95 Lt1
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z Camaro
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI - SLP Runners, AFPR, MSD Goodies
Transmission: 700R4 - Shift Kit, Corvette Servo
Axle/Gears: BW 9 bolt, 3.27s
95 Lt1
This week we had a local Fbody gathering. Some nice cars came out as well as a bunch of my friends. One of them got a new Lt1 car, beautiful. It has an Auto, 2.7x gears, LT1 and 76k miles. I was curious to see how I could match up so we ran it on the highway to about 80 mph. It was from a 10 mph roll or so and we gunned it, my gears and torque helped me pull a quick 3 car lengths, then his lt1 started reving pretty high and caught me at about 40 mph, then i started to pull ahead a little bit and put a fender on them where he stayed till about 80.
He would have DEFF had me if he had some better gears. Not bad considering it was an LT1, all stock though.
He would have DEFF had me if he had some better gears. Not bad considering it was an LT1, all stock though.
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Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Good run. His car was plagued with the A4 and lame gears. Those two items alone can put an LT1 car on par with an L98.
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My buddies 95 Z28 Convertable with the highway gears ran a 14.2 bone stock.
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Car: 1994 25th Anniversary Trans Am
Engine: Lt1
Transmission: A4
Nice kill. Lt1's with 2.73's are dogs. Woulda been different with some 3.23's or 3.42's. Good kill though!
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z Camaro
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI - SLP Runners, AFPR, MSD Goodies
Transmission: 700R4 - Shift Kit, Corvette Servo
Axle/Gears: BW 9 bolt, 3.27s
It was certainly a good race. With his power band and gears, he pulled on me like a mother up top. From a dig, TPI still owns the road. On the highway, LS1, but LT1s still hold thier own.
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Car: 1987 IROC, 1989 IROC
Engine: built 305, stock 305 tpi
Transmission: Corvette 700r4, t-5
Axle/Gears: 4.10 posi, 3.08 posi
i was unaware that a car that runs 14.3 stock was considered a dog.
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Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
From a stop the 2.73 gears aren't very helpful but they are nice for commuting lol
A set of 4.10s helps alot in an LT1 car, ask me how I know
But it sounds to me like his car needs a serious tune up. From a 10 MPH roll his car should have been in first gear at WOT and with the highway gears he should have had no traction issues. And with the auto it should have shifted perfectly. That was actually an ideal situation for a stock LT1, im extremely surprised that you pulled that hard on him, as I know for a fact that a catback only A4 3.23 '94 LT1 (fully loaded at full weight) with 145k will pull a ZZ4 cammed/full exhaust/chipped L98 IROC with 1500 miles on the engine through the whole powerband.
I'd tell your buddy to do a complete tune-up. And he might want to think about replacing the optispark. He's probably got another 25k on that one, but it's pretty old if it's the original.
And I wouldn't quite say LS1s own the highway.. but if you were talking stock vs. stock then yes LS1s are decent motors. However the SBC 350, the LT1, the LS1, and even the LS7 block all have pretty much the exact same potential, with the SBC 350 and the LT1 having ever so slightly MORE in virgin bore/stroke form. Pet peeve of mine.
A set of 4.10s helps alot in an LT1 car, ask me how I know
But it sounds to me like his car needs a serious tune up. From a 10 MPH roll his car should have been in first gear at WOT and with the highway gears he should have had no traction issues. And with the auto it should have shifted perfectly. That was actually an ideal situation for a stock LT1, im extremely surprised that you pulled that hard on him, as I know for a fact that a catback only A4 3.23 '94 LT1 (fully loaded at full weight) with 145k will pull a ZZ4 cammed/full exhaust/chipped L98 IROC with 1500 miles on the engine through the whole powerband.
I'd tell your buddy to do a complete tune-up. And he might want to think about replacing the optispark. He's probably got another 25k on that one, but it's pretty old if it's the original.
And I wouldn't quite say LS1s own the highway.. but if you were talking stock vs. stock then yes LS1s are decent motors. However the SBC 350, the LT1, the LS1, and even the LS7 block all have pretty much the exact same potential, with the SBC 350 and the LT1 having ever so slightly MORE in virgin bore/stroke form. Pet peeve of mine.
Last edited by urbanhunter44; 10-15-2005 at 02:17 PM.
