View Poll Results: GM crate 383
iron vortec head, stock-ish TPI cam. 330/435 $4600
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383 crate engine poll
#1
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: L31 350
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383 crate engine poll
I found my mostly stock L98 has a crack in the block, and obviously needs a replacement. Although I have built engine(s) before, my time is at more of a premium than money, so I am leaning toward a crate. However, the more judicious I am with the crate leaves more money to other upgrades (anyone got a spare 12 bolt?).
Intended use: nice weather, semi-daily, cruising car, with occasional 1320's with a friend in the club clash bracket racing.
Intake: I plan to stick with TPI, due to emissions as well as maintain "the stock look" of the car. I already have a Vortec base, SLP runners and a spare plenum. This is an area I can take future free time and follow the path the SoCal guys have blazed with porting.
Others: Currently have an auto, but have all the parts for a T56 swap. Rear is a stock 3.23:1 10 bolt, 180k-ish miles, posi still has some bias, but makes noise under load.
I've read horror stories about Blueprint brand crates here on TGO, so will exclude them.
GM - the only gripe is the price. No posts about problems. The only 350 is the ZZ5 that comes in a "turn key" package and blows the price. Which leaves 383s. The short block is identical between choices...
1) HT383 #12499101 is $4600. Iron Vortec heads, 9.1:1, similar to stock TPI cam specs. 340 HP @ 4500 RPM, 435 ft lbs @ 4000 RPM
2) Upgrade #1, total cost ~ $5050. Add LT4 hot cam ($200), beehive springs (on the shelf), .025 headgaskets ($120) replace the .051 and raise compression to 9.6:1, as the head come off to get the valve guides machined for extra lift ($100?). 390 HP? 435-449 ft lbs?
3) ZZ383 deluxe #19301295 is $6500. Updates to the aluminum Fast Burn heads with beehive springs. 9.7:1, LT4 hot cam (or close enough). 450 HP @ 5400 RPM, 449 ft lbs @ 4500 RPM
Piecemeal upgrades end up costing more than buy once and be done, so if/when I pull the trigger, I will be "stuck" with it for a long time. Is $1900 worth the 110hp increase? Will the higher hp engine be any more temperamental that a "mild factory replacement"? #3 is right at the limit the SoCal guys talk about still being able to pass emissions, so it can't be TOO lumpy...
Which to do you recommend, and why?
Intended use: nice weather, semi-daily, cruising car, with occasional 1320's with a friend in the club clash bracket racing.
Intake: I plan to stick with TPI, due to emissions as well as maintain "the stock look" of the car. I already have a Vortec base, SLP runners and a spare plenum. This is an area I can take future free time and follow the path the SoCal guys have blazed with porting.
Others: Currently have an auto, but have all the parts for a T56 swap. Rear is a stock 3.23:1 10 bolt, 180k-ish miles, posi still has some bias, but makes noise under load.
I've read horror stories about Blueprint brand crates here on TGO, so will exclude them.
GM - the only gripe is the price. No posts about problems. The only 350 is the ZZ5 that comes in a "turn key" package and blows the price. Which leaves 383s. The short block is identical between choices...
1) HT383 #12499101 is $4600. Iron Vortec heads, 9.1:1, similar to stock TPI cam specs. 340 HP @ 4500 RPM, 435 ft lbs @ 4000 RPM
2) Upgrade #1, total cost ~ $5050. Add LT4 hot cam ($200), beehive springs (on the shelf), .025 headgaskets ($120) replace the .051 and raise compression to 9.6:1, as the head come off to get the valve guides machined for extra lift ($100?). 390 HP? 435-449 ft lbs?
3) ZZ383 deluxe #19301295 is $6500. Updates to the aluminum Fast Burn heads with beehive springs. 9.7:1, LT4 hot cam (or close enough). 450 HP @ 5400 RPM, 449 ft lbs @ 4500 RPM
Piecemeal upgrades end up costing more than buy once and be done, so if/when I pull the trigger, I will be "stuck" with it for a long time. Is $1900 worth the 110hp increase? Will the higher hp engine be any more temperamental that a "mild factory replacement"? #3 is right at the limit the SoCal guys talk about still being able to pass emissions, so it can't be TOO lumpy...
Which to do you recommend, and why?
#2
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Re: 383 crate engine poll
I went with the most expensive setup cause , well why not , ain't MY money we're talkin here , right ?
But seriously , as soon as you mention any kind of racing , it becomes a matter of buy the best you can afford if your going to be any kinds of competitive on the track .
Remember the old saying ;
Speed = Cubic inches X cubic dollars , squared
But seriously , as soon as you mention any kind of racing , it becomes a matter of buy the best you can afford if your going to be any kinds of competitive on the track .
Remember the old saying ;
Speed = Cubic inches X cubic dollars , squared
#3
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Car: 97 Z71 Extended Cab
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Re: 383 crate engine poll
I haven't heard anything recently,but,there have been alotta GM 383's with oil consumption problems.They may have it straightened out now.They are on,IIRC,the 3rd piston/ring design.I would do some research tho befor sinking that kinda money into 1.
#4
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Re: 383 crate engine poll
I just bought a l31r for $1970 shipped from jegs. Bought a lunati roller cam with ls6 springs and comp retainers.
I have under $2200 in the engine with a voided warranty. All new not rebuilt.
Great bang for the buck.
