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Nice Find looks like a good clean car. Where about in Ont ***EDIT**** I MISSED THE PART WHERE YOU SAID NIAGARA (MY OLD STOMPING GROUNDS)**********? I'm in Wasaga Beach area. And I know all to well the feeling of trying to find a Clean Fbody in ontario. I have an 86 WS6 5PD that I was going to resto-mod but its too far gone I think, so its now a parts car. This 85 I just picked up a few weeks ago with only 80K on the clock and super clean
Last edited by kenferrell; 07-18-2020 at 05:39 PM.
Thanks, the intermediate pipe fought me every inch. I had to take the cat off and pull it back 1” to get the intermediate pipe to not rub on the floor and shields = nightmare. Then to find the muffler wouldn’t mount because the intermediate pipe was angled into the car. Once I sorted that out it went quite well.
I find the “super turbo” muffler to be rather quiet, probably more suited to a daily than a hobby car. I want to get rid of the Tiny stock carbureted lg4 manifolds and y pipe, though I prefer manifolds over headers. Anyone got a set of TPI manifolds and y pipe kicking around they’d be willing to sell?
Nice Find looks like a good clean car. Where about in Ont ***EDIT**** I MISSED THE PART WHERE YOU SAID NIAGARA (MY OLD STOMPING GROUNDS)**********? I'm in Wasaga Beach area. And I know all to well the feeling of trying to find a Clean Fbody in ontario. I have an 86 WS6 5PD that I was going to resto-mod but its too far gone I think, so its now a parts car. This 85 I just picked up a few weeks ago with only 80K on the clock and super clean
Wow, that IS clean! great score. I had a Monogram style model of THAT car as a kid, wore the floor off of it pushing it around.
I’ve got a bit of a wish list going if you’ve got an ‘86 parts car!
Wow, that IS clean! great score. I had a Monogram style model of THAT car as a kid, wore the floor off of it pushing it around.
I’ve got a bit of a wish list going if you’ve got an ‘86 parts car!
I know I'm going to be keeping the 5spd and related parts as well as the rear disc brakes/rear end for sure for a swap to the 85. Also keeping the radio/heater console surround to replace the broken one in the 85. I'm not quite ready to part the 86 to the public yet as i not fully sure what i need off it but PM me you needs and when I get home from work next Thursday I'll see what I can do to help. The 86 has grey interior, the door panels are shot and most of the plastic is ok haven't spent time cleaning any of it up yet. radio wiring is all hacked to bits. it was a basket case
Ive just done new plug and wires, that’s a real treat on this engine, particularly the drivers side.
Engine still seems to have the occasional stumble, hopefully a fresh cap and rotor will take care of it.
Its definitely burning oil when parked on an incline or decline. I’ll be doing valve seals first week of August, but I don’t hold out much hope, I suspect worn guides.
Sometimes burning oil is a blessing with these cars.That 305 will never be exciting, so when it tanks and you get a bill for the rebuild just to see that you're just about on par with a 350 swap.. then the fun will begin That's basically the route I'm going right now. Even at 120km, my car seems to be chewing oil like it's gasoline, so I'll run that 305 until it pops.
Sometimes burning oil is a blessing with these cars.That 305 will never be exciting, so when it tanks and you get a bill for the rebuild just to see that you're just about on par with a 350 swap.. then the fun will begin That's basically the route I'm going right now. Even at 120km, my car seems to be chewing oil like it's gasoline, so I'll run that 305 until it pops.
I'm still really hopeful its in the cylinder heads, cooked seals and worn guides. It only ever smokes when on an angle: A friend of mine is building a '99 chevy truck and will be yanking the tired 5.0 Vortec and dropping in a blown 454. I'm sure I can have the 5.0 Vortec for a very reasonable price. I've read ALOT about the 5.0 head castings, and I know they aren't as hot as the 5.7L, but they're better than everything else shy of an LT1 that's OEM and in my price range. The cost of a Vortec intake isnt much more than a sbc intake these days, having the whole engine available to me won't hurt, the mini Vortec mouse makes good power too if the heads alone aren't enough.
How did it go? My car needs them done, and honestly I've just been nervous about taking the job on. Time consuming is fine, but is it fairly straight forward for an amateur?
How did it go? My car needs them done, and honestly I've just been nervous about taking the job on. Time consuming is fine, but is it fairly straight forward for an amateur?
Done it a handful of times in my day. It’s not difficult by any means but also not the easiest. Definitely requires some organization and lots of patience, which I have plenty of. Well, most times anyway lol
Forgot to add to OP, love the ride and the approach you’re taking! Looks like lots of fun and a nice ride!
