95 Lt1
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Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
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Originally posted by Blu91Z28
Of course they don't all run 14.4. The majority run 14.2-14.7 around here though. Granted that's usually in the hot and humid Summer! They should have no problem running high 13's-low 14's now, stock. Why is it with your mods you're only running 13.9's? You should be low 13's easy! Maybe even high 12's with me driving, lol. And yeah, the A4 LT1's do trap 3-4 MPH higher than a L98 but best of luck finding one that will cut a 1.9-2.0 60 ft. stock like the L98 cars do. That's why they can run similar times with the MPH difference. You LT1 guys get a beautiful view of 3rd gen tailights all the way to the top of the track! My buddies high 12 second '00 SS M6 sees tailights until right around the 1/8 and then I get blown by like I'm standing still.
Of course they don't all run 14.4. The majority run 14.2-14.7 around here though. Granted that's usually in the hot and humid Summer! They should have no problem running high 13's-low 14's now, stock. Why is it with your mods you're only running 13.9's? You should be low 13's easy! Maybe even high 12's with me driving, lol. And yeah, the A4 LT1's do trap 3-4 MPH higher than a L98 but best of luck finding one that will cut a 1.9-2.0 60 ft. stock like the L98 cars do. That's why they can run similar times with the MPH difference. You LT1 guys get a beautiful view of 3rd gen tailights all the way to the top of the track! My buddies high 12 second '00 SS M6 sees tailights until right around the 1/8 and then I get blown by like I'm standing still.
And LT1 cars can easily cut a 1.9-2.0 stock. I've seen them do it even on street tires. With a set of drag radials as the ONLY mod I've seen an otherwise stock LT1 pull a 1.79 60 ft. It was a 95 T/A, with 40,000 miles.
Have you ever even seen an LT1 dyno graph? stock vs stock the LT1 has just as much TQ at the same rpm as an L98, the difference being that it holds it for much much longer. I consistantly hand LS1s their asses in the 1/8 mile, only to have them catch and beat me in the quarter by a car or two.
Also think of the modding response between the two engines.. all it takes for an otherwise stock LT1 to reach 12.9s@104-105 is a catback, DRs, tuning and gears. Free mods won't hurt either. There are two local LT1s running that exact setup at my college and running those times consistantly, and it's exactly what I'm trying to duplicate. It takes more than that to make an L98 pull those times. Not to mention the bolt-on LT1 record (3500 lbs raceweight, stock style suspension) is 11.94, with most full bolt-on cars being in the low 12s with a competant driver and a nice set of shoes.
And as cas pointed out, there are ~$1100 heads/cam packages that can put down 390 RWHP. That's using mildly (MILDLY) ported stock heads and a smoggable cam. You can hog these heads all the way to 275 cfm.
I'm not at all badmouthing the L98, it's still a 350 SBC, and with a little work can be a very competant street engine, and can ET very nicely. However with the TPI on there it will NEVER trap as well as its ET might suggest. On the street however downlow power is what matters the most and the L98 has plenty of it, as does the LT1.
#52
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Originally posted by urbanhunter44
Actually all of those engines you mentioned have the exact same potential.
Actually all of those engines you mentioned have the exact same potential.
I agree. I meant stock.
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Originally posted by urbanhunter44
Have you ever even seen an LT1 dyno graph? stock vs stock the LT1 has just as much TQ at the same rpm as an L98, the difference being that it holds it for much much longer. I consistantly hand LS1s their asses in the 1/8 mile, only to have them catch and beat me in the quarter by a car or two.
Have you ever even seen an LT1 dyno graph? stock vs stock the LT1 has just as much TQ at the same rpm as an L98, the difference being that it holds it for much much longer. I consistantly hand LS1s their asses in the 1/8 mile, only to have them catch and beat me in the quarter by a car or two.
Good luck in your quest for 12's but traction isn't the answer. You're only trapping just over 100. I'd say you'll need atleast 104-105 to sneak into the 12's. It's weird though, because stock you should be trapping where you are now.
#54
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Originally posted by urbanhunter44
I I consistantly hand LS1s their asses in the 1/8 mile, only to have them catch and beat me in the quarter by a car or two.
I I consistantly hand LS1s their asses in the 1/8 mile, only to have them catch and beat me in the quarter by a car or two.
Thats happened to me too a couple times too. On the street that is, so no 1/4 mile. But they start realing me in hard before we shutdown.
Heres a vid from our track here, classic bolt on L98 vs Bolt on LT1. I'm sure you all know what happens. Video.
