luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Note: Please don't post, "don't do it", "get a 350", etc...
& I promise I won't try to convince you to do things to YOUR car that I would like... (tub it, get DUB's and paint it hot pink!)

Ok... I've been researching and basically, your stock 305/350 crank stokes (or moves your piston rod) 3.48 inches...
Increase Stroke (with stroker crank) from 3.48 to 3.75 and now your 305 turns into 334 and 350 to 383...

While researching 334 stroker kits... I ran across 2 setups...

1. Powerhouse Kit:
KB 186 Pistons - 5.7 Rod and 1.433 Compression Height, 10cc dished
Rod & Piston height = 7.133

2. Others Data:
KB 145 Pistons - 5.565 Rod and 1.56 Compression Height, 12cc dished.
Rod and Piston height = 7.125

I've read that option 1 will need to grind / clear the block. I read that it's not needed with option 2.... either way, no big deal.

I'm leaning towards option 2...

I have TF 175 23 aluminum heads with 56cc chambers (58 is stock on iron 305). With Option 1, compression is 10.1 (at 58cc's)

Option 2 is not quite as tall and piston has a 2cc bigger dish... so it would lower my compression slightly...

Planning on high light XFI Cam...

Anything I'm missing?
Mechanical Advantage??

Thanks,

Rafael

hectre13

iTrader: (4)

I was kinda wondering about this myself! subscribing so I can get updates as you go.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Not going to flame since I too have built a Nasty little 312 in the past. My personal opinon is that $150 buys the best HP/TQ per dollar possible in the form of a standard bore 4.00" bore 350 block. However that being said you would need alot of machine work to get the engine up and running with either your 305 build or a stock used 350 block.

Value per dollar it is hard to beat this

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100-30

There are far more rotating assembly/piston combinations available for a 4.030" bore and your TF heads will be less shrouded. With the 56cc chamber you could run a flattop piston and have 10.8:1 compression on pump gas fairly easily. With aluminum heads it would be similar to running a 9.8:1 cast iron head engine.

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Note: Please don't post, "don't do it", "get a 350", etc...
& I promise I won't try to convince you to do things to YOUR car that I would like... (tub it, get DUB's and paint it hot pink!)

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Now that the 383 is out of my system.....

Assuming the block is close to the factory intended 9.025" deck height.

#1 would be .007" in the hole.

#2 would be .025" in the hole.

It would be hard to get a decent head gasket on #2 and maintain a decent quench.

I would get accurate measurements for both rotating assemblys and get the block zero decked. Ideal quench is .038-.043". I would recomeend running a .038-.043" compressed head gasket and a zero deck. You want the gasket thickness to counteract the aluminum heads expansion and contraction as it heats and cools unevenly compared to the cast iron block.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Suit yourself, I have done both engines and the 305 based build is a waste compared to the 350 based build.

A 400 HP 383 will blow the doors off a 400 HP 334!!! With cubes comes more torque. More torque = More fun!

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Thank you for that useful information...

Rafael

tyeo098

1) You may have to grind the block with either option, as you're increasing the stroke beyond what the block was designed for.

2) Strokers put down large HP numbers, but in it comes dangerous torque as well. If your butt end isnt ready to handle the torque, you'll burn up your tranny, rear end, etc.

Theres a reason people use 10-bolts and ford 9"s

I'm all for the 'cuz its neat' factor. I build lots of things on the same principle.
Lots of people ask me why I turn 223 Remington brass into 7.62x25 brass when I could just go out and BUY it...
Homie dont work like that!

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

the guy asked for help with a stroked 305 build...

a longer rod is going to reduce cylinder wall loads, but forces your wrist pin to be closer to your piston crown and makes the rings package more compact (not as good)

on a N/A 305, I would go with a longer rod and not be concerned with the slightly more compact piston. Run good gas and take advantage of the slight compression bump also

You could also get a 6" rod if you can find 305 pistons to fit with the stroker crank and 6" rods. That would be a better option than either of the ones you listed IMO. The only difference between a 383 and 334 "stroker kit" is the piston diameter so researching 383 kits and info will help you learn more if you have only been looking at 334 stuff since there are way more 383s that 334s.

As far as clearance goes, the longer rod should require less clearance-ing (that's a general statement but pretty true in general). I doubt much will change between the two in your case...

