cam-

I'm doing a few but nothing too major. Underdrive pulley that is supposed to be worth a tenth although I have doubts its merely a tenth and a tad that I want to get that all so elusive 11 second slip and vid of course. I also lost a valve seal spring in the late season so that will have to be rectified. Probably also work on a better cold air intake too. Chassis wise I roasted a T2R torsen this season which sucks cuz I really loved that thing it worked great but it didnt like clutch dumps at the strip. I'm thinking about a Truetrac now although I hear mixed feelings about them so not for certain on that one we'll see. If I do a carrier swap I'll likely go for 4.10's at the same time and that alone should allow me to cake walk into mid 11's seeing as I trap in fourth well below peak RPM power. I'm also thinking of making deeper LCA relocation brackets so I dont have to keep swapping my rear springs when i go to the track. The damn sportlines are too low even with BMR relo brackets on the lowest hole I dont get enough arm angle so need to do something there. Cant think of anything else but thats my list what are you guys doing?

George

I'll just work on the nut that holds the steering wheel - it's often the best place to pick up a lot of time..lol

Scamo-2.8

iTrader: (16)

Well I'm hoping to get my hooker headers on, I got a bigger tb, an accel base (which I'm polishing right now) and some AS&M runners to throw on as well. Which also means I got some work to do to that plenum. I'm looking into a powertrac locker (the street version) right now cause I don't have posi and I need it desperatly. Wouldn't mind recovering the door panels this winter too. Oh ya I got to fix the stupid heat soak problem I have with the starter (I'm afraid to drive the car to any destination because she won't start until she cools down), and I can smell gas so I guess I better fix that problem this winter too.
Ok..... so I have my work cut out for me......
Any one have some recomendations for a good heater for a single car garage?

89junkyardgta

The kerosene/diesel ones with the fan seem to work pretty good...get things hot in a hurry anyway. I think you can get them at P. Auto. Also, you should look into a Detroit EZ locker. My local distributor has had problems with warranty issues with the powertrax unit, so he steered me towards the Detroit version. It went into a 91 full size chevy and for the 60,000km I drove it, it worked fine. Just be sure to torque the stay bolt on the pinion shaft in the carrier....its not pretty if that shaft slips out.

cam-

Great pic!!! "lemme just pile down this pint before we get started eh? Cheers mate.... oh yeah better give me five more to uh...get changed in me trailer. Common lassey I need your help sortin out me duds"


LOL

George

Yeah, that was about it too..lol

palric

iTrader: (1)

C4/Gran Sport HD brake upgrade

AFR heads (CDN buck sure helps)

the cam I bought 2 years ago and is sitting in my closet

Shift06

LT1 Cam, BBK AFPR, Headers, Ypipe and New Magnaflow cat, and A/C removal.

Cruz'N Bruz'R

finish the 383:

Pro Topline 200's (possibly ported)
Comp solid roller XR280-R
Holley HP 750 swap
electric water pump
RPM air gap
NOS Super Powershot system, jetted for 100shot to start
whole bunch of block oiling mods

Still gonna run the homemade dual 3" clunking exhaust

4.11's , with ET streets, and some draglites in the mix to lighten her up

Going for 11's or bust.

cam-

That outta do it.


I'm also looking for a 15" lightweight drag wheel set up but I'm up a creek with the C5 brakes I need a minimum 17" wheel on the front. I guess i;'ll just have to keep searching for another pair of Borbets for the rear I cant seem to find another nice looking big brake set up that fits a 15 wheel.

Seeing as my mod list is so small I am also contemplating diving into the Players car this winter and start the resto on it.

The list is growing substantially already hehe

6speedIROC

iTrader: (3)

Wow, new heads again Dave? What about the NZ ones?

This year.. switch from the ES polyurethane trans mount to an LS1 unit (don't need it as my torque arm mounts directly on the xmember now, the ES one vibrates too much especially when it's cold), and swap a new LT4 knock module. I think mine is messed as I get less knock retard with the stock LT1 module after my LE2.2 H/C. The sensor is fully bypassed right now, don't really want to leave it like that.

Might get a fully dyno tune, but have to make a trip to the US for that one to (hopefully) see Bryan Herter personally.

Besides that I just NEED to get this thing to the track and dyno to see what's in it! It hauls.

Wishlist is for C4 HD brakes (that fit in the stock 16's).. I'd fall over dead if they ended up under the tree!

freestylzz

Port the plenum (not sure if it's been done).

