383 Stroker - Advice needed
11-06-2014, 02:43 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
383 Stroker - Advice needed
So as the title says looking for some advice on beefing up my 383.
What I have:
• 4 bolt 70's 350 block
• stock main bearing
• bore clevite race bearings
• steel crank
• Stock heads with new valves springs and retainers
• edelbrock performer rpm cam
• .40 over bore making it a 385 cubic inch
• edelbrock performer intake
• edelbrock carb with a 1/2 inch carb spacer
What I want: around 450-500 hp (on a budget)
I'm looking at picking up lightly used Dart Pro 1 Aluminum Cylinder Heads http://www.summitracing.com/parts/drt-11511122p at 900 for the set. I'm thinking roller cams will be a must but would like to hear how others would complete this build. I appreciate the help.
What I have:
• 4 bolt 70's 350 block
• stock main bearing
• bore clevite race bearings
• steel crank
• Stock heads with new valves springs and retainers
• edelbrock performer rpm cam
• .40 over bore making it a 385 cubic inch
• edelbrock performer intake
• edelbrock carb with a 1/2 inch carb spacer
What I want: around 450-500 hp (on a budget)
I'm looking at picking up lightly used Dart Pro 1 Aluminum Cylinder Heads http://www.summitracing.com/parts/drt-11511122p at 900 for the set. I'm thinking roller cams will be a must but would like to hear how others would complete this build. I appreciate the help.
11-06-2014, 02:55 PM
#2
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
New bearings if needed, check clearances and all that.
What rods/pistons?
Roller cam upgrade is nice, but not entirely needed. Junk that eddy rpm cam and also intake. Get a nice port matched performer rpm type dual plane or similar and it should come alive
What rods/pistons?
Roller cam upgrade is nice, but not entirely needed. Junk that eddy rpm cam and also intake. Get a nice port matched performer rpm type dual plane or similar and it should come alive
11-06-2014, 06:17 PM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
Pistons are probes not sure about the rods. I purchased the engine with 3000 miles on it and have probably added another 1000.
11-06-2014, 09:03 PM
#4
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
Most people that have a street engine N/A and making 450-500 crank horsepower are doing so with a good roller cam, good heads, >10:1 compression. At that level it will also be important to get the details right such as ring gap, clearances for the bearings and pistons, etc,. Lots of articles have shown that a sbc will run with too big or too small clearances but there is a power loss and it's bigger than 5-10 horsepower. For an unforged crank 500 crank power is usually the manufacturer recommended upper limit. Roller cams by Comp/Crane/Howards/Bullet/Lunati in at least a 230* intake for a roller.
11-06-2014, 11:54 PM
#5
Supreme Member
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Bowdon, GA.
Posts: 2,535
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
14 Posts
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
Roller cam is not needed, and may not be the best bang for the buck. It's gonna run you $700-900 for a retro fit roller cam swap into your older block, and you will only pick up 20-25 HP over a flat tappet cam of same size.
Heads are the # 1 thing to look at for power. I tell everybody put half of your engine budget into your heads.
The dart heads used at $900 does not sound like the way to go to me. Dart has changed those heads 3 or 4 times, maybe more. The older ones did not flow that great for what they are. New brodix or pro filer heads are only $1200 or so, new AFRs only $1700
I would put the $900 you have for used heads, with the roller cam money and buy a set of AFR heads.. Then use a solid flat tappet cam. You will make much more power this away.
The newest dart pro1's 215cc port flows 276/180 cfm
The brodix IK 210cc port flows 284/219 cfm
The AFR 210cc port flows 309/220 cfm
The pro filer 210 heads flows over 300 cfm but can't remember exact #
The AFR 210's are under $1700 ready to bolt on.
Change that intake and cam. If you stick with a dual plane then go with a performer rpm air gap.. Or go to a single plane like Victor Jr. and port match it to heads.
In fact your intake and even the performer rpm won't fit the 210 or 215cc port heads. They have too big of ports and the performer intake has too small.
Cam.. solid flat tappet in the 245/255 @.050" range with a 106 or 108 LSA
Full roller billet alum rocker arms for 7/16" studs
Holley 850 double pumper
3500-3800 stall torque converter if auto
3.73 to 4.10 rear gears
Heads are the # 1 thing to look at for power. I tell everybody put half of your engine budget into your heads.
The dart heads used at $900 does not sound like the way to go to me. Dart has changed those heads 3 or 4 times, maybe more. The older ones did not flow that great for what they are. New brodix or pro filer heads are only $1200 or so, new AFRs only $1700
I would put the $900 you have for used heads, with the roller cam money and buy a set of AFR heads.. Then use a solid flat tappet cam. You will make much more power this away.
The newest dart pro1's 215cc port flows 276/180 cfm
The brodix IK 210cc port flows 284/219 cfm
The AFR 210cc port flows 309/220 cfm
The pro filer 210 heads flows over 300 cfm but can't remember exact #
The AFR 210's are under $1700 ready to bolt on.
Change that intake and cam. If you stick with a dual plane then go with a performer rpm air gap.. Or go to a single plane like Victor Jr. and port match it to heads.
In fact your intake and even the performer rpm won't fit the 210 or 215cc port heads. They have too big of ports and the performer intake has too small.
Cam.. solid flat tappet in the 245/255 @.050" range with a 106 or 108 LSA
Full roller billet alum rocker arms for 7/16" studs
Holley 850 double pumper
3500-3800 stall torque converter if auto
3.73 to 4.10 rear gears
Last edited by Night rider327; 11-07-2014 at 01:54 AM.
11-07-2014, 06:33 PM
#6
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 26,117
Received 1,688 Likes
on
1,283 Posts
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
Throw the cam in the trash. While it'll "make power", you'll HATE every minute of driving it. In the 40 years since that generic thing appeared, we've learned a thing or 2, as a species, about cams. Take advantage of it.
The Performer intake is basically a stock replacement piece. Not appropriate to your goal at all.