How did it go? My car needs them done, and honestly I've just been nervous about taking the job on. Time consuming is fine, but is it fairly straight forward for an amateur?
Originally Posted by CKone
Done it a handful of times in my day. It’s not difficult by any means but also not the easiest. Definitely requires some organization and lots of patience, which I have plenty of. Well, most times anyway lol
Forgot to add to OP, love the ride and the approach you’re taking! Looks like lots of fun and a nice ride!
Originally Posted by 427seven
Forgot to add to OP, love the ride and the approach you’re taking! Looks like lots of fun and a nice ride!
second[/QUOTE]
Valve seal replacement does require time and detail, but it can be done by an ammature. I did it the hard way - in the driveway on ramps with a time constraint.
CKone nailed it, organization is the key - it doesn’t have to cost a lot. A couple of empty egg cartons will hold everything you need: in the first carton - one stem seal per cell, one intake and exhaust per pair. Place your lifters into another carton with their position labeled. Get busy. Replace your new components with the old in the carton and voila, you can’t lose.
i wouldn’t use rope in the cylinder, I used 1/8” vinyl hose (transfer hose) on the passenger side, it is much easier to feed into the cylinder. I turned the engine over by hand (remove all spark plugs) and looped the end of the tubing over the crank pulley to eliminate the risk of a foolish mistake (forgetting tubing in cylinder).
i had half the time in the second bank with cleaned valve covers etc. Leave yourself lots of time, it is a bit stressful but worth it I promise.
Thanks for the encouragement, I’m enjoying the experience!
this is the valve spring compressor I used, it performed well, there isn’t much depth to the spring so I did have to use almost it’s full range to do the job.
I think every time I’ve done it I’ve you compressed air in the cylinder using a fitting that screws into the spark plug hole. Maybe I was spoiled
Definitely odd when you plug the air in and the engine just finds where it needs to be automatically
This build will be full on driveway DIY, and even at that I’m walking on thin ice as there is a bylaw in my area against driveway repair. my neighbours are “into” the build for now, we’ll see how long that lasts... 😀
I only have the gas engine powered compressor on my service truck, which I’m sure would make bitter enemies with my neighbours in no time.
I met up with a gent who’s parting with a well optioned 2.8l ‘86 Firebird, a nice selection of stuff off that car. I’m sure I’m going back for more.
So much win in these pictures. A hatch that holds its own weight, isolation relay that WORKS, overhead interior panel that isn’t split in half, door trim that’s not split at the back, a spare shift cover with spare window switches... on and on.
Last edited by theraymondguy; 08-11-2020 at 08:12 PM.
So cool you got a 3rd gen. Love the backstory - looking forward to seeing the car progress! I’m in Winnipeg - I literally gave up waiting for a good car and got mine from Arizona. I did a GMPP 5.7 crate motor swap with a T56. I modify and race it regularly.
I’m not much for interior work or accurate resto’s, but if you ever want to make it fast, feel free to give me a call. Love to help.
great car!!
So cool you got a 3rd gen. Love the backstory - looking forward to seeing the car progress! I’m in Winnipeg - I literally gave up waiting for a good car and got mine from Arizona. I did a GMPP 5.7 crate motor swap with a T56. I modify and race it regularly.
I’m not much for interior work or accurate resto’s, but if you ever want to make it fast, feel free to give me a call. Love to help.
great car!!
Thank you for the offer! I did more tuning this weekend. I replaced the carb base gasket to seal up an intake leak. I cleaned out all the ports in the primaries and reset the air fuel screws to 3 1/4 turns out (they were 3 1/2 and 6?). No more stumble at idle, it has really crisp throttle response (12 degrees base timing). I’m almost ready to take it for certification, just a few more little pieces...
I’m really struggling on what to do for either exhaust manifolds or headers. I found an N10 setup and TPI manifolds for reasonable money, but at half the cost of new headers I’ll be leaving power on the table. I like the idea of having the stock appearance, plug routing and the function of the heat riser.
kinda ironic - i'm having carb issues and changing headers right now lol!
i have the hooker shorties/Y pipe on the car now and am switching to something long tube, but i dont know just yet - i bought a set of the full length Stainless Steel headers with Y pipe, they are for an AT car and dont clear the clutch slave cylinder without some heavy hammering - not sure if i want to do that as 1/2 the pipe must be flattened. so i might sell both sets or just keep the hookers on the car until i get something else. there was a pair in the TGO classifieds im kinda looking at, but its just more work - theres always a trade off. if you're interested let me know
kinda ironic - i'm having carb issues and changing headers right now lol!