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Car: ws6
Engine: ls1
Transmission: m6
Axle/Gears: 3.42
My car has 3.42's when it had 2.77's it wasnt that much slower. Maybe the 2.77's on the TPI cars work better than they do on the LT1's....
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z Camaro
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI - SLP Runners, AFPR, MSD Goodies
Transmission: 700R4 - Shift Kit, Corvette Servo
Axle/Gears: BW 9 bolt, 3.27s
Well his car was owned by an old lady (go figure ) and has NO mods, even a paper filter. I will suggest telling him to get a tuneup, he's still learning the LT1 style motors since he left TPI. Once he gets it running good he gonna buy some 4.10s, LTs, and an LT4 conversion package
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Car: 1994 25th Anniversary Trans Am
Engine: Lt1
Transmission: A4
Originally posted by 87TPI350KID
Well his car was owned by an old lady (go figure ) and has NO mods, even a paper filter. I will suggest telling him to get a tuneup, he's still learning the LT1 style motors since he left TPI. Once he gets it running good he gonna buy some 4.10s, LTs, and an LT4 conversion package
Well his car was owned by an old lady (go figure ) and has NO mods, even a paper filter. I will suggest telling him to get a tuneup, he's still learning the LT1 style motors since he left TPI. Once he gets it running good he gonna buy some 4.10s, LTs, and an LT4 conversion package
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Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
Yep, tell him to stay the hell away from the LT4 package. it's a WAY overpriced pile of sh*t. Basically.
His first mods should be a catback, headers, 3.73s/4.10s (4.10s are a bit much for a daily driver, although I do it and I'm fine with it), and a 3200ish stall converter. Along with some good drag radials. Those mods will easily put him at mid 12s.
As for heads/cam, as said above, Lloyd Elliot is without a doubt the BEST choice for the LT1. For a little over a grand you can have 380 RWHP using stock casting ported heads and a mild cam that passes emissions and is daily drivable. www.eportworks.com
First off, 9-bolt cars had 2.77s, 10 bolt cars had 2.73s.
They are essentially the same gear, the difference in the two cars is the powerband. A tpi car can seem fast still because it's not revving out of it's powerband as quickly with the numerically lower gear. A TPI car can very easily be over-geared, I.E. I believe a set of 4.10s would be WAY more gear than you would want to ever get near an L98. An LT1 cannot as it pulls very easily to it's redline. That's why the 4.10s in my car did nothing but make it much, much faster.
His first mods should be a catback, headers, 3.73s/4.10s (4.10s are a bit much for a daily driver, although I do it and I'm fine with it), and a 3200ish stall converter. Along with some good drag radials. Those mods will easily put him at mid 12s.
As for heads/cam, as said above, Lloyd Elliot is without a doubt the BEST choice for the LT1. For a little over a grand you can have 380 RWHP using stock casting ported heads and a mild cam that passes emissions and is daily drivable. www.eportworks.com
My car has 3.42's when it had 2.77's it wasnt that much slower. Maybe the 2.77's on the TPI cars work better than they do on the LT1's....
They are essentially the same gear, the difference in the two cars is the powerband. A tpi car can seem fast still because it's not revving out of it's powerband as quickly with the numerically lower gear. A TPI car can very easily be over-geared, I.E. I believe a set of 4.10s would be WAY more gear than you would want to ever get near an L98. An LT1 cannot as it pulls very easily to it's redline. That's why the 4.10s in my car did nothing but make it much, much faster.
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Car: ws6
Engine: ls1
Transmission: m6
Axle/Gears: 3.42
So for L98 cars are 2.77's decent gears for the powerband? Why else would GM use them in a performance car I wonder. I remember the 2.77's pulled really strong threw the gears.... I hear 3.23's,3.27's are great gears for L98s. Nothing over 3.42's is what I was told.
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Originally posted by 89IrocZ350TPI.So for L98 cars are 2.77's decent gears for the powerband?
Originally posted by 89IrocZ350TPI.Why else would GM use them in a performance car I wonder.
Think of it this way, if GM decided to produce the Iroc and GTA with L98 power, five speed, posi rear (w/3.45 cogs), there would be no reason to even look at the Corvette....
... a balancing act.
Originally posted by 89IrocZ350TPI.I remember the 2.77's pulled really strong threw the gears. I hear 3.23's,3.27's are great gears for L98s. Nothing over 3.42's is what I was told.