I'd be more concerned about the overall suitability of some 70s block, than ANYTHING else, if I was you. I've had SO MANY blocks from those years with The Starter Bolt Hole Problem, The Lifter Bores Don't Point At The Cam Problem, The Bell Housing Dowel Pins Aren't Centered On The Crank So The Transmission Eats Pump Bushings Problem, The Cylinders Don't Point At The Crank Journals Problem, The Decks Aren't Plumb Square Or Level Problem, .... the list just GOES ON .... to where I won't even TOUCH one of those POSs any more. I'd suggest getting a better block before proceeding.
Beating us out here over the head about "budget", like yours is something special, does nothing but **** us off. EVERYBODY has a "budget": some are just bigger than others. At some point, you have to realize that to get something GOOD, you have to PAY for it, people aren't going to just HAND OVER their hard labor or cash to you for NOTHING. That said, since we ALL have "budgets", we're going to give you the advice that gets you from where you are now (pile of parts of uncertain suitability, most of which will be in the trash before you reach your goal anyway) to where you want to be (fast car) for the least $$$. One thing YOU GOTTA LEARN, is that just because you didn't pay much for something, doesn't automatically make it "A Good Deal"; and even though you gotta pay MORE for something else BETTER, it may actually end up costing you LESS in the long run, if for no other reason than because you don't turn into Pete and Re-pete like so many of the other "budget" builds we see around here. Is it cheeeeeeeeper to spend more ONCE and do it right and put it behind you, than to spend a bit less and keep doing it OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER? Hmmmm.....
The Performer intake is basically a stock replacement piece. Not appropriate to your goal at all.
I'd be more concerned about the overall suitability of some 70s block, than ANYTHING else, if I was you. I've had SO MANY blocks from those years with The Starter Bolt Hole Problem, The Lifter Bores Don't Point At The Cam Problem, The Bell Housing Dowel Pins Aren't Centered On The Crank So The Transmission Eats Pump Bushings Problem, The Cylinders Don't Point At The Crank Journals Problem, The Decks Aren't Plumb Square Or Level Problem, .... the list just GOES ON .... to where I won't even TOUCH one of those POSs any more. I'd suggest getting a better block before proceeding.
Beating us out here over the head about "budget", like yours is something special, does nothing but **** us off. EVERYBODY has a "budget": some are just bigger than others. At some point, you have to realize that to get something GOOD, you have to PAY for it, people aren't going to just HAND OVER their hard labor or cash to you for NOTHING. That said, since we ALL have "budgets", we're going to give you the advice that gets you from where you are now (pile of parts of uncertain suitability, most of which will be in the trash before you reach your goal anyway) to where you want to be (fast car) for the least $$$. One thing YOU GOTTA LEARN, is that just because you didn't pay much for something, doesn't automatically make it "A Good Deal"; and even though you gotta pay MORE for something else BETTER, it may actually end up costing you LESS in the long run, if for no other reason than because you don't turn into Pete and Re-pete like so many of the other "budget" builds we see around here. Is it cheeeeeeeeper to spend more ONCE and do it right and put it behind you, than to spend a bit less and keep doing it OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER? Hmmmm.....
11-07-2014, 07:04 PM
#7
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
I'd be more concerned about the overall suitability of some 70s block, than ANYTHING else, if I was you. I've had SO MANY blocks from those years with The Starter Bolt Hole Problem, The Lifter Bores Don't Point At The Cam Problem, The Bell Housing Dowel Pins Aren't Centered On The Crank So The Transmission Eats Pump Bushings Problem, The Cylinders Don't Point At The Crank Journals Problem, The Decks Aren't Plumb Square Or Level Problem, .... the list just GOES ON .... to where I won't even TOUCH one of those POSs any more. I'd suggest getting a better block before proceeding.
.
.
Trending Topics
11-07-2014, 07:22 PM
#8
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 26,117
Received 1,688 Likes
on
1,283 Posts
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
Bad mfg
All of those Problems I referred to above, are the result of incredibly sloppy machine work tolerances. Reminders of the "constructive" relationship between greedy, lazy, work-averse, unmotivated labor and greedy, complacent, groupthink, "we've always done it this way after all we have 75 yrs of storied history are you trying to tell us that we've become the world's largest auto mfr and have won 2 world wars by not knowing what we're doing" management back in those days, which is of course what eventually bankrupted GM.
Which incidentally, is a TERRIFIC segue into why I don't do things the same way I did 20 yrs ago.
All of those Problems I referred to above, are the result of incredibly sloppy machine work tolerances. Reminders of the "constructive" relationship between greedy, lazy, work-averse, unmotivated labor and greedy, complacent, groupthink, "we've always done it this way after all we have 75 yrs of storied history are you trying to tell us that we've become the world's largest auto mfr and have won 2 world wars by not knowing what we're doing" management back in those days, which is of course what eventually bankrupted GM.
Which incidentally, is a TERRIFIC segue into why I don't do things the same way I did 20 yrs ago.
11-07-2014, 07:41 PM
#9
Supreme Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: St.Louis, IL
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 377
Transmission: TH350; Circle D 4200 converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
Roller cam is not needed, and may not be the best bang for the buck. It's gonna run you $700-900 for a retro fit roller cam swap into your older block, and you will only pick up 20-25 HP over a flat tappet cam of same size.
Heads are the # 1 thing to look at for power. I tell everybody put half of your engine budget into your heads.
The dart heads used at $900 does not sound like the way to go to me. Dart has changed those heads 3 or 4 times, maybe more. The older ones did not flow that great for what they are. New brodix or pro filer heads are only $1200 or so, new AFRs only $1700
I would put the $900 you have for used heads, with the roller cam money and buy a set of AFR heads.. Then use a solid flat tappet cam. You will make much more power this away.
The newest dart pro1's 215cc port flows 276/180 cfm
The brodix IK 210cc port flows 284/219 cfm
The AFR 210cc port flows 309/220 cfm
The pro filer 210 heads flows over 300 cfm but can't remember exact #
The AFR 210's are under $1700 ready to bolt on.
Change that intake and cam. If you stick with a dual plane then go with a performer rpm air gap.. Or go to a single plane like Victor Jr. and port match it to heads.