Slap on a pair of these;

Cruz'N Bruz'R

They are the NZ ones. I ordered them before the Pro Toplines started coming over the N.America all crappy. I haven't had any problems with mine like the others. I wanted to run them plain and untouched and see what they would support, but if I have the chance to get them ported, I might have to jump all over it.

cam- I'd like to touch into the 11's on just motor. I'm not sure if I'll be able to because I won't dump the clutch on the T5, but my MPH should be able to tell me if it's 11sec material or not.

mikernet

iTrader: (1)

Hey all,

Sorry I haven't posted or checked this forum in a while...I've been insanely busy with my software development business (pulling 14h days for the last couple months), but things look like they might (hopefully) cool down a bit after Christmas...at which point I will start doing a complete resto on my 89 GTA! I'm due to get my winter beater on the road soon, so the GTA will get torn apart at that time. I'm looking at ordering a car lift for my garage asap to make things a little easier.

I'm going to tear EVERYTHING apart first, take care of any potential rust issues I might find, then start putting it all together again. Anything that isn't perfect is going to be fixed or replaced. I've got big plans for the GTA, so hopefully I won't find any discouraging nasty surprises once I start tearing into things.

The plan:

Exterior:

-Paint was redone 3 years ago by the previous owner, so its in pretty good shape. Only a few chips here and there. I think I'll wait it out a few years before I repaint the exterior of the car.
-I'm considering painting the mesh of the GTA rims black.
-I need to get GTA emblems, which were removed during the vehicle repaint. I think emblems from a black car would accent well with the black rims, otherwise I'll have to find some red ones.
-Besides that, there is really nothing more I want to do to the exterior - why molest such a gorgeous car? I think the exterior is just bloody perfect right out of the factory.

Interior:

-If I can find some nice tan leather seats, I'll go for that. If I can't, I'll just go for black.
-I need to redo the headliner, and either shampoo up the carpet or get new carpet.
-I would like to install black camaro door panels from a forth gen car (not 100% sure how well they fit though - I hear its almost a direct swap?).
-A custom dashboard will be molded with carbon fiber and then wrapped with leather. I'm going for the 1991 Nissan 240SX dashboard look - those are sexy, sexy dashes. The console will also be custom made, and will feature cup holders! haha - I can't live without them!
-Sound dampening material will be installed generously everywhere.
-And so help me God: everything that could possibly cause vibrations/rattles will be taken care of one way or another...this is going to be the most comfortable 3rd gen you will ever drive lol.

Electronics:

-Touch screen LCD will be emedded in the front of the console, and a computer hidden inside the dashboad.
-Another small touch screen will be installed in place of the GTA steering wheel controls for easy access to commonly used stuff. A position sensor will relay back the position of the steering wheel to the computer, so that it can keep the contents of the display upright at all times, regardless of the rotation of the steering wheel.
-I'll be writing custom software and some serial electronics to control all aspects of the vehicle - audio/video, climate controls, engine tuning, alarm system, boost control, etc. Software will auto-connect to my wifi whenever I pull into the garage to sync up my music library. Bluetooth to cellphone connection for internet on the go (shoutcast internet radio kicks ***).
-Subs installed in the trunk, new speakers all the way around.
-Finger-print reader to start the vehicle.

Suspension/Frame/Braking:

-Coil-over suspension all the way around. It would be really cool to find something like the Tein electronically controlled suspension so that I could wire it into my carputer and control dampening from the touch screen, but I don't think anything like that exists for third gens
-Strut tower brace
-Subframe connectors
-Tubular everything (a-arms, k-member, anything else I can find)
-Anything else I can think of to stiffen things up (what the hell is a wonder bar, and do I want one?)
-Stainless steel brake lines
-I think I'm going to stick with the stock brake system and try getting some higher end slotted/drilled rotors plus some high end pads. Hopefully I'll be happy with that (although I have a feeling I won't).

Engine/Drivetrain:

I probably won't get to this in time for the summer. I want to make sure everything else is working and working well before I dive into engine and transmission issues. I haven't made any solid plans yet, but I'm hoping for either a built 400 sbc with aftermarket fuel injection system, or an LS series motor. Either way, T56 tranny and eventually a turbo will go in. Ideally, a megasquirt computer modified to allow parameters changes on the fly (via carputer) will control the beast (not sure if megasquirt computers support everything needed to control the advanced LS motors - anyone?). I don't know what I'm doing for rear end yet, but an aluminium drive shaft is being installed for sure.