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Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
Originally posted by Street Lethal
I'll have to diagree with whoever is telling you this, as TPI makes its power down low, under 4500-RPM, so the lower the gear (higher, numerically), the better (racing wise)....
I'll have to diagree with whoever is telling you this, as TPI makes its power down low, under 4500-RPM, so the lower the gear (higher, numerically), the better (racing wise)....
I've ridden in a 4.10 equipped L98. The owner of the GTA swapped in a 4th gen rear that already had the gears - his previous gears were 3.27s. The car was slower than before the swap - strip proven. He lost .2-.3 tenths and 1-2 MPH. It would get off the line really fast, then just slowed down as the revs climbed.
Have you ever ridden in a 2.7x/3.0x/3.2x equipped car, and then changed the gears to 4.1x cogs? It winds up MUCH MUCH faster. Plus when you're already at a roll, the rpms are much much higher, which is bad for TPI.
If I had a street L98 I'd put 3.4x gears in it for sure. Of course I wouldn't even bother with gears before I swapped the TPI for an HSR, but that is hypothetical.
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Originally posted by urbanhunter44.And I'll disagree with that. It seems to me that L98s would benefit most from 3.4xs if they're an otherwise stock street car, keeping the rpms low and not making them rev like hell.
Reiterating on the "balancing act" concept, I'll bet you any amount of money (friendly, so don't take it the wrong way), that I'll run a lower ET, naturally aspirated, in an otherwise stock L98 with 4.10's, than you can with 3.42's....
Of course, the stock 700-R4's internal gearing will hinder the potential a 4.10 cog can provide down low, but this is nothing a TCI "Saturday Night Special" converter, and lower set of transmission gearing can't fix (mainly first and second)....
If I implied that 4.10's will do wonders on a relatively "stock" L98, then I apologize, as my point was to balance it out, of course.
Originally posted by urbanhunter44.I've ridden in a 4.10 equipped L98. The owner of the GTA swapped in a 4th gen rear that already had the gears - his previous gears were 3.27s. The car was slower than before the swap - strip proven.
Last edited by Street Lethal; 10-17-2005 at 02:36 PM.
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Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
Originally posted by Street Lethal
"Keeping RPM's low"? It's apparent that you are relying on the L98's torque to win you're arguement. The sad truth is, even with 3.4x gearing, you're still in the 14's with an otherwise stock L98....
Reiterating on the "balancing act" concept, I'll bet you any amount of money (friendly, so don't take it the wrong way), that I'll run a lower ET, naturally aspirated, in an otherwise stock L98 with 4.10's, than you can with 3.42's....
Of course, the stock 700-R4's internal gearing will hinder the potential a 4.10 cog can provide down low, but this is nothing a TCI "Saturday Night Special" converter, and lower set of transmission gearing can't fix (mainly first and second)....
If I implied that 4.10's will do wonders on a relatively "stock" L98, then I apologize, as my point was to balance it out, of course.
Well, this also has much to do with the driver.
"Keeping RPM's low"? It's apparent that you are relying on the L98's torque to win you're arguement. The sad truth is, even with 3.4x gearing, you're still in the 14's with an otherwise stock L98....
Reiterating on the "balancing act" concept, I'll bet you any amount of money (friendly, so don't take it the wrong way), that I'll run a lower ET, naturally aspirated, in an otherwise stock L98 with 4.10's, than you can with 3.42's....
Of course, the stock 700-R4's internal gearing will hinder the potential a 4.10 cog can provide down low, but this is nothing a TCI "Saturday Night Special" converter, and lower set of transmission gearing can't fix (mainly first and second)....
If I implied that 4.10's will do wonders on a relatively "stock" L98, then I apologize, as my point was to balance it out, of course.
Well, this also has much to do with the driver.
Maybe you would, however I'll bet that I'd run better with 3.73s than you would with 4.10s, based on my personal experience with L98 cars. I even said this above, in a strip car I'd put 3.73s, not 3.4xs.
No one was even talking about changing gearing in the transmission. I bet less than 1% of TGOs members have gone that far.
Also, imo, TCI converters are for people who want to cheap out on their build. If you want a real converter, go with a Vig or a Yank. But again, that's just my opinion.
