SARswmr

I've only had this car for a couple weeks so still learning, but I recently did a couple things to it and now I have more problems. I first changed the thermostat and when doing this proceeded to snapping a bolt on the housing. After drilling and re-tapping and 2 days it's back together. I also bypassed the TB of coolant, put in some water wetter and also changed the fuel filter.

So after this I crank it up and the idle is all jacked up. I reset the timing to about 7*(as close I could get it). I also reset the TPS to .547 Here's what it's doing: when I start it it starts right up but goes to aout 2000rpm and then after a few seconds it comes down to about 900. From there it seems to be searching from about 900-1700. When I drive it there are no problems just at idle. I also keep getting a code 44. It comes on usually at lower RPM's and will go away up at speed 50-55mph. I really don't want to figure out what is wrong by buying new part after new part. This site has been a savior so far just by searching other posts but I'm to the point of needing more advice.

I have taken out the IAC thinking maybe it was the idle problem but I could not get it apart so I just cleaned it and re-instaled it.
By the way the idle problem happens cold and hot.

Any ideas??

Very frustrated,
Tim


Also I can smell fumes so I think it's running rich but getting a lean code? Need some help if anyone has any ideas.

SARswmr

Help......

tpi_roc

Due to the code 44 and the IAC searching so much I'd recommend checking desperatly for vacuum/exhaust leaks. Thats unfortunatly the only thing I can think of right now.

SARswmr

Anywhere particular I should start looking for vacuum leaks? I just got back from picking up a new TPS, IAC, and O2 sensor. Plan on putting these in tonight.

NEW problem: On the way back from Autozone my car started to overheat. I just changed to a 160 deg. stat. yesterday also adjusted water/coolant mixture to about 70 water and 30 coolant and added water wetter. What the ?. Did I do something wrong. I refilled the coolant and started it and ran the heater for a while to circulate it and ensure proper level. It seems as if the thermostat is not opening. Didn't do this before I changed it, I only changed it trying to get a little cooler temp.????

Just to add to the earlier problem. While driving, when I come to a stop light the idle seems ok, then it will drop to almost dying and the SES light comes on. When back up to speed the light goes out and idle will be ok at a stop again then same thing over again.

I'm new to these cars and I'm getting a little overwhelmed here. Any help is appreciated and needed.

Thanks,
Tim

tpi_roc

I dont recommend a 160° for a TPI car. The car needs to reach a higher temp to go into closed loop so that the 02 sensor is even used by the ecm (important). As far as the crap Idle mine started doing that and its the ignition module that caused it. Usually the hotter it gets the more it will act up. I recommend getting a 180° thermostat, and then you can drill 2-4 holes around the permiter of it to allow steam/bubbles passed it even when its closed. Your on track with the water wetter/mix, but your pump could be going out. Is your coolant fan coming on? You can always wire in an override switch for when its off, and it will still come on automatically at the appropriate times. Hope thats *Some* info.

Oh yea on the vacuum/exhaust leaks look for burnt gsket if its headers, if not you can rev it in dark sometimes to see a leak, or sometimes you can find exhaust leaks just by noise. And the vacuum leaks are best found with a bottle of water, spray around all vacuum lines, and gaskets, if the engine stumbles or Idles off beat thats where your culprit is. Unfortunatly it makes it a little tough if the idle isn't steady enough. But you can always unplug the EST and IAC to stable it out enough to be able to spray the water around trying to find the leak.

Good luck

SARswmr

So you think the ignition module could be causing the idle problems. Is there a way to check it before replacing it?

Would the 160 deg stat cause it to almost overheat? The pump has about 50k on it. Could be that I guess but never did this before I changed the stat yesterday.

Thanks for the info. I'm open to anything at this point.

Thanks,

Anyone else have any ideas or similar problems??

tpi_roc

The stat isn't an overheating problem, you need to fix your overheating first, but then raise your stat temp, to low will prevent your car from hitting closed loop.


you can check your ignition module for the proper resistance with a voltmeter, or take it in to the auto parts store and they can test it.

SARswmr

So you think the ignition module could be causing the idle problems. Is there a way to check it before replacing it?

Would the 160 deg stat cause it to almost overheat? The pump has about 50k on it. Could be that I guess but never did this before I changed the stat yesterday.

Thanks for the info. I'm open to anything at this point.

Thanks,

Anyone else have any ideas or similar problems??

TPI K5

I just had a code 44/idle problem on my 89 Blazer with a TBI 350 and it turned out to be the fuel pump. Check the fuel pressure