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I try to give as much useful information as possible. That being said I am definately not trying to flame, just point out you could get a much better engine for not much more money. Sure you can hurt the driveline with the torque of a 383, but you can trade some of that torque for horsepower with the right parts selection.

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Alston & Spohn SFC's, Spohn Torque Arm, Bilstein Sturts & Shocks, Founders LCA's & Panhard bar, Jet Hot Hooker 2055's, 3" cat back, tons of other things....
McCleod 500 hp Clutch, Astro A5 5 Speed, rebuilt 10 bolt with 28 Spline axles, Eaton Trutrac, Richomnd 3.42 gears, Tubes Welded, LPW Cover / Brake Kit and solid spacer.... Street tires...

I have a BBS turbo header too... The car is already fun... I would like to see what I could squeeze out of it with the TF heads, Ported Plenum, AS&M runners, & ported Edelbrock TPI base... I'm probably gonna sell the turbo header soon...

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Just stay stockish lower end for the time being. If you need to rebuild the 305, bore it ".030" and buy a cheap set of speedpro hyper flattop pistons with a 1.56" compression height, zero deck the block and balance the rotating assembly. It would handle a fair amount of abuse and perk up the 305 quite well.

Buy you a 350 block and setup a 6" rod 355. When the 305 explodes, with the addition of a HSR it would be a fun upgrade. I have seen cammed/head LT1s make 380-400 RWHP.

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

I'm not 100% sure I'm going the 334 route... I may go BBS turbo route, then I would just get keep it at 305 (bored .030) with lower compression....

But at what point is too much? I don't want huge tires or to tub my car... Its for fun on the street... not planning on drag racing, I may go for fun, but it's not an all out build...

There are some parts I still need that will work either route... a high lift XFI cam with little over lap (which will work great with turbo), lifters, etc... I got an EBL P4 alreay too, so tuning is not a problem....

The car only has the ported plenum now... I have the other parts, runners, base, heads, etc... but not on the car...

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Your transmission/clutch are fine, but at some point I would start worrying about the 7.5", even if it is built up. On modest street tires it will likely live a decent life. The moment you put drag radials/slicks onto it, it is doomed.

400-450 HP is a very capable street car in a 3rd gen, knowing how much ligher they are than the newer stuff.

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

I'm never putting drag radial's or slicks on it....

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I once thought the same thing. Then a bug bit me. Got that thing down to 8.50s in the 1/8 or roughly 13.30 in the 1/4. Ran 13.59 @ 98.40 on 20" street tires. I was going for more, but went through 2 sets of differential gears and 5 transmissions in 70K.

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

TunePort 335 with his stroker 334 and pretty much stock cam / heads & intake went 13.49 in the quarter...

Rafael

big hammer

do it, but bore it out as much as you can to unshroud the valves.

DeltaElite121

All that work and you're going to stick with grocery getter tires? Just because they are a sticky tire doesn't mean they're just meant for the strip. Mickey Thompson makes awesome ET Streets.

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

255 grocery getters. .. Currently Cobras, next round MT Street tires, not ETs...

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Just turbo it lol thats what i am doing. Thought about stroking it tho or just upgrade rods and pistons

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Turbo would be more fun... and $$$ and time...

Luckily, I busted my *** a few years ago and paid off all my debt, so I'm not rich, but can spend a bit more than before...

The 150k mile engine in the car now is great fun, doesn't leak, etc... It's not a daily driver, but I also need to save up for paint... so that it is done and I can take it as a daily driver when I want to...

As mentioned, the cam, lifters, and a few other things will work with either 334 or Turbo 305, about $900 worth of stuff... I'll keep gathering parts and decide down the road... I remember being young and seeing that ATI Procharger kit and drooling... I finally got one... but it was awhile back and car was not as fixed up as today.... so I sold it But after seeing Turbo TPI's 570 RWHP 5.7, I think I like turbo more than Procharger So I got a BBS header, crossover and driver's shorty from them...

I do appreciate everyone's help and advice...