And my friend with the GTA, his 60 ft/330 ft times were very comparable between each run and his et/mph was very consistant, only varying with temperature. He is an excellent driver. The tranny was a 700R4 with stock gearing but built up a little, and he was on DRs (nitto 555rs I believe). He has since changed to 3.73s.
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Originally posted by urbanhunter44.My keeping rpms low comment had to do with the fact I was speaking about a street car and keeping the rpms down on the highway is a plus for a daily driver.
Let's also remember that the stock TPI is an absolute dog at higher RPM's, so the only real benefit out on the highway is gas mileage. Which if this is the case, fine, 3.42's win over 4.10's.
Originally posted by urbanhunter44. based on my personal experience with L98 cars.
Originally posted by urbanhunter44.No one was even talking about changing gearing in the transmission. I bet less than 1% of TGOs members have gone that far.
.... and still, the majority of them seem to 'give up' after a few months, than go the Mustang/Import route.
Originally posted by urbanhunter44.Also, imo, TCI converters are for people who want to cheap out on their build. If you want a real converter, go with a Vig or a Yank. But again, that's just my opinion.
Originally posted by urbanhunter44.And my friend with the GTA, his 60 ft/330 ft times were very comparable between each run and his et/mph was very consistant, only varying with temperature. He is an excellent driver. The tranny was a 700R4 with stock gearing but built up a little, and he was on DRs (nitto 555rs I believe). He has since changed to 3.73s.
Last edited by Street Lethal; 10-17-2005 at 04:03 PM.
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Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by Street Lethal
I'll have to diagree with whoever is telling you this, as TPI makes its power down low, under 4500-RPM, so the lower the gear (higher, numerically), the better (racing wise)....
I'll have to diagree with whoever is telling you this, as TPI makes its power down low, under 4500-RPM, so the lower the gear (higher, numerically), the better (racing wise)....
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Originally posted by ShiftyCapone.You want to pick a gear that will keep your engine operating over the longest part of its powerband.
Funny how most of the guys running Pontiac engine's (low RPM, torque motors) at the track elect to run with 4.56's. I guess they haven't heard about the potential of those 3.42's yet....
Originally posted by ShiftyCapone.Going with a numerically higher gear can slow you down if your motor has a narrow powerband. A TPI motor has a narrow powerband and you want to pick a gear that will allow you to accelerate through that narrow band.
... and even if they were, port out the stock TPI's intake, plenum, throttle body, and throw in a much more aggresive cam, and the 4.10 shines over the 3.42. Which is pretty much what my point was all along.
Originally posted by ShiftyCapone.A higher gear will reduce the amount of time you spend in each gear, thus keeping you out of the of the usable powerband.
Originally posted by ShiftyCapone.Going bigger does not necessarily mean you are better off.
I can go to the track this Wednesday night, reiterate everything that I just read here, and this still won't change the fact that in 1/4 mile racing, the guys who are running sub-eleven timelsips, are the guys running much taller gears (naturally aspirated, of course)....
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Car: 1999 Saturn SL2
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I think you missed the point that we're talking about a stock L98 here.
I highly doubt any of those sub-eleven timeslip racers are using TPI as their choice of induction, either.
I highly doubt any of those sub-eleven timeslip racers are using TPI as their choice of induction, either.
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Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by Nate86
I think you missed the point that we're talking about a stock L98 here.
I highly doubt any of those sub-eleven timeslip racers are using TPI as their choice of induction, either.
I think you missed the point that we're talking about a stock L98 here.
I highly doubt any of those sub-eleven timeslip racers are using TPI as their choice of induction, either.
Guys who run elevens most likely have a motor that makes flat power over a 4k rpm range between 2500 and 6500. Since the motor makes power at such high range, using a numerically high gear gives them the most mechanical advantage while maintaining increased acceleration. This theory applies to any engine no matter what power it makes. A stock L98 has roughly a 3k power range from 1500 to 4500rpm. You therefore want a gear that is going to give you the most mechanical advantage and acceleration. A gear that is too tall will not give you this. You will have tons of mechanical advantage at the cost of decreased acceleration. You will waste usable powerband. You want to select a gear that gives you both. The gear you choose isn't some NASCAR gear by default.
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z Camaro
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI - SLP Runners, AFPR, MSD Goodies
Transmission: 700R4 - Shift Kit, Corvette Servo
Axle/Gears: BW 9 bolt, 3.27s
All I know is if you run 4.10's with TPI, you better have mad crazy 60 ft times.