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Car: '72 Chevy Nova
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Originally posted by Blu91Z28
Yeah, I've seen them and I've seen tons of sig numbers over on CZ28 that are 20-30 Ft. Lbs. below what my car did with K&N's and a Cat-back, so I'm highly doubting that stock for stock they make more Torque. Maybe an M6 car but since we're talking equal comparison, I'm talking auto vs. auto. HP yes but the TPI intake was designed for Torque. Just take a look at the Intake shootout thread in the TPI forum. The Torque monsters were the Long tube runner intakes and the HP kings were the short runner intakes. It's all in the design.
Good luck in your quest for 12's but traction isn't the answer. You're only trapping just over 100. I'd say you'll need atleast 104-105 to sneak into the 12's. It's weird though, because stock you should be trapping where you are now.
Yeah, I've seen them and I've seen tons of sig numbers over on CZ28 that are 20-30 Ft. Lbs. below what my car did with K&N's and a Cat-back, so I'm highly doubting that stock for stock they make more Torque. Maybe an M6 car but since we're talking equal comparison, I'm talking auto vs. auto. HP yes but the TPI intake was designed for Torque. Just take a look at the Intake shootout thread in the TPI forum. The Torque monsters were the Long tube runner intakes and the HP kings were the short runner intakes. It's all in the design.
Good luck in your quest for 12's but traction isn't the answer. You're only trapping just over 100. I'd say you'll need atleast 104-105 to sneak into the 12's. It's weird though, because stock you should be trapping where you are now.
LTR setups will make more peak, but not average. Not to mention TPI dies at about 4800 rpm. There is no comparison between the two intakes imo. And on an engine dyno, a stock LT1 will make at LEAST 305 hp and 345 tq.
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Originally posted by IROCThe5.7L
Thats happened to me too a couple times too. On the street that is, so no 1/4 mile. But they start realing me in hard before we shutdown.
Heres a vid from our track here, classic bolt on L98 vs Bolt on LT1. I'm sure you all know what happens. Video.
Thats happened to me too a couple times too. On the street that is, so no 1/4 mile. But they start realing me in hard before we shutdown.
Heres a vid from our track here, classic bolt on L98 vs Bolt on LT1. I'm sure you all know what happens. Video.
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
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Originally posted by urbanhunter44
And on an engine dyno, a stock LT1 will make at LEAST 305 hp and 345 tq.
And on an engine dyno, a stock LT1 will make at LEAST 305 hp and 345 tq.
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
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Originally posted by 89IrocZ350TPI
Do you know what the bolt ons are for each car by any chance?
Do you know what the bolt ons are for each car by any chance?
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Originally posted by IROCThe5.7L
Thats happened to me too a couple times too. On the street that is, so no 1/4 mile. But they start realing me in hard before we shutdown.
Heres a vid from our track here, classic bolt on L98 vs Bolt on LT1. I'm sure you all know what happens. Video.
Thats happened to me too a couple times too. On the street that is, so no 1/4 mile. But they start realing me in hard before we shutdown.
Heres a vid from our track here, classic bolt on L98 vs Bolt on LT1. I'm sure you all know what happens. Video.
#60
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I don't know the guys too well. But both are bolt ons. The LT1 is an A4, long tubes, and a GMMG.
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Originally posted by 87TPI350KID
Wow, that TPI owned him in the 8th mile,
Wow, that TPI owned him in the 8th mile,
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Originally posted by Blu91Z28
If that's the case then why are there so many running low-mid 14's? There's no way I'm making 305 crank HP. My car is a pig by 3rd gen weight standards, 3,480 Lbs. without me. It just doesn't add up!
If that's the case then why are there so many running low-mid 14's? There's no way I'm making 305 crank HP. My car is a pig by 3rd gen weight standards, 3,480 Lbs. without me. It just doesn't add up!
However that run was the best of 4, with the engine stone cold and fans blowing at her. The subsequent runs only showed a decrease of about 5-8 hp with the temp rising.
Last edited by urbanhunter44; 11-04-2005 at 03:37 PM.
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Car: 1994 25th Anniversary Trans Am
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Very very impressive dyno numbers Urban, was this on a mustang dyno? If not, that's awesome numbers. Most people in the autos with full exhaust and other bolt ons are around 270-290rwhp. I myself am hoping for around 280 but I wont know for sure till I get it on the dyno which is hopefully soon. Anyhow, great numbers, and you dont even have headers!
