Ghettobird52

So have been working doing my header swap (jeg mids for hooker 2055's). Old headers came out fine ( now have ac delete, smog plumbing disconnected for the moment). The Hookers got into position decently. I could have thrown the driver side at my engine bay and it probably could of slipped into its spot and the passenger side i had to wrestle slightly BUT NOTHING LIKE INSTALLING HEADERS WITH AC BOX AND SMOG PLUMBING. When installing my Jegs I HAD TO disconnect motor mounts and jack motor up slightly to get my passenger header in, but these i did not. My problem is actually bolting the passenger side header to the head. Driver side bolted up no problems, but the passenger side is having ALOT of trouble getting my 2nd bolt even starting to thread. It appears the collector is rubbing/hitting against the bell housing of the transmission, this is causing the header flange to be unable to become flush with the head. I ran to the store for a beer and did some quick research and found out that what my collector is hitting is called a bell housing 'ear' . Basically it appears my transmission has been replaced in its life time and these headers are hitting the collector. I was finagling with it for only about 5 mins until i got frustrated and decided to get the driver side in so i might need to 'wrestle' with it a little more, but im wondering if anyone has ran into this problem before or if this is just how its going to be to get this 2nd bolt to start to thread. My Jeg headers DID NOT have this problem. Im also using Percy's Aluminum Exhaust Gaskets but i doubt this is the problem as driver side worked great.

Any information or advice is GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks all

EDIT: Also does anyone know what type of blade to buy for a sawzall for cutting exhaust pipes? I bought a sawzall to cut my old exhaust off ( doing a full exhaust swap headers back) and the blade that came with my sawzall became dull within 15seconds of cutting. I got through one(BARELY!) pipe and now it wont even start a cut on another pipe.

hdis2002

iTrader: (1)

I've got the hooker 2046's which are pretty much the same as 2055's without the air pipes. Mines an 87 with a 5.7 and 700r4. It was kinda tight but I got them on. I've got about an inch of clearance between the trans and the header. I started with the next to last bolt first. Just enough to grab the threads good and then moved to the first bolt, again just enough to grab the threads and hold. Added the rest of the bolts after that and then tightened them all up a little bit at a time. At first it didn't look like the headers would fit, but once I got everything tight, they did. Maybe this process will work for you. On the sawzall blade, make sure you get the blade that is for metal only, not the multipurpose wood-plastic-metal.

90camaro355rs

if your header hits the ear on the trans, it is possible for you to grind the ear some to allow for clearance, I would only grind just enough for it to fit. Dido on the sawzaw blade.

Ghettobird52

Thanks guys, i ended up being able to get the passenger side header on this AM!!!! Bolted up the Y-pipe, now waiting to get my exhaust system welded up! Heres a vid clip with open headers


wow im in idiot, just noticed i was covering the cameras mic when i first started the car.... lol

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

Looks like progress. How's hood clearance with that air cleaner? Looks a little taller than mine and it JUST fits.

Ghettobird52

Funny you talk about clearance because i didnt think it would fit under my hood either. What i ended up having trouble clearing was my coil. I have edelbrock performer TBI intake (3704) so the runners are slightly bigger, I had to use spacers stacked up to 2-1/4"!!! My Injectors are completely shrouded so i think im going to be building a CAI very soon. Nonetheless it fit under my hood. FYI i do have the 'formula bulge' hood so that did help.