I love my 3.27's, they wind up real nicely. Bangs into 2nd around 45 and 3rd at about 74. Havent hit the OD shift yet at full throttle. I've rode in a TPI car with 4.10, unless all of your races are 0-40, forget it.
I love my 3.27's, they wind up real nicely. Bangs into 2nd around 45 and 3rd at about 74. Havent hit the OD shift yet at full throttle. I've rode in a TPI car with 4.10, unless all of your races are 0-40, forget it.
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: TPI 5.7 L
Transmission: 4L60 w/Vigilante 2,400 Stall
Axle/Gears: Girdled 10 bolt/3.23's
If you want to see how great 3.73-4.10 gears are for a stock TPI, try running the combo thru Desktop Drag or something similar. This about sums it up . Beyond the fact that you'll never hook up on the factory 245/50/16's, you'll also run out of powerband. Ideally, aren't you supposed to cross the finish line at peak power? Keep in mind that built TPI Vettes, I'm talking heads, cam, ported plenum, ported base, big runners and TB are running low 12's with 3.08 gears. The TPI intake design simply will not flow enough air above 4,500 RPM to satisfy a 10 second N/A car.
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Car: 87 Buick GN
Engine: 3.8L (231 cid) V6
Transmission: 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt G80/ 3.42
Originally posted by Blu91Z28
Keep in mind that built TPI Vettes, I'm talking heads, cam, ported plenum, ported base, big runners and TB are running low 12's with 3.08 gears. The TPI intake design simply will not flow enough air above 4,500 RPM to satisfy a 10 second N/A car.
Keep in mind that built TPI Vettes, I'm talking heads, cam, ported plenum, ported base, big runners and TB are running low 12's with 3.08 gears. The TPI intake design simply will not flow enough air above 4,500 RPM to satisfy a 10 second N/A car.
One Vette guy swapped from 3.08s to 3.42s and did not gain anything. Keep in mind it's a Superramed 383 that already ran mid to high 11s at 116-117 mph, IIRC.
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z Camaro
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI - SLP Runners, AFPR, MSD Goodies
Transmission: 700R4 - Shift Kit, Corvette Servo
Axle/Gears: BW 9 bolt, 3.27s
All 4.10s are good at doing is drinking gas.
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Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
Maybe for an L98, but in my LT1 I retained decent gas mileage with my 4.10s, and they compliment my powerband extremely nicely.
Yeah I think street lethal missed the point that we were talking about bolt-on L98 cars here. Most people on TGO will never open their motor.
Yeah I think street lethal missed the point that we were talking about bolt-on L98 cars here. Most people on TGO will never open their motor.
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Car: 89 IROCZ
Engine: L98 4150 carb
Transmission: Transgo 700-r4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt/3.23
Originally posted by urbanhunter44
catback only A4 3.23 '94 LT1 (fully loaded at full weight) with 145k will pull a ZZ4 cammed/full exhaust/chipped L98 IROC with 1500 miles on the engine through the whole powerband.
catback only A4 3.23 '94 LT1 (fully loaded at full weight) with 145k will pull a ZZ4 cammed/full exhaust/chipped L98 IROC with 1500 miles on the engine through the whole powerband.
Last edited by 3.492rs; 10-26-2005 at 03:17 AM.
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Car: 89 IROCZ
Engine: L98 4150 carb
Transmission: Transgo 700-r4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt/3.23
Originally posted by urbanhunter44
but in my LT1 I retained decent gas mileage with my 4.10s, and they compliment my powerband extremely nicely.
but in my LT1 I retained decent gas mileage with my 4.10s, and they compliment my powerband extremely nicely.
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z Camaro
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI - SLP Runners, AFPR, MSD Goodies
Transmission: 700R4 - Shift Kit, Corvette Servo
Axle/Gears: BW 9 bolt, 3.27s
Originally posted by urbanhunter44
Maybe for an L98, but in my LT1 I retained decent gas mileage with my 4.10s, and they compliment my powerband extremely nicely.
Yeah I think street lethal missed the point that we were talking about bolt-on L98 cars here. Most people on TGO will never open their motor.
Maybe for an L98, but in my LT1 I retained decent gas mileage with my 4.10s, and they compliment my powerband extremely nicely.
Yeah I think street lethal missed the point that we were talking about bolt-on L98 cars here. Most people on TGO will never open their motor.