In fact your intake and even the performer rpm won't fit the 210 or 215cc port heads. They have too big of ports and the performer intake has too small.
Cam.. solid flat tappet in the 245/255 @.050" range with a 106 or 108 LSA
Full roller billet alum rocker arms for 7/16" studs
Holley 850 double pumper
3500-3800 stall torque converter if auto
3.73 to 4.10 rear gears
Heads are the # 1 thing to look at for power. I tell everybody put half of your engine budget into your heads.
The dart heads used at $900 does not sound like the way to go to me. Dart has changed those heads 3 or 4 times, maybe more. The older ones did not flow that great for what they are. New brodix or pro filer heads are only $1200 or so, new AFRs only $1700
I would put the $900 you have for used heads, with the roller cam money and buy a set of AFR heads.. Then use a solid flat tappet cam. You will make much more power this away.
The newest dart pro1's 215cc port flows 276/180 cfm
The brodix IK 210cc port flows 284/219 cfm
The AFR 210cc port flows 309/220 cfm
The pro filer 210 heads flows over 300 cfm but can't remember exact #
The AFR 210's are under $1700 ready to bolt on.
Change that intake and cam. If you stick with a dual plane then go with a performer rpm air gap.. Or go to a single plane like Victor Jr. and port match it to heads.
In fact your intake and even the performer rpm won't fit the 210 or 215cc port heads. They have too big of ports and the performer intake has too small.
Cam.. solid flat tappet in the 245/255 @.050" range with a 106 or 108 LSA
Full roller billet alum rocker arms for 7/16" studs
Holley 850 double pumper
3500-3800 stall torque converter if auto
3.73 to 4.10 rear gears
Don't mess with a single plane unless you get a real one. Anything less is a compromise that gets you nowhere. You will never use the cylinder heads to their fullest potential with a restrictive intake peaking out at 235 cfms out of the box.
11-08-2014, 09:37 AM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
Throw the cam in the trash. While it'll "make power", you'll HATE every minute of driving it. In the 40 years since that generic thing appeared, we've learned a thing or 2, as a species, about cams. Take advantage of it.
The Performer intake is basically a stock replacement piece. Not appropriate to your goal at all.
I'd be more concerned about the overall suitability of some 70s block, than ANYTHING else, if I was you. I've had SO MANY blocks from those years with The Starter Bolt Hole Problem, The Lifter Bores Don't Point At The Cam Problem, The Bell Housing Dowel Pins Aren't Centered On The Crank So The Transmission Eats Pump Bushings Problem, The Cylinders Don't Point At The Crank Journals Problem, The Decks Aren't Plumb Square Or Level Problem, .... the list just GOES ON .... to where I won't even TOUCH one of those POSs any more. I'd suggest getting a better block before proceeding.
Beating us out here over the head about "budget", like yours is something special, does nothing but **** us off. EVERYBODY has a "budget": some are just bigger than others. At some point, you have to realize that to get something GOOD, you have to PAY for it, people aren't going to just HAND OVER their hard labor or cash to you for NOTHING. That said, since we ALL have "budgets", we're going to give you the advice that gets you from where you are now (pile of parts of uncertain suitability, most of which will be in the trash before you reach your goal anyway) to where you want to be (fast car) for the least $$$. One thing YOU GOTTA LEARN, is that just because you didn't pay much for something, doesn't automatically make it "A Good Deal"; and even though you gotta pay MORE for something else BETTER, it may actually end up costing you LESS in the long run, if for no other reason than because you don't turn into Pete and Re-pete like so many of the other "budget" builds we see around here. Is it cheeeeeeeeper to spend more ONCE and do it right and put it behind you, than to spend a bit less and keep doing it OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER? Hmmmm.....
The Performer intake is basically a stock replacement piece. Not appropriate to your goal at all.
I'd be more concerned about the overall suitability of some 70s block, than ANYTHING else, if I was you. I've had SO MANY blocks from those years with The Starter Bolt Hole Problem, The Lifter Bores Don't Point At The Cam Problem, The Bell Housing Dowel Pins Aren't Centered On The Crank So The Transmission Eats Pump Bushings Problem, The Cylinders Don't Point At The Crank Journals Problem, The Decks Aren't Plumb Square Or Level Problem, .... the list just GOES ON .... to where I won't even TOUCH one of those POSs any more. I'd suggest getting a better block before proceeding.
Beating us out here over the head about "budget", like yours is something special, does nothing but **** us off. EVERYBODY has a "budget": some are just bigger than others. At some point, you have to realize that to get something GOOD, you have to PAY for it, people aren't going to just HAND OVER their hard labor or cash to you for NOTHING. That said, since we ALL have "budgets", we're going to give you the advice that gets you from where you are now (pile of parts of uncertain suitability, most of which will be in the trash before you reach your goal anyway) to where you want to be (fast car) for the least $$$. One thing YOU GOTTA LEARN, is that just because you didn't pay much for something, doesn't automatically make it "A Good Deal"; and even though you gotta pay MORE for something else BETTER, it may actually end up costing you LESS in the long run, if for no other reason than because you don't turn into Pete and Re-pete like so many of the other "budget" builds we see around here. Is it cheeeeeeeeper to spend more ONCE and do it right and put it behind you, than to spend a bit less and keep doing it OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER? Hmmmm.....
11-08-2014, 10:58 AM
#11
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 887
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
9 Posts
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: L31 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 D44
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
...most cost effective manner, meaning doing it once but choosing a configuration that makes sense. I considered aftermarket blocks but at that point I would be starting from square one and might look into crate engines or an entirely different engine configuration. In your opinion would that be the way to go? Anyone else have an opinion on the block?
Using Summit for price points:
$1000 for a bare Chevy block.
$1700 +/- for a bare Dart SHP block.
$2000-$3000 for ATK shortblocks.
$2200 for a Blueprint shortblock.
$3750 for a Chevy shortblock.
$4500 for a Chevy longblock. Sell off parts you don't need. It might be money ahead for misc parts: lifters, sheetmetal, fasteners, etc.
