Help me build a "commuter" L98
#1
Help me build a "commuter" L98
The car is a 1992 Formula. Originally was a 350 car. When I got it, it smoked like crazy and the oil pressure went. Motor is out now and going to the builder to be done. Currently the car has a TPI 305 in it.
A little about the car. 4 wheel disc brakes, 2200 stall, 3.23 rear, SLP 1 3/4" headers, Random Tech 3" cat, Flowmaster exhaust.
I drive this car 65 miles round trip every day to work.
Now for the question to the board: The motor is being rebuilt so it is a blank slate. Any suggestions for cam, rockers, etc.
This is not a drag car, but a fun to drive commuter.
One other question. How do Crane roller rockers hold up for long periods of time (75-100k miles)?
A little about the car. 4 wheel disc brakes, 2200 stall, 3.23 rear, SLP 1 3/4" headers, Random Tech 3" cat, Flowmaster exhaust.
I drive this car 65 miles round trip every day to work.
Now for the question to the board: The motor is being rebuilt so it is a blank slate. Any suggestions for cam, rockers, etc.
This is not a drag car, but a fun to drive commuter.
One other question. How do Crane roller rockers hold up for long periods of time (75-100k miles)?
#2
Supreme Member
iTrader: (20)
Re: Help me build a "commuter" L98
They aluminum rockers or steel? I'd run steel for long term duty. comp mags are cheap and durable.
For mild L98, I'd do full bolt on TPI up top (meaning aftermarket big tube runners and base), Mild cam like a LPE 211, Comp's 212/218, maybe as high as 218/224 on the stock heads. Have the stock heads cleaned up, valve job, new springs suitable for the cam, guides cut down for the cam lift and screw in studs. Can even have the heads mildly ported if you want.
zero deck the block, run a typical .040" thick gasket. Shoot for 9.5 to 1 compression like stock L98s.
Do some light tuning via your own chip tuning and your good to go. Being speed density it will need tuned with bolt ons,exhaust, and cam setup on fresh bottom end. Not too difficult being a mild cammed setup on stockish heads.
Thats a solid budget build that will do bottom 13's in good air and capable of high 12's on great 60 ft.
IF you have abit more money to spend, you can get abit more crazy and still be VERY driveable to go 65miles a day...easily.
Step up from above would be vortec TPI and vortec heads from scoggin dickey. similar cam sizes, but the heads will make a great deal more power than stock L98's. Thats a better bet since you will have same money tied up in the stock heads, might as well go vortecs brand new with new components for under 600 bucks a pair.
Step up more with a greater budget? Start thinking aluminum heads (AFR 180's/195s/Trickflow 175's, 195's, brodix Ik180's, dart 180's/profiler 195's), XFI260-268, same bolt on TPI or go short runner HSR/Superram if you can find one. Make even more power still with the higher lift XFI type cams but still be driveable.. More tuning required but very potent build. Shoot for 10-10.25 to 1 compression and you will love it.
For mild L98, I'd do full bolt on TPI up top (meaning aftermarket big tube runners and base), Mild cam like a LPE 211, Comp's 212/218, maybe as high as 218/224 on the stock heads. Have the stock heads cleaned up, valve job, new springs suitable for the cam, guides cut down for the cam lift and screw in studs. Can even have the heads mildly ported if you want.
zero deck the block, run a typical .040" thick gasket. Shoot for 9.5 to 1 compression like stock L98s.
Do some light tuning via your own chip tuning and your good to go. Being speed density it will need tuned with bolt ons,exhaust, and cam setup on fresh bottom end. Not too difficult being a mild cammed setup on stockish heads.
Thats a solid budget build that will do bottom 13's in good air and capable of high 12's on great 60 ft.
IF you have abit more money to spend, you can get abit more crazy and still be VERY driveable to go 65miles a day...easily.
Step up from above would be vortec TPI and vortec heads from scoggin dickey. similar cam sizes, but the heads will make a great deal more power than stock L98's. Thats a better bet since you will have same money tied up in the stock heads, might as well go vortecs brand new with new components for under 600 bucks a pair.
Step up more with a greater budget? Start thinking aluminum heads (AFR 180's/195s/Trickflow 175's, 195's, brodix Ik180's, dart 180's/profiler 195's), XFI260-268, same bolt on TPI or go short runner HSR/Superram if you can find one. Make even more power still with the higher lift XFI type cams but still be driveable.. More tuning required but very potent build. Shoot for 10-10.25 to 1 compression and you will love it.
#5
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Location: ATX
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Car: Trans am
Engine: 78 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
Re: Help me build a "commuter" L98
i'd think by "commuter" you'd want better gas mileage? aluminum drive shaft and a lower stall converter?
the vortec tpi (not ported) would probably be the best option with ought going too big on the intake keeping a mild cam and keeping the compression higher around 10:1 (i'm assuming you're replacing the pistons), more torque less top end than the tpi already has, thus less fun but mileage would be better
if you don't want better mileage i'd go with his ^ suggestions
the vortec tpi (not ported) would probably be the best option with ought going too big on the intake keeping a mild cam and keeping the compression higher around 10:1 (i'm assuming you're replacing the pistons), more torque less top end than the tpi already has, thus less fun but mileage would be better
if you don't want better mileage i'd go with his ^ suggestions
#6
Re: Help me build a "commuter" L98
So far I am leaning towards using the Crane 2032 cam/springs with stamped roller 1.52 rockers. Having the heads upgraded to screw in studs and cleaned up a little. Cost is preventing my from going vortec route for now, and upgrading the TPI. However, the TPI can always be done at a later date.
Thanks guys for all the replies.
Thanks guys for all the replies.
#7
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Car: 1991 Formula Firebird
Engine: L98 with headers/exhaust
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10-bolt
Re: Help me build a "commuter" L98
The car is a 1992 Formula. Originally was a 350 car. When I got it, it smoked like crazy and the oil pressure went. Motor is out now and going to the builder to be done. Currently the car has a TPI 305 in it.
A little about the car. 4 wheel disc brakes, 2200 stall, 3.23 rear, SLP 1 3/4" headers, Random Tech 3" cat, Flowmaster exhaust.
I drive this car 65 miles round trip every day to work.
Now for the question to the board: The motor is being rebuilt so it is a blank slate. Any suggestions for cam, rockers, etc.
This is not a drag car, but a fun to drive commuter.
One other question. How do Crane roller rockers hold up for long periods of time (75-100k miles)?
A little about the car. 4 wheel disc brakes, 2200 stall, 3.23 rear, SLP 1 3/4" headers, Random Tech 3" cat, Flowmaster exhaust.
I drive this car 65 miles round trip every day to work.
Now for the question to the board: The motor is being rebuilt so it is a blank slate. Any suggestions for cam, rockers, etc.
This is not a drag car, but a fun to drive commuter.
One other question. How do Crane roller rockers hold up for long periods of time (75-100k miles)?
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#8
Re: Help me build a "commuter" L98
I am picking up the motor tomorrow from my engine builder.
Like I posed above, it was a stock rebuild of an L98, Crane 2032 cam and springs. Decided against roller rockers for now due to cost.
Once I get it running in a few weeks, I will post video of it.
Like I posed above, it was a stock rebuild of an L98, Crane 2032 cam and springs. Decided against roller rockers for now due to cost.
Once I get it running in a few weeks, I will post video of it.
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