Rafael

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Just get an on3 T70 or 76 for 350$ lol they been working well

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Don't take this the wrong way, as I am all for building a 305, but if your not planning on running a very sticky tire, then all that work and preparation seems meaningless. The amount of increased horsepower to be made by adding more cubes, but with less cfm to satisfy a specific cubic inch displacement, will be minuscule. Your essentially creating a mini torque monster, which just means it'll be starving for air up top and make most of its' usable power down low, and this is where your tire situation comes into play. Other than doing massive burnouts, the setup will get you nowhere in a hurry if your not grabbing hard off the line. In my opinion, don't stroke it with that much compression. Spin the engine higher if you want more power and get a higher stall, so think of it as de-stroking your 335 to 305. If you stroke it, keep compression down to a more specific area in which you can utilize 2.02" valves, while massaging the area around the valve seat to reduce any possible shrouding due to the anemic bore. My 305 is running 1.84" valves with big cam and ported heads. If I stroked it to 335, torque will increase yes, but horsepower will suffer up top, and when I say suffer, I just mean it will not be maximized, although the pressurized air from the turbo does make up for it.

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Car is a 5 speed, not an automatic. The Trick Flow heads have 1.94 intake valves. They flow about 245 CFM. that's why I'm debating the stroker or turbo choice, how much power do I really want? Staying with TPI, and if you upgrade the intake, you gain torque and horsepower and everyone gains higher revving motor also. As for turbo, I have the BBS turbo header that allows me to keep the AC, so it runs a smaller turbo. T04 60 and .96.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Even with the 5-speed, just keep your RPM's up, that is why I stated higher stall, it's essentially the same scenario. Remember that the 305 was already stroked from the factory, and I wouldn't advise stroking it more because it is just more unneeded stress on a rolling assembly with an anemic bore. I am running TPI myself, and even after siamesing it, it is just too restrictive for the turbo. What you need to understand is that if you already have a BBS header which allows a 60-1 turbo, then why would you want to open the 305 up in terms of increased airflow? That would be like putting a D1SC on an engine that was built for an F1X, your boost pressure won't be there the way it should. There are V6's out there that are running in the sevens, and trapping at 180 with a smaller valve than a 1.84, so if you go the turbo route, don't be so concerned about naturally aspirated cfm, just need no obstructions. If a turbo is designed to produce x amount of flow at a given RPM and boost pressure, but your focusing and building your engine to produce x amount of flow at that same RPM naturally aspirated, in turn escalating your torque and horsepower higher on its' own, then how exactly will the turbo benefit you?

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

So you're trying to convince me to do neither?
Not doing both... For the car setup, turbo may be too much... why I was looking at stroked 334 option

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Not at all, just saying that if your limited to a 60-1 turbo because of the header setup, then don't build the 305 in an overkill cfm fashion otherwise it defeats the purpose of putting that particular turbo on it if that's the biggest turbo your limited in getting. Give the turbo room to grow in the RPM with the engine and let it do it's job, otherwise your just making additional heat with it if the engine can make the power on its' own. A 60-1 turbo would be great with stock ported heads. The more the engine can breath naturally aspirated, the bigger the turbo you will need to be to make it efficient, otherwise your just making excessive heat. Alky would help, but nut necessary for our boost levels...

Go with the 334 option, that sounds like a great idea, I wasn't trying to talk you out of it. I brought up turbo because that is where the topic seemed to be going. The only advice I gave about the stroker concept up top, is if it were me, I would keep static compression in the stock range, no need to be any higher than that if your not planning on putting on the right tires and go racing, so no need to stress the engine any more than you need to. In the end, there is no replacement for cubic inches when running naturally aspirated, but those cubes need good cylinder head flow to feed it. A careful balance of cylinder head flow with displacement is what's needed. When running a turbo though, any ported head will do, any head...

big hammer

should really decide on a cam before you shoot for a specific static compression ratio.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

The bbs mani holds any t4 frame its just which ones will clear ac and hood i believe. Is the 60-1 the largest that will fit? Most t4 compressor covers are similar in size i would think a 70 mm will fit in there

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Some info... as stated, I'm not doing both...

Compression.... with the 334 kit, due to limited choice of pistons and stroke, with a 10 or 12cc dished piston, compression will be 10.1 with 58 cc head (my Trick Flows are 56cc)

Cam: XFI260... high lift (heads support .6) "superb low and mid range", 1200 - 5200 rpm... little over lap, good for happy TPI idle and also for boost (if you want it)... I didn't want a cam to fight the TPI system (try and get more power higher RPM), I wanted one to compliment the low / mid power...

Turbo.... BBS says 60 .96 because it's close... TurboTPI ran a 61 1 (we are talking millimeters, right)? With 13 lbs. of boost, he got 570 RWHP from his 5.7 with ported aluminum l98 heads...