My personal choice leans toward genuine Chevy. Since they manufacture a million engines a year, that they have to warrantee for 5/50k or more, I believe they know something about assembling engines that last. And some of that knowledge and skill will translate to their aftermarket offerings. FYI: Chevy's "383" is a 3.800" crank with a standard 4.000" bore, vs the aftermarket 3.750" x 4.030".
I've heard Blueprint horror stories here on TGO. But, I've had a local car guy (professional shop and as a hobby) fully recommend Blueprint based on his n>1 experience. I haven't researched ATK for quality.
11-08-2014, 12:29 PM
#12
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 26,117
Received 1,688 Likes
on
1,283 Posts
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
My opinion on the block is, 70s blocks have AWFUL quality control; and paying someone to check all of the things that MIGHT be wrong with it THAT YOU CAN THINK OF, is already more expensive than just going to the junkyard or the machine shop itself, and just buying a later-model core with better quality control.
There aren't many more disappointing things to have happen, than to sink untold giga$$$ into some motor, where of course you start out with some block; and all the way at the very end of the process, when all that money is spent and the work is done and you can't get it back and your car is sitting there with some fatal problem (can't get a starter to work, cam has rolled the same lobes off 3 times on 3 different cams, you're on your 3rd transmission that whined real bad and finally ate the pump bushing, etc. etc. etc. etc.) and you realize that it's because the block is fornicated and you can't repair it.... that's something I've had happen, and I don't ever want to see anybody else go through.
You'll hear horror stories about EVERY engine rebuilder. What you WON'T hear, is success stories. Just like the comment cards at restaurants, that people only fill out when they want to bitch; people only post stuff about a rebuilder when they have problems. Well I'll let you in on a nasty little secret: about 75% OR MORE of all "rebuilder" problems you'll hear, are ACTUALLY factory block quality control problems. "Rebuilding" a motor is so simple and such a no-brainer for a properly equipped shop, that it's all but impossible to screw up. The way they get screwed up is almost invariably some defect in the block that they didn't or couldn't check for. And the majority of those, when dealing with 70s blocks, came from the factory that way.
The comment about "genuine Chevrolet" and "warranty" is interesting... I'm sure lots of you guys are newer to this hobby than, say, 1990. Well, in the 70s, the factory warranty on the motor was 12 mo or 12,000 miles. And ALOT of em didn't even make it THAT far. Yes,, they were THAT crappy. That being said, if any of the aftermarket rebuilders start out a given rebuilt motor with a core that DOESN'T have unrecoverable factory quality-control defects like so many 70s blocks did, they'd be every bit as reliable as "genuine Chevy".
Bottom line is, ditch the risky 70s block, and get a newer one (96-2000 are plentiful and cheeeeeep), and go from there. Your odds of success, all else equal, will VASTLY improve. And getting roller cam provisions and the eeeeeezier rear main seal system, are just icing on the cake.
There aren't many more disappointing things to have happen, than to sink untold giga$$$ into some motor, where of course you start out with some block; and all the way at the very end of the process, when all that money is spent and the work is done and you can't get it back and your car is sitting there with some fatal problem (can't get a starter to work, cam has rolled the same lobes off 3 times on 3 different cams, you're on your 3rd transmission that whined real bad and finally ate the pump bushing, etc. etc. etc. etc.) and you realize that it's because the block is fornicated and you can't repair it.... that's something I've had happen, and I don't ever want to see anybody else go through.
You'll hear horror stories about EVERY engine rebuilder. What you WON'T hear, is success stories. Just like the comment cards at restaurants, that people only fill out when they want to bitch; people only post stuff about a rebuilder when they have problems. Well I'll let you in on a nasty little secret: about 75% OR MORE of all "rebuilder" problems you'll hear, are ACTUALLY factory block quality control problems. "Rebuilding" a motor is so simple and such a no-brainer for a properly equipped shop, that it's all but impossible to screw up. The way they get screwed up is almost invariably some defect in the block that they didn't or couldn't check for. And the majority of those, when dealing with 70s blocks, came from the factory that way.
The comment about "genuine Chevrolet" and "warranty" is interesting... I'm sure lots of you guys are newer to this hobby than, say, 1990. Well, in the 70s, the factory warranty on the motor was 12 mo or 12,000 miles. And ALOT of em didn't even make it THAT far. Yes,, they were THAT crappy. That being said, if any of the aftermarket rebuilders start out a given rebuilt motor with a core that DOESN'T have unrecoverable factory quality-control defects like so many 70s blocks did, they'd be every bit as reliable as "genuine Chevy".
Bottom line is, ditch the risky 70s block, and get a newer one (96-2000 are plentiful and cheeeeeep), and go from there. Your odds of success, all else equal, will VASTLY improve. And getting roller cam provisions and the eeeeeezier rear main seal system, are just icing on the cake.
11-08-2014, 05:14 PM
#13
Supreme Member
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Bowdon, GA.
Posts: 2,535
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
14 Posts
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
Neither the profiler nor the AFR heads flow at 300. Both of them are roughly 287-290 cfms measured at .600 lift. Also keep in mind that the cross section is different between the two heads as far as I can remember, and peak flow is meaningless collectively speaking. A profiler 210 will want a lot of RPM's on a 385 stroker.
Don't mess with a single plane unless you get a real one. Anything less is a compromise that gets you nowhere. You will never use the cylinder heads to their fullest potential with a restrictive intake peaking out at 235 cfms out of the box.
Don't mess with a single plane unless you get a real one. Anything less is a compromise that gets you nowhere. You will never use the cylinder heads to their fullest potential with a restrictive intake peaking out at 235 cfms out of the box.
http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=24_33
210cc SBC "Eliminator" 23° Racing Head
http://www.airflowresearch.com/image...bc/210ccRH.gif
Shows 301 cfm @ .0500" lift, 309 @ .600", 311 @ .650" lift
The newer "eliminator" AFR heads flows better than the older ones. Now yes this is AFR's flow test, I have not looked for independent flow bench results on this head so who knows, but I know AFR is pretty good about not inflating their numbers.
