Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I just want to make sure this setup looks correct. Its throwing me off because I have never setup an engine that has an aftermarket cam, lifters, rockers, decked block and heads that looks ok to me with the stock pushrod length. If it is off center it is not much and I am not sure a 0.050" change in length wouldn't move it to the opposite side. I have always heard if anything a slightly longer pushrod is prefered to a shorter one. Any input would be appreciated.

Left side of the picture is the intake side and right side the exhaust. Just so that the orientation is known.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

I have heard the opposite. Why? Because if you have to be "off" a little towards one side, it is better to favor the pushrod side because the valve spring pressure is significantly less than at full valve lift. You want the greatest pressure pushing down on the center of the valve stem for maximum valve guide life.

It looks like you have some quality (and expen$ive) components there, so why the cheap stamped valve locks? I would replace those with either machined or forged. One of the best ways to spend $40.


Mild engines can get by just fine with stamped steel locks (far left), but applications with more aggressive spring pressures should invest in more durable machined locks (middle). Full-on race engines can benefit from larger 10-degree locks (right), but these also add weight. https://www.chevydiy.com/small-block...keepers-guide/
And NO, you can't use 10 degree locks with 7 degree retainers.
Everything must match. You can't use Super 7 degree with regular 7 degree either. Super 7 is actually 8 degrees.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

That sweep looks kinda wide to me. Can you try one longer? It may move off center more but it may narrow it up more which matters more imo