FireBirdFever27

Hello everybody! I am finally finishing up my 383 build for my 86 t/a! I bought the engine as a low-mile runner and tore it down to the short block as the original builder ran short on funds and finished it with 882 heads, small cam and non roller valve-train. Short block is going to the local machine shop/engine guy to be zero-decked, honed and re-assembled with new rings and bearings etc.


Build is currently as follows:
4-bolt main 350 .030
Speed Pro Hypereutectic (H895CP) Pistons
Pink Rods
Eagle Crank
Melling m55 Oil Pump
Older Brodix Diamond aluminum heads, 2.05/1.60 64cc (getting cc'd to verify) double springs
Crower steel full roller rockers, staggered 1.5/1.6 ratio
ARP Rocker Studs
Gear Drive (may swap for double roller chain)
Edelbrock Air-Gap Intake
Edelbrock 750cfm (may swap for holley 750 dp)
Will be running hyd. roller cam/lifters
MSD billet dist, coil/6al box, taylor wires
Shorty Headers to full 3" exhaust


Behind it will be a T5 transmission, 373 gears and 275 tires.


Should I run ARP head studs, or will ARP head bolts be sufficient?
Any opinions on hyd. roller cam size for my setup?
Will I need to run a deeper/bigger oil pan?
Any reason I should run stud girdles even though its not a high rpm race car?


I appreciate any help/input from experienced builders, this is my first real build other than a couple mild sbc (mostly bolt ons) and diesel trucks! I am sure I will have lots more questions as the build goes on... thanks!

DeltaElite121

Don't skimp on hardware; if you get cheap hardware you'll probably have to watch your valve lash more frequently. Stud girdle is not needed provided you get good studs and poly locks for the rocker arms.

Oil pan is largely overlooked by most builds and it's a very important part. I would definitely get one and make sure it has a windage tray and all the typical aftermarket offerings. A lot of pans are also notched to help with stroker clearanced setups as well. Mine is clearanced for a 3.875 crank , for reference. You will gain roughly 3.5% (more in serious setups) in horsepower with a good pan as well if that makes much of a difference to you.

Cam size would be dependent on what you're wanting. I'd call bullet racing and talk with them; they're great people to deal with.

FireBirdFever27

Great thanks for the tips.. I will be running ARP rocker studs and poly locks, and I think i'll just go with the ARP head studs, I fell they will be safer especially with aluminum heads.. I'm also running arp hardware on all accessories and covers etc. Any recommendation on a good priced pan? There is some used ones locally for sale, but most are circle-track pans...

DeltaElite121

My Stefs pan is great. The owner of Stefs has done lots of the designs for most of the oil pan companies and many of the new OEM vehicles as well. Really great quality and made here by hand in the USA. I want to say I paid $360 or so? It also comes with a real nice resealable gasket.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Bolts are fine but i do like head studs

Dont need girdle unless its real high rpm but even then with good fat pushrod and a 7/16 stud rocker, should have plenty of stability.

Cam as said depends on what you want. Heads seem big enough to support some rpm. I like around 230 deg at .050" cams in my 383's. Most of the time that makes power to 6200-6500 if heads and intake are good. Solid power curve

FireBirdFever27

Forgot to mention, my studs/rockers are 7/16". As far as cam, I'd like as big as possible, while keeping it street-able. It's my summer cruiser, but I need some power for Sunday track fun. Something lumpy but won't stall at stop lights... Doesn't narrow it down very much on the spec side, but I'm pretty new when it comes to cam specs and what I need for my engine. I'm also going to get my guy to port match (and polish) my intake to my heads.

DeltaElite121

You'll want to get a vacuum pump and reserve canister if you do that because you'll kill your vacuum pressure with a bigger cam in some cases. Also keep in mind bigger is not always better. Nothing worse than a car that sounds awesome and can't even move out of its own way.

FireBirdFever27

True. Here in Ontario I get a ticket for not having a vacuum canister anyways, I just leave it un and unhooked however if I can have it all hooked up and benefiting me its a win win. What cam would you recommend for me? I would like to stick with a comp hydraulic roller, and will be running the car on 91 octane pump gas aswell.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Dont know much about them heads. You have any specs? Port size and flow?

Biggest i'd run if those heads are around 200 cc would be something in the 236 deg range on a 110 lsa and .550-.575 ish lift

FireBirdFever27

I will know the exact specs of the heads in about a week when they come back from being bench tested and cc'd, that should help some forsure..


On another note, does anyone know anything about these heads.. They are older forsure, and I believe they were Diamond racing back in the day... They have a -8STD and a -P stamped on them. Other than the specs I will find out from the machine shop, does anyone know any history on these older Brodix heads?

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

ARP head bolts are fine.. Studs can be a prob on a street car. If you need to pull the heads at some time, you have to lift head up high enough to clear the studs. Hard to do that in a car with a wiper motor, head core, low windshield cowl, etc

Stud gridle not needed unless you will be spinning engine past 7000 rpm alot. 7/16" rocker studs and ARP rocker poly locks will be fine.

You do not have to have a deeper oil pan, but there is horsepower locked away and lost in the oiling system. By using a well though out oil control system with larger pan, with trap door baffling, windage screen, rear main oil baffle, you can pick up 20-35 HP.

On to your heads... Do they have " Diamond" cast into the rocker area?

They are Brodix -8 heads, they still make those today.

If it does have "Diamond" cast in it, then it's a set of -8 heads that brodix made for Diamond racing engines and DRE modded, ported, etc. They use to do that 10-15 years ago. Last I heard DRE sold out, and the buyer now just makes Diamond racing pistons.

Going from the -8std it's a 194cc intake runner, 2.08"/.160" valve,, 67cc chamber, flows 240/151 @ .500" lift