Edit: Sorry didn't see the "383"
I have under $2200 in the engine with a voided warranty. All new not rebuilt.
Great bang for the buck.
Edit: Sorry didn't see the "383"
Last edited by RamIt; 05-30-2014 at 12:21 AM.
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Car: 1989 Camaro Iroc Z
Engine: L98
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Re: 383 crate engine poll
Build a 383 yourself (read books and watch videos), buy $600 aluminum heads, and get a cam better than the hotcam (small for a 383) for under $3500. I built a 400+ horsepower 355 with a hotcam for under $2,000.
#6
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Car: '86 Bird, 96 ImpalaSS, 98 C1500XCab
Engine: LG4, LT1, L31
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Re: 383 crate engine poll
If youre sticking with TPI, don't waste your money on anything that peaks above 4500 rpm. No, you won't get that 110 hp increase with a TPI strangling it.
So, given your 3 options I'd pick the first.
But for cost effectiveness, the L31 crate motor recommended by RamIt is hard to beat.
So, given your 3 options I'd pick the first.
But for cost effectiveness, the L31 crate motor recommended by RamIt is hard to beat.
#7
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
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Re: 383 crate engine poll
By the way......
Better get to stepping to be able to hang with the Fr8Train!!!! That would be pretty cool dude you better get in a video
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#8
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: L31 350
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Axle/Gears: 4.10 D44
Re: 383 crate engine poll
@init4fun - bracket racing is a small part of my intended use. And bracket racing is more about consistency than max power.
@jokerZ71 - Hopefully you are right about being over oil consumption.
@RamIt - ZZ4 short block is just $2400. AFR heads, cam/valvetrain, sheet metal, and various parts will drive the price up. I am not categorically opposite to a 350. I am looking for good bang for the buck that is mostly drop it in and forget it.
@IrocRoadRacer - Been there, done that. I have built and rebuilt engines. I don't do it professionally, so I would have to find/rent/buy tools, spend twice as long as a pro. I get paid well to do my job well, and I am not opposed to pay an engine builder to build it better and faster than I can.
Also, I am not good at sniffing/finding/haggling a killer price for good parts. $600 for a pair of AL heads are, in Sofa's words, cheeeaaaappp junk and not something that would last 10 years and 100k miles without needing to be rebuilt.
@86LG4Bird (& RamIt) - You're right about the TPI vs RPM/HP. Any of the 383 options will be in the same torque ballpark - only 15 ftlbs difference.
- OK, I found the L31 #12530283 for $2100-$2200 from Jegs, Summit, and Pace. It doesn't mention, so I assume a cast crank, which is still sufficient for my power/rpm levels. For going through the effort of changing engines, I think I'd still apply the #2 cam/valveguide $500 upgrades to this crate, which brings the total up to only $2700. Most of the benefit at 1/2 price! I will definitely add this to my options mix.
@GhettoBird52 - "more power from build your own" - Probably true, but I am not after absolute max HP, otherwise we'd be talking LS, turbo, SC, etc. Same point as above, for going through all the cost and effort of a replacement engine, I do want more power than stock. And that has to balance against me not wanting to have to mess with a temperamental engine, such as adjusting mechanical lifters.
Better get to stepping to be able to hang with the Fr8Train!!!! - You lost me on this. Please elaborate.
@jokerZ71 - Hopefully you are right about being over oil consumption.
@RamIt - ZZ4 short block is just $2400. AFR heads, cam/valvetrain, sheet metal, and various parts will drive the price up. I am not categorically opposite to a 350. I am looking for good bang for the buck that is mostly drop it in and forget it.
@IrocRoadRacer - Been there, done that. I have built and rebuilt engines. I don't do it professionally, so I would have to find/rent/buy tools, spend twice as long as a pro. I get paid well to do my job well, and I am not opposed to pay an engine builder to build it better and faster than I can.
Also, I am not good at sniffing/finding/haggling a killer price for good parts. $600 for a pair of AL heads are, in Sofa's words, cheeeaaaappp junk and not something that would last 10 years and 100k miles without needing to be rebuilt.
@86LG4Bird (& RamIt) - You're right about the TPI vs RPM/HP. Any of the 383 options will be in the same torque ballpark - only 15 ftlbs difference.
- OK, I found the L31 #12530283 for $2100-$2200 from Jegs, Summit, and Pace. It doesn't mention, so I assume a cast crank, which is still sufficient for my power/rpm levels. For going through the effort of changing engines, I think I'd still apply the #2 cam/valveguide $500 upgrades to this crate, which brings the total up to only $2700. Most of the benefit at 1/2 price! I will definitely add this to my options mix.
@GhettoBird52 - "more power from build your own" - Probably true, but I am not after absolute max HP, otherwise we'd be talking LS, turbo, SC, etc. Same point as above, for going through all the cost and effort of a replacement engine, I do want more power than stock. And that has to balance against me not wanting to have to mess with a temperamental engine, such as adjusting mechanical lifters.
Better get to stepping to be able to hang with the Fr8Train!!!! - You lost me on this. Please elaborate.
Last edited by MoJoe; 05-30-2014 at 08:42 AM.
#9
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Re: 383 crate engine poll
The L31 does have a nodular iron cast crank.It's a hard deal to beat.The L31/Hot Cam combo,when using the rite supporting parts is an almost guaranteed 400 HP @ a good price.
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