4.10's + TPI = Tire Shredder or Fastest 40 mph drag car.
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Car: 1991 pontiac GTA, and a1992 pontiac firebird
Engine: 5.7 l98, and a 3.1 for now
Transmission: 700-r4s
my friend had a 4.10 in his 88 t/a when he got it. its a 305 tpi. he tried to pass me from about three lenghts back one time, by the time he got up to my door, his car was winding out. i just kept accelerating. thats the only time my 3.1 bird beat him! lol. he swapped it out for a 3.23 soon after, now his car dosent shut down at 80.
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Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
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Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
Originally posted by 3.492rs
hey my car didn't have full exhaust/tuned chip and it had 2.77 gears and it only had 650 miles on the motor when we raced,it blew up at 1200miles u should know that, its been sitting in ur shop for 7 months now
hey my car didn't have full exhaust/tuned chip and it had 2.77 gears and it only had 650 miles on the motor when we raced,it blew up at 1200miles u should know that, its been sitting in ur shop for 7 months now
And my gas mileage is fine, its about 23 mpg highway now.
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Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
Originally posted by mustbeatmopar
my friend had a 4.10 in his 88 t/a when he got it. its a 305 tpi. he tried to pass me from about three lenghts back one time, by the time he got up to my door, his car was winding out. i just kept accelerating. thats the only time my 3.1 bird beat him! lol. he swapped it out for a 3.23 soon after, now his car dosent shut down at 80.
my friend had a 4.10 in his 88 t/a when he got it. its a 305 tpi. he tried to pass me from about three lenghts back one time, by the time he got up to my door, his car was winding out. i just kept accelerating. thats the only time my 3.1 bird beat him! lol. he swapped it out for a 3.23 soon after, now his car dosent shut down at 80.
Maybe for a ported out/siamesed runners/chipped with better shift points L98 then I might consider 3.73s.
Under no circumstances 4.10s.
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Car: 89 IROCZ
Engine: L98 4150 carb
Transmission: Transgo 700-r4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt/3.23
Originally posted by urbanhunter44
it had shorties, a new cat and a catback, how is that not full exhaust? and it had a chip, albeit a crappy one.
And my gas mileage is fine, its about 23 mpg highway now.
it had shorties, a new cat and a catback, how is that not full exhaust? and it had a chip, albeit a crappy one.
And my gas mileage is fine, its about 23 mpg highway now.
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Car: '72 Chevy Nova
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Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
Originally posted by 3.492rs
shorties yes, stock cat, stock 2.25in pipes, blowmaster muffler= not full exhaust. chip hypercrap=stock tuning
shorties yes, stock cat, stock 2.25in pipes, blowmaster muffler= not full exhaust. chip hypercrap=stock tuning
And yes, headers and a catback is full exhaust.
Hypertech, while being crappy, is better than stock.
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z Camaro
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI - SLP Runners, AFPR, MSD Goodies
Transmission: 700R4 - Shift Kit, Corvette Servo
Axle/Gears: BW 9 bolt, 3.27s
Originally posted by urbanhunter44
Those aren't stock pipes under your car, wtf are you talking about?? They're 3" pipes. And even if they were stock pipes, the stock pipes on an L98 IROC are 2.5", not 2.25" smartie.
And yes, headers and a catback is full exhaust.
Hypertech, while being crappy, is better than stock.
Those aren't stock pipes under your car, wtf are you talking about?? They're 3" pipes. And even if they were stock pipes, the stock pipes on an L98 IROC are 2.5", not 2.25" smartie.
And yes, headers and a catback is full exhaust.
Hypertech, while being crappy, is better than stock.
Still need a prom to run super well though
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Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
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Originally posted by 89IrocZ350TPI
I dont know why so many people bash Hypertech.
I dont know why so many people bash Hypertech.
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Car: ws6
Engine: ls1
Transmission: m6
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally posted by ShiftyCapone
Because they add fuel and spark where it is not needed. It is a stab in the dark tune based on "guessed" parameters. You wouldn’t do mail order surgery so why would you do a mail order tune? Hypertech isn't that good but they have enough naive customers to keep them in business. Modern closed loop fuel injected systems need to be in the hands of the tuner to be properly re-calibrated.
