples?

The Vortec heads I know about have like 1/2 the intake bolts? (have to go look) intake bolts, the '87-92's (LT1 I think after that) use a canted hole for the inner 4 intake bolts.

Scoggin Dickey? Used to make an intake for Vortec heads for those running a TPI, many made a carbed intake for those heads.

mr cribb

I have the Edelbrock 60879 heads that required the OEM to be redrilled, or skip straight to the Corvette intake I previously mentioned above. I bought new vortec intake bolts, and I used all the places available/required. At last knowledge SD part was $400, I scored my Corvette intake for $85 used obviously.

8Mike9

The 60879 heads are not the same as Vortec heads, nor is the Corvette intake

mr cribb

I admit I misspoke, they share a similar bolt pattern as the vortec heads.

8Mike9

Well, ok...I'm not here to argue, but hey, you have a very nice set of heads you used. I'm guessing since you used the Vette intake you had to oblong out the inner 4 holes?

Vinscully50

Tell me everything you did. I am leaning towards this and I think it will be the most economical in the line run. I found that SD TPI intake base that Mike is talking about. What injectors should I use? I already have a Walbro fuel pump. Entire fuel system has been rebuilt expect for the injectors and fuel rail. Would a set of Bosch 24lb injectors work well? My 700R4 has also been rebuilt and upgraded so that's another plus. Would my Hooker shorty headers bolt right up to it or do I have to get different headers?

8Mike9

Let me help out with a few things I know.

If you get Vortec heads, you will have to use a Vortec intake.

You don't want/need 24/lb hr injectors, contact Southbay.

You'd be money ahead with Darts/etc and using your current intake and just bolting it together, than you would getting a fresh set of Vortecs and intake....so price it out.

I don't know about the exhaust, that's for you to research.

The member you quoted did mis-speak, as he used Edelbrock heads for '8?-92, not Vortec heads.

But, if you have your hands on the Vortec base, then by all means a fresh set of Vortecs may be right up your alley.

It's all about your budget.

mr cribb

I have merely loosely bolted the intake to the motor, because the car it came with is too rusty to safely operate on public roads, the engine is still on a stand and I received it as a long block.

The specs I know about are as follows: .030 2 bolt main roller block, cam and lifter kit is a comp cams kit #K08-305-8 which is a computer controlled version that is quoted to be a 1800-5800 rpm range of operation. Edelbrock 60879 aluminum heads, that I plan to top off with some 1.6 roller rockers.

I can get a clearer picture of the bolt alignment tomorrow and share it with everyone. I very recently just bought a rust free 91 Z28 that I plan to put the motor in along with the 5 speed the Iroc has.

mr cribb

86-91 Corvette intake on top of the Edelbrock 60879 heads


I haven’t done any modifications for the intake to fit.

cuisinartvette

cyl head exchange usually has rebuilt sets of heads for a few hundred a pair if cheap is what youre after. google them