I run a 200cc port Brodix head on a 355. Makes peak HP around 6800 rpm or so. The 210cc port heads should be fine for a 383/385 stroker making 500 HP and peaking around the 6700-6900 rpm point.
11-08-2014, 11:16 PM
#14
Supreme Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: St.Louis, IL
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 377
Transmission: TH350; Circle D 4200 converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=24_33
210cc SBC "Eliminator" 23° Racing Head
http://www.airflowresearch.com/image...bc/210ccRH.gif
Shows 301 cfm @ .0500" lift, 309 @ .600", 311 @ .650" lift
The newer "eliminator" AFR heads flows better than the older ones. Now yes this is AFR's flow test, I have not looked for independent flow bench results on this head so who knows, but I know AFR is pretty good about not inflating their numbers.
I run a 200cc port Brodix head on a 355. Makes peak HP around 6800 rpm or so. The 210cc port heads should be fine for a 383/385 stroker making 500 HP and peaking around the 6700-6900 rpm point.
210cc SBC "Eliminator" 23° Racing Head
http://www.airflowresearch.com/image...bc/210ccRH.gif
Shows 301 cfm @ .0500" lift, 309 @ .600", 311 @ .650" lift
The newer "eliminator" AFR heads flows better than the older ones. Now yes this is AFR's flow test, I have not looked for independent flow bench results on this head so who knows, but I know AFR is pretty good about not inflating their numbers.
I run a 200cc port Brodix head on a 355. Makes peak HP around 6800 rpm or so. The 210cc port heads should be fine for a 383/385 stroker making 500 HP and peaking around the 6700-6900 rpm point.
11-09-2014, 09:08 AM
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
My opinion on the block is, 70s blocks have AWFUL quality control; and paying someone to check all of the things that MIGHT be wrong with it THAT YOU CAN THINK OF, is already more expensive than just going to the junkyard or the machine shop itself, and just buying a later-model core with better quality control.
There aren't many more disappointing things to have happen, than to sink untold giga$$$ into some motor, where of course you start out with some block; and all the way at the very end of the process, when all that money is spent and the work is done and you can't get it back and your car is sitting there with some fatal problem (can't get a starter to work, cam has rolled the same lobes off 3 times on 3 different cams, you're on your 3rd transmission that whined real bad and finally ate the pump bushing, etc. etc. etc. etc.) and you realize that it's because the block is fornicated and you can't repair it.... that's something I've had happen, and I don't ever want to see anybody else go through.
You'll hear horror stories about EVERY engine rebuilder. What you WON'T hear, is success stories. Just like the comment cards at restaurants, that people only fill out when they want to bitch; people only post stuff about a rebuilder when they have problems. Well I'll let you in on a nasty little secret: about 75% OR MORE of all "rebuilder" problems you'll hear, are ACTUALLY factory block quality control problems. "Rebuilding" a motor is so simple and such a no-brainer for a properly equipped shop, that it's all but impossible to screw up. The way they get screwed up is almost invariably some defect in the block that they didn't or couldn't check for. And the majority of those, when dealing with 70s blocks, came from the factory that way.
The comment about "genuine Chevrolet" and "warranty" is interesting... I'm sure lots of you guys are newer to this hobby than, say, 1990. Well, in the 70s, the factory warranty on the motor was 12 mo or 12,000 miles. And ALOT of em didn't even make it THAT far. Yes,, they were THAT crappy. That being said, if any of the aftermarket rebuilders start out a given rebuilt motor with a core that DOESN'T have unrecoverable factory quality-control defects like so many 70s blocks did, they'd be every bit as reliable as "genuine Chevy".
Bottom line is, ditch the risky 70s block, and get a newer one (96-2000 are plentiful and cheeeeeep), and go from there. Your odds of success, all else equal, will VASTLY improve. And getting roller cam provisions and the eeeeeezier rear main seal system, are just icing on the cake.
There aren't many more disappointing things to have happen, than to sink untold giga$$$ into some motor, where of course you start out with some block; and all the way at the very end of the process, when all that money is spent and the work is done and you can't get it back and your car is sitting there with some fatal problem (can't get a starter to work, cam has rolled the same lobes off 3 times on 3 different cams, you're on your 3rd transmission that whined real bad and finally ate the pump bushing, etc. etc. etc. etc.) and you realize that it's because the block is fornicated and you can't repair it.... that's something I've had happen, and I don't ever want to see anybody else go through.
You'll hear horror stories about EVERY engine rebuilder. What you WON'T hear, is success stories. Just like the comment cards at restaurants, that people only fill out when they want to bitch; people only post stuff about a rebuilder when they have problems. Well I'll let you in on a nasty little secret: about 75% OR MORE of all "rebuilder" problems you'll hear, are ACTUALLY factory block quality control problems. "Rebuilding" a motor is so simple and such a no-brainer for a properly equipped shop, that it's all but impossible to screw up. The way they get screwed up is almost invariably some defect in the block that they didn't or couldn't check for. And the majority of those, when dealing with 70s blocks, came from the factory that way.
The comment about "genuine Chevrolet" and "warranty" is interesting... I'm sure lots of you guys are newer to this hobby than, say, 1990. Well, in the 70s, the factory warranty on the motor was 12 mo or 12,000 miles. And ALOT of em didn't even make it THAT far. Yes,, they were THAT crappy. That being said, if any of the aftermarket rebuilders start out a given rebuilt motor with a core that DOESN'T have unrecoverable factory quality-control defects like so many 70s blocks did, they'd be every bit as reliable as "genuine Chevy".
Bottom line is, ditch the risky 70s block, and get a newer one (96-2000 are plentiful and cheeeeeep), and go from there. Your odds of success, all else equal, will VASTLY improve. And getting roller cam provisions and the eeeeeezier rear main seal system, are just icing on the cake.
11-09-2014, 10:33 AM
#16
Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
I CNC machine all my blocks and before and machining is done the block goes through a probing cycle which takes about 10 minutes, The machine checks for deck heights, cylinder bore locations in X and Y and tells me the size of each cylinder. I can check cam to crank center lines, lifter bores ETC.
