Tootie Pang

iTrader: (2)

Got a stock LB9 auto, 89. Autozone has a rebuilt OEM. Just looking for something to work reliably for recreational use.

Duralast has been hit and miss for me on other parts. Some fine, others really cheap.

Anyone have experience with these?

TylerSteez

iTrader: (3)

I put a couple of them in friend's cars. haven't had any issues. I always tell them to get the highest duralast one offered because I don't trust their cheapo stuff, they've let me down in the past as well.

Tootie Pang

iTrader: (2)

Thanks!

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

Man I'd go ahead and get an LT1 starter while you in there if you ever plan to get headers its smaller than the OEM. Bolts right up

naf

iTrader: (7)

the smaller, much lighter weight LT1 starter = worth the extra cost just for the installation ease alone.

NowhereFast

Get a NEW delco LT1 starter for the car. The LT1 starter is half the size and stronger, and remans are generally junk from my experience.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

x3
153 tooth use a LT1 starter

If it has a 168 tooth truck flywheel use a Vortec starter. I tend to find them most plentifully on 4.3s in S10s and M-vans.

My Express van is still on its OEM starter. I tend to grab Vortec starters and the bolts from the junkyard. $25 and they seem to work 99% of the time. Everytime I change an older starter it gets a newer one in its place. I have had a 10.5:1 383 running 16° initial timing and the Vortec starter kicked it right over hot without dragging. In my old 1980 Vette I had a 272 cammed 9.5:1 305 at 20° initial and it turned it right over in the hotest weather. The stock style starter dragged at 10° initial on a hot restart.

Tootie Pang

iTrader: (2)

Thanks all. I couldn't get the new stock size starter passed the exhaust pipe. Plus the starter that was in there was a smaller, gear reduction unit. (Looks like the Summit mini high torque unit). It looked like it had gotten loose or something and come out of adjustment. I reset it and tightened it up and it has been working just fine.

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

If your exhaust is stock , believe it or not it does fit past the pipe , but it takes the dexterity of a contortionist and the alignment of several blue moons for it to actually squeak past the .0001" space that allows it to slip in . One , and only one "just right" position allows it to fit past the pipe and most go the exact route your car's previous owner did , the smaller gear reduction starter that fits with what seems like feet to spare compared to trying to stuff the stock monster into place .

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

I've got a 925.0TBI and it's pretty easy to get it out with the stock exhaust
in place. After removing wires, and taking out the starter bolts, just move it a bit forward and tilt the back of the starter( the end toward the front of the car)
up into the open space above and in front of it. That brings the nose of the starter pointing straight down and will come right out. Reverse steps to install. Works with the stock giant starter as well as others . Just use that open space up there
Henry