i have the hooker shorties/Y pipe on the car now and am switching to something long tube, but i dont know just yet - i bought a set of the full length Stainless Steel headers with Y pipe, they are for an AT car and dont clear the clutch slave cylinder without some heavy hammering - not sure if i want to do that as 1/2 the pipe must be flattened. so i might sell both sets or just keep the hookers on the car until i get something else. there was a pair in the TGO classifieds im kinda looking at, but its just more work - theres always a trade off. if you're interested let me know
Thanks for the offer, but I thing I’m going with the N10 setup. I like factory hop ups that don’t sacrifice functionality.
I did however score a period correct Edelbrock 2101 intake today 😀
Replaced the shift shaft seal and drained / filled the diff with synthetic gear oil this weekend. Swapped out the nasty drivers seat belt latch and replaced the spring for the center console.
I’ve taken it as far as I can, time to find a safety and get this thing mobile.
Last edited by theraymondguy; 08-31-2020 at 04:00 PM.
Loving the progress! I have a buddy with an N10 set up from his IROC for a good price. He's in Toronto but I may be able to snag it off him next time we meet up
Loving the progress! I have a buddy with an N10 set up from his IROC for a good price. He's in Toronto but I may be able to snag it off him next time we meet up
If he's a member of this forum with a clean black IROC.. then nope definitely not I meant scoop them for you, not me! I live in Waterdown so it would save you from having to drive all the way in to Toronto, but it's your call of course!
If he's a member of this forum with a clean black IROC.. then nope definitely not I meant scoop them for you, not me! I live in Waterdown so it would save you from having to drive all the way in to Toronto, but it's your call of course!
Thanks for the heads up! Pm sent.
Last edited by theraymondguy; 08-31-2020 at 06:23 PM.
Friday Afternoon, 4:30 pm: fresh safety inspection in hand, insurance setup. I’m ready to go Saturday morning to Service Ontario and get this thing PLATED! Finally!
Knowing that the local office can be...
- unpleasant -
I searched the Internet to see what other office locally opens earlier on Saturdays...
Turns out, none. Not one Service Ontario open in all of the eastern section of the Golden Horseshoe. I’d have to travel 100 KM to either Port Dover or 100 KM to Georgetown, and Who knows how many other poor souls would be lining up to be “Served”. Only one hope, get up early, get in and out ASAP. Someone once said if you want to make the Lord laugh, tell him your plans... As I’m finishing up in the shower Saturday morning my wife says she hears dripping in the basement, which would be the newly minted leak in our shower.
😩
Tear apart the shower, find the leak (escutcheon plate) seal it up... 10am... and say to hell with it, I’ll go Monday.
However, a silver lining.
I did come across a header setup with dual y pipes into a single converter for a very reasonable price. As discussed, the struggle to find a sub $600 solution to precat exhaust is Real. I found 2 1/2” headers, with individual y pipes and a single 2 3/4” cat which lines right up with my Dynomax catback for a price well within my budget.
Now I did say I didn’t want to do headers, and I didn’t. But, the N10 setup wasn’t what I wanted it to be, and the seller wasn’t willing to separate the donut from the N10 setup... so,
Last edited by theraymondguy; 09-12-2020 at 05:55 PM.
Thankfully an uneventful affair, though when we got home the car stalled in the driveway. I did the right thing and ignored this behaviour completely, suspecting that the heat fro the crossover has loosened up some goo in the carb. We’ve done about 200 KM on the car, and now the car idles pretty smooth and holds steady 20 inHg, mint.
I installed my last part until my next shipment from Rockauto arrives, a second hand rear glass seal. Having experience, it slots right in and fits like a glove.
Congrats man! The maiden voyage is always the most rewarding one. And lucky for you, you got her on the road juuuuust in time to park it away for the year
Congrats man! The maiden voyage is always the most rewarding one. And lucky for you, you got her on the road juuuuust in time to park it away for the year
Better late than never!
and still a couple weeks for ice cream runs.
I’ve got parts en route for the winter, header and intake gaskets, exhaust hangers, motor mounts, wheel cylinders carb kit et all to arrive prior to Thanksgiving. I’m hoping to wrap up the header install over Thanksgiving so I can focus on the carb, intake and cam this winter.
Cam selection has been almost as difficult as choosing which flavour ice cream: There is an Edelbrock 2102 kit on marketplace, but a Melling L82 would be much more cam for less money, and then there’s the Summit 1103...
