Smog Pump Removal
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Smog Pump Removal
I want to remove all of the emmisions equipment on my 89 Formula 350.
Does anybody know the GM Part# for the Idler pulley to replace the smog pump. Also I understand that you need a shorter belt or something because the route is slightly shorter? If so, does any body know what the corresponding belt # is?
I am doing this because I want to install long tube headers.
Any additional advice, pointers, and knowledge regarding this type of procedure would be appreciated.
Does anybody know the GM Part# for the Idler pulley to replace the smog pump. Also I understand that you need a shorter belt or something because the route is slightly shorter? If so, does any body know what the corresponding belt # is?
I am doing this because I want to install long tube headers.
Any additional advice, pointers, and knowledge regarding this type of procedure would be appreciated.
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Car: Vert IROC Camaro
Engine: 355ci
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/3.45s
Just totally take the smog pump off and leave the empty spot open. You'll need a longer belt - 96.8 inches if I remember right. I just got done doing it to my car. There is a tech article somewhere for this removal.
There it is . . . https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...rpentine.shtml
There it is . . . https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...rpentine.shtml
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You can get plugs for them at any hardware store. I haven't done it, so don't know the exact size, but it has been posted before. I do remember that it is a pipe thread, but can't remember the size. Maybe search for "AIR", "plug", and "size" all at once.
#6
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I did mine a few weeks ago. I think it was 1/4 inch. I took my air tube in and matched it up. I got the steel ones at a plumbing store. Dont go with the brass.
You dont need a pulley if you remove the smog pump, But if you remove the A/C then you will need a replacement pulley.
The A/C delete pulley #10055890. This is only If you remove your A/C compressor.
After I removed the smog and A/C, I had alot more room to work on the motor. I will be going to headers soon.
You dont need a pulley if you remove the smog pump, But if you remove the A/C then you will need a replacement pulley.
The A/C delete pulley #10055890. This is only If you remove your A/C compressor.
After I removed the smog and A/C, I had alot more room to work on the motor. I will be going to headers soon.
#7
does anyone know how this will affect emissions? I've heard that it cools down the cat at idle, and ive also heard that it makes the exhaust hotter to help burn off emissions.
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Originally posted by 90Form350
does anyone know how this will affect emissions? I've heard that it cools down the cat at idle, and ive also heard that it makes the exhaust hotter to help burn off emissions.
does anyone know how this will affect emissions? I've heard that it cools down the cat at idle, and ive also heard that it makes the exhaust hotter to help burn off emissions.
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Here is how things worked on my last car:
First off, it was a non computer controlled 350 with vac advance distributor and Carter carb in an 84 Camaro. Since a 350 was not offered, they test it as a 305. I don't think that matters, since all of the gasses tested are in percentages and parts per million. Anyways, the only emissions controls that I had on the car was a catalytic converter. No smog pump, no EGR, just a cat. On a roller emissions test, my car would pretty much always fail on the first and second tests. However, using that information to tune the carb got it to pass. So, I would say that if your car is still set up basically like it is supposed to be (computer controlled carb still there, or fuel injection not swapped to carb or anything like that), it souldn't make a big enough difference to matter. As an extra precaution though, when getting tested without an AIR pump, make sure that the car has been running for a while so that the cat is fully heated.
Well, that's a little insight into the answer. Hope it helps.
First off, it was a non computer controlled 350 with vac advance distributor and Carter carb in an 84 Camaro. Since a 350 was not offered, they test it as a 305. I don't think that matters, since all of the gasses tested are in percentages and parts per million. Anyways, the only emissions controls that I had on the car was a catalytic converter. No smog pump, no EGR, just a cat. On a roller emissions test, my car would pretty much always fail on the first and second tests. However, using that information to tune the carb got it to pass. So, I would say that if your car is still set up basically like it is supposed to be (computer controlled carb still there, or fuel injection not swapped to carb or anything like that), it souldn't make a big enough difference to matter. As an extra precaution though, when getting tested without an AIR pump, make sure that the car has been running for a while so that the cat is fully heated.
Well, that's a little insight into the answer. Hope it helps.
#10
Re: Smog Pump Removal
Go to any automotive store and get a 5/16 manifold plug that will do it for ya, they are brass or you can go to a fleet farm or what ever and get steel ones but the brass ones held up fine to the heat for me.
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z28
Engine: L98 - 350 TPI
Transmission: MD8 - 700R4
Axle/Gears: GH3/G80 - 2.77 POSI
Re: Smog Pump Removal
Just totally take the smog pump off and leave the empty spot open. You'll need a longer belt - 96.8 inches if I remember right. I just got done doing it to my car. There is a tech article somewhere for this removal.
There it is . . . https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...rpentine.shtml
There it is . . . https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...rpentine.shtml
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z28
Engine: L98 - 350 TPI
Transmission: MD8 - 700R4
Axle/Gears: GH3/G80 - 2.77 POSI
Re: Smog Pump Removal
No but a Civic will. With the crap mileage my car gets, and has since new, I don't really do things expecting or looking for mpg, I am looking to free up as much power as I can.
I can't emagine this will have any effect on the mileage.
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