Because they add fuel and spark where it is not needed. It is a stab in the dark tune based on "guessed" parameters. You wouldn’t do mail order surgery so why would you do a mail order tune? Hypertech isn't that good but they have enough naive customers to keep them in business. Modern closed loop fuel injected systems need to be in the hands of the tuner to be properly re-calibrated.
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Car: 1989 IROC
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Re: 95 Lt1
Originally posted by 87TPI350KID
This week we had a local Fbody gathering. Some nice cars came out as well as a bunch of my friends. One of them got a new Lt1 car, beautiful. It has an Auto, 2.7x gears, LT1 and 76k miles. I was curious to see how I could match up so we ran it on the highway to about 80 mph. It was from a 10 mph roll or so and we gunned it, my gears and torque helped me pull a quick 3 car lengths, then his lt1 started reving pretty high and caught me at about 40 mph, then i started to pull ahead a little bit and put a fender on them where he stayed till about 80.
He would have DEFF had me if he had some better gears. Not bad considering it was an LT1, all stock though.
This week we had a local Fbody gathering. Some nice cars came out as well as a bunch of my friends. One of them got a new Lt1 car, beautiful. It has an Auto, 2.7x gears, LT1 and 76k miles. I was curious to see how I could match up so we ran it on the highway to about 80 mph. It was from a 10 mph roll or so and we gunned it, my gears and torque helped me pull a quick 3 car lengths, then his lt1 started reving pretty high and caught me at about 40 mph, then i started to pull ahead a little bit and put a fender on them where he stayed till about 80.
He would have DEFF had me if he had some better gears. Not bad considering it was an LT1, all stock though.
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Re: Re: 95 Lt1
Originally posted by 80smetalfan
I've got a buddy with a 94 Formula LT1 with an A4 and 2.73s who runs 14.2s+ all day long. What's really irritating about it is that he will sit and badmouth 3rdgens all day long, talking about how there's no comparison between his car and an L98, and he's not really that much faster, if any. I'd love to get a nice well-preserved L98 and race him (though considering he has ignition problems out the wazoo now, it probably wouldn't be much of a race). I've seen a lot on here with the right drivers and bolt-ons that run 14.2's or faster. Even if I only tied him with his car running right, he'd be really embarrassed and look retarded, as he constantly badmouths anything SBC that's Gen I.
I've got a buddy with a 94 Formula LT1 with an A4 and 2.73s who runs 14.2s+ all day long. What's really irritating about it is that he will sit and badmouth 3rdgens all day long, talking about how there's no comparison between his car and an L98, and he's not really that much faster, if any. I'd love to get a nice well-preserved L98 and race him (though considering he has ignition problems out the wazoo now, it probably wouldn't be much of a race). I've seen a lot on here with the right drivers and bolt-ons that run 14.2's or faster. Even if I only tied him with his car running right, he'd be really embarrassed and look retarded, as he constantly badmouths anything SBC that's Gen I.
#45
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Thats just something you got to deal with. Some LT1 owners talk down about L98's, and some LS1 owners talk down to the LT1. When it comes down to it Ls1 > Lt1 > L98. Unless you get into internals.
Looks and handling are a different story though
Looks and handling are a different story though
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
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Re: Re: 95 Lt1
Originally posted by 80smetalfan
I've got a buddy with a 94 Formula LT1 with an A4 and 2.73s who runs 14.2s+ all day long. What's really irritating about it is that he will sit and badmouth 3rdgens all day long, talking about how there's no comparison between his car and an L98, and he's not really that much faster, if any. I'd love to get a nice well-preserved L98 and race him (though considering he has ignition problems out the wazoo now, it probably wouldn't be much of a race). I've seen a lot on here with the right drivers and bolt-ons that run 14.2's or faster. Even if I only tied him with his car running right, he'd be really embarrassed and look retarded, as he constantly badmouths anything SBC that's Gen I.
I've got a buddy with a 94 Formula LT1 with an A4 and 2.73s who runs 14.2s+ all day long. What's really irritating about it is that he will sit and badmouth 3rdgens all day long, talking about how there's no comparison between his car and an L98, and he's not really that much faster, if any. I'd love to get a nice well-preserved L98 and race him (though considering he has ignition problems out the wazoo now, it probably wouldn't be much of a race). I've seen a lot on here with the right drivers and bolt-ons that run 14.2's or faster. Even if I only tied him with his car running right, he'd be really embarrassed and look retarded, as he constantly badmouths anything SBC that's Gen I.