There's a guy on Kijiji with a Sniper EFI kit for just under $1000. Slightly more money of course, but as your car is a non HO 305, that kit will most likely make it feel more lively than any of those carbs, plus it'll be ready to transfer should a 350 make its way in to your world some day
There's a guy on Kijiji with a Sniper EFI kit for just under $1000. Slightly more money of course, but as your car is a non HO 305, that kit will most likely make it feel more lively than any of those carbs, plus it'll be ready to transfer should a 350 make its way in to your world some day
With the 700R4 and the 9 bolt rear... a high 200 BHP 305 will do just fine. So, that means I keep the Minnie Mouse and the Quadrajet at least for the time being until I come across the “right” donor (probably a 4th gen LT1 car).
I’m at home with a cold today due to my employers COVID policy. It’s a beauty of a day, may as well get some vitamin D...
Seems like the right time to DIY some Covid Timing Tape.
1. Wrap the balancer in masking tape.
cut the tape on the balancer by going across its face, peel it carefully off and mount it to a flat surface.
Measure the length of the tape (537mm, LG4 305 = approx 6 3/4” balancer).
1/10th of 360* is 36*, pretty typical for small block Chevy total timing. Cut a length of tape 1/10th of your measured balancer, 53.7mm.
apply a piece of reflective tape (liquid white out?) to the balancer at that mark, et voila, a total timing mark.
I checked mine @3500 rpm and the tape is right in the sight at the 0 degree mark, bang on. Static timing is set to 12 degrees fwiw. Pretty pleased.
Last edited by theraymondguy; 09-23-2020 at 11:11 AM.
I’ve suffered through the worst cold of my life this week. Back on my feet today somewhat, time to do something with that pile of parts.
I’m well pleased with the improvement I’ve been able to make with the engine, It certainly is a worthy candidate for the performance upgrades I have in mind. I had it out for a run after the final adjustments today, no trouble liquefying the ancient BFGs from a stop and will chirp after an aggressive 1-2 shift. It’s not fast, but it looks and sounds the part now.
Button is well worn on the og cap. Swapping out the cap and rotor has cleaned up the last bit of the uneven idle. Take the time to remove the springs and lube the pivots with dielectric grease. This distributor has lost not one degree of mechanical advance over the last 35 years because it’s been maintained. My swank new carb adjustment screwdriver, consistent 21 inHg at 550 rpm. Check out that idle.
Last edited by theraymondguy; 09-26-2020 at 02:45 PM.
I borrowed the engine hoist from work, and you all know what that means, right?
Time to pull the worn engine!!! Well, at least the worn engine mounts 😉
Snap On 1/4” drive extended length ratchet and swivel socket make getting access through the limited space around the lower control arm a breeze.
The engine sits up about a 1/4” higher after install.
The mounts were cheap from Rock Auto, about $12 for both.
Sitting pretty.
This isn’t for the solo weekend warrior, your mastercraft socket set isn’t going to get this job done without removing the lower control arm. Doable with basic wrenches and Far better to have a willing spare set of hands on this job than to go lone wolf.
I was 5 hours start to finish, note the bolts are installed in the correct orientation, through the mounts into the cross member.
I noticed that the rear brakes didn’t seem to have the stopping power they did after the brake shoe install, and sure enough a weaping wheel cylinder.
If you’ve not had the pleasure of dealing with these tedious clips on drum brake cars, you don’t know the struggle. Sh1tshow.
But there is hope. I sacrificed a head pipe from an old Honda motorcycle to make this sleeve, fits neatly over the wheel cylinder and allows pressure against the entirety of the lock spring. The most satisfying “click” ever, but couldn’t get both sides with the ‘tool’. Happily, once one side is locked in, the other can be tapped in with a small chisel and hammer.
Nearly 3 hours for the passenger side, under 20 minutes for the drivers side.
So, all of this summers work has been done really for the work I’m doing this winter. The car runs solid, spark plugs are nice and clean with just a touch of tan.
Normally we’d spend a week in Florida over the winter, this year it’s not happening. I booked this week off to make use of the last of the nice weather.
What better time to install headers on the LG4 and let that it exhale.
I’m trying to complete the install without any further mods to the y pipe. We’ll see how that goes.
Stock manifolds y pipe and cat, 55 Lbs. Mr Gasket headers y pipe and aftermarket cat, 40 Lbs. Most of which is the cat. As high as I can get it with my wimpy trolly jack and stands.