Steering:

I have no idea how to accomplish this, or even if it can be reasonably accomplished, but I really want to achieve a modern car's steering feel (like the 02 trans ams, for example). Is there any way to swap in 4th gen steering parts?

---------------------------------------

In conclusion...I'm going nuts, and I'll be putting in many, many hours into this car over the next little while. I'm hoping to end up with a very comfortable, well performing third gen with some modern touches while still remaining faithful to the original (especially externally). I want there to be very little indication from the outside of what coolness lies on the inside. If anyone wants to help out a bit in exchange for some lift time, let me know haha...I'm sure I'll need all the help I can get. I threw in some questions in-between the stuff above, so if you have any suggestions/answers I'd be glad to hear them (perhaps PM me so we aren't hijacking this thread...or I'll just start a new thread for this project once I get going and I'll re-ask all my questions there lol).

--Mike

6speedIROC

iTrader: (3)

Holy smokes Mike!
Might be easier to buy a new car and put your GTA body on it..haha

It'll be a sweet ride after all the hard work, the GTA that is.

Wonderbar ties the two sides of the front subframe together at the front roll bar mounts. IROC's had them. Get one. Also I think you can toss a rack and pinion in there from a 4th gen or something else. That one's not a bolt in for sure.

mikernet

iTrader: (1)

funny you say that...for a little while, I was considering chopping up a fourth gen to take my third gen body panels...but after looking at all the differences and seeing how much custom fab work would need to be done in areas that I have no expertise in, I decided to drop that idea lol.

I might pick up a nice fourth gen to use as a donor car though...pull everything I want from it...part out the rest or sell as a rolling chassis. It would be nice to have a complete car to take parts from. I almost picked up a 1998 z28 camaro that a guy was selling waaaay below its value a few weeks ago, but I missed the deal. It had everything I wanted - black leather interior, LS1, T56, etc etc...I think the guy would have cried if I told him I was going to chop up his baby for parts lmao. It seems so wrong to take a perfectly good LS1 car and rip it apart for mine...even though it would likely come out cheaper then getting all the parts seperate (and be much more convenient than finding all the parts seperately as well).
----------
and one more thing - the wiring job in these cars makes me want to cryyyy...when I'm done pulling my car apart, chances are I'm going to re-run all new wires my way. Vacuum lines also annoy me...I can't for the life of me figure out why my climate controls are stuck on windshield defrost. I'm going to put some electric servos in my custom dash to route the air instead of those terrible vacuum lines...which will work better anyway considering the touch screen will be controlling it.

Hawk92z-TDZ

De-modding the car abit, taking off the HSR and going back to a LTR set-up like the FIRST injection LTR set-up and pulling out the XFI292 cam and dropping in a smaller LPE cam with a mild 214@50. I want the EGR so to be emision legal during the road side inspections, I'll take the slower car over the $380 fine for no EGR.

Funny how even though I can pass the sniffer test just fine without the EGR, I still have to have it I hate our law's sometimes

mikernet

iTrader: (1)

That really sucks...isn't there a way to leave the EGR in there and just block it off so it isn't actually doing anything? How often do these "roadside inspections" actually happen?

Hawk92z-TDZ

The OPP and MTO have a habbit of using my very own work parking lot to do the inspections/blitz's in, and ya they have my works permission.

When IROC2NV on here had his plates pulled last summer durring one of the blitz's, it was in my works parking lot, I told him he could park the car in my spot untill he could get it towed home, Trigger ended up helping him out.

So if I want to enjoy driving my car to work in the summers, I need to make sure its 110% legal, right now the only fine they can get me for is no EGR because the HSR doesnt have the provisions for one. So I didnt take my car to work more then 3 times this year. Wasnt worth the risk.

The Project

iTrader: (6)

Hawk,

Sweet talk the cops with some of that Tim Hortons coffee around the corner!

With my luck, they'll take one look at my licence plate and pull me over for fun...

Hawk92z-TDZ

Ya I guess we are located right in the middle of two Timmy's

My car's quick enuff for me, so I'm not worried about slowwing it down a knotch. The big question is, when am I gunna have time to do the changes, might end up taknig it to the Camaro Nat's the way it is.

Paul_Hughes_87 T/A

Performance: Resonator delete to make the 300c sound like a Hemi not a family car. Cold air intake (need to decide on Mopar or K&N) both claim 14hp gain at the wheels I think that might be BS. Interior: ipod integration kit and some tint in the fall. Exterior: Grip grille and SRT spoiler.

The Project

iTrader: (6)

Do I need to book my appointment now.

