billybob6110

i have a 670 street avenger on my 355 sbc. I cannot get the thing to start or idle without a lot of the transition slot showing. I have the idle screw turned in a lot and I have to have the air mix screw out 2 1/2 turns and it purrs like a kitten about 900rpm. is this normal to have this kind of issue? I thought it was 1 1/4 turn on mixture screws then in. I have no idea how to tune this turd, and am thinking about going back to my eddy carb. any suggestions???

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...ey-tuning.html

DO NOT start somewhere in the middle; DO NOT skip any steps; DO follow the stpe-by-step process (jets first, PV next, transfer slot next, etc. etc. etc.) IN ORDER.

Let us know how it turns out.

Should be about like this. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...ey-tuning.html

billybob6110

would a carb cause a car to be hard to start when hot? the thing runs like a raped ape but once I shut it off being warm I have to hold gas pedal to floor, carb sounds like its loading up, clears itself and good to go.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

That sounds like the fuel inside it, is boiling and spewing.

Not the fault of the carb itself.

Try adding a 2nd fuel pump gasket and a 2nd block-off plate gasket.

billybob6110

I have an electric pump to a dead head regulator.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Original stock q-jet? Notice the proximity of the fuel lines to the exhaust. There's a reason the factory used a return style fuel pump.

billybob6110

its a holley street avenger. the fuel lines are tucked up against the frame and run to firewall. should I relocate the fuel lines or is it something carb related?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Your problem is the combination of the dead-head regulator (bad enough all by itself), but then, the fuel line too close to the exhaust.

The fuel just SITS in that line after shut-off, and gets up to no telling what temp; then when you start it up, you dump 300° fuel or whatever, into the carb, and THE INSTANT it comes out from under all that pressure, IMMEDIATELY boils & spews.

Very poorly designed fuel system.

You can change the carb to a different brand/model/barrels/whatever every single day, and twice on Sundays just to be sure, and EVERY SINGLE ONE will struggle with that malfunction.

You can verify it easily enough: duplicate the situation somehow. Probably, worst case is, drive the car a long way on a hot day somewhere (like half an hour or more), stop and go inside the store, come back out in about 10 minutes, and it's hopeless. So, load up your assistant, perform the above sequence, come back out to the car, pop the hood, take off the air cleaner, and have your assistant attempt to start the car; and see how much fuel spews and boils and bubbles and goes EVERYWHERE. I'll bet you'll be surprised.

Leave the carb alone. It's just the victim. Fix the fuel system mistakes.

billybob6110

any recommendations on a return style regulator? i have a nitrous system thats why the regulator is dead headed.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Carter 6626, preferably with a helper pump in the tank similar to the G and '87 H systems. The helper pump will clear the lines if allowed to run for a few seconds before starting.

If you don't have the lobe or the bore drilled you can use an in-tank with the Mallory regulator.