Black 84 Z

I need some opinions on the aforementioned cylinder head options. I believe I have either a blown head gasket or a cracked head in my Camaro (exhaust gasses in cooling system) and am considering replacing my current vortec heads since they will have to come off anyways. I’ve looked into it and came up with these 4 possibilities although I’m not opposed to other suggestions. Pros and cons of each:

Vortec:
Pros - least expensive option even if I have to replace a head and have the springs reworked for more lift. Everything else fits fine.
Cons - heavier, flows less than the others
Promaxx project X 185:
Pros - much higher flow numbers, made in US, 185cc intake runner smaller than other Aluminum heads.
Cons - most expensive option and have to replace intake and valve covers
AFR enforcer:
Pros - basically just the name, flows more than vortecs but less than the others
Cons - Chinese castings, 195cc intake runner (prefer smaller if possible)
Jegs:
Pros: believe it’s a profiler casting (USA) best flowing along with Promaxx, least expensive aluminum, listing says I can use a vortec manifold that I have and center bolt valve covers.
Cons - 195cc intake runner

Based on this I think I would go with the Jegs heads, particularly if I have to replace a head. Questions are for my combo (355, street demon 625 carb, Performer RPM type manifold, Summit roller cam 219/227 .525/.520, 2600 stall, 700r4, 3.73 rear, street driven only)
1. does the intake runner volume matter that much between 170 to 185 to 195?
2. Will changing the heads really have any noticeable gains over the vortecs?
3. Regarding the Jegs heads, how can they bolt up to either manifold type? Aren’t the intake ports very different?
Any other thoughts are greatly appreciated!!

midias

I have the promaxx 2151 185cc heads. I bought them back when it was patriot heads. I had to replace the springs because the dampers broke. They sent some replacements for free and same thing. I was running 490 lift. I also had to grind one area around the pushrod because the machining was unfinished. I use a vortec intake because of port height.

Other than these issues they are working well, they seal nice to an edelbrock vortec intake and provided a huge power increase over the 882 heads I was running. I ran them for years with an edelbrock 600 and no issues and now I run them with a sniper EFI system no issues. I have used 1.5 and 1.6RR no issues with either.

Black 84 Z

Thank you for the info midias! I was a bit skeptical that the ports would match but that definitely does help. I'm now kinda leaning more towards keeping the Vortecs, even if one has to be replaced. I remembered an article from a while ago (originally in Car Craft I believe) where they tested 8 different SBC heads. Found it at motortrend now https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/cc...head-shootout/ . Skip to what I took from it was the Vortec was a bit behind the aftermarket heads in total peak and average HP but most of that difference was above 5500 RPM. I used their numbers and averaged b/w 3600 (the lowest point listed) and 5400 RPM and the avg difference was less than 10 HP vs any of the other heads and on the lower RPM end was basically identical. I can't see spending $1000-$1500 more to gain less than 10 HP in the range where I'll be driving. Seriously, can you really tell a difference between 350 and 360 HP on the street? I think I'd be better off putting that money into a Sniper or FiTech injection system for better manners and drivability.
I could be way off but that is what I am thinking at this time. Any thoughts for or against would be greatly appreciated!!

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

BIG disadvantage on the OE Vortec heads. They are highly prone to cracking and becoming door stops.

midias

I love my sniper system and the new version 2.0 has addressed many of the complaints with the original. I tuned my carb with a wide band gauge and vacuum gauge and EFI makes more power across all RPM gets better MPG and has way better driving manners. I cant wait to use the new distributor.

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

Always add screw in studs to the Vortecs also. Pressed in studs can be trouble

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

That is one place I have never had an issue with them. Even 0.554 lift with Pac1218s and buzzing them 6,500. Years ago I wanted a set done, machine shop tried to pull them, they were so stubbornly in place, the machinist told me that the studs would likely either break or the casting would break trying to remove them. Left them alone and ran the absolute hades out of that pair of heads. I will say I do prefer screw-in studs and guide plates with hardened pushrods over the self-aligning junk though.