Car looks like it's coming along nicely. Hopefully once things are better next summer, we can get an "Ontario Thirdgen meet" going
That sounds like a good time, there were a couple of 3rd gen trans ams at a small local rolling meet in Niagara Falls two weeks ago iirc. Gotta admit I was jealous, wanted to tag along.
Getting closer with the y pipe, finished up the header install and mocked up the cat.
I finished the header install, as best as I can with the parts that I had, no leaks im happy to say. After installing the cat back early on I have to admit I was disappointed with the Dynomax sound, but now with the headers and conventional cat it’s a whole new car - at and off idle there is a hint of rumble, lean into the throttle and the system ROARS! I’m very pleased and honestly couldn’t ask for more. Unfortunately the carb is lean on the primary circuit again, it has an intermittent ‘Shark Bite’ l lean miss that I can’t dial out with carb adjustment - I suspect this is due to a partial block of the primary circuit. I can eliminate it by adding fuel, so it looks like it’s time to rebuild the Quadrajet. I’ll be going up a couple of sizes on the jets but keeping it simple otherwise.
Birthday and Christmas are coming, time to start hoarding some RockAuto gift cards. Time to order the cam and accoutrements.
I am a little late to the party but welcome to the forum. I had a 1987 Trans Am with the LG4 and WS6 package. I pretty much did the same mods as you have, Edelbrock 3706 intake, I did a 650 SB Holley, K&N filter w/ Xstream Flo lid, Flowtech headers and Dynomax 3" catback, Accel Super Coil...all that woke up the old boat anchor...nice thing about it was that everything would bolt up to a 350 SB. Car is long gone now, but I kept all of the bolt ons...
Your car is in great shape, maybe next year I will try and get out more with the GTA and meet up with you and others from the area.
I am a little late to the party but welcome to the forum. I had a 1987 Trans Am with the LG4 and WS6 package. I pretty much did the same mods as you have, Edelbrock 3706 intake, I did a 650 SB Holley, K&N filter w/ Xstream Flo lid, Flowtech headers and Dynomax 3" catback, Accel Super Coil...all that woke up the old boat anchor...nice thing about it was that everything would bolt up to a 350 SB. Car is long gone now, but I kept all of the bolt ons...
Your car is in great shape, maybe next year I will try and get out more with the GTA and meet up with you and others from the area.
Thanks for the encouragement. I missed every meet up this year so that’s definitely a goal for next year.
I’ve been enjoying the car as I can through this Indian summer. It’s pretty clear that the party is over.
I pulled the carb (non ccc), tore it down, gave it a dip in pinesol, installed bushings I the primary throttle shaft, rebuilt it with an ethanol tolerant float.
Car runs well, no more lean misfire.
I’ve noted the EGR is bad, much of the emissions hosing is pretty crusty. Anyone done an emissions delete on an LG4? Asking fir a friend.
Last edited by theraymondguy; 11-15-2020 at 07:15 PM.
Well, not all is perfect in the carburetor world. The accelerator pump seems to be losing its prime if the car sits for a long period making it hard to start.
A guy had his birthday recently, got a nice gift from my family.
A heavy duty Blue Streak ignition coil (they may have had some guidance).
Carburetor to replace suspect “original”. I’ve learned some things and I’m going to try them out on this one. Seems to be in much better condition than my previous unit.
A guy is really enjoying this thread, and the car is looking nice! Is that heater delete factree?
Well, it came to me with the lines looped, so it could be? I’ll be dipped if there wasn’t a new heater core on the backseat when I bought it. It fought me harder than Apollo Creed, but it’s in the hole and keeps the critters out. It’s hotter than Moses sandals with the T tops on anywho.
Some slow progress, 2nd hand fuel make-it-happener is now rebuilt with new throttle bushing and installed with the gubbIns from the first (accelerator pump, rods, jets etc). Managed to kill the electric choke coil on the 2nd carb as well - I purchased a new Jet unit from the Amazon for easy returns/exchange in case it’s something I’m doing? Maybe digicals just aren’t my thing, I don’t know.
Red epdm hose is temporary unless it works, then it’s forever? I’m still tracking down every little vacuum leak I can find. A guy wants the fuel setup dialed right in before swapping in the new cam and intake - but that’s a springtime job.
(I think we’re all Vice Grip Garage fans, even if we don’t know it yet).
07-18-2020, 05:35 PM
That's basically the route I'm going right now. Even at 120km, my car seems to be chewing oil like it's gasoline, so I'll run that 305 until it pops. 