I'd be happy with 500 RWP...

Pics of header setup I have... (BBS Pics)

Drac0nic

Little late to this but just a quick point. They're a bit more expensive, but if you're planning on doing a 335 why not do cap screw style rods? That should eliminate a great deal of the clearance work required to do this.

Also, if you're not concerned about originality consider punching out the block 60. These aren't exactly rare or expensive blocks, it may even behoove you to grab another and build it up. I got my last one for something like $50.

Besides that, my other piece of advice is be conscious of what you're doing to maintain CR. You will have little things here and there (like the head gasket bore being bigger) that will slowly but surely drop your compression. There aren't a lot of small bore 305 HGs out there it seems short of doing something like Cometics. I would want to be sure I could get the thickness and the bore size I wanted before I machined in order to make sure I could get an optimal CR.

FRMULA88

Asking 15+ year old parts to perform at 2 - 2.5 times their intended power application is quite frankly a recipe for disaster.

cylinder heads and cams have come a long way since then.

That being said the logical solution is to simply scrap your 150,000 mile engine and build the biggest small block you can afford.

Since most of the rotating parts will cost the same, a 350 block is simply a better alternative because you get a bigger small block for the
same or even slightly less cost of trying to build a big 305.

.030 over 305 pistons are not a stock item, special order and cost more.
.030 over 350 pistons are a stock item. (cast, hyper, or forged)

A create engine would be a perfect solution for your power level.

Put another way how many crate 305 or 305 stroker motors do you see for sale? There is a reason for that.

Those 305 kits you see are for people competing in specific racing class that
limits engine displacement. otherwise their is no reason to do it other than spending more money to be slower...

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Can someone loan me a dead horse ?

I was not planning on throwing anything on the 150k mile short block...

"Spend more to be slower"... ???
The 334 would be faster than a 305...
But slower than a 350...
But a 400 would be faster than a 350...
But slower than a 450... etc...

So I buy a 450 and I have 600 RWHP...

What good will that be with 255 street tires? I'm not buying slicks... I'm not drag racing...

I've not decided which route I'm going...

If TunedPort335 can squeeze 13.4 out of his 334 and stock heads, intake, etc... I could probably squeeze more with ported intake, Trick Flow 175cc heads, XFI cam, etc... And I'd be happy with that... I'm never gonna be the fastest... and I'm not trying for that...

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Those 175 heads will feed a 350 well enough to go 11's if you know what you are doing...

They will be fine on a 334. You can buy a 255 drag radial and get good life on the street if you want else no big deal. It will still be fun.

If boost is out of the question, i'd do a scat rod/crank type 334 for not all that much money and be happy with decent power. No problem getting enough power to turn a high 12 in a 3300-3400 lb car.

If you stay stock cube 305, you'll want to turn 6500 to really take use of those heads. Good 224 deg cam

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

The heads have 1.94 & 1.5 valves... you can fit bigger ones on a 350...
Would you use them with the smaller valves on a 350?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

No leave them as is. 1.94 positioned right in the bore is good size for a 305. I thought the tfs 175 small bore heads moved intake valve over some. I could be wrong. Regardless you can really do work with them. They can handle pretty big intake lift before hitting cylinder wall. Anything bigger like a 2.02" wont clear the bore wall well and will hit under .450's lift.

There was a thread showing this comparison on a 305 somewhere.

Good rule if thumb is .5-.51x bore for intake valve size. .52 also can work for some applications turning more rpm. 1.94 is about as big as you'll ever need on a 305

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

I wasn't going to change them for the 305...
I was asking about a 350...
All the heads I see for the 350 have 2.02 valves, etc...
I got a great deal on these heads.... they are optimized for a 305...

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

My appologies, misread....

No i'd leave them as is for a 350 unless you are trying for big power like 400 whp+, then i'd sell and buy a 195-200 head with a 2.05

big hammer

don't worry dude. i get it. it's not about being the fastest.

big hammer

i'll take the tfs 175's if you want to upgrade.

FRMULA88

It's not about being the fastest... but you can polish a turd all day long and still have a turd..

If you understand the basic laws of mechanics ( I won't even get into bore & valve size) you will see this is simply being foolish. The 350 will make the same power you want, and simply make more than an equally prepared 305.