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Originally posted by cas0484
Very very impressive dyno numbers Urban,
Very very impressive dyno numbers Urban,
Agreed, is that 13.9 run in your sig old?
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
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Originally posted by urbanhunter44
Because they don't know how to drive. A 3.23 geared A4 LT1 of any year can run a mid 13 easily bone stock except for some tires and a decent driver. On another note, check my sig for dyno numbers. That is WITHOUT tuning, and with it richening up to 11.2:1 at WOT at 5500. Although admittedly both me and the dyno guy agree that she's something of a freak. We both had expected about 285-290.
However that run was the best of 4, with the engine stone cold and fans blowing at her. The subsequent runs only showed a decrease of about 5-8 hp with the temp rising.
Because they don't know how to drive. A 3.23 geared A4 LT1 of any year can run a mid 13 easily bone stock except for some tires and a decent driver. On another note, check my sig for dyno numbers. That is WITHOUT tuning, and with it richening up to 11.2:1 at WOT at 5500. Although admittedly both me and the dyno guy agree that she's something of a freak. We both had expected about 285-290.
However that run was the best of 4, with the engine stone cold and fans blowing at her. The subsequent runs only showed a decrease of about 5-8 hp with the temp rising.
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Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
Yeah, we used a little trick to get her to run in third without downshifting, but she did it.
Yes that 13.9 run was from when I had 3.23s and just a catback on crappy tires with a crappy 60 in crappy weather I want to get her to the track ASAP, just need my tranny shiftpoints reset after the gears because she bangs the rev limiter now haha
The dyno we used was a mustang dyno, but his software allowed him to measure the car's power the same way a dynojet does, so in essence yes I used a dynojet. Very impressive software setup he had. I am actually going to be working with him closely on my LT1 and other LT1s in the future.
She is a very impressive runner for her mods, I was honestly expecting much less. And she isn't even tuned yet!
Yes that 13.9 run was from when I had 3.23s and just a catback on crappy tires with a crappy 60 in crappy weather I want to get her to the track ASAP, just need my tranny shiftpoints reset after the gears because she bangs the rev limiter now haha
The dyno we used was a mustang dyno, but his software allowed him to measure the car's power the same way a dynojet does, so in essence yes I used a dynojet. Very impressive software setup he had. I am actually going to be working with him closely on my LT1 and other LT1s in the future.
She is a very impressive runner for her mods, I was honestly expecting much less. And she isn't even tuned yet!
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Car: 94 Z28
Engine: LT1 w/ headers, catback, CAI, tune
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23s
Do you happen to know of any numbers for some other cars like a stock LS1 or something from that particular dyno? Not to put down your car at all (as mine is very similar and I'd love to believe 300+rwhp) but I don't buy those rwhp numbers for one second w/ those mods on a LT1 A4. Being a Mustang dyno w/ screwed with settings to attempt to read more like a dynojet I am highly suspect of it's accuracy, way too high for the mods on a LT1 auto IMO even if it was a straight up dynojet... If those numbers are accurate at all you have a superfreak of a LT1, I'm talking world record superfreak which I find highly unlikely... Do you have a graph of that run, that wasn't a spike of somekind was it? It's seriously like 30+ rwhp higher than one would expect unless I'm missing some mods...
You basically have a decent cat-back setup, no cat, CAI/elbow and free mods correct? There are plenty of longtube headers/exhaust/rockers/intake/tune M6 LT1 dynos that I've seen that barely match your numbers...
No way does my 3.23 geared 94 LT1 auto put down anywhere near 300rwhp w/ similar mods to yours...
You basically have a decent cat-back setup, no cat, CAI/elbow and free mods correct? There are plenty of longtube headers/exhaust/rockers/intake/tune M6 LT1 dynos that I've seen that barely match your numbers...
No way does my 3.23 geared 94 LT1 auto put down anywhere near 300rwhp w/ similar mods to yours...
Last edited by Ray87Z; 11-05-2005 at 02:38 AM.
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
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Transmission: 4L60 w/Vigilante 2,400 Stall
Axle/Gears: Girdled 10 bolt/3.23's
What's the little trick to keep the transmission in 3rd? I'd like to pass it on to my current dyno shop.
