drabina

I bought a 92 Camaro RS with a 3.1 V6 engine that was sitting for about 10 years. Got it towed home and so far did the following: new battery, new gas tank, new fuel pump, new fuel lines (supply and return), new spark plugs, new ignition wires, new distributor cap and rotor, new ignition coil, new fuel filter and a new air filter. I have also replaced most of the vacuum lines that were rotted out. With all that replaced the car cranks but doesn't start. Doesn't even look like it is trying to start. Items that I have diagnosed/tried already:
1. The pink wire to the ignition coil has 12V.
2. No spark even with the spark plug connected directly to the ignition coil and grounded to the upper intake bolt.
3. Fuel pump is priming and I have fuel pressure and fuel at the Schrader valve behind the intake.
4. Doesn't look like the injectors are firing as the spark plugs are dry and don't smell like gas after countless of tries to start the car.
5. Pickup coil tested fine though it shows some corrosion.
6. Ignition coil tested below the lower acceptable value so I replaced it with a new GM coil.
7. Security light goes off after a couple of seconds with the key in the ignition.
8. No codes when checked with a paper clip.
9. Both keys show 4.75 kOhm (resistor measured with a multimeter) so I don't think it is the VATS issue.
Any ideas? I have a new ICM but without a spark from the ignition coil, I don't think the distributor or ICM is the problem. The car had an alarm that I removed. Starter wire was spliced and I put it back together. All other wires going to doors, hatch, etc were removed and wires were protected with electrical tape.

tom3

I have seen the injectors get stopped up with long term storage. Sometimes you can heat them, one at a time, with a heat gun while pulsing them, and soften up the jelly and start them flowing. Not sure how you're testing for spark, check at a plug to be sure. I'd try a shot of starting fluid and see if you get any response.

8t2 z-chev

Try the new ICM-that is what sends power to the coil to create a spark...If still no spark,the reluctor magnet (spins inside the pickup coil) may have a cracked magnet resulting in a weak signal to the ICM. Also remove and reinstall-one by one-all the fuses to re-establish good electrical contact.

drabina

Thanks for replies. I did pull all the fuses and checked them. Spark was tested using the light with the spark installed and also with a spare spark plug that was connected directly to the ignition coil and grounded to a bolt on the upper intake. No spark in both scenarios. Will try the ICM next. Do you guys know if I need the D1943A (w/o HEI) or D1984A ICM? Rock Auto lists both as compatible with my car but they have two different part numbers.

Tom 400 CFI

This:
Plus this:
equals this:

Another confirmation would be to hook up a scan tool and see if there is RPM shown, while cranking. OR crank and see if the fuel pump runs for a second or so, after cranking, indicating that the ECM did get a crank signal....but no spark and no injector firing typically = no cam/crank signal from the distributor.

drabina

I just went thru the 7 ignition tests from a link posted here on this forum. No spark at the plug, no spark at the coil, 12V at the coil (good), no ignition coil switching signal detected, pickup coil tests at 0.6-0.7V AC (good). So everything points to the ICM. I am assuming that the original may be bad as one of the terminals was on a brink of breaking up when I removed the pickup coil plug. The replacement I got was some inexpensive aftermarket one. I know everybody here says that ICM should be a GM one so I will return the one I bought and get original GM one from Rock Auto. Will update the post once I have the part, install it and try to fire the car up.

drabina

Another update: I got the GM ICM unit, installed it and there is some progress. The car tries to fire but I think the fuel injectors are clogged. The car will run a second or two on a spray of starting fluid. I guess next step is to take the upper intake off and remove the fuel injectors. I am just wondering if I should attempt to clean them by myself or just get a new set.

Tom 400 CFI

Personal preference as to what to do w/the injectors;
If you have zero money, try to fix 'em.
If you have a little money grab some from a salvage yard -preferably from a car that just arrived in the yard.
If you have hundred dollar bills falling out of your pockets, buy new ones.

When I got the Kart, 5 out of 8 injectors were plugged/gummed up from sitting for 5+ years. I went to Pick 'n Pull and got 8 used injectors out of Buick 3800 engines -which were the same PPH as the L98 injectors. Those were $6 each and have been burning rubber for 5 or 6 years now? So, that worked. And it was CHEAP.

drabina

The problem where I live in NJ is that there are no pick and pull yards that are within a reasonable distance. I guess the closest ones are in PA which is a half a tank to a tank of gas away. This plus time and even $6/injector and I would probably be over half of the money that I would spend on a refurbished ones from one of the vendor recommended here. I have some MEK, mineral spirits, etc that I could try to clean them with but if I have to buy additional equipment (i.e. ultrasonic cleaner) then I am probably better off buying replacements. I am just curious if anybody tried to clean them using any household methods and was successful.

Tom 400 CFI

The difficulty for the "home cleaner" is in getting ANYTHING to pass through the injector pintle and orifices. When they're clogged, they're clogged, nothing will go through, and thus, no cleaning will happen. I've had luck tapping, more like, whacking, injectors that are stuck, with a screw driver shaft and getting them to unstick and start working again...then your could clean them by flushing a detergent or solvent through them. But that's far from a sure thing.

It sounds like your best option is the hundred dollar bills one.

drabina

An update: I guess the starting fluid and few seconds of the engine running de-clogged the injectors or did something else. Next day, I tried to start the car and it fired up. Of course there was another issue - a seized up air pump that melted the serpentine belt but that's taken care of now. I had the car running for 15 minutes or so today. Runs good for a car that has been sitting for a decade or more. I may have a small vacuum leak but that's nothing I can't handle. Next step are the brakes and I think I may have an issue with cooling fan not coming on but leaving that for another day.

drabina

One more update: The car runs and drives. Once I replaced the fuel tank, lines and ignition parts I moved to the brakes. Got all four corners replaced with new parts. In the meantime, I had four new tires mounted. Once I put everything together, bled the brakes and adjusted the rear drums, my son and I, we took her for a maiden ride (after 10+ years sitting outside untouched). The car runs fine. Didn't stall, seems to be firing on all cylinders and it does stop though I may need to bleed the brakes again. Even for a 6 cylinder, the car is a blast to drive and everywhere we went yesterday, it was an immediate subject of conversation with people we saw.