More is more.. for the same or less money. This has nothing to do with being the fastest but all to do with getting the most for you hard earned money.

When you begin to understand this you will "see the light"

Another thing to consider : why is the LS engine based on the GEN 1 SBC 4.00 bore (350) and NOT the 3.875 of the 305?

things to ponder... things to ponder... the stubbornness of youthful inexperience be damned !

big hammer

it really is something to ponder since the ls1, ls6, 5.3 and 4.8 all have a smaller than 4" bore.

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

More 305 < 350 platitudes...

Uh, 350's are like (______-fill in a body part), everyone's got one...

How about this one... a 350 strolls / strokes into a bar / bore....

Why stop at a 350? 383, 400, 427, 454... hell, jet engine ?!?!?!
Soon we'll have transporters.... you start here and get de molecufied and re molecufied some where else... Bam! I'm faster!

Glad GM threw those TTA's (fastest production thirdgen) and GNX's away... those turds have 2 less cylinders than a 305....

Oh... I must of not read the first paragraph of this thread. That's not what this thread was about... please start another thread if you want to start that discussion...

Please note sarcasm... I'm not mad at any 350 lover's / 305 haters....

FRMULA88

I offer this up for your reference..

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...d/viewall.html

Yes, you can build a modest 305 I am not arguing that. IF the engine is in good shape and you can afford 1,600$ in parts.. (1999 money so adjust for inflation)

However in the long run when you want more power... you have the privilege of starting over...

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Link doesn't work...

FRMULA88

I scanned this from the January 2011 Car Craft magazine and thought it might help with this often asked question. Seems many of the younger guys are willing to attempt a build-up on their own but are stuck with a 305.

Here's the mag's technical editor Jeff Smith's response to this question from a reader in the "What's Your Problem" section..............

THE 305 CONTROVERSY, REVISITED—AGAIN

Ed Shagman; Corona, CA: This appears true of your magazine as well as your competition: A reader asks about building his 305 small-block, and the answer is to dump the 305 and start with a 350. This is an ongoing path you all seem to take. Why not change course and build a stout 305 new or a junkyard dog to prove it's possible? Also, why is it that Ford fans routinely build 281-inch two-valve engines with tiny 3.5inch bores and get 400 hp or more, and the same magazines joke about the Chevy's 3.75-inch bore? i think a 305 can be built to 450 hp and more, so maybe you should come up with an engine builder's competition.

Jeff Smith: It seems we have to deal with this question about once a year.

Some people just want to build a 305—and that's fine. But let's go over why that's not the best idea if you're building an engine to make good power. You brought up bore size, Ed, so let's start there. The reason the Ford guys build the 281-inch mod motors with their tiny 3.5-inch bores is because that's all they have to work with within the engines available for the late-model Mustangs. Even the 5.4L truck engine only has a 3.5-inch bore, and the new 5.0L is only slightly larger at 3.029 inches. The mod engine was designed with a 3.93-inch bore spacing, so a 4.00-inch bore is physically impossible. But if the bore spacing were wider, you can bet your last lug nut that any engine builder would be using a 4.00-inch bore. When you're forced to work with an engine with a tiny bore, you make the best of what you have.
One reason tiny engines like the Ford mod make good power (besides three and four valves per cylinder) is because the builders are willing to spin those overhead cam engines to the moon. The classic equation you should have tattooed on your forearm is Horsepower =TorquexRPM/5,252. Using this equation, if you make 30O Ib-ft at 4.000 rpm, the engine only makes 228 hp. Take that same 300 Ib-ft and apply it at 7,500 rpm and the number jumps to 428 hp. That's great if you like to spin the engine that high. This also means you should shift at closer to 8,000 rpm to maximize acceleration. All that rpm is abusive on parts— much more so than shifting at 6.000 rpm. But even beyond that, a tiny, 281ci, normally aspirated engine that makes 420 hp at 7,500 rpm would make a miserable street engine because it would deliver minimal torque below 5,000 rpm. Then you have to put a deep gear in the car to make it accelerate.

Let's stick with this displacement idea for a moment longer. Let's use a typical 350ci small-block that makes 1.1 Ib-ft per cubic inch. Multiply 350ci x 1.1 = 385 Ib-ft. which is fairly typical of any mild small-block. GU s 353 H.O. crate engine is rated at 380 Ib-ft at 3,800 rpm and 330 hp at 5,000 rpm. While enthusiasts are drawn to the horsepower numbers.
I prefer to look at torque and horsepower because torque is what accelerates the car. A larger-displacement engine will always make more torque as a result of its size. (ME TOO)That's how engine designers made power back in the '20s—with giant engines that ran slowly. They made monster torque—just no horsepower.