Yeah, I'd be suspect of the numbers if the shop was trying to make a Mustang read like a Dynojet. The dyno is a great tuning tool and it's interesting to see what kind of HP/TQ improvements each round of mods make on it. In the end though, the numbers are meaningless. The only numbers that count are on the track. It's kind of like that Supra joke. What do a 400 HP, a 600 HP and a 800 HP Supra have in common? 12 second 1/4 miles
I've dyno'd on 1 standard calibrated Dynojet and 3 corrected Dynojets. The standard numbers are a solid 20 HP/TQ higher but the corrected seem more realistic, hence I'll stick with those for the sig.
Yeah, I'd be suspect of the numbers if the shop was trying to make a Mustang read like a Dynojet. The dyno is a great tuning tool and it's interesting to see what kind of HP/TQ improvements each round of mods make on it. In the end though, the numbers are meaningless. The only numbers that count are on the track. It's kind of like that Supra joke. What do a 400 HP, a 600 HP and a 800 HP Supra have in common? 12 second 1/4 miles
I've dyno'd on 1 standard calibrated Dynojet and 3 corrected Dynojets. The standard numbers are a solid 20 HP/TQ higher but the corrected seem more realistic, hence I'll stick with those for the sig.
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Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
The way the software was set up, it ran identical to the way a dynojet would set in standard calibration, iirc.
My car is an extremely strong runner, but we backed it up with 4 subsequent runs. I will have a dynograph next week to post up after she gets tuned. And these numbers are high, but not incredibly uncommon. Take a look around LS1tech and you'll see.
He had a bonestock LS1 dyno 307 rwhp dynojet converted, so I'd say his dyno is very accurate.
He had a program that changed the shiftpoints and we flashed the PCM with it. Very, very handy.
But like blu said, all that matters are track times and I'll have those shortly. Should be hitting 12.9s.
Also:
Then something is HORRIBLY wrong with their cars. Those mods on an LT1, especially M6, should easily be in the 320-330 range. That's about as high as it gets for bolt-ons. Once again, check LS1tech, I think there was just a thread about bolt-on HP readings.
Many people underestimate the LT1 and only compare it to the LS1, you have to realize that these are incredible motors, and each motor responds differently to mods. Also some motors are stronger than others in general, and there are many, MANY things that can affect a dyno. My best run was my first, and the car was nice and cool.
I'm just as surprised with her output as you guys, and believe me I went over it with the dyno guy to make sure. But yes, those readings ARE accurate. However, track times are what count, and right now she's a high 13 sec wonder
She will be re-dynoed next week and datalogged, I'd be more than happy to post the graphs and even send you the datalogs if you're interested. Maybe it could help you with your own LT1 beastie!
But just to re-iterate, I'm EXTREMELY surprised at her numbers. I was expecting 285 at most. The dyno guy said he's seen a few freaks actually put down more than mine, but mine was definetly a strong engine. Like said before, a corrected dynojet would read lower.
My car is an extremely strong runner, but we backed it up with 4 subsequent runs. I will have a dynograph next week to post up after she gets tuned. And these numbers are high, but not incredibly uncommon. Take a look around LS1tech and you'll see.
He had a bonestock LS1 dyno 307 rwhp dynojet converted, so I'd say his dyno is very accurate.
He had a program that changed the shiftpoints and we flashed the PCM with it. Very, very handy.
But like blu said, all that matters are track times and I'll have those shortly. Should be hitting 12.9s.
Also:
There are plenty of longtube headers/exhaust/rockers/intake/tune M6 LT1 dynos that I've seen that barely match your numbers..
Many people underestimate the LT1 and only compare it to the LS1, you have to realize that these are incredible motors, and each motor responds differently to mods. Also some motors are stronger than others in general, and there are many, MANY things that can affect a dyno. My best run was my first, and the car was nice and cool.
I'm just as surprised with her output as you guys, and believe me I went over it with the dyno guy to make sure. But yes, those readings ARE accurate. However, track times are what count, and right now she's a high 13 sec wonder
She will be re-dynoed next week and datalogged, I'd be more than happy to post the graphs and even send you the datalogs if you're interested. Maybe it could help you with your own LT1 beastie!
But just to re-iterate, I'm EXTREMELY surprised at her numbers. I was expecting 285 at most. The dyno guy said he's seen a few freaks actually put down more than mine, but mine was definetly a strong engine. Like said before, a corrected dynojet would read lower.
Last edited by urbanhunter44; 11-05-2005 at 02:16 PM.
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Originally posted by urbanhunter44
The way the software was set up, it ran identical to the way a dynojet would set in standard calibration, iirc.
My car is an extremely strong runner, but we backed it up with 4 subsequent runs. I will have a dynograph next week to post up after she gets tuned. And these numbers are high, but not incredibly uncommon. Take a look around LS1tech and you'll see.
