Building a TPI 350 L98 / Vortec
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Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Building a TPI 350 L98 / Vortec
Hi all,
Not sure if this is the right section for this... Wanted to make sure I've got my ducks in a row here. I am new to this and have learned from the net and some helpful friends. Suggestions are welcome.
This is a daily driven street car, just want to liven it up a bit. I guess this is kind of a "budget" build.
Build so far includes:
*906 Vortec heads
*Jegs 3/8" Screw in rocker studs
*PAC 1218 Springs
*Alex's 11/32" valve beehive retainers
*Comp 08-502-08 cam
*Comp XE 1.5 Roller rockers
*SDPC vortec TPI manifold
*Ported SLP Runners
*New Gaskets & seals
*New timing chain
This is all backed by a T56 & 3.27 gears. Have the 3.70's and will be switching after build is done. Will also be port matching new runners to IM and Plenum in the future.
Springs are rated 130lbs at 1.800" install height. OEM vortec install height is 1.700". Installing as is should increase seat pressure to around 140-150 I would estimate.
I have also looked at the Lunati Voodoo 270/278 roller cam, wasn't sure what rocker they use to give this cam its lift rating? Anyone?
Suggestions welcome!
Thanks
Not sure if this is the right section for this... Wanted to make sure I've got my ducks in a row here. I am new to this and have learned from the net and some helpful friends. Suggestions are welcome.
This is a daily driven street car, just want to liven it up a bit. I guess this is kind of a "budget" build.
Build so far includes:
*906 Vortec heads
*Jegs 3/8" Screw in rocker studs
*PAC 1218 Springs
*Alex's 11/32" valve beehive retainers
*Comp 08-502-08 cam
*Comp XE 1.5 Roller rockers
*SDPC vortec TPI manifold
*Ported SLP Runners
*New Gaskets & seals
*New timing chain
This is all backed by a T56 & 3.27 gears. Have the 3.70's and will be switching after build is done. Will also be port matching new runners to IM and Plenum in the future.
Springs are rated 130lbs at 1.800" install height. OEM vortec install height is 1.700". Installing as is should increase seat pressure to around 140-150 I would estimate.
I have also looked at the Lunati Voodoo 270/278 roller cam, wasn't sure what rocker they use to give this cam its lift rating? Anyone?
Suggestions welcome!
Thanks
Last edited by Keoman; 08-02-2013 at 11:21 PM.
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Car: 1991 Formula Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 SB TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Stockers
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
I built a vortec headed nova a few years back, I did not check your cam specs, however if you get close to .500 lift on either side with vortec heads, the pushrod guide has to be extended or the pushrod could hit the head. Just takes a dremel tool or die grinder and a few minutes and legenthen where the pushrod comes through the head.
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Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
One thing I would recommend is that you take a look at porting the base before you put it on the motor. The Vortec TPI base is known to flow very poorly and it, along with most unported runners, will be a big bottleneck in the overall airflow path.
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Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
Thanks for the info!!
I believe running 1.6 rockers requires ovaling out the pushrod guides also correct? My cam is rated .570/.565. Pretty good lift.
I will start into porting the base before I install it. Thanks for the tip. I'll probably end up with SLP runners, But still saving as I am purchasing in steps.
I believe running 1.6 rockers requires ovaling out the pushrod guides also correct? My cam is rated .570/.565. Pretty good lift.
I will start into porting the base before I install it. Thanks for the tip. I'll probably end up with SLP runners, But still saving as I am purchasing in steps.
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Car: 1991 Formula Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 SB TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Stockers
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
Definitely extend those push rod guides!! You are gonna be closer to .600 lift with 1.6 rockers. What is your reasoning for running such a HOT cam and cast iron heads? I would look into an aluminum set, dissipate heat better, can use a little lower octane fuel. With so much lift, I would be a little tentative with piston clearance too. That is a lot of lift!
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Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
Definitely extend those push rod guides!! You are gonna be closer to .600 lift with 1.6 rockers. What is your reasoning for running such a HOT cam and cast iron heads? I would look into an aluminum set, dissipate heat better, can use a little lower octane fuel. With so much lift, I would be a little tentative with piston clearance too. That is a lot of lift!
Reason for the vortec's is budget. 100$ + valve job & spring seats vs 6 or 7 times that for decent alum heads.
Interesting about valve piston clearance. Out of all the people I have talked to about this build, you are the first to mention this. Anyone else?
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Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
I didn't know about the issue with the pushrods contacting the heads with higher lift at the time, so I bolted my heads on as-is. With my ~.500 lift cam (with the 1.6 rockers), my pushrods were nowhere close to rubbing, so I'm not sure that this is an issue with all of the vortec heads, but certainly if you're going to run that kind of lift, you're going to want to bolt them on and check, or just go ahead and clearance them beforehand.