That being said, today I would not spend a penny on a stock 350 Vortec casting. Might as well pull that money out of your pocket and burn it. Those heads will crack, not if but rather a matter of when. Probably 4 out of 5 used Vortec heads will show a crack when magnafluxed. If you get lucky you can drill and pin the crack as a decent repair, but chances are it will crack again with some time and heat cycling. Both heads on my 2003 Sonora (Mexican Tahoe) had to be pinned. Hindsight being 20/20 should have just bought some Etec170s and bolted them on it. Would have run a lot better anyway.

Black 84 Z

Damn, I had heard they were crack prone but that's crazy. I guess I might have to revisit the Jegs heads if that is true and one or both are cracked. Anyone else have the same experience with Vortecs?

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

Throw out any concept of "195cc is too big". This myths still persists despite being disproven by the LS1 for over 20 years. Unless you are looking at extreme RPM, you shouldn't discount any head under 245cc, and should instead focus on the low, mid, and full lift figures.

Black 84 Z

Thanks for the info 89GTA, I know LS heads have larger intake runners but didn't figure that was an apples to apples comparison with a SBC. The 195 vs 185 was more of a preference I suppose, that's why I asked if it made much of a difference. Appreciate it!
I went ahead and ordered the Holley Sniper, Hyperspark dist, and some 1.6 rockers. The plan is to pull the heads and have them checked and see if they are cracked or if its the head gasket. If the are good I'll keep them, if not I'll order the Jegs heads and go with them.
The next question I have is a bit tough as I've researched it and not found any kind of consensus. I would like to keep my current intake manifold (dual plane summit branded for vortec) but have read that dual planes don't always work well with a sniper system. Two options are a single plane (I really don't want to go with this route) or a dual plane with the center divider cut out. After looking at the second option I could go with the Jegs air gap style manifold or possibly use my current intake and have the center section cut out to open it up. What are everyone's thoughts on those possibilities?

midias

I ran a RPM performer dual plane with an open spacer no issues. I am running a RPM air gap with a factory milled divider and a four hole spacer no issues. The new sniper 2.0 system which you should probably get I am fairly sure addressed this issue but it's never caused any problems for me

Black 84 Z

Good to know, thanks again! How tall was the spacer you had on the RPM? I’m worried about hood clearance but would be nice to get a phenolic spacer to keep some heat away from the EFI unit.

Black 84 Z

Well I gathered the Sniper, Hyperspark, and some assorted odds and ends and took it to the shop. I would have loved to do all of it myself but I simply don’t have the space, time, tools, and knowledge to make sure it’s done right. The heads came back in great shape so I’m sticking with the Vortecs, They will give me more than enough performance for what I am looking for realistically. Next step after getting it back is to mess with the timing curve of the hyperspark and get it dialed in. Wish me luck!

skinny z

With all due respect, you can't compare port volumes between a Gen 1 SBC and an LS. LS ports are longer and thus have a greater volume. Valve angles are also different and that has an impact on how the air is controlled.

Further to port volume comparison, check this out.

skinny z

I had over the counter Vortecs purchased in 2002 or so. Put about 75 000 miles on them. Original guides (cast iron is a long liver). One valve job. Ran them bone stock at first then went with screw-in studs and guide plates. The former worked great with the 1st cam @ .454" lift and stock rockers. Stepped up the cam and RPM. Comp bee-hive and small retainers allowed .550" lift with no machining although I cut the guides for positive seals anyway.
I've heard and read the stories of the factory pressed in studs being very stubborn as well.
After a lot of abuse and high temp running (towed a trailer cross country with temps well above 220°) I sold them. They were crack tested then and there with no issues.

The Vortec is a long time favourite with plenty of HP available in stock form. Plenty being well documented 425+. If you've got the intake then I think you're already there.
The open hole spacer at 1" is also proven to add some performance although 1st hand, I haven't tested back to back. Yet.