To date I have not see the later blocks any better then the earlier blocks as they are both production machine blocks and quality on some blocks is very low compared to Dart or Bowtie blocks.
First thing I do is sonic test the cylinders for thickness and again between the old and new block I really see no difference.
I have seen on OEM blocks old a new that lifter bore placement is not very accurate and on a flat tappet cam its not a big deal as the cam is riding on a flat surface ( convex surface on the bottom of the lifter )
Now on a Roller lifter you dealing direct center lines and I have seen lifter bores off up to .020 or so. Which will change seat timing events.
Also have seen cam tunnel placement off .016 from front to rear.
70's block it may have the 2482 center 4 bolt main caps which is GM performance main caps back then.
Which would make for a good block if it sonic tested good.
Here is a 383 I did about a month ago on my F/B page for a marine build that same engine with 11.01 compression, Lobe sep tightened up to 108 Duration at .050 231/235 The heads were a set of Dart 180 SHP heads 72CC chambers. I would have to say it would make in the low 500's
https://www.facebook.com/cncblocks.n...28320384014477
That was a block from GM 10105123 block, I still needed to deck it to zero, had to line hone, bore the cylinders and torque plate hone and 3 lifter bores were on the tight side.
To date I have not see the later blocks any better then the earlier blocks as they are both production machine blocks and quality on some blocks is very low compared to Dart or Bowtie blocks.
First thing I do is sonic test the cylinders for thickness and again between the old and new block I really see no difference.
I have seen on OEM blocks old a new that lifter bore placement is not very accurate and on a flat tappet cam its not a big deal as the cam is riding on a flat surface ( convex surface on the bottom of the lifter )
Now on a Roller lifter you dealing direct center lines and I have seen lifter bores off up to .020 or so. Which will change seat timing events.
Also have seen cam tunnel placement off .016 from front to rear.
70's block it may have the 2482 center 4 bolt main caps which is GM performance main caps back then.
Which would make for a good block if it sonic tested good.
Here is a 383 I did about a month ago on my F/B page for a marine build that same engine with 11.01 compression, Lobe sep tightened up to 108 Duration at .050 231/235 The heads were a set of Dart 180 SHP heads 72CC chambers. I would have to say it would make in the low 500's
https://www.facebook.com/cncblocks.n...28320384014477
That was a block from GM 10105123 block, I still needed to deck it to zero, had to line hone, bore the cylinders and torque plate hone and 3 lifter bores were on the tight side.
11-09-2014, 11:35 AM
#17
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,529
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
What drive me nuts is when you "try" to do some good and it ends up hurting you.The real question about a roller retro fit cam is it a safety approach to performance??.How many times have you read about flat tappet guys rounding off lobes and the resulting damage costs??.Think about "trying" to salvage a engine afterwards and doing it over again.Sure doesn't sound very expensive to do a retro fit roller cam then.Also lets not forget how much better the hydro roller cam's profiles are over the flat tappet cams.
11-11-2014, 10:39 AM
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
Roller cam is not needed, and may not be the best bang for the buck. It's gonna run you $700-900 for a retro fit roller cam swap into your older block, and you will only pick up 20-25 HP over a flat tappet cam of same size.
Heads are the # 1 thing to look at for power. I tell everybody put half of your engine budget into your heads.
The dart heads used at $900 does not sound like the way to go to me. Dart has changed those heads 3 or 4 times, maybe more. The older ones did not flow that great for what they are. New brodix or pro filer heads are only $1200 or so, new AFRs only $1700
I would put the $900 you have for used heads, with the roller cam money and buy a set of AFR heads.. Then use a solid flat tappet cam. You will make much more power this away.
The newest dart pro1's 215cc port flows 276/180 cfm
The brodix IK 210cc port flows 284/219 cfm
The AFR 210cc port flows 309/220 cfm
The pro filer 210 heads flows over 300 cfm but can't remember exact #
The AFR 210's are under $1700 ready to bolt on.
Change that intake and cam. If you stick with a dual plane then go with a performer rpm air gap.. Or go to a single plane like Victor Jr. and port match it to heads.
In fact your intake and even the performer rpm won't fit the 210 or 215cc port heads. They have too big of ports and the performer intake has too small.
Cam.. solid flat tappet in the 245/255 @.050" range with a 106 or 108 LSA
Full roller billet alum rocker arms for 7/16" studs
Holley 850 double pumper
3500-3800 stall torque converter if auto
3.73 to 4.10 rear gears
Heads are the # 1 thing to look at for power. I tell everybody put half of your engine budget into your heads.
The dart heads used at $900 does not sound like the way to go to me. Dart has changed those heads 3 or 4 times, maybe more. The older ones did not flow that great for what they are. New brodix or pro filer heads are only $1200 or so, new AFRs only $1700
I would put the $900 you have for used heads, with the roller cam money and buy a set of AFR heads.. Then use a solid flat tappet cam. You will make much more power this away.
The newest dart pro1's 215cc port flows 276/180 cfm
The brodix IK 210cc port flows 284/219 cfm
The AFR 210cc port flows 309/220 cfm
The pro filer 210 heads flows over 300 cfm but can't remember exact #
The AFR 210's are under $1700 ready to bolt on.
Change that intake and cam. If you stick with a dual plane then go with a performer rpm air gap.. Or go to a single plane like Victor Jr. and port match it to heads.
In fact your intake and even the performer rpm won't fit the 210 or 215cc port heads. They have too big of ports and the performer intake has too small.
Cam.. solid flat tappet in the 245/255 @.050" range with a 106 or 108 LSA
Full roller billet alum rocker arms for 7/16" studs
Holley 850 double pumper
3500-3800 stall torque converter if auto
3.73 to 4.10 rear gears
11-11-2014, 10:41 AM
#19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
I CNC machine all my blocks and before and machining is done the block goes through a probing cycle which takes about 10 minutes, The machine checks for deck heights, cylinder bore locations in X and Y and tells me the size of each cylinder. I can check cam to crank center lines, lifter bores ETC.