I'm gonna need a tune/chip after the new engine & cam goes in.

George

From what I've seen on some of the road racing boards coil-overs on a third isn't the greatest idea and it might cost you some tyre size. I'm assuming here that 275/40/17s are the minimum standard for all four corners.

As for the stock steering, my car just has the quick ratio box and I've been running it around the Mosport GP track for many years w/out problems. The car is very much in the nothing special category but it's handling is extremely sharp and it causes a fair bit of difficulty for 4thgens which have lots more HP than I have and much better aftermarket brakes as well. That said though, my J65 brakes are good for maybe 5 laps at the limit and then I have to drop back a bit or go off the track.

I'm not trying to tell anyone anything about what to do with their cars and I'm sure you're all much better race car drivers than I'll ever be but from what I've heard some people don't seem too impressed with the coil overs.

Just something you might want to follow up on before spending a lot of money

mikernet

iTrader: (1)

I'll definately look into things before I dump the cash. I was looking at various suspension kits and I might just settle on some high end shocks with adjustable dampers + lowering springs. What have you guys had good experiences with? I'm looking at ordering suspension and brake parts within the next few days.

Hawk92z-TDZ

Oh, I am sure I'll be able to fit you in just PM me on CCFBG's forum when ever you are ready I dont come on here very often so might miss you

Fyrstorm

iTrader: (1)

And here I thought taking out my 305 and putting in the 385 fastburn was a major thing! haha! Be nice to see pics when your done mmgodlike. Lots of neat stuff there.

cam-

mmgodlike I've had good luck with Eibach Pro Kit and now Sportlines also good quality although pretty dang low. Koni Yellows are pretty much the ultimate shock very adjustable but Bilstein HD's are well matched to the pro kit and very very high quality shocks that last a loooong time too.

As for your suspension there I'd go for the poly/rod combo on the LCA's and PHR. LS1 brakes can be had for cheap and perform very well with good pads and rotors and will still fit most stock wheels. C5 brakes are also low buck ( providing you source out used stuff that is ) but you need 17" front wheels to clear.

mikernet

iTrader: (1)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOKIC...spagenameZWDVW

Does anyone have any experience with these "Tokico" kits?

Do you know if the LS1 brakes will clear the 16" GTA rims? I don't want to change my wheels. I'll be putting at least 275's all around on the car (after I burn away the 245's that are on there now), possibly more depending on how difficult it is to get something wider on there. Eventually I do want to get some very wide rubber on there though...extend the width of my rims and stick on some 345's...that would look crazy cool lol.

cam-

They are good but for that kind of money you are almost there for Koni yellows ( make sure you get the yellows if you buy Konis ) and they are a superior performing shock fully adjustable and rebuildable. Tokicos are a rice spill over and fairly new to the third gen scene where the koni yellows have had 20+ years of development on the track in third gens. All it takes is a visit to the racing section to see what all the fast guys run... Koni yellows.

As for the brakes yes they will fit but I do believe you need to put a small spacer on the fronts although double check that. The LS1 brake swap is very popular heres a good place to start and I can vouch for ebmiller88 ( ed miller ) as a great guy to deal with although hes a bit slow answering PM's he is a solid guy.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...l-fitment.html

Demon355

iTrader: (1)

What shocks are you using with your Sportlines?

cam-

I was running Bilsteins but they were not for lowering springs ( what did I know at the time ) and i cooked them. Shame too they were awesome although I had them on there for many years ( like 10+ ) they were likely cooked anyways. When i did the LS1 swap is when i got the sportlines and a set of KYB's so I threw them in. Their not bad on the street or at the strip but they are faaaaar from a road course shock. I want to buy the Koni Yellows but something else always crops up before I get to it... Like more power... and then you know... more power LOL

DomsIROC

iTrader: (1)

Need to upgrade my brakes for the spring. Looking at Z06 calipers and 13" rotors. Also, changing my rims to 17".