He had a bonestock LS1 dyno 307 rwhp dynojet converted, so I'd say his dyno is very accurate.
He had a program that changed the shiftpoints and we flashed the PCM with it. Very, very handy.
But like blu said, all that matters are track times and I'll have those shortly. Should be hitting 12.9s.
Also:
Then something is HORRIBLY wrong with their cars. Those mods on an LT1, especially M6, should easily be in the 320-330 range. That's about as high as it gets for bolt-ons. Once again, check LS1tech, I think there was just a thread about bolt-on HP readings.
Many people underestimate the LT1 and only compare it to the LS1, you have to realize that these are incredible motors, and each motor responds differently to mods. Also some motors are stronger than others in general, and there are many, MANY things that can affect a dyno. My best run was my first, and the car was nice and cool.
I'm just as surprised with her output as you guys, and believe me I went over it with the dyno guy to make sure. But yes, those readings ARE accurate. However, track times are what count, and right now she's a high 13 sec wonder
She will be re-dynoed next week and datalogged, I'd be more than happy to post the graphs and even send you the datalogs if you're interested. Maybe it could help you with your own LT1 beastie!
But just to re-iterate, I'm EXTREMELY surprised at her numbers. I was expecting 285 at most. The dyno guy said he's seen a few freaks actually put down more than mine, but mine was definetly a strong engine. Like said before, a corrected dynojet would read lower.
The way the software was set up, it ran identical to the way a dynojet would set in standard calibration, iirc.
My car is an extremely strong runner, but we backed it up with 4 subsequent runs. I will have a dynograph next week to post up after she gets tuned. And these numbers are high, but not incredibly uncommon. Take a look around LS1tech and you'll see.
He had a bonestock LS1 dyno 307 rwhp dynojet converted, so I'd say his dyno is very accurate.
He had a program that changed the shiftpoints and we flashed the PCM with it. Very, very handy.
But like blu said, all that matters are track times and I'll have those shortly. Should be hitting 12.9s.
Also:
Then something is HORRIBLY wrong with their cars. Those mods on an LT1, especially M6, should easily be in the 320-330 range. That's about as high as it gets for bolt-ons. Once again, check LS1tech, I think there was just a thread about bolt-on HP readings.
Many people underestimate the LT1 and only compare it to the LS1, you have to realize that these are incredible motors, and each motor responds differently to mods. Also some motors are stronger than others in general, and there are many, MANY things that can affect a dyno. My best run was my first, and the car was nice and cool.
I'm just as surprised with her output as you guys, and believe me I went over it with the dyno guy to make sure. But yes, those readings ARE accurate. However, track times are what count, and right now she's a high 13 sec wonder
She will be re-dynoed next week and datalogged, I'd be more than happy to post the graphs and even send you the datalogs if you're interested. Maybe it could help you with your own LT1 beastie!
But just to re-iterate, I'm EXTREMELY surprised at her numbers. I was expecting 285 at most. The dyno guy said he's seen a few freaks actually put down more than mine, but mine was definetly a strong engine. Like said before, a corrected dynojet would read lower.
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You typically won't see 300rwhp on an LT1 car unless it has headers. Even guys with the LT4 hot cam and long tubes aonly seem to be putting out roughly 320 to 330 at the wheels. I would like to see dyno numbers on a regular dyno jet or mustang dyno. You have a strong runner but I suspect the values are a bit high. A stock LT1 running through manifolds typically produces 300 at the crank which represents roughly 260 at the wheels for M6 cars and 250 for A4's. Your track times could prove us wrong though
My buds bone stock '02 M6 SS put down 325hp and 338tq on a dynojet which I suspect is also a touch high.
My buds bone stock '02 M6 SS put down 325hp and 338tq on a dynojet which I suspect is also a touch high.
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I'll know more this week as it's being dyno tuned, when I get graphs I'll post them for you guys Honestly I think it's a touch high, however we had runs to back it up so I don't know. Maybe all the ambient conditions were just perfect for the car.
Track times coming the 16th! woooo!
Track times coming the 16th! woooo!
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Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by iroc22
urban, you mention you are running a LT4 knock module. Im curious how you are running it with a OBD1 PCM?
urban, you mention you are running a LT4 knock module. Im curious how you are running it with a OBD1 PCM?
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Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
I don't think it matters. I'm pretty sure it's universal to all the LT1 PCMs except the possible exception of 93s which are chip driven, however I'm not sure.