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Car: 1991 Formula Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 SB TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Stockers
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
I didn't know about the issue with the pushrods contacting the heads with higher lift at the time, so I bolted my heads on as-is. With my ~.500 lift cam (with the 1.6 rockers), my pushrods were nowhere close to rubbing, so I'm not sure that this is an issue with all of the vortec heads, but certainly if you're going to run that kind of lift, you're going to want to bolt them on and check, or just go ahead and clearance them beforehand.
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Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
In the Vortec Nova I built, I had a .488 lift cam with spray and they came too close for comfort for me. It may be different in different casting years, not sure. Its such an easy thing to do, mine as well knock it out. As for the lift, I personally clay engines with lift over .550. Built about a dozen hot motors in my day. I am a "Safe than Sorry" kind of guy when building.
1.5's will put me at .535/.531
I didn't know about the issue with the pushrods contacting the heads with higher lift at the time, so I bolted my heads on as-is. With my ~.500 lift cam (with the 1.6 rockers), my pushrods were nowhere close to rubbing, so I'm not sure that this is an issue with all of the vortec heads, but certainly if you're going to run that kind of lift, you're going to want to bolt them on and check, or just go ahead and clearance them beforehand.
I will take some out before hand. Not real hard to do and I would sure regret not doing it if rubbing was the case.
So I'm not mistaken, this is the area that needs enlarged.
Last edited by Keoman; 07-03-2013 at 09:32 AM.
#10
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Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
In the Vortec Nova I built, I had a .488 lift cam with spray and they came too close for comfort for me. It may be different in different casting years, not sure. Its such an easy thing to do, mine as well knock it out. As for the lift, I personally clay engines with lift over .550. Built about a dozen hot motors in my day. I am a "Safe than Sorry" kind of guy when building.
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Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
Just stumbled on your vortec thread Jim, using a lot of the same parts!
Thanks for doing the write up and taking pictures! Lots of good info in there!!
Thanks for doing the write up and taking pictures! Lots of good info in there!!
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
I would run the CC304 cam like they used in the Something New, Something OLD TPI 350 Vortec buildup that made over 400 hp and nearly 500 tq.
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Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
Just read through the build, they put quite a bit of work into that engine!
The 304 cam looks just slightly more aggressive than a 93' - 95' LT1 Cam. I can't pretend to want to follow their build, however. Their build is far more efficient than mine. I will need compensation from the cam to raise my numbers.
Jeremy said it well,
The 304 cam looks just slightly more aggressive than a 93' - 95' LT1 Cam. I can't pretend to want to follow their build, however. Their build is far more efficient than mine. I will need compensation from the cam to raise my numbers.
Jeremy said it well,
It doesnt matter.
No one here will take the time or spend the money to do it right like they did.
People have no concept of what blueprinting an engine really means.
U index the lifter bores, align hone cam and crank, etc.
Thats why when you buy something from Lingenfelter it costs so friggin much, all this has been done, whereas 95% of street builds(prolly more) dont go to these lengths.
Engines setup like that will last longer and make more power than a "rebuild" what most people do.
Either way, it seems impressive thus far, of course I dont care what it does on a stand, I want to see RWHP in a car. Also use a real accesory drive and not an electric water pump.
And throw away the DFI that a stock ecm can do better than.
later
Jeremy
No one here will take the time or spend the money to do it right like they did.
People have no concept of what blueprinting an engine really means.
U index the lifter bores, align hone cam and crank, etc.
Thats why when you buy something from Lingenfelter it costs so friggin much, all this has been done, whereas 95% of street builds(prolly more) dont go to these lengths.
Engines setup like that will last longer and make more power than a "rebuild" what most people do.
Either way, it seems impressive thus far, of course I dont care what it does on a stand, I want to see RWHP in a car. Also use a real accesory drive and not an electric water pump.
And throw away the DFI that a stock ecm can do better than.
later
Jeremy
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Car: 1991 Formula Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 SB TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Stockers
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
I think you are on a much better "Streetable" path this way, but all in all its your call. Keep us updated on how that puppy runs!
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Car: 1985 El Camino Choo Choo
Engine: L31 Crate 350 w/ TPI
Transmission: GN 200-4r
Axle/Gears: GN 8.5 3.73
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
one other item to consider is a newer style heater control valve. These allow the water to circulate back to the radiator through the heads and intake even when the thermostat is closed. Helps to prevent overheating. Part is used on Vortec trucks. PN is Murray 74781, for a 97 C1500 p/u with 350.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...RWD&vi=1031555
Using this will eliminate the need to install a bypass hose from the front of the intake to the water pump. They are a pain to install!.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...RWD&vi=1031555
Using this will eliminate the need to install a bypass hose from the front of the intake to the water pump. They are a pain to install!.