I have enough power....it's the quick stopping I need

Zedsled

i just want to have my motor running properly and have the new clutch in so i can drive to the camaro nationals

skinny z

Just trying to refine the existing package and hopefully but doubtfully break into the 12's. My 350 with vortec heads seems to make some decent power but my Hedman shorty headers with a single 3" cat back system are killing me. Plans for long tube headers with properly sized collectors and potential true duals are in the works as well as good cold air set up for a carb. I can't get the hood clearance I need because of the RPM Air Gap and I don't want to use a cowl induction . I'm trying to keep a stock looking appearence.
13.4 @ 102 at St Thomas last year is my benchmark. I'm hoping a couple of tenths with the exhaust and some carb/intake work. Bump the stall up to 3000 from the current 2500 might squeeze a tenth out of my 60' too.

skinny z

Do the boys hassle cars over 20 years old? I don't need an e-test on my 86 but I have none of the smog equipment that came with the original and now replaced TPI 305. Except the cat, and it's going too.

cam-

Searched everywhere and coulnd't find one single 3 pinion TrueTrac failure ( for Ford 8.8 that is ) so I ordered one along with motive Performance 4.10's so I'm a pulley swap and CAI away from 11's I hope. If this doesn't get me my tenth I'll be both shocked and pissed

Cruz'N Bruz'R

I've called Comp and Lunati about some cam choices. They recommended some pretty large cam profiles, 250+,260 duration @ .050. I think thats a little much for primarily a street car, so i need to look a little harder into my combo before I pick anything up.

skinny z

What are the your vehicle specs?
Still going for 11's?

Cruz'N Bruz'R

yeah, i still want an 11s timeslip. I think the fact that I'm running a T5 with 4.11's in the back may be why they swung a little on the large side, but I think it's just too much. I thought somewhere around the 242/248 ish would be a bit better.

skinny z

Believe it or not, 400 hp should give you 11.9's. Drag simulator with a 3600lb Camaro, 4.11 gears, T5 trans, 4000 rpm launch and 26" drag radials shows 11.85 @ 113 with 1.75 60'.
That's with a properly set up drag car. You certainly have the gearing and launch RPM needed to go 11's.
400 horse in a 383 is easy these days.
With a less responsive chassis, you might need 450 hp. From what I've read and seen, that's not difficult with a 383 either.

Cruz'N Bruz'R

My goal with the solid roller and the head work is around 500hp at the crank, and then I've got the nitrous as well. I figure the nitrous will allow me to leave a little easier on the T5 and just make it up at the big end with the squeeze. Although I do want to try a 100 shot at a 4000rpm drop on the ET Streets at least once to see what kind of 60ft IS possible with my setup.

skinny z

I've read an engine buid up (you've probably read it) in CHP using Trick Flow heads, which flow a little less than yours (254/190@.600") and Comp solid roller (xr280r) that managed 450 HP.

Cruz'N Bruz'R

Yeah, there have been a few magazine build ups with the xr280r cam that made over 500hp with heads close to mine. Hot Rod took a standard zz4 threw some AFR's on it and the xr280r and made 521hp. My heads flow a little less than the AFR's do out of the box, but I have a little more displacement than the zz4 so it should be in the high 400's-500hp range. A plan on ditching the waterpump for an electric unit as well. i saw a dyno comparison in another mag that showed over 35hp gain over a belt driven pump above 500rpm. thats cheap hp for a couple hundred bucks.

skinny z

It certainly easier to make 500 HP than it used to be. A few extra cubes goes a long way. I'd love to build a 427 SBC.
I've heard about reliability issues with electric water pumps and street use. Seems they weren't up to the duty cycle that conventional driving put them through. Varying engine rpm, sustained idling. They used to be more of a race only piece although that may have changed. I'd do it too if I knew it wasn't going to be a problem. I'll put 10 000 miles on my car this summer no problem.

6speedIROC

iTrader: (3)

I run an Meziere electric on mine now..a lot of the LT1 and LS1 guys run them with no problems... although I might get a spare next time I'm in the US and toss it in the back just for insurance

Cruz'N Bruz'R

I've heard of alot of guys just running the Proform units on the street and they've faired well with them. I may try one of those, or pick up a CSR unit.

6speedIROC

iTrader: (3)

I ended up getting it because of the timing chain/opti/shaft driven water pump on the LT1. I run a Cloyes double roller now, as opposed to the $300 GM LT4 unit that some have had major wear issues with... for the same cost I just tossed on the EWP.

skinny z

I find that very interesting. I've heard that electric pumps won't survive on the street. Or more importantly, don't do a good job of cooling with typical daily driving. (I use my buggy as a daily driver. Drive to Alberta every year too) However that info has come from folks that don't use them. At least as far as I know.
I'd definitely get one for the extra horsepower it frees up if there was a little more support to prove their reliability and performance.
Anyone else have similar experience to 6speedIROC and Cruz'N Bruz'R?

Cruz'N Bruz'R

I don't have any direct experience with them yet, but for the relative cost and the fact that i still have my mechanical one, I'm willing to try it out.