Now let's take that 305ci engine and multiply 305 x 1.1 = 335.5 Ib-ft of max torque. We're down roughly 50 Ib-ft.and that's just at torque peak. So a 305 up against a 350 (even at the same horsepower) will always lose to the larger engine because the 350 will make more torque.

I completely agree that a 305 can be built to make 450 hp. That's not too difficult. The engine is limited to smaller heads with 1.94-inch valves because larger 2.02-inch valves won't clear the cylinder wall. (this is why you don't put 350 heads on 305)You're also going to give up roughly 10 cfm or more of flow because the small bore shrouds the valves and reduces flow. You can make 450 hp, but this will require a much-longer-duration camshaft to make torque at higher engine speeds—around 6,500 rpm. A longer-duration camshaft merely moves the torque peak higher in the rpm curve. To make 450 hp at 6,500, this engine has to make 364 Ib-ft at that engine speed. Most street engines create a span of 1,500 rpm between peak torque and peak horsepower, which puts peak torque at 5,000 rpm. That means that at 4,000 rpm, the engine is barely making 320 Ib-ft. Compare that with the mild 350 H.O. engine that makes 380 Ib-ft at 3,750 rpm—or roughly 60 Ib-ft more torque at this lower engine speed. That additional torque is there every time you touch the throttle, making the larger engine much more fun to drive.

We could also talk about how the 350ci engine parts are substantially cheaper because of the insane volume those engines enjoy. Compare replacement piston prices between a 350 and 305. The 305 piston is smaller, so it requires less aluminum, yet the 350 pistons are less expensive. That's because the 350 pistons are sold at ridiculously high volumes, which means the price comes down.

So what have we learned? Can you build a 305 to make 450 street horsepower? The answer is yes. Will it run as quickly in the quarter-mile in the same car as a 450hp, 350ci engine? No, because the 350 will make more torque that will help acceleration. So the bottom line is the 305 will cost more to build and won't make as much torque as a 350. Now I'll agree that if you live on a desert island and all you have is a 305 to build, go for it. But given a choice, I'll always go for more displacement to make more overall
power. I understand that engine-building decisions are often based on what you have lying around. All I'm saying is that you can find Chevy small-block engines on almost every street corner in America, so unless you enjoy spending more to make less power, the answer seems obvious.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

The whole torque concept is misleading.

Small motor may not make low rpm torque say 2000-3000 rpm. It starts making its torque in the 4000-6000 range. Small motor makes its hp higher because simple physics, so say peaks in the 6500-7500 range.
A similar 350 may make more torque in the 2000-3000 rpm but less in the 4000-6000 range. May make peak hp in the 5500-6000 range.

Only thing you do differently is run alot more gear in the small motor car to multiply the trq. More stall speed if auto.

There are alot of 4 cyl cars with 4.00-4.50 type final drive gears while most v8's are 2.73-3.42 gears. Both accelerate a car fine if making same power, just at different rpms

FRMULA88

It's not misleading at all.. because a I4 car is smaller (lighter / less mass) therefore it simply needs less Torque to move it... however because it makes less torque is still needs a lower rear ratio to accelerate properly. but because the engine is smaller it burns less fuel.

A V8 in a big car (heavier/ more mass) that makes peak torque in the upper RPM range is VERY inefficient in a street application because you would need such a low gear ratio just to accelerate... fuel economy would also suffer.. because the engine is twice the size (or more that an I4.) and need to rev higher to make the torque needed to accelerate.

Veaceonee

iTrader: (1)

I had an 84 camaro with a 305 in it. Here is what i did.
Was told it was a 350 so I bought a complete 350 rebuild kit for it.

Bored cylinders .030 over
Installed a 327 crank
put the camshaft and lifters from the 350 rebuild kit (all the gaskets fit out of the kit also)
I don't remember if I used the rods out of the kit
High output oil pump
1.6 full roller rockers
edelbrock intake/carb
Full ACCEL ignition system

with the T-5 behind it, car was a rocket. After all the bugs got worked out of it.