scooter

iTrader: (11)

I have a 5.3 that I took apart to clean. I marked the piston locations and pulled everything apart. I put the pistons and rods, as a unit, in my ultrasonic cleaner to get all the carbon off. I took the rings off and put them back on the same order, but I didn't think about the gap location when I reassembled it.

I think I remember reading here someone said that you don't need to ball hone the walls again even if you re-ring pistons. Should I get new rings and do I need to ball hone the cylinders, or are both those a waste of time?

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

Just replace the rings (gap them). DO NOT hone it.

GD

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Thank you

For my own edification, why not hone it?

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

There's a variety of technical reasons that I've gone on at length about in other threads, but suffice to say that it hasn't been a "good idea" for about 40 years now. Here's one treatise on the subjetc:

http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/dnthone.htm

Here's the deal - if the cylinders are bad enough to actually need a new surface finish, then they need to be bored over-sized. Roughing up the walls will only tear the hell out of the new rings and cause more problems with oil consumption than it will solve.

GD

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I think I have read that. Thanks for the link.

Would I need to do anything different for break in? Or just change the oil after a couple hundred and then send it?

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

We typically use Amsoil SAE 30 break-in oil. It is specifically for seating rings and is non-synthetic. We generally will do a 30 minute - 1 hour run/tune and then dump it, cut the filter, etc. And then another batch of break-in oil for 500 to 1000 miles. Then fill with your preference of synthetic.

GD

scooter

iTrader: (11)

How should I go about the break in period of time?

And what about the ring gap? just run the gap the GM manual calls for?

I actually have a 6.0 in another car that I just got running. I had a 99-00 6.0 that had a cracked block, so I found another 6.0 but with the long crank, so I swapped the reciprocating assembly with the short crank into the other block. I put new rings in it without honing and I checked the ring gap on a couple holes, but that was it. I ran it once so far, but it was on the wrong calibration with smaller injectors. I finally got the 6.0 computer with all the emissions and VATS shut off and fired it up again last night. I put non synthetic cheap **** oil from Walmart or something in it and I planned on changing the oil after a short interval. The top end has a tick, and I am getting a code for random misfire, so now I need to figure that out.
This 5.3 was supposed to go in this car, but I kind of wanted to keep the L33 for myself so I found the 6.0 to put in this car I am selling back to the guy I bought it from originally. He wanted an LSx and a T56 instead of the 454 /TH400. So the 5.3 is just sitting in the engine bay of the other car, out of my way and I can build LS swap harnesses. Since it is going to go into my Formula now I wanted to make sure I wasn't screwing it up, I tear the bottom apart and put the rings in it.

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

Ring gaps will depend on application. Since I'm never absolutely sure I'm not going to send it with some NOS or supercharging in the future I generally turn them all up to 11 on the ring gap. I've never noticed any significant difference in the way the engines run from going to the max ring gap (or a bit beyond) recommended from the ring manufacturer.

For initial break-in..... just run it. Half the time we are in the middle of tuning so they run fairly terrible at first. We get them idling and able to rev up and move on their own to get em over to the dyno bay and then do the oil change before we send them on the dyno. Usually try to do some light throttle tuning on the dyno and run them up and down through the RPM's under load for 10 miles or so on the rollers before we hit them with WOT.

Honestly for break-in of the rings..... my personal feeling is that on the first revolution of the motor they are "breaking in" and on the second they are now "wearing out".......we just go full send!

And this works just fine for all my customers. We have to tune it and it's not like were going to go all driving miss daisy on it for a month before it hits the rollers. No time for that foolishness. And we do plenty of full race cars that get their first run time on the dyno or next to it after they get pushed out of their enclosed trailers.

GD

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Well, I am not a drag racer and nitrous has no real application on the road course it will definitely not be NO2'ed. I probably won't ever supercharge this L33 because it is an interim engine. I want to do a destroked LS7 and spin at least 8k as the "final" engine for the car. But since I have to spend several piles of money on the car overall and it wouldn't start when I bought it, this L33 is going in since I already have it lying around and it will contribute to making the piles of parts around the house smaller.

So it will be a NA car for now, but it may see some time on the road course before I build a new engine. This engine will also be a wet sump, the next engine will be a true dry sump.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

These rings work?
SEALED POWERE937K
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ston+ring,5640

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

Probably but I prefer Hastings if I need domestic rings for stock pistons I'm not swapping.

Sealed Power is an umbrella brand - a name that gets attached to many products from many manufacturers and you really don't know where it came from, etc. At least with Hastings, they are a PISTON RING manufacturer and you know where it came from.

GD

scooter

iTrader: (11)

OK, good to know. Thanks. I like to support American companies where I can

scooter

iTrader: (11)

What about this set? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hsn-2m4978
I will measure my bore and everything, but I am not sure on the ring material. This set says it has a steel top ring, is that any different than the iron ring for seating? And I don't know the difference between the phosphate and the plasma-moly coating

AKPreacher

I'm preforming the GM TSB 10-06-01-008G: for oil consumption on 5.3 engines with active fuel management.
2007 Avalanche, I have to pour 4-5 oz's of GM solvent into each cylinder.

1. Remove the spark plugs and ensure that none of the pistons are at top dead center (TDC).
2. Clean the pistons by putting 118147 ml (4-5 oz) of Upper Engine and Fuel Injector Cleaner, GM P/N 88861803 (in Canada, use 88861804), in each cylinder. Allow the material to soak for at least 2.5-3.0 hours, but no more than three hours and then remove the cleaner. A suggested method of removing the cleaner is cranking the engine over. Make sure to unplug the ignition coils and fuel injector before cranking the engine over. Also make sure that the painted surfaces are covered so no damage is done.

My question is how far past top dead center do I need to be to get 4-5 oz's of solvent in each cylinder at the same time.
Does anyone have a 5.3 engine sitting around with the heads off so there is no guessing?

Thanks in advance,
Jamie

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I am not sure why you're asking an irrelevant question in my thread?
If you post your own thread you might get answers

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

Indeed.

To answer your previous question, which I must have missed, that looks like a good set to me. Plasma-Moly typically seat just fine.

GD

AKPreacher

Sorry, I thought you were talking about oil consumption.
I got an engine using 3 quarts in 3000 miles.
Also thought the TSB from GM might be of interest.
I will move on to somewhere more friendly, Scooter.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

No I put this up because I took the bottom end out and I have never done any internal engine work.

I was not trying to be a jerk or anything, it's just that your question is lost in a thread that isn't relevant to your inquiry, so you probably won't get any replies. As you can see I only got a reply from one person, so what are your hopes to get an answer?
Start a new post and you might find someone that has an answer for you.