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Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
one other item to consider is a newer style heater control valve. These allow the water to circulate back to the radiator through the heads and intake even when the thermostat is closed. Helps to prevent overheating. Part is used on Vortec trucks. PN is Murray 74781, for a 97 C1500 p/u with 350.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...RWD&vi=1031555
Using this will eliminate the need to install a bypass hose from the front of the intake to the water pump. They are a pain to install!.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...RWD&vi=1031555
Using this will eliminate the need to install a bypass hose from the front of the intake to the water pump. They are a pain to install!.
I'm not sure I understand why you would want this. Not for the sake of argument, but for understanding. What makes the cooling system different with vortec heads vs L98 heads? My cooling system works 100% right now in any temperature I have put it through so far. Kindof a "If it aint broke, dont fix it" thing i guess.
Is that heater control valve necessary or just "better"?
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Car: 1985 El Camino Choo Choo
Engine: L31 Crate 350 w/ TPI
Transmission: GN 200-4r
Axle/Gears: GN 8.5 3.73
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
Interesting.
I'm not sure I understand why you would want this. Not for the sake of argument, but for understanding. What makes the cooling system different with vortec heads vs L98 heads? My cooling system works 100% right now in any temperature I have put it through so far. Kindof a "If it aint broke, dont fix it" thing i guess.
Is that heater control valve necessary or just "better"?
I'm not sure I understand why you would want this. Not for the sake of argument, but for understanding. What makes the cooling system different with vortec heads vs L98 heads? My cooling system works 100% right now in any temperature I have put it through so far. Kindof a "If it aint broke, dont fix it" thing i guess.
Is that heater control valve necessary or just "better"?
#20
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Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
Might not be as good as installing the bypass, but wouldnt drilling 1/16" holes in the stat flange also get rid of "hot pockets" while the stat is closed?
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Car: 91 Firebird convertible
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73's
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
sorry to step into your thread but i have a question, i got a 350 from a 99 van with 75k miles, im getting alex springs for the heads, and hsr system; my question is what cam do you recommend and what rockers, I want a street friendly car with some punch, i appreciate all imput thanx in advanced
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Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
I ended up getting the Comp 502 cam.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-08-502-8
BUT I am still running long tube TPI. Whereas you going to use a HSR, this cam probably wont be optimized for your setup. You can probably run a lot more aggressive camshaft. Perhaps someone with more knowledge will chime in.
Are you using Beehive or double springs? Link?
I would STRONGLY recommend installing screw in studs. Its extremely straight forward and you'd be surprised how easy the old ones come out.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-08-502-8
BUT I am still running long tube TPI. Whereas you going to use a HSR, this cam probably wont be optimized for your setup. You can probably run a lot more aggressive camshaft. Perhaps someone with more knowledge will chime in.
Are you using Beehive or double springs? Link?
I would STRONGLY recommend installing screw in studs. Its extremely straight forward and you'd be surprised how easy the old ones come out.
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Car: 91 Firebird convertible
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73's
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
im using alex's valve spring kit, and how bout roller rockers? I dont have a clue what srew in studs are im very new to heads im just doing what alot of guys are doing here and following some of the stuff they do.
Last edited by Juan_Garza; 08-02-2013 at 11:06 PM.
#24
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Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
I used Comp 1417-16
1.5 rollers
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1417-16
EDIT
These rockers are junk. Despite great oil pressure and correct valve geometry, rocker to pushrod cup chewed its self away in a matter of hours of running the engine.
Use Comp 1617-16 full roller set.
1.5 rollers
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1417-16
EDIT
These rockers are junk. Despite great oil pressure and correct valve geometry, rocker to pushrod cup chewed its self away in a matter of hours of running the engine.
Use Comp 1617-16 full roller set.
Last edited by Keoman; 08-31-2014 at 05:35 PM.
#25
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Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Re: Building a 350 Vortec, please review my parts!
Not sure why but the Machine Shop refused to pull the rocker studs out of the heads. Said they had broken all the heads they had tried. Even showed me the last set they tried.
15 minutes and an impact and I had them out no problem...
Also reamed the pushrod guides with a drill bit. Took them out 1/8" on the diameter.
Also did a little opening up on the runners. Port matched the plenum also.
15 minutes and an impact and I had them out no problem...
Also reamed the pushrod guides with a drill bit. Took them out 1/8" on the diameter.
Also did a little opening up on the runners. Port matched the plenum also.
Last edited by Keoman; 08-02-2013 at 11:20 PM.
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