It actually made a difference in my car. Especially with the loud exhaust and my loud stereo
On a sadder note I didn't have time to get my dyno sheet last week
It actually made a difference in my car. Especially with the loud exhaust and my loud stereo
On a sadder note I didn't have time to get my dyno sheet last week
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: TPI 5.7 L
Transmission: 4L60 w/Vigilante 2,400 Stall
Axle/Gears: Girdled 10 bolt/3.23's
I just bought a '94 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon on eBay. It's got the iron head LT1 in it. Do you guys know what the factory HP and TQ ratings were? Thanks
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: TPI 5.7 L
Transmission: 4L60 w/Vigilante 2,400 Stall
Axle/Gears: Girdled 10 bolt/3.23's
Yeah, I thought it was 260 HP but I couldn't remember the TQ. I can't wait to get it dyno'd!
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Car: 94 Z28
Engine: LT1 w/ headers, catback, CAI, tune
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23s
Pretty sure it's the same 260hp 330 ft-lb LT1 mill from the Impala SSs and 9C1 Caprices and such. Weaker cam than the Fbodies/Vettes and I think less compression (read something about this awhile back, can't recall for sure. IIRC they went w/ thin head gaskets or something to up compression some, but I think it still ended up being less than the Fbody's/Vette's 10.4 or .5 to 1.)
I understand the iron heads actually flow just a little better than the AL LT1s, but that cam and compression loss killed the factory power... If you swap cams on them I think they run into the same kinda issues w/ valve spring guide boss/retainer clearance issues as w/ Vortec heads...
I understand the iron heads actually flow just a little better than the AL LT1s, but that cam and compression loss killed the factory power... If you swap cams on them I think they run into the same kinda issues w/ valve spring guide boss/retainer clearance issues as w/ Vortec heads...
Last edited by Ray87Z; 11-13-2005 at 09:18 PM.
#82
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Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
Correct, they're the 260 hp mill, which is an accurate number, in contrast to the horribly underrated fbody version which puts down slightly over 300 stock.
They have TQ in the same range as the fbody however because they were way more geared toward lower end performance than horsepower to help move those big boats. IIRC they had less CR. Fbody/vette CR is 10.5:1.
The iron heads flow about 220, the aluminum versions flow about 215. The difference is more than made up for in the reduced weight however, imo. And the aluminum versions can be hogged out to about 275 cfm, much more than the iron versions can be.
The best thing for those motors is gears, a converter, a cam swap and some tuning, along with exhaust.
They have TQ in the same range as the fbody however because they were way more geared toward lower end performance than horsepower to help move those big boats. IIRC they had less CR. Fbody/vette CR is 10.5:1.
The iron heads flow about 220, the aluminum versions flow about 215. The difference is more than made up for in the reduced weight however, imo. And the aluminum versions can be hogged out to about 275 cfm, much more than the iron versions can be.
The best thing for those motors is gears, a converter, a cam swap and some tuning, along with exhaust.
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: TPI 5.7 L
Transmission: 4L60 w/Vigilante 2,400 Stall
Axle/Gears: Girdled 10 bolt/3.23's
I found this link to modern LT1 info. Pretty interesting!http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar99928.htm
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Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
yes, that is extremely low. However if it was a bone stock auto on a mustang dyno, I could understand it. On a dynojet it probably puts down right about 260.
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: TPI 5.7 L
Transmission: 4L60 w/Vigilante 2,400 Stall
Axle/Gears: Girdled 10 bolt/3.23's
Originally posted by 89IrocZ350TPI
Sorry to get off topic but I saw some dyno sheets for a 95 Lt1 Z28 and it only made 232 rwh Is it just me or is this very low?
Sorry to get off topic but I saw some dyno sheets for a 95 Lt1 Z28 and it only made 232 rwh Is it just me or is this very low?
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Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
Originally posted by 89IrocZ350TPI
They are rated at 275 at the flywheel. Someone told me that was an under rated "Insurance rating" once. If that makes sense.
They are rated at 275 at the flywheel. Someone told me that was an under rated "Insurance rating" once. If that makes sense.
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Car: ws6
Engine: ls1
Transmission: m6
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Like any car you see a big range of numbers. Fast autos.net rates the 93 Lt1 as a 14.7 second car, Road and Track rated it as a 14.1, Car and Driver 14.2. So I guess high 13's is possible. Same deal with L98 cars being rated as 15.3's when they are capeable of 14.3's all depends on conditions and driver I guess.
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