1970 Buick

iTrader: (2)

I am going to be purchasing this engine or one very similar i the next couple of weeks. http://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint+Engi...34CT1/10002/-1

Question is..can I bolt my TPI system up to this. I realize another type of intake would be better, BUT I love the looks and performance of the TPI system. Mine is mega ported with SLP Runners and old Accel casting base ported. I have read that the TPI works really well i conjunction with the 383. Also, right now I have SLP tri-y headers, do I need something bigger with this set up Oh yea, it is going to be a drag racer and occasional driver.

Blackdog36

iTrader: (3)

I don't see any many mention of the manifold & head bolt pattern so I assume it would be the typical bolt pattern (non vortec). TPI should bolt up. Have you seen this article? Compcam dynoed a 383 with different intakes. Your system would be close to the extrued honed system. http://www.compcams.com/Community/Ar...?ID=1737510521

Have you considered building your own engine? You have a 350 block that you can use. You could save a little money but more importantly I think you would get better components. The blueprint engine comes with a hydraulic flat tappet cam and not roller. Leaving some hp on table with that cam.

Also have you thought about your rear end? With that much power and drag racing, you will need to upgrade stock unit. It might be better to just replace it with bolt in aftermarket.

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

I'm in the whole mess of rebuilding an engine and keeping TPI. A TPI 383 is exactly what I'm looking to build. Though I may supercharge, or turbo charge mine as well which complicates matters. Personally I'd build your own engine. I wasn't sure if I should either until I stripped my junkyard 350 down to the short block. Once I did I realized that they weren't as complicated as I initially thought. Plus as Blackdog36 said, you can save quite a bit of money. You'll have to have the block machined, checked for cracks, etc. but after that your golden. The rest of the assembly is really pretty easy. Just take your time with it.

I'm not anywhere near having my engine ready to drop in, but then again the car is still being torn down for major paint and body work. So I'll get to it later. TPI can work really well with a 383 because the two things both work well to generate massive amounts of torque. That being said, a totally stock TPI system still won't feed the 383 what it really needs to breath. Siamesed runners and a ported plenum would help, but really aftermarket intakes like the FIRST, or Mini-Ram are where you should probably look to get the most out of your engine. The FIRST intake looks very much like the stock TPI setup, so that may appeal to you.

Blackdog36

iTrader: (3)

I agree that FIRST would be best flowing TPI system but looks like he has a pretty good ported system to work with. I don't think it is worth spending $900 on a new intake unless he can sell current setup for some decent $$. From that article, they made great power with an extrued honed TPI setup which I think his system will be close too.

I just bought a FIRST unit with the group purchase deal. Not sure if I will keep 350 or go 383. Let us know how your build turns out.

1970 Buick

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the input. A beefing up of the rear will be a must with the 383. I have done alot of suspension mods but not touched the rear yet. Do you think I can keep my stock computer and just have it tuned professionally? Also will bigger injectors be required? I like the FIRST intake but it does cost alot of coin! I assume I will be able to use most of my old accesories too. Most of my stuff is aftermarket already. I don't know if I will really save much money building an engine myself. I kind of want to keep my stock engine stored incase I ever want to put the car back to it's original condition.

Blackdog36

iTrader: (3)

Yes you can keep stock computer and tune it. You can buy some parts to do it yourself or hopefully find somebody near you to do it. Your current accessories will work. I know that some older blocks/heads have different bracket locations. Should be know no problem with more modern block and heads. Your engine is a 87-92 hydraulic roller generation 1 chevy block.

Larger injectors will be needed. Stocks are 24lb/hr I believe. You will need 36lb/hr for 450 flywheel HP.
http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php4

I know what you mean about keeping stock engine original. Stroking your 350 to a 383 will not change anything external. You would be honing cylinders out a little to put in new stroker pistons, crank and rods. There are lots of people tinkering with 350 and 383 stroker blocks. I would check around in your area at speedshops, newspaper or craigslist to see what you can find. I always see lots of engines for sale at decent price. Have you thought about getting a local shop to build an engine? Might not be cheaper but could get better performance parts. You can always price out your options and decide from there.

1970 Buick

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Blackdog. I am meeting with an engine builder tomorrow morning to get some info. Any idea how long a stock rear could take the stress from the 400hp engine? I am not trying to be cheap, just figuring out a time frame. I am getting married in june and need to watch my budget! I read in another thread that 1.75 headers will be crucial to the new powerplant. My 1 5/8 will leave power on the table.

Blackdog36

iTrader: (3)

Cool, will you be up all night dreaming of the engine?

It's hard to say when stock rear will break. Some people have broken them with mild mods while others are running them behind insane power setups. 400hp seems to be upper limits rear end can withstand before grenading. From my understanding, excessive torque ruins them due to small gear ring size diameter of 7.6". A 383 TPI engine will puts lots of stress on rear end. Having an automatic and not using drag slicks will help prolong its life. You should be ok without beating on it. There are quite a few upgrades you can do to make rear end stronger which could total $1,000. Our cars use specific suspension setup that makes adding stronger rear ends difficult. There are only a few aftermarket rear ends that bolt in and use stock suspension mounts. They will cost $2,500. You can get a 9", 12 bolt or S60 rear end. Moser 9" and 12 bolt can reuse rear stock disc brakes with modifications per Spohns website. The strange 12 bolt and S60 need aftermarket brakes too so more $$ there. Either way, your rear end will eventually need to be beefed up. Some upgrade info is below. Do you have a 9 or 10 bolt rear end? 9 bolts are a little stronger stock but harder to find parts for.
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...dy/Drivetrain/
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...-upgrades.html

Yeah larger headers would help you out. Large tube headers are nice but difficult to fit in our cars. You will have low clearance with them. Favorite shorty style headers seem to be hooker 2055 or a pair made be forum member "dyno don". His look really nice and perform very well.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...-4-header.html

Tell your wife the wedding needs to be postponed until you finish your car. She will understand