Rebuild starter
#1
Rebuild starter
my long tubes seem to just kill starters over the years.
I've got a pile of LT1 starters that either dont extend the gear to grab the flywheel, or dont extend it AND get stuck spinning and require me to disconnect the battery cable.
Does anyone know how difficult it is to rebuild/repair these things? Are tehse LT1 starters any different than old starters when it comes to the solenoid?
I've got a pile of LT1 starters that either dont extend the gear to grab the flywheel, or dont extend it AND get stuck spinning and require me to disconnect the battery cable.
Does anyone know how difficult it is to rebuild/repair these things? Are tehse LT1 starters any different than old starters when it comes to the solenoid?
#2
Re: Rebuild starter
Nevermind!
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=227233
I just found that interesting thread on a B-body board that had this to say:
"GM Delco No. 10455703, 1.4KW, 11-tooth pinion, coil field, 6 rubber O-rings to seal water, 4 ball bearings and 1 roller bearing, light weight (9 LB), serviceable solenoid, very easy and cheap to repair, see the following picture.
GM Delco No. 9000773, 1.4KW, 9-tooth pinion, permanent magnet field, one needle bearing and one ball bearing on the shaft, heavy weight (12 LB), discontinued in Delco, difficult and hi-labor cost to remove OEM solenoid, solenoid is non-serviceable, planetary gear reduction, metal ring gear.
"
The second part looks exactly like all of mine, which would be the F-body starter.
Looks like these are junk! Figured I'd share for posterity.
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=227233
I just found that interesting thread on a B-body board that had this to say:
"GM Delco No. 10455703, 1.4KW, 11-tooth pinion, coil field, 6 rubber O-rings to seal water, 4 ball bearings and 1 roller bearing, light weight (9 LB), serviceable solenoid, very easy and cheap to repair, see the following picture.
GM Delco No. 9000773, 1.4KW, 9-tooth pinion, permanent magnet field, one needle bearing and one ball bearing on the shaft, heavy weight (12 LB), discontinued in Delco, difficult and hi-labor cost to remove OEM solenoid, solenoid is non-serviceable, planetary gear reduction, metal ring gear.
"
The second part looks exactly like all of mine, which would be the F-body starter.
Looks like these are junk! Figured I'd share for posterity.
#3
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Re: Rebuild starter
Your top pic is a typical Nippondenso gear-reduction starter. You can also get em all day long from aftermarket suppliers.
Bottom pic is the typical Stone Age direct-drive Delco POS. I'll never spend another penny of my money on one of those if I can avoid it. Which with about any Chevy motor, they can easily be avoided.
Bottom pic is the typical Stone Age direct-drive Delco POS. I'll never spend another penny of my money on one of those if I can avoid it. Which with about any Chevy motor, they can easily be avoided.
#4
Re: Rebuild starter
Your top pic is a typical Nippondenso gear-reduction starter. You can also get em all day long from aftermarket suppliers.
Bottom pic is the typical Stone Age direct-drive Delco POS. I'll never spend another penny of my money on one of those if I can avoid it. Which with about any Chevy motor, they can easily be avoided.
Bottom pic is the typical Stone Age direct-drive Delco POS. I'll never spend another penny of my money on one of those if I can avoid it. Which with about any Chevy motor, they can easily be avoided.
Either way, the point is to avoid this type of gear reduction starter, since it's not end user serviceable.
Last edited by InfernalVortex; 02-16-2015 at 01:50 AM.
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Re: Rebuild starter
If you look around there are often a few few local shops that will rebuild starters. That would include windings if needed. Sometimes you can get "rebuild kits" that includes new bushings etc. I have 2-3 places locally.
#6
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Re: Rebuild starter
I see...
Hard to gauge the perspective of size from a single pic with nothing else around it. Although I do notice now, that it has a braided motor lead instead of the solid copper strip.
