Brisk

iTrader: (25)

so I'm looking at purchasing a full roller 383 from a engine shop. the shop is including a 205/205 450/450 lift 'computer friendly' cam with this engine and '624' or '882' casting heads.

From what I've read, those are about the worst two choices in heads, and the cam is pretty mild. The good news is the company is willing to build me whatever I'd like and still warranty it.

soo... I'm deciding on which heads and cam combo to use. I've been looking at all types of heads, but I think I'm going to spend the extra bit of cash and purchase a pair of AFR's.. I've been looking at the 180cc (part #918) or the 195cc (part #1040). I'm no engine guru, but from what I can tell the 195's are the best choice for a higher rpm car, and the 180's would be a tad small but make plenty or torque? or am I out to lunch on this??

and as for cam, I'd like to get something with a lopey sound and a good preformer for a street/occasional strip car... something in the XFI series, like a 268.. or is that too small for a 383?

I'd like something that would run well right off the hop, but can really show some potential after tuning..

I'm already supplying a TPIS bigmouth intake, I'd like to keep this tpi.

thanks for the suggestions and tips!

1986Z28OWNER

iTrader: (1)

AFR 195's, 280 XFI, HSR, proven combo, I went with the 292 XFI in mine, with heavily ported brodix heads and a heavily ported HSR

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

280XF1 is popular choice with 383 owners
230/236 .570 lift
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=209&sb=0

If you aren't caught up in the heads sales marketing blurb these 195's are proven performer with good value .
Replace valve spring to suit new cam
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-30400001/

Member 88BlackZ-51 has a good pricing on AFR #1040 195 heads
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...tor-1040s.html

radical82

Just a bit of advice, forget the "sound" of the cam!!!!! That's nothing but a bs consideration for the posers and wannabes!!!!!!!

Cam, heads, intake, ignition, and induction should be considred as a "package" and not picked piecemeal by what other's allege their success or failure with them has been!!!!

I've run Chevy's, Fords, and Mopars both on the track and on the street and found they all require the same thing to go fast.... a WELL PLANNED engine build in which all the selected components compliment each other!!!!! Some detailed studying, a lot of research, and long chats with "real" engine builders is the first course of action... And don't cut the budget short on the machine work, either!!!! Equal deck height on all cylinders is very important, and the "squish" area is probably the most overlooked and most common mistake on a build!!!! I like to run everything at zero deck and establish the CR with the right head gasket and chamber size!!!! I've been out of the engine machine shop stuff for better then 20 years, but the basics are still the basics---quality components, close-to-perfect-as-possible balancing, cleanliness, deburring, and blueprinting EVERY component that goes in the engine is still the best way to ensure performance and longevity!!!! Sure, it takes more time and costs a few bucks as compared to picking off the shelf stuff and slapping it together, but it pays off when it fires and runs!!!! If you don't have enough money to do it right the first time, when you gonna have enough money to do it over??? Don't get caught up in some bogus "gotta have it done in a week" bs, either!!! If you don't have the bucks to do everything the way it should be done, then STOP ON THE BUILD till you save up a few more bucks and you can afford it!!!!!

My current "brand X" project runs 9 flat @ 2550 pounds with a 5 speed--last year was 135 passes, and 60+ already this year---plus some Saturday night street action to boot!!!! It's a best of the best build, Dart block, Brodix heads, crank trigger ignition, CNC'd Brodix heads, and FAST injection and engine control----hi dollar, sure--heck, took 2 years to save up the bucks to build it.......But I wouldn't trade it for a whole flock of OEM block and heads cast iron junk engines!!!

PS--after 135 passes on it's first season, the biggest maintenance items were fresh valve springs and a set of spark plugs!!!!!

As with anything, when building an engine you'll remember the first rate performance long after the sting of parting with a few extra dead Presidents is over!!!!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

If you want to keep TPI, i'd go abit smaller than the 280xfi but the 268 is a touch too small. Its tame for a 383 and wont give you the lopey sound, but will make strong power.

I'd go with something much tighter LSA and around 224 degs duration. It will help keep some top end power in the 5000-5500 range on that 383 with TPI. AFR 195's seem to do best with the 383's but 180's also work well, especially for TPI where you dont need the rpm range of 195's. 180's flow about 260 cfm which is more than all the aftermarket TPI systems save for the FIRST setup. So either head will be limited by the TPI intake anyway unless you do a fair amount of porting.

Either way I'd run a cam around .550 lift to take advantage of the heads flow.

Brisk

iTrader: (25)

thanks for the replies guys.. I'm still looking into purchasing a set of heads.. I'm thinking I'll stay with my original thought of 180cc's for making more torque lower down, looking at a 'new-used' set at the moment.

as for cams, there doesn't seem to be anything between a 268 and a 280, at least not in the XFI series. any other cam suggestions or ideas? the shop I'm working with can custom grind whatever I'd like, or I can just purchase from summit or elsewhere.

radical82

Custom grinds are great--Super Great if you have a real cam tech guy (Comp is my favorite) design it for you. Absolutely no comprimise, all the specs on a custom grind shaft will be exactly what your combination needs!!! Sure, costs a few bucks more but then quality usually does!!!!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

If you wanted a 224/230 XFI series cam, comp will make it. The lobes exist, just need to specify it and they should grind it. Wont cost any more.

Brisk

iTrader: (25)

ok talked to the engine builder a bit more, and they're willing to purchase a comp cam of my choice for no extra charge.

what are some (other) good/proven options out of their catalog (yes I'm still learning about these things, cam selection is still a partial mystery to me!)

thanks again..

85Iroc-Z

iTrader: (4)

I am doing a 383 TPI build as well. I went with the custom grind XFI cam that Orr89RocZ was talking about as well as the AFR 195's.