To date I have not see the later blocks any better then the earlier blocks as they are both production machine blocks and quality on some blocks is very low compared to Dart or Bowtie blocks.
First thing I do is sonic test the cylinders for thickness and again between the old and new block I really see no difference.
I have seen on OEM blocks old a new that lifter bore placement is not very accurate and on a flat tappet cam its not a big deal as the cam is riding on a flat surface ( convex surface on the bottom of the lifter )
Now on a Roller lifter you dealing direct center lines and I have seen lifter bores off up to .020 or so. Which will change seat timing events.
Also have seen cam tunnel placement off .016 from front to rear.
70's block it may have the 2482 center 4 bolt main caps which is GM performance main caps back then.
Which would make for a good block if it sonic tested good.
Here is a 383 I did about a month ago on my F/B page for a marine build that same engine with 11.01 compression, Lobe sep tightened up to 108 Duration at .050 231/235 The heads were a set of Dart 180 SHP heads 72CC chambers. I would have to say it would make in the low 500's
https://www.facebook.com/cncblocks.n...28320384014477
That was a block from GM 10105123 block, I still needed to deck it to zero, had to line hone, bore the cylinders and torque plate hone and 3 lifter bores were on the tight side.
To date I have not see the later blocks any better then the earlier blocks as they are both production machine blocks and quality on some blocks is very low compared to Dart or Bowtie blocks.
First thing I do is sonic test the cylinders for thickness and again between the old and new block I really see no difference.
I have seen on OEM blocks old a new that lifter bore placement is not very accurate and on a flat tappet cam its not a big deal as the cam is riding on a flat surface ( convex surface on the bottom of the lifter )
Now on a Roller lifter you dealing direct center lines and I have seen lifter bores off up to .020 or so. Which will change seat timing events.
Also have seen cam tunnel placement off .016 from front to rear.
70's block it may have the 2482 center 4 bolt main caps which is GM performance main caps back then.
Which would make for a good block if it sonic tested good.
Here is a 383 I did about a month ago on my F/B page for a marine build that same engine with 11.01 compression, Lobe sep tightened up to 108 Duration at .050 231/235 The heads were a set of Dart 180 SHP heads 72CC chambers. I would have to say it would make in the low 500's
https://www.facebook.com/cncblocks.n...28320384014477
That was a block from GM 10105123 block, I still needed to deck it to zero, had to line hone, bore the cylinders and torque plate hone and 3 lifter bores were on the tight side.
11-11-2014, 01:23 PM
#20
Supreme Member
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Bowdon, GA.
Posts: 2,535
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
14 Posts
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
Check your piston #'s. IIRC Probe only makes 4cc flat tops for the 383.
Use 0 decked block and .040" gasket, or stock deck and .015" gasket
If you do have 4cc flat tops, I would use 72cc heads
That will put you at 10.32:1 compression
64cc heads would have you at 11.29:1
For cams I like Howards, and Lunati
Use 0 decked block and .040" gasket, or stock deck and .015" gasket
If you do have 4cc flat tops, I would use 72cc heads
That will put you at 10.32:1 compression
64cc heads would have you at 11.29:1
For cams I like Howards, and Lunati
11-11-2014, 02:35 PM
#21
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
Check your piston #'s. IIRC Probe only makes 4cc flat tops for the 383.
Use 0 decked block and .040" gasket, or stock deck and .015" gasket
If you do have 4cc flat tops, I would use 72cc heads
That will put you at 10.32:1 compression
64cc heads would have you at 11.29:1
For cams I like Howards, and Lunati
Use 0 decked block and .040" gasket, or stock deck and .015" gasket
If you do have 4cc flat tops, I would use 72cc heads
That will put you at 10.32:1 compression
64cc heads would have you at 11.29:1
For cams I like Howards, and Lunati
11-11-2014, 03:20 PM
#22
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
Yes that was my concern. I'm already at a high compression ratio with the stock 72cc heads. Do you think I could get my compression ratio low enough to use 64cc heads with thicker gaskets a bigger cam and less advance? Or am I just playing with fire (literally) at that point? unfortunately I couldn't tell you the specs on the Pistons as that information wasn't available to me.
11-11-2014, 08:09 PM
#23
Supreme Member
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Bowdon, GA.
Posts: 2,535
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
14 Posts
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
10:1 to 10.5:1 is perfect for 93 octane alum headed engine.
If you try the thicker gaskets, it will lower your compression, but it kills your quench height and the engine will ping more now with the lower compression than it would have with higher compression and tight quench.
Look up info on quench. It's like free built in 'octane booster' for lack of better term. Keep the quench height in the .038" to .042" and it can get away with alot more compression than you think you could.
Flat top 383 just aint gonna be happy with 64cc heads on the street. 11:1 compression is tough to run on our pee water fuel. Yes you can cam it to run on 93 octane but your cam will be so big you will not like the engine or driving the car.
With a flat top 383, 72cc heads puts you just where you want to be. Stab in a 236/248 or 240/250 @.050" cam with a 106 or 108 LSA and you will have you a real mean street brawler.
If you try the thicker gaskets, it will lower your compression, but it kills your quench height and the engine will ping more now with the lower compression than it would have with higher compression and tight quench.
Look up info on quench. It's like free built in 'octane booster' for lack of better term. Keep the quench height in the .038" to .042" and it can get away with alot more compression than you think you could.
Flat top 383 just aint gonna be happy with 64cc heads on the street. 11:1 compression is tough to run on our pee water fuel. Yes you can cam it to run on 93 octane but your cam will be so big you will not like the engine or driving the car.
With a flat top 383, 72cc heads puts you just where you want to be. Stab in a 236/248 or 240/250 @.050" cam with a 106 or 108 LSA and you will have you a real mean street brawler.
11-11-2014, 08:22 PM
#24
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
A roller 383 with AFR heads will do it.
A stock LT1 with a 230/236 roller cam will do just shy of ~400hp for a LOT cheaper... maybe even within your budget.
Just sayin'...