Hard to gauge the perspective of size from a single pic with nothing else around it. Although I do notice now, that it has a braided motor lead instead of the solid copper strip.
#7
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Re: Rebuild starter
This is somewhat confusing....we've got pictures of 4 (possibly 3) different starters.
The starter on the bottom in the last picture posted is the style I use although mine is for the large flexplate (168 tooth) in my 2-pc rear main seal 350. I also had a similar style of starter for the small 153 tooth flexplate on a 1-pc 305.
I'm guessing that it's the bottom starter that's rebuildable? Or do I have backasswards? I have at least one spare that could stand to be serviced.
From an installation and clearance perspective I'd never use anything but the small starter again.
What I found though was that getting the small starter of the large flexplate meant going to an application for a mid 90's pickup truck otherwise you'd end up with the small flexplate starter. Somewhere here I have a bunch of part numbers.
The starter on the bottom in the last picture posted is the style I use although mine is for the large flexplate (168 tooth) in my 2-pc rear main seal 350. I also had a similar style of starter for the small 153 tooth flexplate on a 1-pc 305.
I'm guessing that it's the bottom starter that's rebuildable? Or do I have backasswards? I have at least one spare that could stand to be serviced.
From an installation and clearance perspective I'd never use anything but the small starter again.
What I found though was that getting the small starter of the large flexplate meant going to an application for a mid 90's pickup truck otherwise you'd end up with the small flexplate starter. Somewhere here I have a bunch of part numbers.
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#8
Re: Rebuild starter
This is somewhat confusing....we've got pictures of 4 (possibly 3) different starters.
The starter on the bottom in the last picture posted is the style I use although mine is for the large flexplate (168 tooth) in my 2-pc rear main seal 350. I also had a similar style of starter for the small 153 tooth flexplate on a 1-pc 305.
I'm guessing that it's the bottom starter that's rebuildable? Or do I have backasswards? I have at least one spare that could stand to be serviced.
From an installation and clearance perspective I'd never use anything but the small starter again.
What I found though was that getting the small starter of the large flexplate meant going to an application for a mid 90's pickup truck otherwise you'd end up with the small flexplate starter. Somewhere here I have a bunch of part numbers.
The starter on the bottom in the last picture posted is the style I use although mine is for the large flexplate (168 tooth) in my 2-pc rear main seal 350. I also had a similar style of starter for the small 153 tooth flexplate on a 1-pc 305.
I'm guessing that it's the bottom starter that's rebuildable? Or do I have backasswards? I have at least one spare that could stand to be serviced.
From an installation and clearance perspective I'd never use anything but the small starter again.
What I found though was that getting the small starter of the large flexplate meant going to an application for a mid 90's pickup truck otherwise you'd end up with the small flexplate starter. Somewhere here I have a bunch of part numbers.
This one is apparently NOT easily rebuildable:
#9
Supreme Member
Re: Rebuild starter
This starter looks very much like the "mini" starter I picked up from the local parts house. Small and light. It would be a drag if I couldn't rebuild it. The gear is chewed up because of a problem I had with alignment when I swapped short blocks. You can see it in the attached pictures but it's difficult to compare.
EDIT: Although looking at them more closely, I can see how it the picture you've posted the bolts that run the length of the armature are internal whereas mine are external. Perhaps there's hope for a rebuild yet...
#10
Re: Rebuild starter
This starter looks very much like the "mini" starter I picked up from the local parts house. Small and light. It would be a drag if I couldn't rebuild it. The gear is chewed up because of a problem I had with alignment when I swapped short blocks. You can see it in the attached pictures but it's difficult to compare.
EDIT: Although looking at them more closely, I can see how it the picture you've posted the bolts that run the length of the armature are internal whereas mine are external. Perhaps there's hope for a rebuild yet...
Thats interesting... please, by all means, share your experience with it. The sites I was looking at didnt really explain what the issue was. They just said it was "hard"... I think mine have the same bolts running the length of the motor...
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