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Car: '72 Chevy Nova
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Originally posted by IROCThe5.7L
Thats just something you got to deal with. Some LT1 owners talk down about L98's, and some LS1 owners talk down to the LT1. When it comes down to it Ls1 > Lt1 > L98. Unless you get into internals.
Looks and handling are a different story though
Thats just something you got to deal with. Some LT1 owners talk down about L98's, and some LS1 owners talk down to the LT1. When it comes down to it Ls1 > Lt1 > L98. Unless you get into internals.
Looks and handling are a different story though
People that talk **** then get owned deserve it, however just because one guy ran a 14.4 in an LT1 doesn't mean they all run that. In fact I bet if you let me drive that car it would run several tenths quicker. The A4 LT1s run typically 13.9-14.1 trapping much higher than L98s.
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Car: 1989 IROC
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Originally posted by urbanhunter44
Actually all of those engines you mentioned have the exact same potential. Actually if you wanted to argue a little, the LS1 actually has less potential than the LT1 and L98, all in stock forms.
People that talk **** then get owned deserve it, however just because one guy ran a 14.4 in an LT1 doesn't mean they all run that. In fact I bet if you let me drive that car it would run several tenths quicker. The A4 LT1s run typically 13.9-14.1 trapping much higher than L98s.
Actually all of those engines you mentioned have the exact same potential. Actually if you wanted to argue a little, the LS1 actually has less potential than the LT1 and L98, all in stock forms.
People that talk **** then get owned deserve it, however just because one guy ran a 14.4 in an LT1 doesn't mean they all run that. In fact I bet if you let me drive that car it would run several tenths quicker. The A4 LT1s run typically 13.9-14.1 trapping much higher than L98s.
The difference between us and Gen. II/Gen. III is mainly the fact that their cars respond like crazy to kinda basic bolt-ons.
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
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Axle/Gears: Girdled 10 bolt/3.23's
Originally posted by urbanhunter44
Actually all of those engines you mentioned have the exact same potential. Actually if you wanted to argue a little, the LS1 actually has less potential than the LT1 and L98, all in stock forms.
People that talk **** then get owned deserve it, however just because one guy ran a 14.4 in an LT1 doesn't mean they all run that. In fact I bet if you let me drive that car it would run several tenths quicker. The A4 LT1s run typically 13.9-14.1 trapping much higher than L98s.
Actually all of those engines you mentioned have the exact same potential. Actually if you wanted to argue a little, the LS1 actually has less potential than the LT1 and L98, all in stock forms.
People that talk **** then get owned deserve it, however just because one guy ran a 14.4 in an LT1 doesn't mean they all run that. In fact I bet if you let me drive that car it would run several tenths quicker. The A4 LT1s run typically 13.9-14.1 trapping much higher than L98s.
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Car: 1994 25th Anniversary Trans Am
Engine: Lt1
Transmission: A4
My auto pulls 2.0-2.1 60' with stock suspension on stock 16 inch wheels. My friend's 95 T/A bone stock cuts the same 60' as well as my other friends 95 Z28. So realistically, at least around my area, Lt1's are cutting decent 60' on stock suspension/tires. Also, I've never lost to a thirdgen on the road or at the track. But I'm assuimg none of them were more than stock to minor bolt on cars. And no, they weren't Lo3's
Anyways, not bashing thirdgens, being a former owner myself I have come to love both and appareciate both of their pros and cons. Started with a Lo3...upgraded to a Lo5, had a L98 for a short time, and now I'm at the Lt1 and still craving more. But I dont understand why people believe its so expensive to mod the 4th gens. For the Lt1's anyways, I bet you'd be pressed to find a more cost eficient H/C package for 1100 that produces 370-390rwhp or a cam/bolt on car yielding 320-350rwhp for a thirdgen.
Anyways, not bashing thirdgens, being a former owner myself I have come to love both and appareciate both of their pros and cons. Started with a Lo3...upgraded to a Lo5, had a L98 for a short time, and now I'm at the Lt1 and still craving more. But I dont understand why people believe its so expensive to mod the 4th gens. For the Lt1's anyways, I bet you'd be pressed to find a more cost eficient H/C package for 1100 that produces 370-390rwhp or a cam/bolt on car yielding 320-350rwhp for a thirdgen.