LT1's arent really the best option for many things... but they are the cheapest way to 400hp that I know of. Past that you're on your own. This assumes you get a good running pullout engine, which isnt easy to ensure... I dont blame anyone for passing on them, but they've got potential.
Also, I agree with sofa says about those old blocks. You're a lot better off with a roller cam in the long run and the short run and you can do it much more cost effectively with a roller block. Sure, a roller cam may only be good for another 25-30hp over the same size flat tappet, but that's 25-30hp within a streetable RPM range. Every engine and build will have a sweet spot for what RPM range you can work with, and a roller cam gets you more power at the same RPMs.
A stock LT1 with a 230/236 roller cam will do just shy of ~400hp for a LOT cheaper... maybe even within your budget.
Just sayin'...
LT1's arent really the best option for many things... but they are the cheapest way to 400hp that I know of. Past that you're on your own. This assumes you get a good running pullout engine, which isnt easy to ensure... I dont blame anyone for passing on them, but they've got potential.
Also, I agree with sofa says about those old blocks. You're a lot better off with a roller cam in the long run and the short run and you can do it much more cost effectively with a roller block. Sure, a roller cam may only be good for another 25-30hp over the same size flat tappet, but that's 25-30hp within a streetable RPM range. Every engine and build will have a sweet spot for what RPM range you can work with, and a roller cam gets you more power at the same RPMs.
Last edited by InfernalVortex; 11-11-2014 at 08:28 PM.
11-11-2014, 09:31 PM
#25
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
10:1 to 10.5:1 is perfect for 93 octane alum headed engine.
If you try the thicker gaskets, it will lower your compression, but it kills your quench height and the engine will ping more now with the lower compression than it would have with higher compression and tight quench.
Look up info on quench. It's like free built in 'octane booster' for lack of better term. Keep the quench height in the .038" to .042" and it can get away with alot more compression than you think you could.
Flat top 383 just aint gonna be happy with 64cc heads on the street. 11:1 compression is tough to run on our pee water fuel. Yes you can cam it to run on 93 octane but your cam will be so big you will not like the engine or driving the car.
With a flat top 383, 72cc heads puts you just where you want to be. Stab in a 236/248 or 240/250 @.050" cam with a 106 or 108 LSA and you will have you a real mean street brawler.
If you try the thicker gaskets, it will lower your compression, but it kills your quench height and the engine will ping more now with the lower compression than it would have with higher compression and tight quench.
Look up info on quench. It's like free built in 'octane booster' for lack of better term. Keep the quench height in the .038" to .042" and it can get away with alot more compression than you think you could.
Flat top 383 just aint gonna be happy with 64cc heads on the street. 11:1 compression is tough to run on our pee water fuel. Yes you can cam it to run on 93 octane but your cam will be so big you will not like the engine or driving the car.
With a flat top 383, 72cc heads puts you just where you want to be. Stab in a 236/248 or 240/250 @.050" cam with a 106 or 108 LSA and you will have you a real mean street brawler.
Last edited by Tibo; 11-11-2014 at 09:35 PM.
11-12-2014, 06:48 AM
#26
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,529
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
These pistons are the best of both worlds.They have a quench ring and reverse dome to the needed compression for pump gas.
They are called a "D-cup" style.
They are called a "D-cup" style.
11-13-2014, 02:39 PM
#28
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
Ideally id like to put the dart pro 1s on top of the engine and slide in a camshaft with the aggressive profile necessary to handle the compression ratio. My concern is that I would be predetonating on pump gas with a cr above 11. I was pinging at 38 degrees of advance with the stock heads and reigned it back to 35. As night rider said I think I'm asking for trouble with that combo. But I also think that would be the most cost effective way to reach my hp goals.
11-13-2014, 03:34 PM
#29
Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
Ideally id like to put the dart pro 1s on top of the engine and slide in a camshaft with the aggressive profile necessary to handle the compression ratio. My concern is that I would be predetonating on pump gas with a cr above 11. I was pinging at 38 degrees of advance with the stock heads and reigned it back to 35. As night rider said I think I'm asking for trouble with that combo. But I also think that would be the most cost effective way to reach my hp goals.
You could buy the Dart SHP 72CC chamber P/N 127222 for a 1000 dollars or so, Air Gap intake, The 180 runner head would meat your goals with the correct cam
11-13-2014, 05:53 PM
#30
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
Ideally id like to put the dart pro 1s on top of the engine and slide in a camshaft with the aggressive profile necessary to handle the compression ratio. My concern is that I would be predetonating on pump gas with a cr above 11. I was pinging at 38 degrees of advance with the stock heads and reigned it back to 35. As night rider said I think I'm asking for trouble with that combo. But I also think that would be the most cost effective way to reach my hp goals.
The aluminum l98 style chambers will usually take more spark advance, the AFR and trick flow and aluminum L98 vette heads are known to take 36-38*. Stock iron heads with those old style chambers don't need more than 34* before they ping.
11-13-2014, 07:32 PM
#31
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
If your only using a performer intake the 215 Dart heads are a waste of money the intake has much to small of CSA to support a 215 runner head.
You could buy the Dart SHP 72CC chamber P/N 127222 for a 1000 dollars or so, Air Gap intake, The 180 runner head would meat your goals with the correct cam
You could buy the Dart SHP 72CC chamber P/N 127222 for a 1000 dollars or so, Air Gap intake, The 180 runner head would meat your goals with the correct cam
11-14-2014, 12:03 AM
#32
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Canada
Posts: 962
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
10 Posts
Car: 1979 Malibu
Engine: Blown LSx
Transmission: T56 Magnum
Axle/Gears: 9"/wavetrac/35's/3.70
Re: 383 Stroker - Advice needed
The dart dual plane is a killer intake aswell, and is a much better choice. We`ve made 500HP on our Stuska/Depac dyno, Unported Dart pro 1 200, 400ci, 9.5:1 CR, 224/230 @0.050" 0.600"0.600" (aprox) on straight pump gas through lightning water jacketed headers. Makes around 505 Ft lb's of torque.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mhatfield 14
Tech / General Engine
5
10-24-2015 07:48 AM