Fronzizzle

Hi all,

I have a 1985 IROC-Z with a 383 stroker. I finished the restoration of it back in 2011. From the beginning, I've always felt like I was only getting about 95% of the performance I should have, but I've never been able to figure out why.

I decided to start with the basics, so I swapped out my spark plugs. The wires look okay and only have about 1,000 miles on them, but I think I want to replace them. I have Dyno Don's headers on the car, and the original wires weren't long enough to drop down the back of the engine and come back under the headers, so I replaced them. It's been too long and I don't remember which ones I tried, but I had a similar issue so I ended up making my own wires - I bought ends, boots, and a roll of wire from Summit and cut each wire to the length I wanted. I'm not sure this caused any issues and the car has been running for 12+ years, but I'd rather go with more of a sure-thing for now.

Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on a good set of wires to buy that would work with the Dyno Don's headers. Thanks.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Not my picture, I recommend these to a friend turned out great with the addition of sleeves.

Fronzizzle

Thanks for the fast response. Interesting, he went over the top. Looks cleaner than mine.

blacksunshine'91

iTrader: (10)

I also went over the top. However, one major difference is that I did not squeeze my wires between the A.I.R. tubes and the valve cover. I used the Made-For-You looms from Summit and routed my wires on top of the covers and then over/around the headers for the front two, and then over the A.I.R. tubes on the header, but below the A.I.R. hose (if that makes sense). Here are a couple pics that might help. One of the pics was taken when I was working on the car so the plenum and valve covers are off, but you can see the routing of the wires.

tom3

I finally just bought two sets of stock wires and ran them down the back and under the headers. Much better look than on top of the motor and no problem with heat. Took the left over wires and made a perfect set for my V6 pickup.

Fronzizzle

My car doesn't have the A.I.R. tubes so I don't have those to deal with.

heat seeker

iTrader: (5)

Same here. Bought two sets of Accel wires and went under the headers. Gives it a really clean look.

TPI

Thanks for sharing my '88 L98 GTA Brian! It's been a while since I've logged on to TGO. A testament to how good our TPI/TBI Facebook group really is!

TunedPerformance (Brian) and I, as well as another tuner communicated heavily over the summer to optimize and dial in my low mile L98 over the course
of a few months. Datalogging and sorting out issues along the way. After dozens of datalogs and several wasted memcals, we struggled with BLM/INT,
fuel/spark/timing mapping due to well... mostly IGNITION problems after the installation of the new Delphi injectors, Dyno Don 1 3/4'" ceramic shorties,
and the very welcomed addition of N10 dual cats on the '88. Lean to rich, rich to lean, and hesitation mostly under a load. Idle in and of itself didn't present
apparent misfiring and was able to set factory timing specs at 6* BTDC. I must have taken the top end apart a dozen times, chasing my tail. The ECM and
EST were going bananas trying to compensate.

I thought it was the injectors or a cold 02 sensor for the longest time! Verified all were functioning properly. I was just wasting memcal after memcal!
Unfortunately, TunerProRT or any other datalogging method won't pick up on ignition gremlins. So, you just have to get brilliant on the basics.

Finally, I found #3, 5 and 8 plug wires were ever so slightly burning up and arcing at the plug boot, even going through the 8-inch red insulators!
They were hiding my problem all along. Brian sent me over a link to the Accel Ceramic boots and I gave them a try. At $145.00, pretty steep for a
consumable... One 10-minute full range datalog and 2 memcals later, BLM locks in at 128 across all RPM, superb idle quality with healthy IAC counts.
Idle sits at 650rpm like a stone, EST properly adjusting at factory timing, and TPS @ .58mV. The car absolutely moves, it is tremendous!

I decided to go "up and over" the headers due to the simple fact the factory dipstick and fan control sensor on the passenger side really bottle up
that area with the headers, being I retained all factory emissions equipment. Needed to make very sure the wires were away from the heat as best I
could. After plumbing the rest of the wires and for the petty sake of symmetry, I decided to go up and over and tuck the remaining wires under the AIR
injection tubes for added security.

At first, I didn't like it...




Took a while to grow on me. But, I' m pretty content with it now. After tinkering a bit more, I got it not only good looking, but practical and safe for the
ignition. Not a single issue, or signs of heat anywhere near the plug wires. I could probably shorten the wires up quite a bit... I'm not stressing about it
too much, just counting the days to spring! That is pretty much the story, the other options shown above are fantastic!!! Beautiful builds indeed.

There is no "right way" just as long as you don't burn the wires up!
...Hope this helps people down the road with their projects!

Cheers fellas, and thanks again Brian!

89RS_82Z

iTrader: (2)

I run ceramic boot wires on anything with headers.

If they can survive a 454 in motorhome with 20,000LBS doing 70+ at 3300 RPMs they will hold up to anything.

TransamGTA350

iTrader: (2)

If you want to run under the headers, stock AC Delco wires for an 88-95 Chevy/GMC pickup wires work.

blacksunshine'91

iTrader: (10)

Very nice looking engine. Just a suggestion: If you can find the driver side valve cover from the later TPI engines, it flips the location of the PCV valve and the oil cap. Instead of having that hose running down the valve cover, it is a short hose strait from the manifold to the valve. Also makes oil changes a little easier. Here's a couple pics of my T/A that illustrate my point.

TransamGTA350

iTrader: (2)

That’s a good point with the valve cover, and didn’t realize the difference until recently. Everything has already been powder coated, not worth the cost to have one valve cover coated at this point. But I do like the oil fill in the front.

Vader

And if using OEM wires tucked under the headers, the OEM heat shields are also a nice addition, if you can get them. 12163646